I have been looking around for a TPI setup, but I never know if they are coming with everything included.

What are all the parts in a TPI setup?? Does anyone have a list of the parts? Things likes hoses, canister, chips...Stuff like that.

I did a search but couldn't find too much spcific info on the related parts of a TPI, only the accesories and setup.

I already have a 350, so picking up a complete motor is not needed.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

You asked for it!!!

So you want to install a TPI in your Jeep ??? All I can say is welcome to the party.. okay few things you need to know about the different systems.

There are 2 basic types of TPI in the 85-92 models, the Mass air flow system and the speed density system. Basically the difference is one sensor. On the Mass Air there is a large sensor mounted on the air intake which measures the amount of air being taken in and from there the ECM computes fuel needs and what not. The speed Density does not use the mass air sensor it uses a MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) which basically measures the intake vacuum in relation to throttle posistion and uses a table to determine how much fuel to add. Make sense? Didn't think so.... due to space limitations in the CJ and the fact that you are not going to HIGHLY modify this engine the Speed Density is the ideal choice and the fact that the Mass Air sensor is over 200 bucks and the MAP is 40.

Okay here is the run down of the sensors you will need to make sure you have, Okay one is a Oxygen Sensor, if you are running headers you need to be able to mount the sensor within 1.5 feet of the heads if this is not possible you will need to get a 3 wire, heated, Oxygen sensor. It is best to get a vehicle speed sensor, it helps the ECM calculate things better, the one www.jimsperformance.com sells will screw right into the D20 or D300 case. Okay next is the Knock sensor, Jims sells two kinds one with a 3/8 bolt thread you can screw into the back of your head or a stock one the screws into the water drain plug on the bottom center of each side of the block.

The next sensors will be installed on the TPI unit itself, a IAC Motor, this mounts below the throttle body, a throttle posistion sensor mounts on the right side of the throttle body, a coolent temp sensor which mounts on lower intake plenum, the MAT sensor Manifold air temp sensor which screws into the bottom of the upper plenum, and a EGR temp sensor which screws into the side of the EGR valve, I recommend getting rid of the EGR.

You also need 8 injectors and an ECM, if you go with the speed density you will need a later model 90-92 ECM with the part number #1227730 . You will need a harness, Jims can make your harness for you and also custom burn your ECM PROM to meet you engine specs, gearing and tire size.

You will also need an electric fuel pump for a TPI unit capable of at least 45 psi, you need a 3/8" supply line and a 5/16 min return fuel line.

The ECM can be mounted behind your glove box, it can be programmed to turn on electric fans at a given temp, you just need to tell him what temps.

I recommend getting a good Mallory fuel pump, I have had heating problems with the inline pump, OR mount the pump in the tank, I may have to do that also.

I would go to EBAY and search for TPI and find the TPI swappers guide book, if you get the name Summitracing can get it for you and you don't need to mess with the ebay stuff. You will also need an Air filter, K&N makes a nice filter for the unit and Jims sells it..

This is the basic rundown of the system, if I can be of any other help just let me know. By the way I am not connected to Jims in any way they just had the best price around and the harness was good quailty and customer service was great.

Let me know if I can be any other help, this swap about kicked my butt because nobody really knew anything about it and those that did were tight lipped.. :D

Enjoy !

Mark

P.S. I am cosidering a ECM swap to a programmable unit and my current harness, ECM and Speed Sensor will be for sale soon if I make the swap..


EDIT !!! Looks like I will need larger injectors to feed my hungry mill so my set of Accel 24 lb injectors with less than 500 miles on them will be sold also. There is nothing wrong with them but 450+ hp eats ALOT of fuel, along with the MAP, air & coolant temp and O2 sensor, I may be able to fix you right up with the electrical side of the swap... :p

I did exactly this, converted an 88 Chevy 350 from TBI to carb to TPI. Here's my list w/ prices:

Parts List:
My $300 TPI swap turned expensive in a hurry! Over $1500 so far, including actual TPI.
1985-86 350 TPI Camaro:
Upper Alternator Bracket ($25)
Longer Alternator Belt ($15)

1987(?) 350 TPI Camaro: ($300 for almost everything from junkyard)
All aluminum
Most sensors (oil pressure ($30), coolant temp sensor, IACV, O2, TPS)
EGR Valve
Valve Covers
Exhaust manifolds
Coil - discarded in favor of existing MSD brick & coil

1988 Chevy Caprice Motor (Existing)
AIR Pump ($60)
AIR Pump Pulley ($15?)

1991 305 TPI Camaro:
ECM ($100 for this and next 2 from junkyard)
Distributor
MAP Sensor
Charcoal Cannister ($40 for this and diverter valve - same junkyard)
Diverter Valve
EGR Solenoid ($30)
Knock Sensor ($30)

Misc:
Water Neck ($55) - Street& Performance
PROM ($75), Harness ($400), Fuel Pump ($100)-Fuel Injection Specialties

Books:
Jags That Run (horrible - $20)
Chevy TPI Fuel Injection Swappers Guide (Muchbetter - $20)
Camaro Chiltons (OK - $?)

Still need:
Detent Cable for TH350/TPI ($58)
Throttle Cable ($40)
Exhaust Change ($145)
VSS Sensor ($65)
VSS Wiring Hookup (?)



Bryan

Originally posted by Oxjockey
I did exactly this, converted an 88 Chevy 350 from TBI to carb to TPI. Here's my list w/ prices:


Don't suppose you'd let get TBI setup go for cheap, would you?

Sorry, Dude, it's long gone. Had I known then what I know now, I would have just kept it in the first place. :D

Thats a ton of info. Thanks, that should help a bit. I know how the system works, but didn't know all the little crap that isn't obvious.

Send me an email with the price on all that stuff. I'm gonna be running around 400hp when this motor is done.

I am curious whether I should just stick with the carb for now. Maybe pick up the TPI stuff as I go. I'm not going to be doing any major crawling or extreme angles, do I shouldn't have to worry about the carb flooding. But since I am in Michigan, the easier starting in teh crack of winter sure would be nice.

Any thoughts??

I wound up paying a small fortune for stupid stuff, to run a carb. Intake, carb, distributor, coil etc. This was before eBay, so I bought it all basically new...

I'd run the TPI. Hit http://www.thirdgen.org for some advice, as well. I've asked over there what I'll need to do when I throw the 450HP stroker in, and it came down to a change in the chip & the injectors if I remember correctly.

Bryan

I swapped a TPI motor into my 5 last winter. My solution to making sure I got everything was to buy a complete 1986 Trans Am. It was lightly wrecked (still drivable) and the interior was trashed. I got it for $900. I tore the car completely apart and sold everything I didn't need on Ebay. I got $1200 out of the parts, the extra $300 helped to pay for some of the minor crap needed for the swap (belts, hoses, fuel pumps, ...). This is not the easiest way because you spend a lot of time parting out the donor car, but it is definitly the the cheapest way.

I would highly recommend getting a GOOD aftermarket wiring harness instead of trying to use the donor cars harness like I did. I spent around 30 hours on the harness. I spent a lot of time tracing wires and figuring out what I did/did not need. The good part is I am VERY familiar with the engines wiring and its various sensors and functions, the bad part is that I still have nightmares about being attacked by thousands of multi-colored snakes. Buying an aftermarket harness for $300 or so seems like a really good idea now.

I disagree that the MAP system is the best way to go, especially if you are putting the system on a different engine or plan to modify the engine. MAF systems are very forgiving and routing the ducting was easy. If you plan to use an engine driven fan, you will have to route ducting anyway, the fan would make a quick snack of a K&N filter stuck on the throttle body.

One last thing, the TPI routes engine coolant through the throttle body and from there to the heater. I don't know why, but it does. the problem is that there is no good way to route the return line. I am not running a heater, but since I couldn't find out why GM chose to route coolant to the throttle body I didn't want to plug it off. I ended up making a tee out of household copper pipe fittings and routing the heater return hose into the lower radiator hose. Supposedly such a tee is available from a GM dealer, but I had no luck finding a parts guy who could find it in their system. Dealership parts counters are getting as bad as Auto Zero in terms of the quality of their countermen these days. "No, I don't want fries with my motor mounts, but thanks for asking."

RE: SD vs MAP
I went MAP because I thought the vibrations/moisture would do in an expensive MAF sensor. I was concerned that a deep water crossing or the like could wreck the thing in short order - I know, I know, if I have water there than I have bigger things to worry about, but the MAP conversion was simple, and now I have no concerns about routing or anything. I would eventually like to get tubing to ditch the K&N on the throttle body because it gets filthy from the fans.

I forget what I did in relation to the heater hoses, but it all worked out. The JTR guy sells return fittings, but I didn't need one...

I would ALSO recommend getting an aftermarket harness. The initial setup of a used one is a PITA, but on top of that, you're dealing with a harness that's over 10 years old. You could be chasing errant shorts without even knowing it. I got mine from FIS, out of Texas, and one benefit with that was that if I had any issues, I could call up & ask, and expect them to resolve it. Maybe not the cheapest way to go, but possibly more reliable.
Nice guys, and check their site (http://www.fuelinjection.com/) for lots of free swap info.

Bryan

If your anywhere near Kalamazoo come over and check out my setup. It's an 88 MAF system on a 355 W/Dart heads etc....Stuck in my TJ. I'd say go painless for the harness and they basically tell you what you need to hook it up. Pretty easy actually cause it's all just plug in.
Dave

hey TJTRUBL curious do your gauges work just wandering how that turned out as far as the factory ones

finally a thread with good tech info. thanks guys:beer:

Originally posted by snacksnack
hey TJTRUBL curious do your gauges work just wandering how that turned out as far as the factory ones

I actually gave up on the factory ones. I made a piece of stainless that fits exactly where the original gauge cluster did. Then I covered it in grey vinal fabric to give it more of a factory look. Then I mounted my Auto Meter gauges in it.
Dave

.

TJTRUBL- I might be able to swing out that way sometime in the near future. I live in Wixom. Which is near Brighton/Novi. So I am a good ways from you.

I think I might have to just start buying parts for the TPI as I go and then swap it in early next spring.

I am in the process of doing the following:
Engine swap
Trans swap
T-case swap
Front/rear axle swaps
SOA

So money is goona be tight getting all that done. Plus the Carb setup for me would be cheap, roughly $200. All I need is an intake to match the Vortec heads.

And I don't know about SD, but the MAF are pretty forgiving up to a point, in which they need to be re-calibrated, or an aftermarket one be installed. Coarse, that is the Ford version, I don't know anything about Chevy's MAF.

Thanks,
Steve

I recommend the Painless Wiring Harness on the TPI motor I used. I literally had it hooked up and ready to go in under an hour, it's that easy. I converted my motor to Speed Density/MAP and got a custom chip from Howell.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Kicker
[B]TJTRUBL- I might be able to swing out that way sometime in the near future. I live in Wixom. Which is near Brighton/Novi. So I am a good ways from you.

I think I might have to just start buying parts for the TPI as I go and then swap it in early next spring.

Just get ahold of me at BigD116@AOL.com when you want to see it. I did the whole swap at once and lost almost a year of wheeling because of it. Really in Michigan a carb would probably work just as good, Not too many hills around that you cant get a carb to work on.
Dave