Well this sucks the big one. Less than a month before I drop $1300 on the Jeep, something goes screwy with the clutch. Here's the dealio:

Last time I drove it, I had no problems. This was around 4:00pm. I go out around 8:30pm to go meet some friends. Start her up, put it in reverse and it felt like the clutch caught really quick. I think nothing of it, assuming I was just being weird. I get out of the driveway, put it in first, let off the clutch a little (to the point where it should just barely start catching) and it catches 100% and I stall out. I restart, pump the clutch, and we're good to go.
I had no problems driving for a while. Then I come home. As soon as I got to the bottom of my driveway around 9:30, same thing happens. I stall it out but this time, I left the clutch in. I couldn't get it out of first gear, and when I would start it up, it would rumble really low, as if it was close to stalling out.
It seems to me like every now and then, the clutch pedal's "catch" point drops an inch or so.

Has anyone had this problem or know of a possible fix? I REALLY hope it isn't a big expense, because I have $4000 to last me all winter and I am dropping $1300 on the 8th of next month, probably another $100 for some other parts I need (seriously, I need them to pass inspection) and I need some for gas all winter.

Go ahead...give me your advice oh noble ones!:D

i guess you checked the clutch master fluid level already right? ok so it's full. do you have an external or internal slave? do you see any sign of fluid leaks? how old is the existing clutch? throwout bearing may be going south or the slave cylinder. may have air in the line which you MIGHT be able to bleed if external slave with a bleed fitting, you'll have to check.

I am no expert in clutches by any means. Not even a beginner. But To me it looks like a Hydraulic fluid (pressure) problem. Specially since you have to pump to get it going.

I assume you checked the fluid in the slave cylinder. I also know what ass u me can intell.:D

:shaking:I assume you checked the fluid in the slave cylinder. I also know what ass u me can intell.:D

Yeah I know on this site that was just asking for it.

I am making some assumptions based on your website.
you have a ax-5 transmission.
It will shift fine when not running
It has the most trouble at start/stop and first/reverse

A few items you can check
1) fluid level (not just that it has fluid, but it is at the correct level)
2) if a little low check around the master cylinder for a leak, both sided of the firewall. It will appear oily
If you find this, replace the mastercyclinder
3) check the line for any leak from master cyclinder to slave
If it is leaking replace the line
4) check that the master cyclinder is not moving when you step on the clutch.
If it is you will have to fab a new bracket
5) Is there a chance that you had it in deep water and let it set for a few days? If so, you may have to losen the clutch, which is hard on things. This is basically reving the engine and dropping the clutch. (This is really rare to have the rust that causes this problem) Basically the clutch, tranny have to be cold in the water and then set for a period to allow the rust to form.
6) We will rule out a bad clutch, because it is sticking rather than not holding. So the next step is to pull the transmission and check the slave cyclinder. I assume you have an internal slave cyclinder. I don't know if the ax-5 is internal or not and if it depends on the year.

Hopefully one of these items should solve your problem.

check around the master cylinder for a leak, both sided of the firewall. It will appear oily
If you find this, replace the mastercyclinder

Wow, thanks alot for the whole list. I looked last night better at it, and sure enough, I had what looks like a wet spot on the mud below where it goes into the firewall. :( Not much really, just about a foot long spot and it was drying when I finally got around to actually looking (about 30-45 minutes after driving) So, from what you are saying, I need to replace the master cylinder. I am no auto mechanic, but just a couple questions before diving into this more...

You think me and my pops could do this? Neither of us know too much about this stuff, so it will be new for both of us.
If I do have to have the master cylinder replaced, what would you recomend I get? Is there a "hardcore x-treme offroad" master cylinder out there, or are they all the same?
How much $$$ are we looking at?
I drove it to school and back today, and to two different football games and back with no problems. Could it have just been a fluke or will it catch up with me and get worse?

That's pretty much it. Thanks again guys.

Wow, thanks alot for the whole list. I looked last night better at it, and sure enough, I had what looks like a wet spot on the mud below where it goes into the firewall. :( Not much really, just about a foot long spot and it was drying when I finally got around to actually looking (about 30-45 minutes after driving) So, from what you are saying, I need to replace the master cylinder. I am no auto mechanic, but just a couple questions before diving into this more...

You think me and my pops could do this? Neither of us know too much about this stuff, so it will be new for both of us.
If I do have to have the master cylinder replaced, what would you recomend I get? Is there a "hardcore x-treme offroad" master cylinder out there, or are they all the same?
How much $$$ are we looking at?
I drove it to school and back today, and to two different football games and back with no problems. Could it have just been a fluke or will it catch up with me and get worse?

That's pretty much it. Thanks again guys.

Answered in the order you ask.
1) It is not hard to do with basic hand tools. box/open end wrenches, socket set is even easier. Basic pliers and screw drivers/punch or awl.
2) Unless you plan on going to the drag strip, and you plan on changing alot of other things. (Pressure plate, maybe twin clutch, slave cyclinder, etc)you don't need more
3) I paid about $80 for my last one at O'Rieleys about 1 1/2 years ago.
4) I drove with mine going out for about 6 months. It had spells. It was worse in colder temps. Toward the end it got really bad. Hard to start in gear and had to turn the engine off at stop lights because I couldn't get it out of gear because clutch would disengage. I also ended up having to replace the clutch (this is a much bigger job).

I actually went through this same problem not even a month ago. It's amazing reading what you put up, and when it happened to me, I went and asked a couple guys in my club about it.

I used to work at a place with a mechanic shop next door, and I asked him to take a look and he gave me the complete wrong diagnosis. He said it was the internal slave, and that would have been a bitch and a half to do.

All it is the Master Slave.

What happens is that when you first press it, you get the pressure, and then since it's shot, it slowly leaks back around the seal, making it feel like jumping from 0% to 100% with no inbetween.

It's a fairly quick fix. Go to Autozone, pick up the part cheap with a lifetime warrenty, and then install. Basic tools and a little time.

Only really difficult part is bleeding the lines of air, which it's helpful to have two people.


I won't say I did this by myself, I had help from someone much more knowledgable than I, but it's something I would not be afraid of tackling in the future.

I actually went through this same problem not even a month ago. It's amazing reading what you put up, and when it happened to me, I went and asked a couple guys in my club about it.

I used to work at a place with a mechanic shop next door, and I asked him to take a look and he gave me the complete wrong diagnosis. He said it was the internal slave, and that would have been a bitch and a half to do.

All it is the Master Slave.

What happens is that when you first press it, you get the pressure, and then since it's shot, it slowly leaks back around the seal, making it feel like jumping from 0% to 100% with no inbetween.

It's a fairly quick fix. Go to Autozone, pick up the part cheap with a lifetime warrenty, and then install. Basic tools and a little time.

Only really difficult part is bleeding the lines of air, which it's helpful to have two people.


I won't say I did this by myself, I had help from someone much more knowledgable than I, but it's something I would not be afraid of tackling in the future.

Awesome deal. Sounds like you went through the EXACT same crap I did. It hasn't happened since that one night, but it freaked me out enough to want to fix it. I'll see what I can do and maybe take some pictures and stuff. Thanks!

Yeah, it only happened once in a great while for me at first. I pretty much ignored it, I didn't have the time/money to go messing around because the Jeep worked fine most of the time.

Then one day it decided to be angry at me, and it acted like that forever more until I replaced it. I literally drove it just to and from work from 0 to GO for a couple days before I could fix it as well.

I'd get this done sooner rather than later, because it's going to get worse, and you really don't want to have that happen (esp. in traffic.)