Unfortunately, I need to make my zuk buggy perform better on the street. It was built to be off-road primarly only but things have changed. The realestate market sucks here in AZ and I cannot sell my home (was hoping to move into a bigger home with an RV gate). The side of my home is not big enough for a trailer. So, I'm gonna have to drive it to the trails. It is street legal with headlights, tail lights, blinkers, cat, etc...

I'm having to sell my brand new TSL/SX tires so I can get radials. That's the first step. Second, well, that's where I need ideas. It's a 4 link rear with YJ reverse shackle leafs up front. No sway bar, no anitrock, nothing. It needs to be more stable.

I was thinking of adding a swaybar to the front or back, maybe even both. Some people have said to get a currie anitrock but some have said that just doesn't do good enough job for the streets. I did see that ORO dual rate swaybar setup and that might be an idea. Some have even said limit straps on the sides.

Have any of you had a super flexy zuk buggy that you had to make perform better on the roads and what did you do? Thanks for the opinions. Here's a few pics, maybe it might help you see something that would work well or even something that you might say will definately not work.

http://www.nikegames.net/zona/Misc/Zuk/JZ02.jpg

http://www.nikegames.net/zona/Misc/Zuk/JZ07.jpg

http://www.nikegames.net/zona/Misc/Zuk/JZ09.jpg

http://www.nikegames.net/zona/Misc/Zuk/jeffzuk01.jpg

http://www.nikegames.net/zona/Misc/Zuk/jeffzuk02.jpg

http://www.nikegames.net/zona/Misc/Zuk/jeffzuk03.jpg

Put an Anti-Rock bar on the rear and it will make the Biggest difference. May even solve the issues. Also just my opinion I dont care for that much uptravel in the shock, you may want to lower them...

Put an Anti-Rock bar on the rear and it will make the Biggest difference. May even solve the issues. Also just my opinion I dont care for that much uptravel in the shock, you may want to lower them...

yep, lower the rear and add oil to get it to sit harder on the "spring" at ride height. that will help stability a ton maybe even a suck down winch on the rear to keep the travel under control?

on a hard packed dirt road I loose traction before the body roll gets to a scary point

how many miles to the trails? I dont think you'll have too much trouble with the sx's I would drive mine on the road 20-30 miles at a time.

Bias plys are fine for the street. I drive mine to and from the trail on my LTB's.

ya, Anti-Rock bar on the rear and keep your sx's. i use to drive my DD with tsl's 70 miles a day over 2 mountains a day and no problems. also i dont know how strict the cops are in your area but maybe some removable mudflaps too:)

The TSL/SX tires actually did pretty decent on the street but I just thought that being they were bias that they would be be slicks in no time at all. I'm actually leaning towards the idea of doing the Currie in the rear and just some basic swaybar with disconnects in the front. I think that might be enough. It's not like this fella is gonna be flying down the highway with 6 to 1 Tcase gears and 5:13's in the diffs. I have heard a few souls mention that having the Radials would help with street speed though, they would be more rigid and have less bounce to them. This kina sucks, doing the Currie and the front swaybar is gonna cost me as much as a trailer would............:eek:

I wouldn't sell your swampers.They'll be fine on the street as long as you are not going on the highway for really long distances.They will be real fun in the morning when the weather finally turns cold.

I wouldn't sell your swampers.They'll be fine on the street as long as you are not going on the highway for really long distances.They will be real fun in the morning when the weather finally turns cold.


Good to hear. It would save me money and headache just to keep them. And I don't plan to hit the highway anytime soon. Plenty of awesome wheeling just 20 miles from my house. Actually, there's about 4 totally different areas all very close. Florence Junction is just right around the corner.

I have thought about getting a trailer anyway and just renting an RV space but I was floored with how much it costs to rent a secured parking spot, like $75 a month. Fuc that. I think when I want to go hit some trails far away, I'll just pay the $50 rental fee for a uhaul tandem axle car hualer. I took some measurements of one the other day and I fit by 1". That actually had me thinking of trying to find one of those cheap somewhere. The other idea I had is this.

The side of my house has enough room to put an 8 foot gate but there are utility boxes about 20 feet in front of the gate. Working a trailer around all that and trying to fit it through an 8 foot area just doesn't see possible. A 16 foot trailer would fit in my garage so I was thinking I could just park the trailer in the garage and then drive the zuk through the side gate. Hmmmm.

Good looking Zuk by the way! If your trying to stay inexpensive, just find a couple of swaybars that fit the width from the junk yard, then just do quick disconnects both front and rear. For now anyway. If its stable off-road enough for you why spend the money on the anti-rock?

Other idea is could you get the trailer into that space easily if you weren't using a truck? Meaning could you use a riding lawnmower, atv or a two wheel dolly to manuever it in?

And I daily drove my zuk on bias swamper tsl's for several years. Just have to pay attention to the air pressure.

You could always just flat tow it to the trails,thats what I do.then rent a trailer when you want to go far.

Put an Anti-Rock bar on the rear and it will make the Biggest difference. May even solve the issues. Also just my opinion I dont care for that much uptravel in the shock, you may want to lower them...

yep, lower the rear and add oil to get it to sit harder on the "spring" at ride height. that will help stability a ton maybe even a suck down winch on the rear to keep the travel under control?

on a hard packed dirt road I loose traction before the body roll gets to a scary point

how many miles to the trails? I dont think you'll have too much trouble with the sx's I would drive mine on the road 20-30 miles at a time.

Listen to these guys they know and you can get a Currie anti rock bar from Rockrat. I also don't like that much uptravel in the shock can you lower it? Does your rig feel floppy, if so add some oil.

Just one more thing to think about but you might want to look into disk brakes for the rear. Rearending people isn't fun and the people who produce fake insurance claims look for vehicles that don't look like they can stop well.

Put an Anti-Rock bar on the rear and it will make the Biggest difference. May even solve the issues. Also just my opinion I dont care for that much uptravel in the shock, you may want to lower them...

Sorry guys! But but in my opinion anti-rocks suck. They limit overall travel while wheeling. And they barely do anything on road. My dad has one he would probably get rid of because you cant tell any difference whether it is hooked up or not while driving in town. While it limits total articulation while offroad.

Good looking Zuk by the way! If your trying to stay inexpensive, just find a couple of swaybars that fit the width from the junk yard, then just do quick disconnects both front and rear. For now anyway. If its stable off-road enough for you why spend the money on the anti-rock?

I like catzuks idea better. Get some off of a jeep or something narrow and use disconects. In my opinion if you are going to spend time with anti-sway bars they may as well actually eliminate body roll. Its easy to fab up your own disconects and pretty cheap to buy them.

Just one more thing to think about but you might want to look into disk brakes for the rear. Rearending people isn't fun and the people who produce fake insurance claims look for vehicles that don't look like they can stop well.

While I did not do a disc brake conversion on the rear, I did have the entire brakes and wheel assembly completely rebuilt with new parts, front and rear. I know the importance of having good brakes. No way was I going to trust the brakes on a mid 70's axle.............hahaha.

I do have the option to do alot of custom stuff with my rear shocks. It may be hard to see but the top bracket on the rear has 5 different mounting positions (verticle) and plus like you guys said, I can add oil and what not. On the second to last pic, you can see the lower two mounting holes on the rear showing. I think I have it mounted in the middle. Nope - looking at the 1st pic you can see the upper mounts showing and you can see the shock mounted there.

Just one more thing to think about but you might want to look into disk brakes for the rear.

the rear is only about 30% of the vehicles braking force, even less when the rear is so light as in the case of this buggy. a properly sized master and booster is more important than rear disks when your talking about stopping power.



Sorry guys! But but in my opinion anti-rocks suck. They limit overall travel while wheeling. And they barely do anything on road. My dad has one he would probably get rid of because you cant tell any difference whether it is hooked up or not while driving in town. While it limits total articulation while offroad.


my opinion is that your idea of what an anti rock sway bar is for sucks.

post a picture of your dads setup, I'd be interested to see why you think it sucks.

my opinion is that your idea of what an anti rock sway bar is for sucks.

post a picture of your dads setup, I'd be interested to see why you think it sucks.

My opinion sucks? I have no red star so I cant post pictures on the forum. Got an email adress? PM me and I will get you those pictures.

The sway bar that was supposedly "the only way to go". Sucks because the jeep has 7 inches of up travel before the tire hits the body. At 10 mph a 90 degree turn will put the body of the jeep into the fender like its going to roll over. And I dont mean a 90 degree turn to turn around or whip the wheel type of turn. I mean a right or left hand turn from one street to another while driving. Or on curvy roads like going up ice house road to the rubicon was a real pleasure. Same as going east out of george town on that mountain road. Yes his jeep is coiled and linked f/r. Thats why it needed the anti sway bar in the first place. It just doesnt make any difference on the pavement and stops the axle from drooping all the way at full articulation.

My opinion sucks? I have no red star so I cant post pictures on the forum. Got an email adress? PM me and I will get you those pictures.


you dont need a red star to post pictures, you just have to be resourceful.

email them to: tsvind at gmail dot com

you dont need a red star to post pictures, you just have to be resourceful.

email them to: tsvind at gmail dot com

I will have to take pics up close of the actuall antirock in the jeep. All I have now are wheeling pics that you cant really tell how its set up. Soon as I can get them I will send them.

So tell me how to post pics w/out the red star. I dont mind being resaourcefull but dont know where to start. Hook it up cuz I dont plan on buying the star.

you dont need a red star to post pictures, you just have to be resourceful.

email them to: tsvind at gmail dot com

Pictures are in your email inbox. Post em up if you want.:D

Another thought is the reverse shackel is causing steering issues. In order to fix it change them to standard ones or install a Pan Hard Bar... I know when I had revese shakles, You turn the wheel while sitting still and the Zuk actually moves side to side before the tires moved.. You may be able to fabricate a panhard bar that has a removable pin for better articulation.
Arizona Is great ,you can Drive a buggy on the highway LOL