: Cage design suggestions


BadDog
06-13-2002, 10:43 PM
I'm working on plans for my very first cage. I've got a K30 GM frame cut down to 112" with very little over hang. The body is cut away to leave just the firewall/cowl, windshield, and part of the floor. Here (http://www.members.cox.net/russhuffman/shorty/shorty.html) is what I’ve got so far along with a description of my thought process. Only real difference since I wrote that is it now has a rear floor made from the cut down floor of the original bed mounted (or rather soon to be) on rubber isolators (body mounts). I've also got a JD2 Mod3 with 1.75" die and a stack of 1.75x.120 HREW (please, no DOM/Pipe/etc. BS).

Yes, I have spent a great deal of time searching and reading (here and elsewhere) and there have been posts similar to this before. There is allot of good info, but I’m looking for specifics. I’ve also read bending 101, too bad it doesn’t cover multi-plane bends…

So, what I'm looking for are pics, ideas and info on family type cages that I can use to design my buggy body/cage. Obviously I need to keep it relatively simple to match my skills (or lack there of) but I want a good design that will work. Looks are secondary. My 15 year old son will be with me much of the time and he likes to ride the tougher obstacles so it's got to be good. I’m also reasonably confident in my welding skills (years working on a frame machine rebuilding totaled vehicles that never broke) and I know about triangulation and gussets. But, on cage design, I'm still at the point of debating a-frame hoop vs. halo vs. "L" (ease/strength/looks) so any help would be appreciated.

So, what do you like and why? What have you seen where people had stuff that looked good but they missed an important point. As I said, my goals (in order) are:
(1) Strong front and back seat support on a full size Blazer/Bronco size rig.
(2) Easy enough that a bending newbie can do the work.
(3) It would be good if it looked nice, but not absolutely mandatory.

BTW, here is a side pic so maybe some of you Photoshop wizards can help with designs.
http://www.members.cox.net/russhuffman/junk/bnwside2.jpg

bgreen
06-13-2002, 11:15 PM
Im no design expert, but here is a place to start.

BadDog
06-13-2002, 11:23 PM
Thanks, that's pretty close to what I've been kicking around. Just double the b-pillar, pull the a-pillar back a bit (behind the windshield frame), and remove the front ramp bar/bumper. I'm also thinking I'll run the front fender bars only about 1/3 of the way over the tires, then cut in to roughly the inside edge of the tire before continuing to the core support loop. BTW, that orange bar is already there on the sub frame. I guess that's why you made it orange?

So, what do you think about the different a-pillar designs? Which do you like better, and which do you think would be easier to get right? I’m thinking maybe a halo type would be good since it could be made to provide a sort of “brow” over the windshield frame for protection…

bgreen
06-13-2002, 11:35 PM
Originally posted by BadDog
Thanks, that's pretty close to what I've been kicking around. Just double the b-pillar, pull the a-pillar back a bit (behind the windshield frame), and remove the front ramp bar/bumper. I'm also thinking I'll run the front fender bars only about 1/3 of the way over the tires, then cut in to roughly the inside edge of the tire before continuing to the core support loop. BTW, that orange bar is already there on the sub frame. I guess that's why you made it orange?

So, what do you think about the different a-pillar designs? Which do you like better, and which do you think would be easier to get right? I’m thinking maybe a halo type would be good since it could be made to provide a sort of “brow” over the windshield frame for protection…

If you move the a piller to behind the windshield it will offer less protection for the glass, or are you even going to use glass? I like the a pillar to be as far forward just for looks. (boxy rigs with short hoods look better)

Ya, the orange bar is what you had already. I saw it in one of your other posts. The link at the top of this thread did not work for me BTW.

Im not sure I understand what you mean for I'll run the front fender bars only about 1/3 of the way over the tires, then cut in to roughly the inside edge of the tire before continuing to the core support loop

bgreen
06-13-2002, 11:43 PM
I threw in a 4link for ya, while I was at it :p

BadDog
06-13-2002, 11:48 PM
Sorry, I fixed the link. It should work now.

As for the fender bar. Imagine that lower green line of yours (over the front tire) being parallel to the outside of the tire and extending from the back about 1/3 of the way over the tire. Then it turns toward the center and joins with a bar that goes from the cowl to the core support hoop (angles in sharply going to the radiator hoop, maybe even starting on the cowl just outside the brake booster). If you put a piece of sheet inside the "fender bar" it would protect you from debris but still let you see stuff right in front of the tire. Obviously I would have to make sure there is room for suspension movement.

I'm also thinking for the back it would look sort of like the outline of the jeep tubs where the rear wheel wells are cut straight out the back (H8Monday for example).

bgreen
06-14-2002, 12:04 AM
Im still not getting ya on the fender but I got to go now. last one for today...