So I have read a few things that lead me to believe i will not be able to get the carrier out of the housing unless I have a spreader. Is there any way to do this work without either having a spreader on hand, taking it to a shop, or building my own? I installed the detroit in the rear 14 bolt with no problems. I have searched and found one article that showed an install, but it was for the chevy 60 and that article said nothing about a spreader.

it will come out without a spreader. if it is in truck pry it out . if the axle is out set up a jack stand and drop one end of the housing on the stand the weight of the diff and ring gear will make it fall out. are you sure you cant install the lockright with the diff in. most can.

I am just now reading some material about doing the work without pulling the carrier. I am not too familiar with the 60 stuff.

A buddy found this and I am trying to learn it....
http://www.polygoats.com/index.php?name=News&file=print&sid=42

Having the case spreader does make it easier, but it is not needed to pull the carrier.

However, even better for you, you don't need to pull the carrier to put the Lockright in there. I put on in my front 60 two years ago and did not pull the carrier. Just leave it in there man, it's not bad.

are you sure you cant install the lockright with the diff in. most can.


However, even better for you, you don't need to pull the carrier to put the Lockright in there. I put on in my front 60 two years ago and did not pull the carrier. Just leave it in there man, it's not bad.

This really all depends on how tall the gears are. If it has very low gears, the teeth may be too tall to get the cross pin out to be able to install the locker.

As for the case spreader, nope, don't need it, a set of good pry bars will even pop out a stubborn carrier. I don't think that dropping the axle to get it out is a very good idea. That is unless you provide a nice cushioned landing for the carrier.

Later,
Jason

Having the case spreader does make it easier, but it is not needed to pull the carrier.

However, even better for you, you don't need to pull the carrier to put the Lockright in there. I put on in my front 60 two years ago and did not pull the carrier. Just leave it in there man, it's not bad.


10/4, that is what I am finding out. It looks like it might be a little cramped, but overall, not having to pull the carrier might be easier in the long run.

It's hard as hell with the front, but it'll come out. I didnt have any luck at all prying on it. i took a slide hammer and kind of jerry rigged a piece of webbing around the carrier and hooked it up to the slide hammer and pulled it out that way. I wouldnt put the slide hammer right on the carrier, because it's brittle cast iron and will break pretty easily when to things like strong shocks to it.

Just stuff a shop rag in between the ring gear and pinion gear. Then rotate the yoke. It will pull the rag between the gears and push the carrier out. Just have something to cushion the fall or someone to catch it.

Its even easier if the axle is still in the truck since you can let the engine do the work.

Fuck all the drop the axle, stuff rags bullshit.
Just get two long prybars, and I am talking long, and pry the carrier and ringear out.
It works, that is how I did my 60 and I did not use a casespreader or saw the need to drop the axle to let the weight make it fall out.:shaking:
It will come out, its only in there tight because of the carrier preload.

Well I was able to get the locker installed without pulling the carrier. The only issue I am having is getting the cotter pin thing back through the center pin. I broke two punches trying to get it to slide through the carrier. I may have to drop it out after all???

Its a roll pin, and the propper tool is a roll pin punch. The roll pin will be much easier to drive in with the propper punch. If you drove it out with some other type of punch, save yourself the trouble, go buy a new roll pin and the propper punch and then try to install, it should go smooth as butter.

Later,
Jason

Its a roll pin, and the propper tool is a roll pin punch. The roll pin will be much easier to drive in with the propper punch. If you drove it out with some other type of punch, save yourself the trouble, go buy a new roll pin and the propper punch and then try to install, it should go smooth as butter.

Later,
Jason

Got it, thanks. I knew I didn't have the right punch, but thought I could get it back in without too much trouble...guess not. Looks like I am headed to 4Wheelers again today.

hey don't forget to make sure the hole is lined up before you start beating the crap out of the roll pin

Installed my lockright in my hp60 without pulling the carrier, diddo on using a roll pin punch, makes life easy.

hey don't forget to make sure the hole is lined up before you start beating the crap out of the roll pin

Yeah, it definitely helps to have it lined up. I tried all day to find the roll pin for that center pin and came up empty handed. I found one at Napa, but he didn't know if it was the right size. It was 7/32 x 1 3/4 wich translates to
.218 in diameter. Spicer says the roll pin should be between .226 and .232. So, I think I am pretty close at .218. I guess only time will tell. Thanks for the advice.

Um, probably not close enough, not if you want it to stay in place. Any R&P warehouse should be able to get you the right one, or try McMastercarr.com, it will be dirt cheap and probably to your door step in less than 2 days.

If the pin comes loose and the center pin moves, you will seriously regret it. It will shell stuff quicker in your diff than you can imagine.

Later,
Jason

Um, probably not close enough, not if you want it to stay in place. Any R&P warehouse should be able to get you the right one, or try McMastercarr.com, it will be dirt cheap and probably to your door step in less than 2 days.

If the pin comes loose and the center pin moves, you will seriously regret it. It will shell stuff quicker in your diff than you can imagine.

Later,
Jason

Yep listen to theis one. Had a rear come apart at 60 mph. When the cross pin came out far enough to hit the pinion it locked up both rear tires. When it all came to a stop it ruined the rear tires the diff and the axle housing. Very costly!

Yep listen to theis one. Had a rear come apart at 60 mph. When the cross pin came out far enough to hit the pinion it locked up both rear tires. When it all came to a stop it ruined the rear tires the diff and the axle housing. Very costly!


Damn, not what I wanted to hear. Well, it is a cheap quick fix so I will try to find the right one.