Well, I'm on a lazy search again... wanting to learn about hydroboost.
I'm going to post some links, and pics. I'd like to find out more info...
And for those that think this is not hardcore, you find better info!

I'd like to open this to people to post thier pics of different Hydroboot units.

The Bendix "Hydro-Boost" system dates back to 1973. The system uses hydraulic pressure generated by the power steering pump rather than engine vacuum to provide power assist. Still in uses today.

Delco also has a Hydro Boost system.

Why Hydrooboost over a vacuum canister? Hydroboost give you Variable gains available (4:1 to 8.2:1)

Best post I've found on Pirate4x4 for Hydroboost info: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305103&highlight=hydroboost
Best guy for answering hydroboost questions on Pirate -> VancoPBS
- his web page: www . vancopbs . com/ (Hint: High Flow is good for Ram Assist)
More Links:
http://www.hydratechbraking.com/forums/
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/bf030542.htm
http://www.foundationbrakes.com/en-us/Pages/default.aspx
http://www.powerbrakesonline.com/

Edit Even More:
http://www.remanbrakes.com/pdfs/hydro-boostinstallation.pdf
http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Article/38431/operation_diagnosis_and_repair_of_hydroboost_power _assist_systems.aspx
http://nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=134759 How to rebuild not finished
http://wallyandsue.blogspot.com/2009/12/hydroboost-kit-and-input-rod-seal.html How to rebuild
http://wallyandsue.blogspot.com/2009/12/hydroboost-measurements.html How to rebuild
http://books.google.com/books?id=hRmdC6hZ2q0C&pg=PA195&lpg=PA195&dq=hydroboost+spool+valve&source=bl&ots=Ey95VB6LQo&sig=2n7m_hh4SzjVf0bu5LPzYGCcRpE&hl=en&ei=oBLyS-PNNcH78AauqMjnDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBQQ6AEwADgK#v=onepage&q&f=false
http://vintagetest.com/chassis/dch74/V2D748005.pdf
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=106056

http://bepco.biz/Catalogs/VacHydCat/S5_A.pdf
http://www.cpptse.com/BH-101.pdf

Bendix sold the hydroboost to Bosch in 1994
http://rb-kwin.bosch.com/en-NA/start/nfz_brake1.html (Link now dead)
Internet archive http://replay.waybackmachine.org/20060208043235/http://rb-kwin.bosch.com/en-NA/start/nfz_brake1.html (takes a while to load, maybe on tape?)

IMGs (Taken from other sites)
Hydroboost external accumulator design
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/explodedview1.jpg

The '80 - '85 Type II internal accumulator design:
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/explodedview2.jpg

spool valve
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/bf/elements/030542a.gif

http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/hydroboost.png
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/diabrake.gif
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/hydroboost_D10.png

HUMVEE aka H1
bolt pattern of 4 1/4 x 3 3/8"
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/HB-GM-1.jpg
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/HB-GM-2.jpg
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/HB-GM-3.jpg
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/HB-GM-4.jpg

1978 Thunderbird, 4 wd disc brakes

http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/Hydroboost_research_Ford_78_06s.jpg
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/Hydroboost_research_Ford_78_02.jpg
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/Hydroboost_research_Ford_78_03.jpg
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/Hydroboost_research_Ford_78_05.jpg

1984 Caddy Type II internal accumulator design:
(Less PSI that the external design)

http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/hydroboost_84_caddy_01.jpg
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/hydroboost_84_caddy_02.jpg
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/hydroboost_84_caddy_03.jpg

Hydroboost from a 1979 C30 with JD8 brakes on my 53 F350. Mounted backwards of the norm.

Hydroboost from a C30 with JD8 brakes on my 53 F350. Mounted backwards of the norm.Thanks Chuck!
What year C30?
Nice gold accumulator... what Disc / drum master is that?

Thanks Chuck!
What year C30?
Nice gold accumulator... what Disc / drum master is that?

1979 C30 Dually with JD8 Brakes - Master cylinder is the same.

Going to use a setup from a late 90's chevy astro. Have it now but dont have pics. Will let you know when its finished.

Mine is out of 01 Mustang Cobra, mounting plate from PartsMike and custom made hoses:

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/7613/hb1vs8.jpg

The push rod length is almost perfect for CJ/YJ, had to add 1/2 inch spacer under the mounting plate but that's was it.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/7867/img1341oq5.jpg

Trouble shooting guide -> http://www.precisionrebuilders.com/bendix_install.html
http://www.precisionrebuilders.com/images/trbl_images/tfhbbs.gif

Operation, Diagnosis and Repair of HYDRO-BOOST (http://www.esnips.com/doc/35e1d25d-b9f6-4ec3-800b-aef8dfc4bfab/Operation,-Diagnosis-and-Repair-of-HYDRO-BOOST)


Brake system (http://www.esnips.com/doc/d186aa5a-b2da-44a7-9f3e-83dcdc433ad9/brake-system)

I am going to ask a very noob question, because this post couldn't have come at a better time. What is the benefit of going to a hydro-boost setup?

I am trying to acquire parts to finish the redux of my CJ-5 and need to come up with either a power brake bracket and the components for it, or a hydroboost setup. How about cost if you are starting from scratch?

I am going to ask a very noob question, because this post couldn't have come at a better time. What is the benefit of going to a hydro-boost setup?

I am trying to acquire parts to finish the redux of my CJ-5 and need to come up with either a power brake bracket and the components for it, or a hydroboost setup. How about cost if you are starting from scratch?
You can get a kit for around $700.

Cheaper, if you can find junk parts, in good shape. Rebuild is $180 or up.

Hydroboost gives you more PSI in the brake line, allowing for better braking.
I'm going to it, as I plan an Auto doubler running 40" tires and want the best brakes possiable.
Not everyone needs it.

I am running a Howe pump with hydro assist steering. Can the pump run both?

Here's a question: I've been reading about the accumulator in the hydroboost units. I have read that there are essentially two types. There is a nitrogen charged unit, and a spring loaded unit. I hear the nitrogen charged ones will eventually leak, so I'd like to go with a set-up that uses the spring type. Anybody know what vehicles might have these?

I am running a Howe pump with hydro assist steering. Can the pump run both?

I can't see any problems, but I'd call Howe to confrim.

Here's a question: I've been reading about the accumulator in the hydroboost units. I have read that there are essentially two types. There is a nitrogen charged unit, and a spring loaded unit. I hear the nitrogen charged ones will eventually leak, so I'd like to go with a set-up that uses the spring type. Anybody know what vehicles might have these?Above stated
The '80 - '85 Type II internal accumulator design:

Nice information and schematics... Does anyone know what to modify in the hydrobooster to make it High flow so you can use it with a hydro assist???

Nice information and schematics... Does anyone know what to modify in the hydrobooster to make it High flow so you can use it with a hydro assist???Havn't found this out yet... but it's not an easy mod like the power steering pump.

I hate to pimp a vendor I haven't used, but Vanco doest the rebuild and high flow at a fair price.

Here's a question: I've been reading about the accumulator in the hydroboost units. I have read that there are essentially two types. There is a nitrogen charged unit, and a spring loaded unit. I hear the nitrogen charged ones will eventually leak, so I'd like to go with a set-up that uses the spring type. Anybody know what vehicles might have these?

Those where used in the mid 70s. I don't use them because they're too old, the bodies only have so much life in them. While it's true a nitrogen chamber's o-rings can go bad, the spring loaded o-rings can also go bad causing the same problem.

Nice information and schematics... Does anyone know what to modify in the hydrobooster to make it High flow so you can use it with a hydro assist???

It's machining I do on the inside of a hydroboost. I've never posted how I do it. It's a process I developed after running into problems with hydro assisted vehicles running my system.

It's machining I do on the inside of a hydroboost. I've never posted how I do it. It's a process I developed after running into problems with hydro assisted vehicles running my system.

Is the machining needed? is it in certian instances that it is? maybe hose size or pump flow? My rig is getting overhauled and the next step is hydro assist or full hydro steering and i have one of your boosters.. Also an AGR XJ pump. As the rig is down, i can maybe squeese it into the budget but just curious? About how long and price? also i guess as its down to look it over. bought it used. I used it for a year no real problems but figure why not give it a look over?

Anyone have a hose schematic available. I've got a hydroboost out of an 87 C30 I am considering putting into my CJ5 with SBC and GM Power steering pump. I've got to get the plumbing right so that I don't have to pay twice for custom hoses to be made. I need to make sure my power steering continues to work as well.

Trouble shooting guide -> http://www.precisionrebuilders.com/bendix_install.html
http://www.precisionrebuilders.com/images/trbl_images/tfhbbs.gif

I see no proportioning block... Is that so? I saw one in an earlier pic though.
Is it not needed, or just not shown?

99 and newer superduties have hydro boost. Those would be better setups than the old 1980 chevies. I got mine off ebay for $60.

edit* nix the 05 silverado's it might just be the tahoe's

I used a 2004 Chevy Tahoe hydrobooster in my CJ7. I took the proportioning valve and ABS controller out and then had to get an adapter to plug my brakelines in. Cost me 125 at a local wrecking yard. The guy had no idea what it was but I walked into the shed where they had all the brake boosters hanging and I spotted two hydroboost units. In hindsight I should have taken the one from a H1 because it is shorter, but the chevy one is working great for me.

and now i cant find pictures of it

heres what it went into though

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...2/DSC01133.jpg

Is the machining needed? is it in certian instances that it is? maybe hose size or pump flow? My rig is getting overhauled and the next step is hydro assist or full hydro steering and i have one of your boosters.. Also an AGR XJ pump. As the rig is down, i can maybe squeese it into the budget but just curious? About how long and price? also i guess as its down to look it over. bought it used. I used it for a year no real problems but figure why not give it a look over?

It's not 100% necessary. You should try it first, if using your brakes takes away from the steering then it's necessary.

I'd like to open this to people to post thier pics of different Hydroboot units.

Vanco hydroboost (picked up last year on a Christmas Special-Thanks Van!):
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/Hydroboost002.jpg

Here it is installed in my 76 CJ5 with Ford 5.0L:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/Picture010.jpg

The only 'issues' I had was attaching the hoses to the steering gear. There wasn't adequate room between the box and the grill shell. If you're running a 1" body lift you won't have these problems. I had a set of custom stainless steel tubes made:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/PowerSteeringTubes.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/PowerSteeringTubes012.jpg

These allowed me to run ss braided lines for everything, except the return connection from the cooler through the filter back to the pump which is two short lengths of rubber hose:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/ContourFan022.jpg

I wish mine was as clean an install. :( But it works!

http://solofabworks.com/images2/rigs3/hydroboost.jpg

what would be the turnaround time on the machine work? That i assume also includes an overhaul or change whats bad and keep whats good?

Anyone have a hose schematic available. I've got a hydroboost out of an 87 C30 I am considering putting into my CJ5 with SBC and GM Power steering pump. I've got to get the plumbing right so that I don't have to pay twice for custom hoses to be made. I need to make sure my power steering continues to work as well.


http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/204/hydroboostzz4.jpg

I used one from a 96 c3500 on my cj7 and what does it matter if the nitrogen bleeds off after so long... don't you still have the manual brakes like always??? I could be totally wrong but mines still not running so I don't know for sure.

I think the above diagram may be wrong....
I have heard of to many people doing exactly as shown above and the HB self applying (brake pedal pulls itself to the floor).

The "proper" way is to have the return from the HB go straight thru the "top" of the T and the Power steering gear needs to return thru the "Bottom" of the T. this provides for no back pressure into the HB unit.

like this:

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w286/rudytj/hydroboostzzProper.jpg

also note the power steering fluid filter. If used it MUST be in the line between the power steering gear and the T. Make sure NOTHING can impede the flow of fluid from the HB.

or i could be wrong....I used a dual return power steering reservoir so i wouldn't need to deal with it.

another diagram that includes a filter
http://www.vancopbs.com/category_s/114.htm

I junkyarded my jeep TJ set up.
I used a HB from a astro.
A 1/4 aluminum spacer from behind the vac booster on a jeep cherokee.
The HB bracket from an old caddy.
This gave me the correct depth and angle. Both of which are critical. it has been said if the angles are correct-it will last forever, if they are off even a little it will last only hours or days.
Hoses, i used the stock TJ pressure to go from the pump to the HB.


scott

Is anybody running a dual power steering pump set up? I was thinking of running one for the hydroboost and the other for hydro assist and steering. Anybody have pictures? My specs are in the sig but I want basic ideas or results.

These allowed me to run ss braided lines for everything, [/IMG]

Whats the psi rating for those? Have them made at a hose shop or were those from Vanco ?

Is anybody running a dual power steering pump set up? I was thinking of running one for the hydroboost and the other for hydro assist and steering. Anybody have pictures? My specs are in the sig but I want basic ideas or results.
If you fine this, post a link!

Heard it talked about, never seen a pic.

If you fine this, post a link!

Heard it talked about, never seen a pic.

pmd

Hook up the steering with one pump just like you would without a hydroboost.

The other pump and hydroboost...

1. Pressure line from the pump to the pressure side of the hydroboost (the hole closest to the accumulator).

2. There's two lines left on the hydroboost, a low pressure and a high pressure. BOTH LINES must go back to the reservoir separately. Do not plug of the second high pressure line, do not Tee these two lines.

That's pretty much it.

Do you know where i can get a higher out put power steering pump? I am afraid i the stock chevy pump wont keep up with brakes and power steering with hydrolic assist

www.howeperformance.com/

www.pscmotorsports.com/

Hook up the steering with one pump just like you would without a hydroboost.

The other pump and hydroboost...

1. Pressure line from the pump to the pressure side of the hydroboost (the hole closest to the accumulator).

2. There's two lines left on the hydroboost, a low pressure and a high pressure. BOTH LINES must go back to the reservoir separately. Do not plug of the second high pressure line, do not Tee these two lines.

That's pretty much it.
Thanks for the info!


It would be easy enough to weld on a nipple...
But I've a spare housing with two returns.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/mrnimages/Saginaw_pumps_02.jpg

I think the above diagram may be wrong....
I have heard of to many people doing exactly as shown above and the HB self applying (brake pedal pulls itself to the floor).

The "proper" way is to have the return from the HB go straight thru the "top" of the T and the Power steering gear needs to return thru the "Bottom" of the T. this provides for no back pressure into the HB unit.

like this:

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w286/rudytj/hydroboostzzProper.jpg

also note the power steering fluid filter. If used it MUST be in the line between the power steering gear and the T. Make sure NOTHING can impede the flow of fluid from the HB.

or i could be wrong....I used a dual return power steering reservoir so i wouldn't need to deal with it.

another diagram that includes a filter
http://www.vancopbs.com/category_s/114.htm

I junkyarded my jeep TJ set up.
I used a HB from a astro.
A 1/4 aluminum spacer from behind the vac booster on a jeep cherokee.
The HB bracket from an old caddy.
This gave me the correct depth and angle. Both of which are critical. it has been said if the angles are correct-it will last forever, if they are off even a little it will last only hours or days.
Hoses, i used the stock TJ pressure to go from the pump to the HB.


scott

I missed this. Scott is 100% right (I bet he called me...), the T is very important and he nailed the correct way of installing it.

All parts from a '90 Astro.

http://www.no-bling.com/galleries/goat_Truck/3-17-09%20008.jpg

http://www.no-bling.com/galleries/goat_Truck/3-17-09%20017.jpg

http://www.no-bling.com/galleries/goat_Truck/3-17-09%20015.jpg

http://www.no-bling.com/galleries/goat_Truck/3-17-09%20011.jpg

http://www.no-bling.com/galleries/goat_Truck/3-17-09%20010.jpg

http://www.no-bling.com/galleries/goat_Truck/3-17-09%20016.jpg

I missed this. Scott is 100% right (I bet he called me...), the T is very important and he nailed the correct way of installing it.


recognized your words? you are/were a great asset to me during my setting up my hydroboost. I feel the least i can do is share a bit of the knowledge that you so freely gave to me!!!

scott
97 tj

All parts from a '90 Astro.
Nice pics with the tape :beer:

It sure looks the same as my 84 Caddy internal accumulator design....

This one is an external accumulator

This one is an external accumulator
Thanks, now that I go back and look the one pic you can tell

Q, Ram Asst. and Hydroboost.

Can you skip taping the steering box and just run a spliter at the intersection to go to the steering box and then to the Hydro Ram asst.




http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w286/rudytj/hydroboostzzProper.jpg

Just installed my hydroboost. If I plug the old vacuum brake port on the intake manifold the Jeep will not crank or run. If I take the cap off the Jeep runs fine with the vacuum port wide open. What is going on?

Q, Ram Asst. and Hydroboost.

Can you skip taping the steering box and just run a spliter at the intersection to go to the steering box and then to the Hydro Ram asst.




http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w286/rudytj/hydroboostzzProper.jpg
NO! How would the P/S fluid be directed into the proper ports on the ram to turn left or right?

Take the advice and run both returns back to the reservoir - using a tee is just another source of problems - start adding in coolers and its even worse. My Vanco unit was a bolt-on with my 51 Willys with a wagoneer pedal unit. Works great with hydro-assist and a 4.5 gpm older AGR pump. Use good lines - not standard automotive steel-braided lines or stock chinese autozone replacements - both typically rated for max of 1500 psi.

Can I close the power steering pump outlet if I want to install it with an exclusive pump??

Like this;

i think van answered the question about a dedicated pump for the hydroboost in post #36 above

Can I run a F350 hydroboost with disc/Drums configuration? or must to be disc/disc as the stock set up???
(Toy PU axles)

this is the HB

Yes, you can.

Yes, you can.
I'm getting excited to put my new Vanco system on my YJ! It's going to be so nice to not have mushy brakes anymore.

If your gonna be using the SD h-boost you can go ahead and grap the brake pedal assembly. Really simple and not connected to anything.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x89/mudbug_660/008.jpg

It's only going to take a small amt of modification to get it to fit in my cj3a
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x89/mudbug_660/006.jpg

Hello, I was told about this site from another forum. My name is Justin, and Im doing a V8 swap in my 88" Blazer. I ran into a problem with the brake booster being in the way of my 5.3 Ls Gen III head and coil packs. Swapped out the vac system to a '00 Chev Astro HB set up.

My question is, has anyone done this in a 1st gen s-10! Of course there will be some fab work, just like everything else has. Mounting the HB in the correct angle is the only reason I ask. The master cylinder is angled up in a wedge configuration.

Would anyone have a picture of this style unit installed. I bought this at a pick and pull, but they no longer allow customers to walk out in the yard( Insurance reasons) So I have no reference to go off of!

Sorry if I asked a retorical question. I havent ever done anything like a HB before! Any help or suggestions would be GREAT!

Im just about 3 months away from finishing this truck, and this is one of the hang ups! :)

Thanks
Justin

to the top for my own future reference

Hook up the steering with one pump just like you would without a hydroboost.

The other pump and hydroboost...

1. Pressure line from the pump to the pressure side of the hydroboost (the hole closest to the accumulator).

2. There's two lines left on the hydroboost, a low pressure and a high pressure. BOTH LINES must go back to the reservoir separately. Do not plug of the second high pressure line, do not Tee these two lines.

That's pretty much it.

You say this??

Yep!

hey Vancoguy, can I run hydraulic fluid instead of P/S fluid?

my plans are to run a big hydro pump for the winch/steering/brakes, etc.. and I don't want to eat seals or mess up the brakes running regular hydro.

I have guys running it, but I don't have a lot of experiance running hydraulic fluid. No reports of anything bad happening.

do I need to drill out the small hole in the fitting for the pump? would it flow more or give more pressure?

In the above diagram, when returning the high pressure from the hydro-boost to the PS pump, what is the recommended method to connect it?

Just hose clamp it back in the second low pressure return or what?

Thanks.

Yup just hose clamp it.

Ok, thanks...

This was my dual power steering pump set up on a 4.0. It was going to be used to run my hydraulic suspension but it will atleast give you an idea. I had twin Chevy pumps. I later took it off because it would spike when I lifted and lowered the rig.
I had great sucess with 1 pump on full hydro steering and and a mid 80's hydro boost. I ran the hydro boost about 5-6 years. Earlier this year I was out at a new park in Oklahoma and it locked up. After a bunch of research I stumbled onto Van. Ater a few e-mails and about a 30-45 minute called we figured out I had toasted my hydro boost. I cannot say enough about Van as you are seeing in this post. My equipment came of a 3 ton Mrs Bairds bread truck. I purchased nothing from Van but he took all the time in the world to help !
As for me I went full circle and I am back to manual brakes on my buggy. Nice and simple,easy etc.

http://blacksheep4x4.smugmug.com/photos/53943415_JKgvW-O.jpg

Drivers side view

http://blacksheep4x4.smugmug.com/photos/53943416_scQEG-M.jpg

http://blacksheep4x4.smugmug.com/photos/53943417_vCmL4-O.jpg

Mike Green

http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/drivetrain/131_0809_chevy_1_ton_steering_hydroboost_rebuild/index.html

I used a booster out of an astro van.It came with the stock plastic resivour master, I threw the master out and used an m1730, I think it ran about 20 bones. It bolted directly to the booster with no mod. I scored the booster at a pick part for 15 bucks. Then I got the hoses built for the entire system for about a hundy bucks. All the adapters to convert from the bubble flare to the 6an or jic 37* as the hyrdalic shops call them are from russell fittings. For the return line i bought a 6an compression fitting from russel fittings or earls. ( i cant remember) then i cut the little flared end off the pump return pipe and torqued the compression fitting on. i did the exact same on the return on the hydroboost. the brass fitting was a little big so i tossed it in my lathe and turned it down. . I also put a cooler in the works. system works great. i dont have a truck load of time on the jeep yet. But i think it works awesome.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s221/blueislander92/IMG_0858.jpg

not a great pic but you get the idea. btw. after this picture was taken i removed everything and plated the fire wall.

new too me


http://www.cncbrakes.com/images/236.jpg

http://www.cncbrakes.com/dcbpa.asp?grp=dcbpa&subgrp=ha&series=236&subseries=
balance bar details
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/tech1k.htm
Another read I found http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...g_valves.shtml

You jeepers don't care:flipoff2: but the almost bolt in for a ScoutII is the late 70's caddy Eldorado, some came with 4whl discs, I used one on my SII with a tsm rear disc kit and it worked great. Ive recently collected a few other units that may help others out since this seems to be the best HB thread I have seen on the board.

From Left to right:

Late 70's caddy eldorado disc/drum approx rod length 5.25" from mounting flange to center 129813 appears to be cast on the booster. Flared fittings. I believe it uses a spring instead of nitrogen

Early 1980's chevy K30 approx rod length 8.5 inches from mounting flange. O ring fittings 3450 cast on HB body

Chevy 3/4 ton 4whl drive HD with utility body, phone company truck. The doors with vin and seat belts were gone, so i couldn't tell what year it was, the rear axle was also gone, so I don't know about the rear brakes. The truck appeared to be only a few years old, I will return to the yard again to see if I can find the year. 205C was cast on HB body. Rod length from flange 7 5/8 inches


93 chevy 15K gvw phone company truck 4 whl discs 454, 4l80E. 613U cast on HB body. 7 5/8 rod length from mounting flange.

All rod lengths are from mounting flange of HB unit to center of hole and are approximations. I have some more pics if someone wants to see something in more detail

I am going to convert my 84 K20 to rear discs with a factory disc rearend from a ford van and hope that one of these will prove suitable. From looking at them for a few minutes all of the booster units except for the caddy appear to be identical externally.

I need to find the bore sizes of these master cylinders if anyone knows where I can find the info it would be much appreciated, a PM might be better than clogging up the thread.

Thanks for the great post!

A few more pictures would be nice :D
Edit, see if any of the input holes are the same size.

I need to find the bore sizes of these master cylinders if anyone knows where I can find the info it would be much appreciated, a PM might be better than clogging up the thread.
This isn't clogging up the thread, this is good to know. (Plus I know the OP :p )

For the ones you have the years I'd check napaonline and rockauto to see what they list.
Some times you get conflicting info, so
Since you've them out, I'd suggest unbolting the MC and measuring. Just get the inside ID, should be close enough to let you know. At least it was for mine.

The 3rd setup in my previous post is from a late production 00, or more likely a early production 01 silverado 2500HD 9200lb gvw. I now believe it had 4whl discs fwiw. Here is a pic with the casting numbers

I have a Chevy van hydrobooster I want to put on my 98 XJ. I haven't put it on because I was told the boosters fail alot (all hydroboosters, not just Chevy).

Will my stock XJ mastercylinder work ok in front of the hydrobooster. I'm also running 03 WJ knucles and brakes.

Here is a pick of the booster:

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh68/trailratethis/brakebooster.jpg

I have a Chevy van hydrobooster I want to put on my 98 XJ. I haven't put it on because I was told the boosters fail alot (all hydroboosters, not just Chevy).

Will my stock XJ mastercylinder work ok in front of the hydrobooster. I'm also running 03 WJ knucles and brakes.

The answer is no, it's not going to fit. A good replacement would be a '78 Corvette (power brake) MC in all iron which is low profile, disc/disc, and also has a stub small enough to fit into your (filthy) Astro HB. You can buy one new or get a reman (FENCO) MC from Autozone (sleeved, not honed) for.... $25.

Now, I constantly see mis-info posted on the web re how to plum the return Tee fitting if you are using one. Granted the dual return is superior, but you will likely only notice any difference while at very low rpm.

So what is the correct way to plumb a Tee fitting if you are using one? Well, how about checking with the guys who built the hydroboosts? See, the return flow from the HB... it's intermittant and only when you step on the pedal. The primary return flow is from the gear box so it should run (on run) in the Tee fitting with the intermittant flow coming from the HB at the 90*.

You don't have to believe me, but everyone running the HB's I set them up with has had... zero complaints about how the Tee routing has worked for them... except in circumstances where they would have been better served by eliminating it and running the dual return to the pump.

I'll share this with you if you haven't seen it elsewhere:

Here is a plumbing diagram, an accurate one... if you've seen something else out on the web that is different it's wrong. This is from the Bendix tech manual by permission to Eldon McFarling who gave me permission to use it and he got permission from Bendix:

(note that your MC/proportioning plumbing for front and rear may differ from this diagram depending on the MC that you are using, many newer MCs us the front port for the rear brakes)


http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo53/65Gladiator/HB/th_HydroboostSchematic_Accurate.gif (http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo53/65Gladiator/HB/HydroboostSchematic_Accurate.gif)


Now, I'm going to add something else here. If you run dual pumps so you can designate one to the HB... it is best to have a three bung reservoir for the return from the HB and the pressure out from the HB to return in separate circuits. But, guess what? It's not required. Why? Because the return from the HB is intermittant and the pressure out from the HB is... not like the pressure going in (1,500psi) at all... so you can run the pressure out to the on run side of a Tee fitting into the second port on the reservoir and the return from the HB to the 90* on the Tee and... it works. Guys are running it like that and if you use the Appleton cooler/reservoir/filter it only has two bungs. Shop at PSC Motorsports or Howe Performance (others?) if you want to run the more correct three bung res.;)

Here you go, two ways to do it, both work: (yes, the diagram is butchered, feel free to re-image it, I don't have time at the present) Shown in the diagram is the dual PS pump mount I've designed for the AMC V8 and you can contact me if you have an interest in how that was accomplished and I'll send you a link to the web page (or hit the link in my sig and it will get you close enough).

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo53/65Gladiator/AMC%202nd%20PS%20Pump%20Mounting/th_hydroboosthydroassits_2pumps-c.jpg (http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo53/65Gladiator/AMC%202nd%20PS%20Pump%20Mounting/hydroboosthydroassits_2pumps-c.jpg)

Back to the MC bore specs you guys were looking for... I've started a small list and these are for rigs that were mostly hydroboosted... because those are the MCs that are most likely to fit into your hydroboost unlike the majority of the vacuum MCs out there. Note that many later model.... '00+ MC's will also have too large of a stub to fit into ealier hydroboost so measure what'cha got to see what'll fit. Also note that while most vehicle use the 3.40" bolt centers for the MC there is Ford using 3.20" and Dodge using 3.20" and 3.40". I believe that Hummer used both bolt patterns as well and the GM vans with the square aluminum MC... are probably on 3.20" where all their other stuff is on 3.40".

There is some overlap in this list because I had two lists and one also includes the size of the calipers used. The general rule of thumb is that the smaller the piston the less pedal pressure but you really need to also factor in how much fluid you need to push to work the size of the pistons in your calipers. This gives you a start.... an idea anyway.

2005 Chevy 3500 (with HB) = 1 15/32”
1995 Astro Van (with HB) = 1-1/4"
1991 F450 (with HB) = 1 5/16”
2005 F450 (with HB) = 1 3/8”
1984 Chevy K10 = 1-1/8" & 1-37/64"; 4WD
’92 S10 = 24 & 36 mm
’90 Chevy 2500 8,600 GVWR = 1 ¼”
1989 Chevy 1500 = 24 &36mm
2000 Chevy 1500 w/hydroboost = 37mm
’99 Camaro = 1”
’98 Blazer = 1”
2002 Chevy 3500 & ’96 P30 Van (disc/disc) = 40mm
1992 Chevy Suburban = 1 1/8” & 1 37/64”
‘99+ Mustangs w/V8 = 1 1/16”
’96-’98 Mustangs w/V8 = 1”
Hummer = 15/16”
’03-‘07 Chevy 1500- 3500 disc/disc = 1 15/32” (dual piston calipers = 2.36”)
’02 Chevy 2500-3500 disc/disc = 37mm or 1.456” or ~1 7/16” (dual piston calipers = 2.0 to 2.25”)
’99-04 F250-F550 =13/16” w/cruise, 1 3/8” wo/cruise (dual piston calipers = from 2.20” or 56mm to 2.362” or 60mm)
’01-05 Dodge 3500 disc/disc = 1 ¼” (dual piston calipers = 2.20” frt and 2.10” rear on DRW, 1.77” for SRW)
’97 F350 disc/drum = 1 ¼” (dual piston calipers = 2.20” or 56mm)
’91 F450 disc/disc = 1 5/16” (dual piston calipers = 2.362” or 60mm)
1980 Cadillac disc/disc = 1”
’88-‘97 (some 2000) GM 1500-3500 disc/drum = (single piston caliper = 3.15”)
’88-‘97 (some 2000) GM 1500-2500 disc/drum = 1 ¼” (single piston caliper = 2.935”)
‘80’s GM Dually truck and Corvette = 1 1/8” (1.125”)
’87 GM Dually step van = 1 5/16”
Astro van disc/drum = 1 1/8 to ¼” (single piston caliper = 2.934”)

Definitely good info as I may be exploring hydroboost for the TJ. Dumb question, but will I need to replace the stock TJ PS pump in order to run hydro? I believe someone posted in another thread a way to modify their stock PS pump, believe was on a CJ or YJ, any info?

I couldn't advise you on that but from what I understand the TC pumps don't push enough GPM and then the pressure on some pumps (I don't know if this includes TC but I think it probably does) the PSI is too high for the relief valve on some hydroboosts. There are different relief valve ratings. You should probably run this by Jeff at Howe Performance, or the guys at PSC Motorsports, or try Vanco if you don't get a response here from them.

Now.... there's a member on here installing a Dodge HB and mount I shipped to him that has built TJ that should be posting up soon. I can ask him to respond...

I've only had apart 70 - 80's pumps, but the insides of 5 out of the 6 were similar enough to swap. (The One I didn't swap from is on the right side in the below pic. I don't know enough, so I just skipped using it)

I'd say open it up and take a look, if it looks like the rest try the mod.
(Make sure to find the post where people pumped the pressure up too high and cracked the sector.)

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/mrnimages/powersteering_pump_pistions_2.jpg

I couldn't advise you on that but from what I understand the TC pumps don't push enough GPM and then the pressure on some pumps (I don't know if this includes TC but I think it probably does) the PSI is too high for the relief valve on some hydroboosts. There are different relief valve ratings. You should probably run this by Jeff at Howe Performance, or the guys at PSC Motorsports, or try Vanco if you don't get a response here from them.

Now.... there's a member on here installing a Dodge HB and mount I shipped to him that has built TJ that should be posting up soon. I can ask him to respond...

Yep thats me:) I will be using PSCs new CB pump. When I get everything installed I will give you some feedback!

Now, I constantly see mis-info posted on the web re how to plum the return Tee fitting if you are using one. Granted the dual return is superior, but you will likely only notice any difference while at very low rpm.

So what is the correct way to plumb a Tee fitting if you are using one? Well, how about checking with the guys who built the hydroboosts? See, the return flow from the HB... it's intermittant and only when you step on the pedal. The primary return flow is from the gear box so it should run (on run) in the Tee fitting with the intermittant flow coming from the HB at the 90*.

You don't have to believe me, but everyone running the HB's I set them up with has had... zero complaints about how the Tee routing has worked for them... except in circumstances where they would have been better served by eliminating it and running the dual return to the pump.



I just have one question for you? What are the symptoms of a restricted HB return line with a high volume high flow pump in the system?

I know that's a far fetched scenario because no one that wheels uses a high flow high volume pump and places high demands on them at low speed.

I just have one question for you? What are the symptoms of a restricted HB return line with a high volume high flow pump in the system?

I know that's a far fetched scenario because no one that wheels uses a high flow high volume pump and places high demands on them at low speed.

A restriction on the hydroboost return line with any type pump affects the pedal return.

It can make the pedal return to slowly. It can stop the pedal from returning. If it's really bad it can actually made the pedal apply itself. (these are also signs of a bad hydroboost, can be either or).

In high pressure high flow power steering systems using a hydroboost the best way to solve the return line problem is to install a remote resivior.(PSC comes to mind)
With the availabilty of high pressure high flow pumps and hydroboost units(and by the way you dont have to modify them internaly high pressure high volume hydroboost units are availible) return line size becomes the factor.
It's like tring to put 10 Lb of mud In a 5 Lb bag.
The remote resivior will allow your return lines to flow with out back pressure allowing the hydroboost to work properly.The added benfits are increased fluid capasity and lower operating temp.

And remembar you can always build your own resivior.

i am in process of switching my drive train from a cj-7 to a yj. the cj had hydro-boost dana 60 up front and 14 bolt in the rear with disk brakes all around now my question i'm having brake problems i've used same set up i had on cj-7 but brakes aren't working rite. i changed out master cylinder but its still the same. i have presure but very little pedal. only have acouple inches of brake pedal only thing different is i had automatic brake set up in cj-7 and in yj brake set up is for manual. any help would be greatly appreciated

Right, the YJ brake rod length was one inch shorter than the CJ7. Assuming you don't have an adjustable brake rod and you made no modifications putting the CJ7 HB in the YJ: then figure a 4:1 pedal ratio (that's what the FSJs use) for every inch longer on you brake rod it will push the pedal back 4"s. On a YJ you probably don't have 4"s to move the pedal up so it's likely hitting on something before the piston in the MC is able to move fully to the rear.... so #1) you won't get a full application of brakes out of the MC set up like that, #2) your hydroboost is on the constant on situation.
If you don't have an adustable brake rod then space the HB out from the firewall 1".

Does that sound like it might help? You should be able to notice a higher brake pedal if that's the problem.

Right, the YJ brake rod length was one in shorter than the CJ7. Assuming you don't have an adjustable brake rod and you made no modifications putting the CJ7 HB in the YJ: then figure a 4:1 pedal ratio (that's what the FSJs use) for every inch longer on you brake rod it will push the pedal back 4"s. On a YJ you probably don't have 4"s to move the pedal up so it's likely hitting on something before the piston in the MC is able to move fully to the rear.... so #1) you won't get a full application of brakes out of the MC set up like that, #2) your hydroboost is on the constant on situation.
If you don't have an adustable brake rod then space the HB out from the firewall 1".

Does that sound like it might help? You should be able to notice a higher brake pedal if that's the problem.

cool i'll take a look into this thanks

Read this entire thread. Definitely helps clarify a few questions I had. A few still remain though.

First are the specs: '96 Sonoma with Gen III V8 from Tahoe. Using a '94 Astro van hydroboost unit and P/S reservoir.

Questions:
1) I have the stock Sonoma P/S cooler which is nothing more than a few squiggles of 3/8" hard line in front of the radiator. That currently cools the stock Sonoma steering gear box and that's it. During the hyrdoboost swap I'm getting rid of that and using a larger 5x7" finned heat exchanger. My question is, how will such a large 5x7 cooler affect fluid resistance? Is 5x7 too large (it's actually a trans cooler, but a trans doesn't operate at 1000+ psi so I'm unsure of the end results).

2) The 5.3L Tahoe power steering pump has a built in reservoir, but I snagged the Astro van remote reservoir as well. I can't see using two reservoirs as a bad thing if plumbed correctly (where should it go BTW) because of post # 83.

The remote resivior will allow your return lines to flow with out back pressure allowing the hydroboost to work properly.The added benfits are increased fluid capasity and lower operating temp. I see it as: extra fluid, more heat carrying capacity, longer fluid life, ect.

3rd question) The Tahoe 5.3L power steering pump has three ports on it. It appears (just by looking at it) there is one high pressure and two low pressure ports. Am I to assume the high pressure goes to the Astro van hydroboost unit, the upper low pressure port accepts the low pressure hose from the hydroboost unit, and the middle low pressure port is being fed by the heat exchanger?

4th and final question) For clearance issues with the power steering pump and Sonoma gear box (hopefully soon to be a Durango gear box) I had to change the stock Tahoe 5.3L P/S pulley to a smaller pulley. The change in ratio size is approximately 16%, so am I to assume the power steering system will be over-revved 16% compared to how it's designed? I'm ok with this if it has no ill-effects on longevity (within reason) or high RPM effectiveness (red line is at 6100rpm on the iron block LS1 on my truck). If this pulley change helps with low RPM turning, yeehaw, because it's hard to turn the tires when they are sometimes deep in icey snow (thus the desire to run a Durango steering gear box).

Thanks in advanced.

Edit: Currently using this diagram but I am confused as to where to put the extra reservoir.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a195/atomic178/Projects/Hydroboost%20and%2014b/hydroboostsetup.gif

Yeah, just a few questions there...

From the diagram shown that cooler is probably going to be adequate. It is similar in size to what is used on the F550 with hydroboost. I'd be cautious of using coolers for auto trannies, just because some will be more than two pass and you will want to avoid that or the plate type PS coolers.

As far as remote res, I don't think there is a suitable/effective way to add that to your current system. Alternatively you can take your existing pump and replace the reservoir with a round can that has one return connection and then add a remote res such the Appleton that also serves as a cooler/filter. You can run the HB return to the appleton. That should take care of all your concerns.

The high pressure from the pump goes to the port on the HB nearest the accumulator, the port on the driver's side of the HB is the pressure out to the high pressure port on the steering box. Sounds like you have the rest correct, haven't seen that system but it sounds logical.

The smaller pulley might work well for you, let us know.

i need some help. :confused: well i've been having problems with my brakes, i put new master cylinder on still doesn't help. i have good pressure but not good brakes :confused: i only have alittle pedal, last 2" is all i have. also my power steering pump is making noise so i'm getting new pump also my new master cylinder is leaking so i'm taking it back. so my questions are what power steering pump do i need planning on going full hydralic this winter. also what master cylinder? also i'm running disk brakes all around. PLEASE HELP

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv9/donniegmiller/2010-05-13091751.jpg

http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv9/donniegmiller/2010-05-13090749.jpg

Call me.

Your pedal rod may be too short. Also, if your MC is not from a vacuum boosted rig the indent on the piston where hydroboost rod engages may be too deep for the length of the rod. A '78 Vette power brake MC will work unless you have large bore dual piston calipers and then you might want to look at the late model MCs from GM.

Keep in mind.

If your using a Military CUCV as a source for the hydroboost unit there are two different kinds.

IE one that comes on a M1009 Blazer CUCV and the other models of CUCV IE the M1008, M1028, M1031.

These Hydroboost units both have a label on the plate that mounts to the firewall with a two letter marking.

See the TM at this link to find the correct HB for your application.
http://www.tpub.com/content/trucks1.25ton/TM-9-2320-289-34/index.htm

Keep in mind.

If your using a Military CUCV as a source for the hydroboost unit there are two different kinds.

IE one that comes on a M1009 Blazer CUCV and the other models of CUCV IE the M1008, M1028, M1031.

These Hydroboost units both have a label on the plate that mounts to the firewall with a two letter marking.

See the TM at this link to find the correct HB for your application.
http://www.tpub.com/content/trucks1.25ton/TM-9-2320-289-34/index.htm

What?

The one from a M1009 CUCV is a 3/4 ton unit and the others M1008, M1028 etc are for 1 ton or 5/4 ton trucks.

Understandable ?

What?

The one from a M1009 CUCV is a 3/4 ton unit and the others M1008, M1028 etc are for 1 ton or 5/4 ton trucks.

Understandable ?

OK, but how does this affect anything?

Hydroboost external accumulator design
http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/explodedview1.jpg
It was only a matter of time....
I just had to take a look at one.

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/img/hydroboost/Hydroboost_Disassemble_5.jpg

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/img/hydroboost/Hydroboost_Disassemble_10.jpg

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/img/hydroboost/Hydroboost_Disassemble_20.jpg

That vehicle needed a cooler.

That vehicle needed a cooler.
Taking one apart sure make me appreciate what you do, these things are not simple.


Did some buy Hydroboost from Bosch?
- They no longer list it on their web page.

http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/Spool_Valve_hydroboost.JPG

My setup is a year 2000 Ford F350 hydroboost (picture) and I am running a ported Toyota P/S pump that handles well my 1,5" X 6" power assist cilinder.

So, a couple of key questions:

a) Is this diagram the right way to install????
b) Will the HB affect with steering response with above circuit???

My setup is a year 2000 Ford F350 hydroboost (picture) and I am running a ported Toyota P/S pump that handles well my 1,5" X 6" power assist cilinder.

So, a couple of key questions:

a) Is this diagram the right way to install????
b) Will the HB affect with steering response with above circuit???

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=533948&stc=1&d=1278693478

a) Is this diagram the right way to install????
b) Will the HB affect with steering response with above circuit???

I just called Van and ordered a complte kit years ago, cost me a G note but it all installed easy and works fantastic.
My Vanco setup on the 5000 LB CJ 7 at 140 MPH works as good as the big Gran Turismo 8 piston Brembo ceramic brakes on my Jeep SRT8 at 170 + MPH.

If you"ve ever driven that fast you know what good brakes feel like when you use them.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=533948&stc=1&d=1278693478

a) Is this diagram the right way to install????
b) Will the HB affect with steering response with above circuit???

http://www.texasag02.com/PSC_Full_Hydro_w_Hydroboost.jpg

http://www.texasag02.com/PSC_Full_Hydro_w_Hydroboost.jpg

Thanks!!!

Thos shpuld be my configuration

Hook up the steering with one pump just like you would without a hydroboost.

The other pump and hydroboost...

1. Pressure line from the pump to the pressure side of the hydroboost (the hole closest to the accumulator).

2. There's two lines left on the hydroboost, a low pressure and a high pressure. BOTH LINES must go back to the reservoir separately. Do not plug of the second high pressure line, do not Tee these two lines.

That's pretty much it.

Can you share the reservoir when using two pumpss? (one for the hydroboost ans one for the power steering + hydro assist)

In such case, the reservoir must have 2 outlets (1 to each pump) and 3 inlets (hidroboost high and low pressure + steering box low pressure)???

Not positive on what you're asking, call this question in to me.

You're right Gonzalo. You can share one reservoir to 20 pumps as long as there is more than enough oil capacity and you have a big enough cooling system.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=533948&stc=1&d=1278693478

a) Is this diagram the right way to install????
b) Will the HB affect with steering response with above circuit???

In that diagram, if you are using a system like that... the Tee in the return line is shown positioned incorrectly which would allow the returning fluid from the box to create back pressure into the hydroboost. The way to correctly install it is with return from the box on the straight run to the pump with the HB return coming in on the 90* leg.

The one from a M1009 CUCV is a 3/4 ton unit and the others M1008, M1028 etc are for 1 ton or 5/4 ton trucks.

Understandable ?

He is citing the TM-9-2330-289-34P maintenance manual where it describes how installing the M1009 hydroboost in a M1008 will create ineffective brakes. The manual doesn't describe how they will be ineffective but it is likely as simple as the M1009 used a shorter brake rod so if installed in the M1008 you would not have adequate pedal travel. The master cylinders will be different as well but I don't think the manual was referencing anything other than the HB itself. It was odd that it does describe differences in the casting for the back half of the HB rather than talk about rod length or stamping number though....

Knowing the M1008 unit uses rod 71217 or 129708... it's a 6 5/8" rod and longer than most other rods used for the majority of applications.... it just boil down to rod length and sufficient travel. The civi truck used a 5 5/8" rod.

Caro amigo!

Estou procurando informações sobre o sistema de freios hidroboost, observei que tem um amplo conhecimento no assunto.

Recentemente, desmontei o sistema de freio e meu 4x4, pois o mesmo havia deixado de funcionar corretamente.
Não observei que havia pressão residual em seu interior, ocasionando um vazamento de fluído com muita pressão.

Com isso, a dump valve e a two-function valve sairam sem que eu pudesse olhar como estavam montadas.

Não consigo visualizar como estava montada a dumpe valva (o lado interno e externo).

Olhe as fotos aqui:
http://www.4x4brasil.com.br/forum/showthread.php?t=60268&page=156

No Brasil, esse tipo de sistema de freio existe somente na Ford F250, que aparentemente é o mostrado no post #72.

Caso puder me ajudar, ficarei imensamente agradecido.

Abraços.

Kim.
__________________________________________________ _______________

Dear friend!

Looking for information about the brake system hidroboost, I noticed that has a broad knowledge on the subject.

Recently dismantled the brake system and my 4x4, because it stopped working correctly.
Noticed that there was no residual pressure in its interior, causing a leak of fluid with a lot of pressure.

With this, the dump valve and two-function valve left without which I could look like they were assembled.

I can not visualize how the dump valve was mounted (the inside and outside).
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_FaOIAI9KB0o/TUvLuTTTzzI/AAAAAAAAH0Y/2agHIM74U6I/s800/Hydroboost_Disassemble_20%201.JPG

Look at the pictures here:
http://www.4x4brasil.com.br/forum/showthread.php?t=60268&page=156

In Brazil, this type of brake system exists only in the Ford F250, which is apparently the one shown in post # 72.

If you can help me, I'll be immensely grateful.

Hugs.

Kim.

It orients like this Kim:

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo53/65Gladiator/HB/th_DumpValve.jpg (http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo53/65Gladiator/HB/DumpValve.jpg)

Caro 66Gladiator401!

Obrigado pela imagem postada, foi de grande valia para mim!

Agora o freio está funcinando muito bem.

Aproveitando a oportunidade desta conversa, gostaria de saber qual a possibilidade de se achar o jogo de reparos do hidroboost?

Isso existe para venda por aí?

Muito obrigado pela ajuda!

Olhe a construção de meu 4x4!
Engesa Fuzileiro (https://picasaweb.google.com/kimcavazin)

Abraços.

Kim.

__________________________________________________ _______-

Dear 66Gladiator401!

Thanks for the picture posted was of great help to me!

Now is the brakes work nicely.

Taking the opportunity of this talk, I wonder what the possibility of finding a set of repairs hidroboost?

It exists to sell around?

Thank you for your help!

Look at the construction of my 4x4!
Engesa Fuzileiro (https://picasaweb.google.com/kimcavazin)

Hugs.

Kim.

Very good Kim! Now, if you are asking about rebuild seal kits you can source those at: http://www.mbmbrakeboosters.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=26&Itemid=6

Nice work on building that Jeep!

Caro 66Gladiator401!

Mais uma vez muito obrigado pela ajuda!
Vou registrar-me para pedir o kit de reparos, era isso mesmo que procurava!

Abraços.

Kim.

__________________________________________________ ________

Dear 66Gladiator401!

Again many thanks for your help!
I'll ask me to register the repair kit, it was even tried!

Hugs.

Kim.

thanks for bumping this
grabbed an astro unit yesterday
I have 1ton ford brakes so need a MC with over and inch bore, whats a good application to use?
its in a YJ

some swap info
the factory YJ stuff was 4" from firewall to pedal, the astro is 6"
I chopped the YJ spacer off at 2" and welded it to the astro mount plate
the pedal pin is a bit smaller on the YJ as well

thanks for bumping this
grabbed an astro unit yesterday
I have 1ton ford brakes so need a MC with over and inch bore, whats a good application to use?
its in a YJ

some swap info
the factory YJ stuff was 4" from firewall to pedal, the astro is 6"
I chopped the YJ spacer off at 2" and welded it to the astro mount plate
the pedal pin is a bit smaller on the YJ as well

I have the astro van booster on my YJ tub, and I am using a stock MC from a full size 79 Lincoln with 4 wheel discs..that way you dont need a proportioning valve. I had to make a spacer for the Booster rod to MC of about 1 inch, I just cut the old rod of the stock jeep Vacume booster and cut it down to the size I needed. I also took the end off the stock YJ brake rod where it meets the peddle and adapted it to the rod on the HB...that way your brake switch will still function as stock, otherwise thats another thing you have to solve..works like a charm..MC was like$25 at Lordco.:D

http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/img/hydroboost/hydroboost_cutopen_14.jpg

I like that picture! Time to scrounge up some info on those.

Just out of curiosity what are hydroboost units rated by? Flow? Brake multiplication? Nitrogen canister size? How do we compare one hydroboost unit to another?

I like that picture! Time to scrounge up some info on those.
Thanks, that was my 3.2 megapixel camera. The 12 can't do that...


Quick link to some good info on what pump to use:
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=951326

I have a hydroboost in my Chev as I was worried about low vacume in the current engine- best mod I ever made. It was taken off a high mileage 2500 diesal and has started to leak fluid and also allow air into the ps system. I have a seal kit on hand and am planning to reseal the unit. Haven't had it apart yet but reading the instructions and what little is on the web- how do you deal with the staked push rod...not happy about cut and welding, I understand the pushrod needs to come apart so the rear half can be disassembled.
PS on GM units I've seen lots of gold med duty HB's, but non of the blue heavy duty HB's even on 3500's.

How would the system work with the tee @ the remote reservior? The reason I is because I am adding hydroboost and already have the steering plumbed in and I would be sweet if I could put a tee on the resevior and just hook up the hydroboost return in the center of the tee. Make sense?

If you have to T it, don't interrupt the steering return, let the HB T in. The steering constantly returns, the HB only returns upon use. No need to make the steering turn the corner. I have seen Y splitters, that might be a better option.

Put the connection between the cooler and the reservoir not the HB return and the res. The cooler will see alot more fluid in the full steering return, I have seen alot of folks try it the other way.

Your pump will appreciate it.

LG

Bringing this old thread back up,,,

I have a few hydroboost questions. I know this is the Jeep section, but this is the best thread I've found on hydroboost - I have a Toyota 4Runner, with a 2lt-II diesel engine swapped in (a little 4 banger Toyota turbo diesel). It originally came with a vacuum pump piggy-backed on the alternator to power vacuum assist brakes. It died, and I got rid of the system, by running a 12v electric vacuum pump. I hated it from the start, and recently swapped on a hydroboost unit off an astro-van. I tried it with an 1 1/8" gm master, but the rest of my brakes are still stock, so the pedal was of course rock hard. I swapped the Toyota 13/16 master back on, and now my brakes 'almost' feel awesome. They act normal, no stupid vacuum pump - great system. But, my steering is now a bit squishy, and if I really want to, I can push the pedal to the floor with the engine running - it takes quite a bit of effort, but can be done. I have 31ish pretty bald tires on it right now, and it still takes a decent amount of force to lock it up, but not too bad, although I've only fully locked the back end - got a proportioning valve I need to adjust a little more, but, I would like it to be able to lock the front a little easier - I'm not sure if it even will lock the front. It seems like I can stop way sudden, but somewhere just before full lock I max the system out, and can just leg press it to the floor, but it doesn't stop the wheels any harder. When the vehicle is off I get a hard and high pedal - seems correct.

So, squishy steering, pedal which can go to the floor with force, and maybe not full strength in the system. Any ideas? Do ya'll think the hydroboost/steering needs to be bled some more? Or the brakes? Or maybe both? Or, could I maybe have a hydroboost unit which isn't fully functioning? Or, last of all, is this just how hydroboost brakes feel? Any help appreciated,

Spruce

Dear friends of the 4x4 world!

Very interesting account of the partner.
I have a 4x4 Engesa, hidrobooster with the system, since I was promptly helped by friends in this space, and now seek help again.
I have noticed that the system has defreio freiado over the rear wheels of the front wheels.
Use equalizing valve, and imparting a valve in an attempt to avoid this situation.
Have checked the cylinder, which is a measure of the "1/4, everything is ok.
Also when I trigger the brake pedal, the steering feel heavy, very dangerous brake on a curve.
What could be done or checked?

Hugs.

Kim.
__________________________________________________ ___

Caros amigos do mundo 4x4!

Muito interessante o relato do companheiro.
Tenho um 4x4 engesa, com o sistema hidrobooster, já fui prontamente ajudado pelos amigos neste espaço, e agora, busco ajuda novamente.
Tenho notado que o sistema defreio tem freiado mais as rodas traseiras do que as rodas dianteiras.
Uso válvulas equalizadoras, e uma válvula proporcionadora, na tentativa de evitar essa situação.
Já verifiquei o cilindro, que é na medida de 1"1/4, está tudo ok.
Também quando aciono o pedal do freio, sinto o volante pesado, muito perigoso freiar em uma curva.
O que poderia ser feito ou verificado?

Abraços.

Kim.
https://picasaweb.google.com/117104387613456434130/FreioEFreioDeEstacionamento
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos

Hi Kim, looks like the problem may be relate dto your prop valves (specially if your rears are breaking heavier than the fronts), have you tried re-adjusting them?


Oi Kim, Parece que o seu problema pode ser relacionado a sua proportioning valves. Vc tem certeza que as suas prop valves estao valved corretamente? Tentou reajustar ou bypass as prop valves?

Minha reconmendacao seria usar valvulaas manuais, nao outra (tipo F100 que vc esta usando)

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4Jcw5sqIbtM/TWbrbNIM9bI/AAAAAAAAH9Y/UikWUBZj7vM/s627/24022011506.jpg

Gui

Im trying to come with a steering valve for my hydroboost system on a small block chevy truggy. i want to use a double ram cylinder, not sure yet on size but im trying to be cheap about it. thank you if you can help with some info.

surplus center
not sure if you really save $ over a kit from the big names

Im trying to come with a steering valve for my hydroboost system on a small block chevy truggy. i want to use a double ram cylinder, not sure yet on size but im trying to be cheap about it. thank you if you can help with some info.

I'm sure everyone will flame me for for this... I run a char Lynn valve that came from a farm tractor salvage yard. (It has 9.7 cubic centimeters per rev output) also running a hydro boost set up from a one ton Chevy truck that had a 6.5 and my pump is a Saginaw off the same truck. A 2 1/2 1 1/2 8 inch double ended ram from surplus center. Works great and have less than 500 bucks in the whole set up. 3 1/4 turns lock to lock but a touch twitchy at higher speeds. A valve with a smaller output would be better, but I really like the quick steering on the tight trails so I won't be changing anything.