: Adjustable Control Arms Question


JParuBob
06-17-2002, 09:30 PM
Okay, so I'm looking into getting some adjustable LCAs so that I can rotate the rear pinion and get rid of the crappy t-case lowering kit... But, I have some questions... I tried using the search, but couldn't come up with anything useful...

My main concern is that if I do that, the coil springs (it's on a 97 TJ with 4 inch lift, SYE, and CV driveshaft) will basically like bow out and pop out... And basically I'd like to avoid that... Am I correct in what it will do?? basically, i don't want the spring doing this number ) and goin flyin... like I said, I already used the search, and that didn't turn up anything so :flipoff2: to anyone who flames me and tells me I'm a dumb newbie... hehe

JParuBob

cmk
06-17-2002, 09:45 PM
Like ... basically ... cut off the lower spring buckets and reweld them to work with the new pinion angle ... basically like.

cmk

JParuBob
06-17-2002, 10:13 PM
okay, so i noticed afterwords that I used the word "like" a little too much... Thanks for confirming the only other idea that I had about what I should do...

Now, should I just cut off all the brackets and replace them all? Or should I only replace the spring cups and shock mounts? I would assume that the LCA mounts would be fine since the LCAs will be adjustble, but should I replace the UCA mounts?? Or just get adjustable UCAs?


JParuBob

crawlinTJ
06-17-2002, 10:17 PM
If you already have the SYE/CV driveshaft then:

1) You should have already rotated the pinion up to point at the rear output of the t-case.

2) With only 4" of lift, SYE/CV the t-case drop shouldn't be needed anyways.

Your not (ok well shouldn't) going to be able to rotate the pinion up far enough to make the rear spring fall out because

1) The upper bumpstop should be at least 5" (give or take) from the top of the coil, preventing it from "bowing" out.

2) If you rotated it that much, the pinion would most likely be WAY to high anyways.

But, building a coil spring retainer for a few bucks would be the solution to the flyin' coil syndrome, which would/should only happen (if it ever does) at full droop on one side. It's not that's it never happened before, but it doesn't happen to everyone all the time.

Or you could go SOA in the rear and not have to worry about it. :D

And the reason you really didn't find much in the search is (my guess) no one here would really ask that question.

JParuBob
06-17-2002, 10:21 PM
I also figured that no one here would ask that question... I thought I'd ask it here because someone knowledgable might answer it... Instead of at like JU where they are more worried about how has the most poser-ific pic...

I didn't think about checking the angle that they pinion is currently at... I'll admit that I bought the jeep the way it is, and I've only had it a little under 2 months... I haven't checked out too much on it yet, and I'm definitely trying to learn as much as I can...

I'll check out the pinion angle as it is right now... I know for sure that it has a t-case lowering kit, and I definitely want to get rid of it as it looks like crap with it...

JParuBob

crawlinTJ
06-17-2002, 10:29 PM
You are far from needing to replace any of the mounts or the coil buckets. The best thing to do start with (where most TJ's start with anyways) is a set of upper and lower adjustable control arms. I've had good luck with both Tera's and RE's. Everyone you talk too is most likely biased to one or the other. But I have run both, and needless to say, you can't tell a difference. You have to retain as much of the stock geometry as possible, if you want the suspension to articulate properly. Moving coil and control arm mounts for only 4" of lift is pretty pointless, when using adjustable control arms will do the job more than sufficiently.

JParuBob
06-17-2002, 10:41 PM
now that's the kind of sheyot i'm talkin about... Actual information that helps me. Thank you very much... I'm trying to properly plan on doing mods, as I don't want to get in over my head before I know it...

JParuBob

moveaside
06-18-2002, 05:44 PM
IF YOUR REALLY CONCERNED ABOUT THE WHOLE COILS POPPING OUT ISSUE THEY SELL THE RETAINERS AT ANY JEEP DEALERSHIP OR SERIOUS PARTS SUPPLIER BUY THEM PUT THEM IN AND THEN YOU'LL FEEL ALL WARM AND FUZZY INSIDE DRIVING THE TRAIL KNOWING POPPING COILS IS LESS OF A WORRY. MOST TJ'S ARE SOLD WITH THESE MISSING FOR SOME REASON. SOUNDS LIKE YOU GOT THE TERAFLEX LIFT THEY MENTION THIS PROBLEM IN THE INSTRUCTIONS. PERSONALLY I WOULDN'T WORRY ABOUT IT I GOT MY AXLES FLEXING SO FAR THIS WEEKEND THE COIL MADE A PING SOUND WHEN IT WAS RESEATING BUT IT NEVER CAME OUT

JParuBob
06-18-2002, 08:02 PM
http://community.webshots.com/photo/41132685/41132880tOdMgB

there is a photo of the axle/ds/tcase as it currently is... it looks like the pinion is rotated up already... i checked out the front driveshaft too, but it looks like it might hit the factory skid if i took the lowering kit out... so, I'm thinking if i took the kit out, it'd be fine... anyone else have an opinion on that??

JParuBob

Rockchuck
06-18-2002, 09:57 PM
your shock "should" stop the spring from "poping out"
i've got 00 tj 6" skyjacker and had my rear sprind curved from the pinion angle. It was fine. Flex the front, if it hits bend the skid or notch it. PM me if you have any more ?'s :smokin:

JParuBob
06-19-2002, 08:54 AM
the rear spring curve was my main concern... and as far as the skid goes for the front, knockin a notch in it was another idea that i had had also... thanks for the help everyone.

JParuBob