I basicly finished my highsteer on my bronco.
Clearence looks pretty good considering I used the leftover tube from my custom radius arms. 1 1/2" sch. 80 or 90 I forget.:zzz:
ended up using
1 1/2" pipe
avalanche arms
3/4"x5/8" xm series heims from QA1
not my spidertrax weld in bungs
:mad:
f350 tierod end and sleeve:D perfect fit
and hopefully the miss align. spacers and 5/8 washers I lost.
highsteer (http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/scottsbent70/lst?.dir=/70%27+bronco/highsteer&.src=ph&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/)

Hey, what steering box did you use?

And the welds look sweet:flipoff2:


Eric

looks good but have you tested it it looks as if the trac bar will hit the drag link.... the clearance is mighty close.

good job:D

I didn't do the steering conversion, but according to the previous owner he used a f250 box. Those are the prettiest welds you've seen huh:flipoff2:

As far as the trackbar hitting the draglink I might squeak by without any problems. I cycled the suspension by jumping up and down on the bumper and it doesn't hit. But if it does hit in real flex I still have some adjustment fore and aft. If that doesn't work I can use some normal sized tubing.

Hey B70, that looks sweet. I won't comment on the welds.

Do you think you'll have a problem with bump steer? If so or not, why? I've heard that for some reason having the bends in the track bar solves the problem but I don't understand why.

How much did the arms set you back and the machine work on the knuckles?

-Jack

I am sure I'll have bump steer, just don't know how bad. track bar is from my zj and it was fine on that, but then again the trackbar and drag. were parallel.
the arms were $190 for the pair and no machine work since this is a kingpin rc60. Flattop knuckle are standard, unlike most balljoint 44's and 60's.

Bends in a panhard bar are just for clearance around the oil pan or diff. Draw a straight line from one end to the other and that is the effective angle of the panhard. If you add a drop bracket on the frame and a riser on the axle you'll greatly reduce bumpsteer because you've got a lot of angle there. If you drive it and it doesn't bother you then don't mess with it

Originally posted by broncorob
Bends in a panhard bar are just for clearance around the oil pan or diff. Draw a straight line from one end to the other and that is the effective angle of the panhard. If you add a drop bracket on the frame and a riser on the axle you'll greatly reduce bumpsteer because you've got a lot of angle there. If you drive it and it doesn't bother you then don't mess with it

it looks like it will have bad bumpsteer with the track bar mount at the axel so low? Trail rig, looks great, DD, Id look into fabing up a new bracket.

It will be a dd till my jeep is fixed.
I guess I will try it first and see how bad its going to be. If I need to raise it that will be no problem and take a few min. to do, just to occupied with other parts for now.

2 things to fix the bumpsteer.
angle AND length would have to match.
with that setup there is no way to get the panhard rod to be the same length as your draglink so you will be living with some bumpsteer no matter what you do.
just make it liveable.

if you move the draglink axle attachment into the tierod to shorten it to match the panhard length you could make a dent in bumpsteer but you have to decide what works best for you