: New Frame, What Size?
ChiScouter 08-23-2007, 09:36 AM Ive got this rack of steel staring me every day and it will go bye bye soon. There is enough 2x6x1/4" to do a SII frame My old frame flexed enough when pulling a trailer that I couldn't close my fiberglass SSII doors. I don't have the exact numbers in front of me, but a 2x6x1/4 frame would weigh about 3x's the stock 4x3x1/8. Approx 4lbs per ft vs 12lbs
Being as I have a new plasma cutter I am looking to play with as well as steel cutting carbide tooth blades that work in a circular saw, cutting down the tube to 2x4 or 2x5 and welding a piece of flat stock on the resulting U channel would not be unthinkable or unmanagable.
Strength is not the only issue, I want to change the shape of my frame to be able to accomidate longer front leafs sitting relatively flat without moving them forward and with no or minimal fang. I wanted to include a wooden template of the new proposed frame shape included in the thread, but I haven't had time to mock it up
If I was to buy the stuff I would lean towards 2x4x3/16, or 2x5x3/16, but beggars can't be choosers
What size would you guys use, and why?
http://IMG_4966.JPGhttp://IMG_4967.JPG
larboc@hotmail.com 08-23-2007, 10:29 AM most of my frame has at least 1 side laminated with minimum 3/16" steel channel with one side sawzalled to fit. then the frame sleeve from D&C that the link mounts are on is 1/4".
I have been worrying about weight, but makeing the entire frame from 1/4" 4X3 seems a bit ANGRY to me.
So you are talking about a frame thats gonna weigh a little over 300lbs?
Seems managable, go for it. It's the IH way.
Bo185 08-23-2007, 10:36 AM Bigger frame chi and you need a diesel! LOL... Sell me the LS1! :D
I would think 3/16 would work.
I thought about doing the same thing with mine but I don't have anyway of jiging it up to keep the new frame straight.
By post pictures and measurements! Please! :smokin:
Mechanos 08-23-2007, 11:52 AM I'd use Tinker Toys.... super easy to re-configure on the fly!!! :flipoff2:
Since your stock is hell-for-stout-overkill, you could always swish-cheese the hell out of the 2x6 frame rails and still maintain adequate strength.
Urban Wheeler 08-23-2007, 12:39 PM What if you cut two opposing corners so you had 2x6 angle and plate the frame? It would be easier than my other thought, chop it down to 2x4, then cut one side + 1/2 inch off and reweld to a 3x4.
Maybe you could sell or trade for some 2x4 mat'l?
I don't see how you can run longer front springs without flat without fangs or cutting into the body. You could look here (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=607305) for some ideas, some have frenched one end of the spring into the frame and plated it. With 2x6 I you'd probably have to get the spring end near the top of the frame, and the goofy shit that you'd have to do to do that....
Then again, since you are building a frame from scratch, you could narrow the frame and outboard the springs. I suppose.
Snoopy 08-23-2007, 12:39 PM 2x4 is plenty strong ~ in fact, I'd say just about everything you've mentioned is stronger stand stock by a long shot (if you count that the factory couldn't weld :shaking:) Go with the lightest.
Jerry Blair 08-23-2007, 12:49 PM What if you just cut the welded side out of the 2x6 stock?
Essentially end up with a 1/4" 2x6 C-channel. That should reduce the weight significantly.
misterfubar 08-24-2007, 10:47 AM I'd use Tinker Toys.... super easy to re-configure on the fly!!! :flipoff2:
I'd use Legos, the tolerances are much tighter. :flipoff2:
472Scout 08-25-2007, 07:32 PM Does your stock frame need replaced or do you just want to eliminate the flex. A properly triangulated cage tied into the factory frame will cut the flex to almost nothing. As far as the 2x6x1/4 I wouldn't waste my time. Sell it and buy what you really want.
ChiScouter 08-25-2007, 08:08 PM I started a thread several months back showing me slicing up a pretty dam pristine SII frame that I had planned on using. Part of my plan was tying the cage to it in many places to form a truss from front to back. It would have been complicated, time consuming, and heavy, but pretty dam stout. As I looked into newer wider flatter front springs they all turned out to be longer than SII springs. To keep ride height low I needed to move the springs forward, but I didn't really want to extend the frame too far forward past the body. The other alternative would be fangs and a higher ride height, also not really acceptable. I believe by more closely following the scouts body lines underneath I will be able to use longer flatter wrangler or waggy springs SOA with minimal fangs and a horizontal spring. The cage will not be so complicated, and the spring problem will be greatly improved if not solved. I had planned on mocking up the new shape in plywood and comparing it to my bare SII frame for purposes of this discussion, but 7 day work weeks have prevented that.
On a more practical note I have a line on some 2x4x.188 in another department that I am trying to mooch:grinpimp:
troutbum 08-25-2007, 08:17 PM The only time I have seen probs with the stock frame is when you ram the front shackle hard enough to rip off the fixed leaf mount, anyone else breaking these frames? Some of this shit seems like overkill. I added some cross members and tied the cage in and frame flex is not a problem I wouldn't want the extra weight.
larboc@hotmail.com 08-25-2007, 08:35 PM That leaf mount is supposed to break off.
There is only one big problem with the stock frame imho, and that is the crappy weld.
Which is why I dumped a box of fleetweld at the problem. That took alot of welding.
Then it looks like I am going to end up plateing the entire frame as well on one side at least.
reuben 08-25-2007, 09:31 PM I built a frame out of 2x4 1/4 wall, it was way heavier then it needed to be. In fact I just cut it up a week ago and took it to the dump.
Urban Wheeler 08-26-2007, 09:18 AM The only time I have seen probs with the stock frame is when you ram the front shackle hard enough to rip off the fixed leaf mount, anyone else breaking these frames? Some of this shit seems like overkill. I added some cross members and tied the cage in and frame flex is not a problem I wouldn't want the extra weight.
I've not broken one, but I had mine start to come apart (bad weld at the seam) at the rear shackle mount (rear axle)
uglyscout 08-26-2007, 04:59 PM I've not broken one, but I had mine start to come apart (bad weld at the seam) at the rear shackle mount (rear axle)
Ditto -- My frame has separated at the rear shackle hangers --- at the front fixed hangers - at the front shackle hangers --- at the steering box... And it cracked at the steering box.
But it is still mainly in one piece :D
472Scout 08-28-2007, 03:01 AM I started a thread several months back showing me slicing up a pretty dam pristine SII frame that I had planned on using. Part of my plan was tying the cage to it in many places to form a truss from front to back. It would have been complicated, time consuming, and heavy, but pretty dam stout. As I looked into newer wider flatter front springs they all turned out to be longer than SII springs. To keep ride height low I needed to move the springs forward, but I didn't really want to extend the frame too far forward past the body. The other alternative would be fangs and a higher ride height, also not really acceptable. I believe by more closely following the scouts body lines underneath I will be able to use longer flatter wrangler or waggy springs SOA with minimal fangs and a horizontal spring. The cage will not be so complicated, and the spring problem will be greatly improved if not solved. I had planned on mocking up the new shape in plywood and comparing it to my bare SII frame for purposes of this discussion, but 7 day work weeks have prevented that.
On a more practical note I have a line on some 2x4x.188 in another department that I am trying to mooch:grinpimp:
A 6-8 point cage tied into a mildly reinforced frame should be plenty rigid especially with that little LS1. It's not like you're running a Cad motor or anything. :flipoff2:
Seriously, I see where you're going with the custom reshaped frame. At one time I was looking at the possibility of outboarding 56" springs to keep them level but tire clearance would be a hassle. With a custom frame just make the front narrower so you can outboard the springs and you won't have to get all fancy with the shape.
jdeit 08-28-2007, 11:23 AM The only time I have seen probs with the stock frame is when you ram the front shackle hard enough to rip off the fixed leaf mount, anyone else breaking these frames? Some of this shit seems like overkill. I added some cross members and tied the cage in and frame flex is not a problem I wouldn't want the extra weight.
That looks like what happened to mine before i bought it. It looks like some did a swell job putting it back on.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/547354/fullsize/stp60305.jpg
I am in the process of using Chevy 4 inch lift springs on mine with a reverse shackle. This is how I would like my spring placement but I wont be able to tell until I put some temporary mounts on the fron with some weight.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/547359/fullsize/stp60315.jpg
troutbum 08-28-2007, 11:35 AM That leaf mount is supposed to break off.
don't drink the koolaid, that is what the IH purists tell themselves to avoid the certainty of a design flaw.
Then it looks like I am going to end up plateing the entire frame as well on one side at least.
Between the plating and the D&C section I bet that is going to be one heavy pig...
When I had a steering gear I beefed up that section, otherwise I think xmems and bracing and the OEM frames are pretty solid.
larboc@hotmail.com 08-28-2007, 01:45 PM Yes it will be heavy. I figure frame strength is weight well spent with a BBF and a warn M12000 up front.
This thing has to jump remember? looking at about 14lbs per HP right now.
ChiScouter 08-29-2007, 06:19 PM That rack of steel in the pics, It got cut up and went away today, 3 tons of it:eek: I grabbed some stuff, maybe 600 lbs worth. Not enough to do anything big, but I have enough of that 2x6 to do a 20 ft trailer. Dam that 2x6 is heavy. Can't think of anything else it would be useful for.
Im hoping to get the 2x4x3/16 from the FX guys , but they were pretty busy today http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=437_1188417848 Ill know in another week or so.
Bo185 08-30-2007, 09:12 AM Im hoping to get the 2x4x3/16 from the FX guys , but they were pretty busy today http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=437_1188417848 Ill know in another week or so.
Busy blowing shit up! Lol... That was great!
Need pictures and weights of the new frame when done!
ChiScouter 08-30-2007, 06:18 PM Everyone is real pleased with that explosion, I guess youtube has other vids of some of the stunts and special effects on the show. I saw one today of a 18 wheeler being flipped up in the air and landing on its roof. I guess that is the first time that has been done.
According to my steel catalog
3x4x.125 is 5.61 lbs/ft
2x4x.188 is 6.87
2x4x.250 is 8.81
Bo or any of the other guys with a lsx between the framerails I would really like to see some pics to help me visualize how it would look with a narrower frame, or sitting deeper in the frame
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