I know I've seen it before but I did every search I could think of and came up with nothing. So could anyone who has made a homemade D30 cable disconnect send me the info, I don't think $200 is worth it for the POSI 4x4. Thanks

Jeremy

I have never built a cable locker but I did build a stand alone vacuum switch that worked very well when I was still running the stock front end with welded spider gears. This is wahat you need to do. Go down to your local truck shop (petrbuilt, freightliner, mac) and get a air toggle switch. they will have something in stock because they use them for everything from window controls to seat controls to diff locks. The perfect one to get needs to be a reversing switch or a 3 position. Now disconnect the vacuum plug on top of you t-case and pull all the lines out of it. Find the one that has vacuum all the time with the engine running. This is what you will hook up to the switch as if it was the main air. The other two you will just have to play with to figure out which one engages or disengages the disconnect. If you only got a on/off switch then you will need to pull the disconnect apart and find a spring to put over the shaft somewhere so that when you turn the vacuum off it will pull the slider back out automaticly. Then mount the switch and go play.

better idea get axles from a tj and get rid of the thing all together. You get beigger ujoints and less parts to replace. <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

he's got a good point.

Originally posted by mudpuppy:
<STRONG>better idea get axles from a tj and get rid of the thing all together. You get beigger ujoints and less parts to replace. <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

You tell um Rick. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> TJ= Tough Jeep! <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

I'm not going to waste any money on a TJ D30 axle. I'm saving for fullsize axles and 38's but would like to get WHAT I ALREADY HAVE set up and locked until I can afford the bigger axles. So please no more crap about TJ axles.

Just finished mine today. I got a lockout cable handle assembly from an industrial liquidator that had a cable housing with it. I mounted the cable ran it to the vaccum housing and drilled and tapped a hole under the solenoid for the light and screwed in the housing. Then drilled a hole for the cable in the shifter arm. lined a spring up between the cable housing hole and the shifter arm hole. Than ran the cable through the spring and out the other side of the shifter arm. Pulled the cable tight and put on a small cable crimp, Then cut off the excess. Then you have to pry the two vacuum motor halves apart and cut the rubber disk out to disengage the motor so the shifter arm will slide freelly. Then put the halves back together, and the vacuum system back together. Pull up on the handle and lockout for the coller to slide over the two shafts. Release the lockout to allow the spring to push it backoff to the 2wd position. Sorry but i dont have a digital cam, but am setting up a friend who has a cam in a couple weeks. But once you look at it, it is pretty easy.

Rig the thing to be engaged at all times, there are a couple way to do it.
1. Put in 4WD, pull the vacuum lines off of the diaphragm, then cap the valves.
2. Pull the motor, pack the shaft with washers and pull the vacuum lines.
3. Pll the motor and make a plate to cover the hole. Replace the two shafts with one from a Select-Trac XJ of the same year. The 242's had a didn't have a disco D30.

I just bought a PosiLok on a group buy for $164. I know of one for sale for $150, I don't think it's sold yet. If you're locked up front a manual disconnect is nice because you can have 2WD Low for whatever that's worth.

Originally posted by bullfrog:
<STRONG>I know I've seen it before but I did every search I could think of and came up with nothing. So could anyone who has made a homemade D30 cable disconnect send me the info, I don't think $200 is worth it for the POSI 4x4. Thanks

Jeremy</STRONG> <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> Search harder, (try using "disconnect" or something like that)... its been posted many times.....

Originally posted by erikrs301:
<STRONG>I just bought a PosiLok on a group buy for $164. I know of one for sale for $150, I don't think it's sold yet. If you're locked up front a manual disconnect is nice because you can have 2WD Low for whatever that's worth.</STRONG>

I am very interseted in a posi-lock for that price. please email me and tell me how i can get one.

dnorton@utk.edu

blatent flame...
<font size=5>nice signature</font s> does JU know that you're using it here??? <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
Originally posted by TheLakeRat:
<STRONG>Matt Hodges, Owner/HNIC
West Texas 4Wheel & Offroad
915-651-5010 or thelakerat@aol.com
6305 US Hwy 277 S.
San Angelo, Tx. 76904
www.westtexasoffroad.com (http://www.westtexasoffroad.com)

91 Wrangler,L98 350 with TBI,TH700,D300,twin stick,on board air,Hydro assist steering,SOA on 2" springs with shackle reversal front, 1/4 elipticle rear, D44 with lockright front, shaved D60R with detroit rear, Big Dog roll cage, Warn 12000 winch,38.5 SX's on 15x10 MRT bead locks, 4 girlfriends,2 miracles,3 acts of congress and lots of thrown tools
</STRONG>

[ 10-22-2001: Message edited by: HighHooder ]

I already have mine rigged full time connected until I get a disconnect. All I did as pull off the disconnect, slide the collar over, switch the fork around and put it back in place. Never had a problem, except the 4x4 light on the dash doesn't come on since the shaft connected to the fork no longer moves to push the button. But since I want to lock the front end I would like to have the option to disconnect the axle for turning. And I did try searching under "disconnect, d30 disconnect, dana 30 disconnect, axle disconnect, lincoln lock dana 30," and others with out luck. I know it has been posted many times before and I am looking for those posts now. If you know where they are please help a fellow jeep owner out. Thanks

Jeremy

Just convert your disco axle to non-disco. All its takes is a non-disco shaft out of either a TJ, ZJ or a non-disco XJ axle.

The hardest part of this convertion is buying a seal that goes in the diff on the long side and grinding hole so that the seal fits. This will take pulling the carrier out and using a die grinder to make the hole bigger until the seal will go in nice and suggly. It will probably take about 4 hours or so to grind the hole out.

After you put the seal in and put it back together, slide your nondisco shaft shaft back in and no more messing with vacuum disconnect crap and no need for a cable deal.

Here is a pic of the disco 30, you'll have to grind the edge of this to get the nondisco axle seal to fit in there.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=241709&a=11583254&p=41009533&Sequence=0&res=high

mac 'pictures clarify my ramblings' gyvr