Ok, here's *hopefully* an easy question.

The LWB (4.2, stock ignition) takes an unusually long time to start when relatively cold.

I thought it might have been the fuel filter, and even though it does start a bit easier, it still takes a while (maybe 5-7 seconds of cranking) to start. Previous to the fuel filter change it would hardly ever start on the first crank, usually the second.

I'm starting to think coil? I haven't done the cap/rotor/plugs/wires on this truck yet, so I think that basically it needs everything updated?

I have most of the parts except for the coil and the plug wires.

Before I start flailing in the dark (again), I thought I'd ask and see if anyone might have a guess (better than mine).

Thanks!

Michael

If it is not a fuel delivery problem, I see no reason why you couldn't replace each unit one at a time to isolate the problem. For example replace the cap and rotor and see if that helps. If not put old ones back on and replace the coil. If that doesn't help, throw old one on and replace plugs and wires. Obviously there may be a better order, but if you have some stuff on hand the replacing you are referring to in very easy to do. Just a thought. I had a similar problem (in fact exactly the same) and replaced everything except the coil. Ended up being the coil:mad:

Way

Way,

Thanks. I am glad I'm not the only one.

Usually when I do the 'remove and replace' game, I don't bother to put the old components back on if the problem doesn't get better though.

Typically when I do that I end up with lots of new parts, and eventually get it sorted out!

Michael

Leaky injector(s). test pressure after sitting.

Gas smell in oil?

Ron

GAS SMELL IN OIL!!!???!!!!

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

Don't even think it.

Michael

Why not?

Ron

Well, lesseeee....

Being that I'm a complete engine neophyte, I only know of one way that gas can get into the oil, and that's due to loose rings???

Doesn't that require an engine rebuild??? I'm not ready for that yet!

Michael

Start with the fuel system. Fuel pressure is critical on cold start up. The system has to run full rich to act like a "choke". The other thing to check is the coolant temp sender. The system can't tell that the engine is cold and will not richen the mixture so you get a slow start.

Old Scout is right.

The fuel pump also has a check valve to prevent back flow and keep pressure at key off. Get out the manual and check fuel pressure at the rail. Both key on, engine off, and key off, engine off. On key off you will be looking for bleed down. As little as 5lbs can cause huge problems. You may need to leave the gauge on the rail for several minutes/hours to confirm the problem. Also Oxygenated fuels and warm temperatures can cause hard starts as you are describing. Check your fuel for alcohol content. This causes premature vaporization in the fuel lines, not unlike vapor lock. What I mean is, definitely do not use high alcohol fuels from the lower cost stations, especially at altitude.

I definitely think fuel, since your fuel filter helped eleviate the problem. Don't panic, as these things usually are pretty simple to repair.

johnny,
:D

Leaky injector will cause fuel smell in the oil.

I think the consensus is fuel problem of some sort.

Ron

Michael,

How's your starting voltage? While cranking, if your voltage drops to 10-12 volts, then you need a bit more ummph. One way this can be improved is to run two heavy gauge wires (pos, neg) from the battery straight to the alternator. I ran 2 gauge welding cables. Sometimes the chasis ground on our vehicles can be flaky. Doing this can only help and may even make your starting quicker. It definitely improved my starting though.

Some auto shops/stereo stores are selling cig. lighter voltmeter that's nifty for this sort of thing. I bought one from JC Whitnety but it's a bit buliker than the ones I've been noticing around lately.

Good luck.

Ali