I want to start reloading 308 in my Dillion 550B. I want to shoot my FAL without crying over spent rounds.

Which dies do people recomend? I see RCBS carbide for sale used all over but want to be sure that isn't because they are changing over to Dillion for some reason.

I have yet to reload rifle components so I'd love to hear any suggestions you all have from your own experiences to save on my learning curve.

Anyone got advice or a set of 308 dies they are not using ;)

Carbide dies are a little more durable no matter what size you get. Actually, they just have a carbide ring in the resizing die that holds up longer without wearing or scratching. I've got quite a few brands of dies from Dillon to Lee and they all do the job. The Lee's are probably the least expensive but I haven't found any difference in the quality of rounds through them and my Reddings, Dillons, or Lymans. I think good prep is more important than the brand of dies. On some rounds, I prefer a taper crimp instead of a roll crimp, but other than that, the brand doesn't matter to me.

If you are going to be doing some experimenting with different bullet lengths/gr/etc - the Forester micrometer die is truely a piece of art.

If you are going to be doing some experimenting with different bullet lengths/gr/etc - the Forester micrometer die is truely a piece of art.

More info please. I'm in nearly the same boat as he is minus the FAL.

Ive got a real mixed bag including mebee a few brands some folks havent run into because of vintage. To list, Hornady, RCBS, Pacific, Lyman, Lee, Lochmiller, CH, Marble and Herters...

By far about the best inexpensive ones I use are the RCBS, but then inexpensive is a relative term and it can depend on what the final game plan is for the rounds. Hunting, reasonably accurate targets require a good quality die set. Long range competition is a whole 'nother matter... ;)


D.

More info please. I'm in nearly the same boat as he is minus the FAL.


It is a beefy die with marked increments that you can record once you get a certain OAL in a particular bullet firgured out. I use this with my bolt gun as the Berger VLD's like to be seated deep into the throat(touching rifleing). Other rounds are not safe to do this with. Since you guys have mags and feeding issues - you will probably want to set a few different lengths and make it repeatable when loading various rounds. This just makes it so much easier.

More info please. I'm in nearly the same boat as he is minus the FAL.


Well, get busy :flipoff2:

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I'll look at the forester dies to see if that is the way to go but for my uses it will not be for precision bench shooting or long distance work. Well, unless I end up with a bolt action with a scope at some point. :D Long distance is a little challenging in NC. Trees and hills everywhere.

Mostly Mil surp equipment against man sized targets offhand. I want to reload this so I can shoot it as much as I want without feeling too guilty.

My experience with reloading has been for 45 ACP so I know I have a learing curve in front of me with necked cases, triming, lube, and all that.

Any need for a seperate crimp die? That was a reason suggested for Dillion dies when I was setting up or 45.

Redding, Forster, RCBS are all good die`s. Stay away from Lee rifle sets, the quality isn`t there. True "Carbide", die sets aren`t applicable to rifle cases, only strait sided handgun cartridges. You can get rifle die sets that have a carbide expander button on the de-priming stem instead of a steel button which eliminates the need to lubricate the inside of the case neck when re-sizing. Even still, inside the neck lubrication helps minimize neck stretch when re-sizing. This is why you need to re-size BEFORE trimming the cases to proper length. I`m partial to Redding die`s, with Forster a close second and RCBS last. The quality, fit, and finish of Redding die`s is without peer. What you need to do is buy an RCBS .308 case micrometer and a set of Redding die`s. Measure a fired case from whatever rifle your reloading for and adjust your sizing die to set the case shoulder back 2-3 thousanths. This allows minimal working of your brass yet is enough to ensure reliable functioning.

If you are going to be doing some experimenting with different bullet lengths/gr/etc - the Forester micrometer die is truely a piece of art.

X2
Exellent micrometer bullet seaters are available from Redding and RCBS also. I have examples from all three manufacturers. Since you mentioned them I`ll explian their use. It is commonly known that MOST often best cartridge accuracy is achived when the particular bullet being used is seated as close to the rifling in the barrel as possible. This minimizes the amount of jump the bullet has to make from the case before it engages the rifling. That keeps the bullet as concentric as possible to start it down the barrel, which equates to best accuracy. What you have to remember is that when you seat bullets closer to the rifling, the chamber pressure rises accordingly. That means you need to work out your most accurate overall length FIRST, and then adjust velocitys to where you want them. Very often the two won`t coinside where you want so it can be a trade off. Using a micrometer bullet seater for loading amunition to be used in a military rifle generaly is a waste of time. Most all military rifles have longer chamber throats, and usually by the time you get the bullet seated to reach the rifling, the cartridge no longer fits in the magazine. You can still use the micro seater if you load rounds singularly in the chamber, but that really defeats the purpose of semi-auto.

I was rooting around in my stuff to find my RCBS .308 micrometer to get you the part number. It`s an RCBS Precision micrometer for .308, part # 88329. In the process I found I have 4 .308 die sets that included a set of brand new, never used, Hornady Dura-chrome die`s that I had forgotten about. I don`t even know if Hornady still makes die`s, because I got these along with a set in .223 in trade at a gun show over 25 yrs. ago. :laughing: Anyway the die`s are at least as good as RCBS in quality, and if you want them pm your addy. Go find that RCBS .308 mic and your set. :beer:

Also, I don`t crimp any rifle cartridges. IMHO it`s not needed.

Any need for a seperate crimp die? That was a reason suggested for Dillion dies when I was setting up or 45.

If you are going to crimp something, a separate crimp die will get you a little better accuracy (a lot in some cases) because it causes less scarring or distortion to the bullet. Normally, the crimping feature is part of the bullet seating die. If you use it like this, you're pressing the bullet in and squeezing the case mouth against it at the same time. This can cause a minute amount of scarring on the bullet. For SHTF or hunting ammo for normal distances, it doesnt make much of a shit. For long range stuff, it's more important.

If you are going to crimp something, a separate crimp die will get you a little better accuracy (a lot in some cases) because it causes less scarring or distortion to the bullet. Normally, the crimping feature is part of the bullet seating die. If you use it like this, you're pressing the bullet in and squeezing the case mouth against it at the same time. This can cause a minute amount of scarring on the bullet. For SHTF or hunting ammo for normal distances, it doesnt make much of a shit. For long range stuff, it's more important.

Your statement isn`t quite accurate.
Crimping ammunition has very little to do with accuracy, and more to do with consistancy and reliability. In reloading, consistancy=accuracy. The more consistant you are prepareing ammunition the more accurate it will be. Every step in preperation has to be the same from cartidge to cartridge. Every cartridge must be :

1) resized to the same dimension
2) trimmed to the same length
3) re-primed to a consistant depth in the primer pocket
4) charging the case with a consistant weight of powder which means +/- 1/10 of a grain for general purpose, and down to 0 tolerance for precision shooting.
5) bullets seated to a consistant overall length that have the same tension at the neck of the case.

Even these 5 steps are a broad view of preperation. I left out 4 other steps in case preperation that apply more to precision shooting.

If you examine projectiles (bullets), in general you`ll find two different groups. One group has a cannalure (a groove thats generaly knurled on copper jacketed bullets, and simply an indentation on cast lead), and another group that has no cannalure or indentations. You`ll find that most (not all), bullets produced for use in personal defense and hunting cartidges have cannalures/crimp grooves. Bullets intended for precision shooting do not. Thats because in the world of precision shooting any deformation of the projectile is a big no-no. Precision shooters rely on consistant case neck tension to aid in accuracy. Case necks are turned with hand tools so they have the same outside thickness their entire circumference for concentricity, and trimmed to the same length so they have a consistant grip on the bullet. Then the necks are re-sized with precision (neck only), re-sizers. The neck sizers used by precision shooters often employ the use of precision bushings of differing sizes to adjust case neck tension. NO crimping involved at all. Personal defense/hunting ammunition is entirely different. Not all, but most of these bullets have cannalures/crimp grooves provided to hold the bullet it place during recoil. Recoil WILL pull a bullet from it`s case, I`ve seen it happen in bolt rifles and revolvers the most, but it does occure in semi-auto rifles and handguns and lever actions as well. A firm crimp in the bullet will prevent that. In the past alot of factory ammunition intended for semi-auto handguns was provided with a cannalure in the brass case directly behind the end or the bullet. That cannalure is provided for the specific purpose of preventing the bullet from being driven back into the case during the feed cycle. The force of the cartridge being driven past the feed ramp on the barrel can push the bullet back against the powder raising chamber pressure to Ka-Boom proportions. So in short the crimping step in re/handloading has little to do with accuracy.

...I don`t even know if Hornady still makes die`s, because I got these along with a set in .223 in trade at a gun show over 25 yrs. ago. :laughing:...

believe this URL might answer yer Q... ;) :D

https://www.hornady.com/shop/?ps_session=4ae0b02e517e1d338c6002b19c9852ff&page=shop%2Fbrowse&category_id=282830cff54808ebd6d9e1dabf8fd2cf

D.

Your statement isn`t quite accurate.
Crimping ammunition has very little to do with accuracy, and more to do with consistancy and reliability. In reloading, consistancy=accuracy. The more consistant you are prepareing ammunition the more accurate it will be. Every step in preperation has to be the same from cartidge to cartridge. Every cartridge must be :

1) resized to the same dimension
2) trimmed to the same length
3) re-primed to a consistant depth in the primer pocket
4) charging the case with a consistant weight of powder which means +/- 1/10 of a grain for general purpose, and down to 0 tolerance for precision shooting.
5) bullets seated to a consistant overall length that have the same tension at the neck of the case.

Even these 5 steps are a broad view of preperation. I left out 4 other steps in case preperation that apply more to precision shooting.

If you examine projectiles (bullets), in general you`ll find two different groups. One group has a cannalure (a groove thats generaly knurled on copper jacketed bullets, and simply an indentation on cast lead), and another group that has no cannalure or indentations. You`ll find that most (not all), bullets produced for use in personal defense and hunting cartidges have cannalures/crimp grooves. Bullets intended for precision shooting do not. Thats because in the world of precision shooting any deformation of the projectile is a big no-no. Precision shooters rely on consistant case neck tension to aid in accuracy. Case necks are turned with hand tools so they have the same outside thickness their entire circumference for concentricity, and trimmed to the same length so they have a consistant grip on the bullet. Then the necks are re-sized with precision (neck only), re-sizers. The neck sizers used by precision shooters often employ the use of precision bushings of differing sizes to adjust case neck tension. NO crimping involved at all. Personal defense/hunting ammunition is entirely different. Not all, but most of these bullets have cannalures/crimp grooves provided to hold the bullet it place during recoil. Recoil WILL pull a bullet from it`s case, I`ve seen it happen in bolt rifles and revolvers the most, but it does occure in semi-auto rifles and handguns and lever actions as well. A firm crimp in the bullet will prevent that. In the past alot of factory ammunition intended for semi-auto handguns was provided with a cannalure in the brass case directly behind the end or the bullet. That cannalure is provided for the specific purpose of preventing the bullet from being driven back into the case during the feed cycle. The force of the cartridge being driven past the feed ramp on the barrel can push the bullet back against the powder raising chamber pressure to Ka-Boom proportions. So in short the crimping step in re/handloading has little to do with accuracy.

I never said crimping is more accurate than not crimping. I guess I didn't word it clear enough. I said if you're going to crimp, a separate die is more accurate. (than seating and crimping at the same time)

Rich/4x401cj PM sent! The dies would be great:D Let me know if I can at least pay shipping or something. Thanks for all your help. Since you walked me through pistol round reloading I have probably reloaded 2000 rounds without issue. Nice to shoot as much as I want without paying 12 dollars a box!

Between you, Fishhead, Budd, and David I am on my way to getting a reloading education. I guess I will skip the seperate crimp die until I see a need due to recoil enduced cartridge problems.

Now it looks like I will need to tool up somewhat for necked rifle cartridges.


Mic die
Die set - Thanks Rich!
Case trimmer
Lube & tray
Primer pocket reamer
308 bullets
Rifle primers
Shell holder- though my 45 ACP might cross over

Can anyone think of something else I will need to get to start rifle reloading?

So where in NC are you? Might be time to go do some shooting. :D

Rich/4x401cj PM sent! The dies would be great:D Let me know if I can at least pay shipping or something. Thanks for all your help. Since you walked me through pistol round reloading I have probably reloaded 2000 rounds without issue. Nice to shoot as much as I want without paying 12 dollars a box!

Between you, Fishhead, Budd, and David I am on my way to getting a reloading education. I guess I will skip the seperate crimp die until I see a need due to recoil enduced cartridge problems.

Now it looks like I will need to tool up somewhat for necked rifle cartridges.


Mic die
Die set - Thanks Rich!
Case trimmer
Lube & tray
Primer pocket reamer
308 bullets
Rifle primers
Shell holder- though my 45 ACP might cross over

Can anyone think of something else I will need to get to start rifle reloading?

Assuming one doesnt have them, a case trimmer isnt worth much with out a set of calipers to measure-set the length of said cases with... and....... go easy on the lube, you can convert a box of shiny bright cases into grease creased mutterings in sort order by over lubing.

D.

Assuming one doesnt have them, a case trimmer isnt worth much with out a set of calipers to measure-set the length of said cases with... and....... go easy on the lube, you can convert a box of shiny bright cases into grease creased mutterings in sort order by over lubing.

D.

Of course I have a caliper... I have a 4x4! Thanks for the tip on lube. And I mean that is the most hetero way possible. :flipoff2: So does over lubing cause hydraulic action in the die? With no place to go the lube distorts the case, I assume?

I fully expect to ruin a few cases getting this down. I sure did with 45 ACP. The salvagable ones became dummy rounds for a practice mag. I'll do the same here.

So where in NC are you? Might be time to go do some shooting. :D


I'm just south of Raleigh. I frequently shoot pistol at Personal Handgun Defence in Garner and rifle at a friends when I can arrange it. I need to check into the Wake Co Range but really would like to find something outdoors with good distance.

How about you? Maybe we can get PBB shooting weekend organized sometime/somewhere.