I know you have to move one body mount, but the defroster mount to the YJ dash not the cowl like a CJ so what did you guys do. I'm going to run a Heatercraft for the heater just need a little help. Thanks Ken

Look for posts by Eric Ruhl. He has gone CJ frame and Wrangler tub, and now wrangler tub and frame.

I looked but no info I can PM Eric my boss ( Steve N ) knows him just havent seen Eric in here for a while is he still around?

Yeah I'm still around, just more of a lurker these days :)

There are actually four mounts that you'll need to address... the two in front of the rear axle and the two behind. If I recall correctly the hole is there for the two in front, just no nut.

Anyway, your question was about the defroster. There are two options... keep the CJ routing or go with the YJ setup. The most common route is to just cut the CJ defroster holes in the top of the YJ tub and call it good. If you're using a CJ dash and windshield frame then I'd recommend staying with the CJ setup. I ended up with a YJ tub and windshield frame and I didn't want to hack up both of them to get defrosters. So, I took the other route and cut the holes in the CJ dash where the YJ holes would be. I then scalloped the back of the CJ dash pad to redirect the air at the windshield. This worked surprisingly well, but after a couple years the heat really took a toll on the foam dash pad. I've since replaced it with a YJ dash pad which of course has the integrated defroster duct work. This took some trimming of the pad at the ends because they'd interfere with the CJ dash bar and glove box. This isn't the cleanest approach because the YJ pad is normally attached to the YJ dash which covers the mounting screws. I figure I can come up with something using a strip of stainless to make that cleaner looking, but to be honest I don't really care what it looks like :D Fwiw when the full cage goes in there'll be a cross bar that should hide this part fairly well. The trimmed ends are another story though, I'm not sure how best to clean that up. What I might try next is getting a new CJ dash pad and then transplaning the defroster guts from the YJ pad to the CJ pad. For now though it works great :D Again, if you have a CJ windshield then all you need are the two holes in the top of the tub cowl and you're done. Since you know Steve, he has my number so just gimme a call sometime if you wanna talk about this stuff. :beer:

There are a couple other issues too btw, like fuel filler location, possibly trans tunnel cover (my 77 CJ one was too small for it anyway) and the windshield/dash tie-downs may be off a bit. I think that's it, been a while since I did that swap.

Thanks Eric the tie-down is no prob Im running my CJ frt clip and the gas filler no prob Im runnin avalanche corners and rocker knockers so I have to cut the filler out anyway. If you dont mind I will give you a call for more info

Eric summed it up pretty well. On the body mounts, the rear mounts on the crossmember simply need to be ovaled out, or if you are replacing the stock one relocated to a differnt position on the new crossmember, assuming you didn't use a stock replacement. The one in front of the rear tires can be used if you fish a nut, or you can relocate the brackets.

The windshield tie-ins are not a big deal. Use the stock plates, simply redrill the hole in the plate and coutersink. I used a CJ tailgate and this when on in a snap. Check my website for more info on this one. (See the WWW button below :D)

see ken if you have to move 4 body mounts you might as well move em up while your at it:D