I just got my rig all wired ready for paint ( 2yr project) I thought I'd take it for run arounded the block and found that my clutch is messed up!
I step all the way down on the clutch peddel and it will not release the clutch, and its adjusted the fork so the throwout bearing riding on the clutch (too close I know) just tring everthing! and will not go in to gear.
I used the AA conversion kit.
hydraulic clutch seems to be working good.
its like the piston doesn't has enough swing, but I was told it does.
I have a reg. chevy though out bearing
and a Center force clutch.
and the arm that came in the kit.
I did have to grind down the lobes a little on the fork to fit into the grove on the though out bearing.

Do you put the piston in the inboard hole closer to ENG. or the outboard hole.


Has anyone else had this problem!
:confused:

YES!!! I had problems with my first clutch setup on my V8 and NV4500 setup.

do you have the centerforce clutch designed for a hydraulic clutch? I had a RAM clutch for a chevrolet(not the L/C conversion) and the chevythrowout bearing and it was all F'ed up. I had to buy the Centerforce clutch made for short throw hydraulic slave cylinders. Also you will need the toyota T/o bearing from there kit. check and make sure the clutch you got was the right one for the land cruiser SHORT throw- throwout bearing. I thought I'd save some money and I learned the hard$$$ way. Just get all the shit from AA, and make sure they set you up with the right stuff.

Hal,

I have a 350-NV4500 combo, is that what you have? AA provides a Toyota TO bearing and a chevy fork to Toy bearing adapter in their bearing kit. This has the effect of moving the TO bearing farther into the clutch. Maybe the Chevy TO bearing is too short. I also used the first hole in the clutch arm.

As far as I can tell, the only difference between the clutch plate you get from AA and the one you get from Centerforce is the diameter of the counterweights ring. To clear the Toyota TO bearing, the counterweights were moved away from the center.

I would do what Brett suggests: use all AA parts and avoid all the headache and $$ waste

PS: Cruiserbrett, thanks for the help on the trans-transfer case placement. I was able to raise the transfer case as much as you did and get it out of harms way :beer: Did you end up with a 15.5" rear driveline too?

Dave

The kit I got came with a Thoughout bearing but it was to big (long)
When i used that bearing... tighten down the bell housing on to the trany, the trany forced the bearing into the cluch. there was no room for the thought out bearing to move. I then called AA and they said OH! sorry its just a standed chev bearing you can get at NAPA, so I did. thats that story ...NEXT

I think I got the clutch problem fixed. PLEASE don't say DUH! but...
I was doing all the ajustments at the bell housing and piston.
I found that there is a adjustment at the cluth pedel. I adjusted it all the way out and grounded down the back of the clutch pedel arm 3/16 or so, so I had more push room. that gave me 1 1/8 " movement at the piston. and it seems to be working good. I think when I had my clutch plate ground down, NAPA left it a little to thick. I didn't check the thinkness (my bad) :rolleyes:
Thanks I hope this post helps others :beer: