Thanks guys for the tips on yanking my engine. I pulled it as a unit and was surprised that from the time I started pulling off the grill to the whole deal hanging on a hook was a little over 5 hours. I used a engine leveler, attaching the rear bolts to the 2 wings on the 727, and the front to a couple of bolts on the front of the heads.
Now though it just keeps getting bigger. I wasn't going to rewire for a couple of years and I just can't put this together without rewiring.

Thinking about Centec or Painless, what have you guys used?

Originally posted by ChiScouter
what have you guys used?

A couple rolls of wire, a couple boxes of terminals and a soldering iron

:D

I'm planning on going the Centech route

I like their prices compared to Painless :D

Originally posted by cornfedred


A couple rolls of wire, a couple boxes of terminals and a soldering iron

:D

I agree...don't waste the cash...it is not like it is an ECU controlled MPI...pretty straight forward. Sack up and pull wire :flipoff2: :flipoff2: just make sure to bypass the bulkhead connectors for anything you depend on.

Personally I like what I see of the Painless kit. The terminal block is nice and clean. You could go the yard and cut out a terminal block to save some cash.

I'm still looking for a quality replacement to the bulk head connectors. I like the option of disconnecting the harnesses at the fire wall. Makes maintenance easier.

Joe

Dam Is it wiring week? There is three guys doing the exact same mod! Two on POR and one on the BB. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Originally posted by jdjanda
Personally I like what I see of the Painless kit. The terminal block is nice and clean. You could go the yard and cut out a terminal block to save some cash.

I used the painless block only cost me ~$50.00 :D for the 12 circuit block, then I pulled my own wire from the block.

I'm still looking for a quality replacement to the bulk head connectors. I like the option of disconnecting the harnesses at the fire wall. Makes maintenance easier.

I went with the post style conectors for the big stuff, ignition,starter and alternator. Radio Shack sells nylon plugs that will hold up to 12 wires. I used them inside the firewall for everything else. Not the greatest option but it was the only thing I could find that would let me quickly disconnect the engine harness from the firewall. And at leat they never bounce out like the stock BHCs....

Originally posted by troutbum


I went with the post style conectors for the big stuff, ignition,starter and alternator. Radio Shack sells nylon plugs that will hold up to 12 wires. I used them inside the firewall for everything else. Not the greatest option but it was the only thing I could find that would let me quickly disconnect the engine harness from the firewall. And at leat they never bounce out like the stock BHCs....

The RS kits are Molex connectors. They work very well for internal cab connections, but as you know they are not water tight. I have used the Painless water tight connectors and they work well but are expensive and I think Painless dropped them.

Both of the connectors require the use of special crimpers to work best. I have a top of the line crimper, cost over $100, but makes the job easy and professional looking.

Joe