I am working on 3 linking my 01 z71 and i have a couple of questions(yes i Searched)

1.)How to find the Sprung Mass Center of Gravity?
2.)How long should i make the lower links (Pretty much as long as i can without bind)and then the upper is supposed to be 70% of the lowers correct?
3.)Can the lower links be perpendicular to the axle or should they be triangulated?
4.)Does any one know if a 1979 bronco coil will fit into this bucket for coils up to 5.75" wide

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/adjustablecoil1.jpg

Any help will be gratefully appreciated
Bring On The Burn

I used those same coils buckets from ballistic. Just a word of advise if you are using them, run a drill through those holes to true em up and they are good to go. As far as using the bronco coil buckets, if you are on a budget they are fine, but being able to adjust those ballistic buckets has been a huge plus for me- definately worth the $60. As for your other questions i have little help to give, i kinda built my stuff to what worked for my rig

1. Go to your local weigh station and weigh the whole thing. You can call shops like PORC and Poly-Performance to get you an estimate of your axle weight, and subtract that from the total to give you unsprung weight (maybe someone's already done this and can post up their findings).

2. I just finished working on a buddy's 4 link and his lowers were about 39" (and yes uppers should be about 70% of that)...seems like most guys are not following the 70% rule, but it's whatever works. These link lengths also seem a hair short for what I see other guys running, but you'll run into other complications when you try and mount $hit under there.

3. They NEED to be triangulated to keep this thing laterally stable. Try to get the links converging at about 40 degrees (likely not completely achievable), but once again, whatever you can make work.

4. No idea, but the bracket you have pictured are sweet!

2.25x.375 dom tube should be strong enough for my links right

1. Go to your local weigh station and weigh the whole thing. You can call shops like PORC and Poly-Performance to get you an estimate of your axle weight, and subtract that from the total to give you unsprung weight (maybe someone's already done this and can post up their findings).

2. I just finished working on a buddy's 4 link and his lowers were about 39" (and yes uppers should be about 70% of that)...seems like most guys are not following the 70% rule, but it's whatever works. These link lengths also seem a hair short for what I see other guys running, but you'll run into other complications when you try and mount $hit under there.

3. They NEED to be triangulated to keep this thing laterally stable. Try to get the links converging at about 40 degrees (likely not completely achievable), but once again, whatever you can make work.

4. No idea, but the bracket you have pictured are sweet!
I don't need the unsprung mass i need the Sprung Mass Center of Gravity

to get your cog you can eather search for the correct proccess witch is quit involved and takes some time. or measure from the ground to the cam or top bellhousing bolt.

link material the .375 wall should work sine its a front application, but it still has a chance to bend since it under a heavy truck and on the 3rd link you should be able to get away with something like .250 or .188 wall.

And for triangulation it shouldn't really be needed since you run a panhard bar and that is what locates the axle from side to side.

and for length just get under the truck and start measuring and see what will fit and what won't

Updates???

Updates??? little progress.....


http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/102_1386.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/102_1377.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/102_1375.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/102_1373.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/102_1372.jpg

1. Go to your local weigh station and weigh the whole thing. You can call shops like PORC and Poly-Performance to get you an estimate of your axle weight, and subtract that from the total to give you unsprung weight (maybe someone's already done this and can post up their findings).

2. I just finished working on a buddy's 4 link and his lowers were about 39" (and yes uppers should be about 70% of that)...seems like most guys are not following the 70% rule, but it's whatever works. These link lengths also seem a hair short for what I see other guys running, but you'll run into other complications when you try and mount $hit under there.

3. They NEED to be triangulated to keep this thing laterally stable. Try to get the links converging at about 40 degrees (likely not completely achievable), but once again, whatever you can make work.

4. No idea, but the bracket you have pictured are sweet!

Why should uppers be 70% of your lowers? I prefer the uppers to be longer than the lowers, it forces the pinion to rise as the suspension droops which keeps your driveshaft much safer. The only reasons I would ever put shorter uppers on a 4 link is for packaging reasons, sometimes long uppers just don't fit.

Also on that front end, a 3 link plus panhard would likely be a better choice. Making triangulated uppers fit on a front end can be a real bitch. With the panhard suspension up front it is a lot easier to keep it low than with triangulated uppers.

Im using Ballistics upper and lower mounts with 5.5 in 05 F350 coils the Bronco coils should also work.

I wouldn't go over 40" or so with the lowers either, long links are easy to bend.

Also, I would angle them in towards the frame whether you go 4 link or 3+panhard. That will allow you to attach to the axle near the ends, further apart your links are on the axle the less bending force the axle sees. Make sure to angle them in enough to where they wont limit steering, but I wouldn't angle them in beyond the frame rails, it totally kills your roll axis angle when the lower links converge at the frame very near to eachother.

Got the tape measure out tonight and figured out where i think i want my links to go. Not to sure on the " Sprung Mass CG 'Z' " I know it effects the Anti-Squat but this is what i have so far, Let me Know what you guys think.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/3-link.jpg

Probably won't make a ton of difference, but keep in mind that if you are never going to run your tires offroad at full psi, your tires are going to be smaller than 38.5". Shouldn't change the calculations too much, but it will help accuracy.

would it make a ton more difference if those tires only measured 37 1/2 inches when mounted and full of air?

Doubt it, but I've seen some guys air down and lose more than just 1" of tire height.

Well on the 3-link calc i think the tire diameter only draws the tire on the plot, it doesn't effect the numbers.

Only reason I mentioned it is because I thought I remember fiddling with the tire diameter number and it changes some of the other outputs.

Got a couple of things done this weekend. Got the coils hung and brackets welded to the axle, also made the frame mounts for my lower links. anyways on with the pictures.
Fender Height

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/102_1636.jpg


Sitting Close to ride height Looks to high for the tire might lower it down

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/102_1635.jpg


http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/102_1633.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/102_1632.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/102_1629.jpg

Got the tape measure out tonight and figured out where i think i want my links to go. Not to sure on the " Sprung Mass CG 'Z' " I know it effects the Anti-Squat but this is what i have so far, Let me Know what you guys think.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/3-link.jpg
It may or may not make a difference. But isnt this calculator for Rear suspension? Does it matter? I am using it for my front suspension too.

This is my build I recently completed, similar to your own. The pictures posted are only a few of what I wanted to post, due to repeated attempts to resize for pirate to accept.

A few more...

39.5 Super Swamper TSL, beadlock 16.5 wheels, D60 front, long arm y-link on 8 inch lift rancho F350 coils, ( 35 spline stubs and warn hubs, 5.38 gears), 14 bolt rear (4 link, detroit locker, TJ front coils). In cab rear proportioning brake valve. Hydro assist, Redneck Ram tapped box with 2.75 ram with ROYAL PURPLE synthetic, filter kit and cooler.

I noticed you went with the F350 coils also. They make for great road driving, keeping the body roll out. They are so stiff they do not allow for flex, this will have to be changed on my setup. I origionally had the cage, bronco coils, but after putting the weight of the truck on them the coils were basically overloaded.

Well any updates? How did it turn out?

Turned out good so far i just put the 14 Bolt in the rear. I still need to do brakes on it and get the d-shaft hooked up. i still don't have a drive shaft for the front, and every once in a while the front makes a loud clunk that i can't figure out what it is. also i need to do a little trimming on my bumper up front but other then that no problems


http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/100_1749.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/100_1748.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/100_1746.jpg

Any pictures of the links?

Did you use the Ballistic flat bottom link/coil mounts on the axle? Looks really good. :smokin:

yea i used the flat bottoms
Zero Clearence between upper and exaust at bump
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/100_1741.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/102_1730.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/102_1734.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/102_1729.jpg

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f120/Chevyboy322/102_1728.jpg

Build looks good.I have 2 1/2 inch 7/16 wall in the rear (if that matters)and have bent that, so good luck.Since nobody has asked, what are the 4 pipes for in the frt bumper?

4 poles = surf fishing

nice build man, everybody should be linked, get any action shots yet?

na not yet i still need to get the lockers installed and new gears setup

It may or may not make a difference. But isnt this calculator for Rear suspension? Does it matter? I am using it for my front suspension too.

ya i would think it would matter alot... i mean your main concern is to have a constant caster angle... none of the launch characterists apply to a front suspension unless your launching in reverse.