Here's my current set-up... Yes I searched :flipoff2:

'95 XJ, 4.0, AW-4, Klune V Goliath 2.7, Atlas II 3.8, soon to have a 4.56 geared HP44 and a 14 bolt.

I'm looking to possibly swap in a stick since its a bitch to stop and the AW-4 computor has no clue when to shift with all the gear reduction. Or a different auto that isn't computer controlled with a high stall.

The two stick tranny's I've been thinking of using is either a NP435 or a NV4500.

From what I've found I think a 94-95 NV4500 V-8 Dodge Ram 2500 4WD trans is the correct one to look for....

Not sure if an adapter is needed or not. Or which bellhousing to use... prefer a hyd clutch.

As for a NP435 I can get a free Ford 2WD trans and get an adapter.

Or is there a NP435 to search for with the correct input and output????

Either that or just build the shit out of my '80 TF999 I have and run a higher stall converter.

All a mater of how much coin I can round up..... :D At this point less is better since I still need some 37" Boggers and a bunch of other parts.

Normally the auto will work better on the trail when built than a manual, in almost all situations. Just most people perfer the manual transmission. and as for the higher stall.. you must have been talkin to a race car builder. you need a MUCH LOWER stall. factory is somewhere around 2200 rpm stall.. you want no more than 1200 rpm, I woudl say more like 800-900 rpm stall. that will give you MUCH better compression breaking.
So what exactally is the AW-4 doing? I am not too familar with them.. but i am familar with the 727, which is similar to the 999. I dont see why the computor has anything to do with it, my 4 runner has no clue what to do in 4 low either.. i say just a manual valve body will do it, and select the gear you want.

Originally posted by PW
Normally the auto will work better on the trail when built than a manual, in almost all situations. Just most people perfer the manual transmission. and as for the higher stall.. you must have been talkin to a race car builder. you need a MUCH LOWER stall. factory is somewhere around 2200 rpm stall.. you want no more than 1200 rpm, I woudl say more like 800-900 rpm stall. that will give you MUCH better compression breaking.
So what exactally is the AW-4 doing? I am not too familar with them.. but i am familar with the 727, which is similar to the 999. I dont see why the computor has anything to do with it, my 4 runner has no clue what to do in 4 low either.. i say just a manual valve body will do it, and select the gear you want.

With the 105 to 1 crawl ratio I have not counting converter multiplication I can hardly stop it on level ground in gear and can't stop it going downhills. After the axle swap I'll have bigger brakes which will help but I will also have more gearing(135 to 1) which in turn will make it harder to stop.

It's like driving a stick with a clutch you can't release.

Compression braking isn't a problem, it will idle down the steepest hills and such with ease. 4mph=5000rpm in 1st.

A slightly higher stall should help me stop and with my gearing it shouldn't be a problem otherwise.

The problem with the AW-4 is the fact the it lacks the ability to truly shift it manually and will rev over 6000rpm before shifting 1st to 2nd with only the atlas in low range. Then it shifts 2nd to 3rd way too fast. This is even worse in compound low. The shifting is controlled by the trans controller and it can't react fast enough to shift at the correct time.

I do prefer an auto on the trail but I need to be able to stop without having to hope I can shift to neutral fast enough.

So basically I need an auto I can manually shift. Properly set-up a hyd. shifted trans should shift at the correct rpm if left in drive also. A higher stall should help me stop it in gear.

Either that or run a stick.... then the gearing would be about 280 to 1 or so... :eek:

Btt

Looking for your opinions and input on which way you would go....

yeahi have heard that problem. I fergot what it is that will allow you to break, but i think it is the manual valvo body, and i dont think your problems are caused by the conputor, they sound like the same stuff that happens to non-computor controled trannys. I know it can be fixed, and will work perfectly, so you can stop it, but i cant quite remember how, anyone?

The problem with the computer is the fact that it controls the shift point in the 1 to 2 gear position on the shifter. I have added a 1st gear lockout switch that will force a shift to 2nd gear.
I suppose if I mount the switch on the shifter and manually shift the other gears I could live with the AW-4.

That is if the 3/4 ton Chevy 4 wheel dics brakes on the axles I'm swapping in are good enough to stop this thing in gear...

The other problem is when I do stop in gear there is so much torque applied to the suspenision it preloads it causing the jeep to raise about 2 to 3" which could get hairy if I was flexed out in bad situation.

I could probably modify the detents on the shifter and add a positive reverse lockout so I could slam it into neutral without any chance of hitting reverse.

The more I think about this the more this seems doable....:rasta: