Is Box4Rocks only suited for longer wheel based vehicles? I was advised to avoid it on my CJ7 do to having to lose 8" on an already short driveshaft...

Mine has an AMC 401, 727 (Auto) with a D300. 2" body and 4" suspension.

Can Anyone who has a CJ7 (or some experience with something similar) with a Box4Rocks give me their opinion, please?

Thank You

I plan on running one in my yj. I have however, shortened up my drivetrain and moved it forward. So getting ride of 1/2 the np231 and putting a NP205 will leave me a short driveshaft but it will still be longer than the one in my CJ5

I pushed the 2.5 forward about 4 inches though.
With the 401 I doubt you will have that sort of room to work with.
I also stretched mine using XJ springs in the rear for a new wheelbase of ~100".
If you can, get a new set of spring perches with multiple center pin holes, or drill a new hole in the old perch.

I am using a Dana 300 behind my BFR, and I LOVE it.
It is without a doubt THE best money I have spent on the rig. :smokin:

A couple things to consider:
1. Make damn sure you use a quality sealant between the clocking ring and the rear case, as well as between the BFR and the block off plate.
I used "The Right Stuff" the first time around and it leaked REALLY bad.
I pulled the whole thing out (NOT fun) and redid it using anaerobic sealer.
Just wheeled it at Rausch Creek last Saturday and no leaks.:smokin:

2. No matter what rear case you end up running:
Make sure you support the rear case enough that the clocking ring bolts aren't carrying the whole thing!
Fab up some sort of secondary cross member with an additional mount for the rear t-case!

3. Check the length of the bolts that secure the clocking ring to the rear t-case. mine were a TOUCH long and didn't fully allow the head to seat in the clocking ring. I wasn't positive, but I believe that contributed to the leaks. When I pulled it out the second time I trimmed the bolts; they now fully seat in the clocking ring.

Good luck.

chris

X2 on using good sealant, mine leaks like crazy and I'm not looking forward to taking it all apart again.

Ok you can all call me stupid, but what is the box4rocks? I've only been away in korea for a few years and then school. so i'm trying to get up to speed with what is new in the market. I take it, it is some sort of doubler before a tcase?

I'm getting the impression that I have little room to work with as far as stretching my wheelbase, or moving things fwd goes.

How much shorter han a CJ5 would my driveshaft be? What could my potential problems be?

Thanks for your input!

For reference, I have a friend with a TJ, stock wheelbase, MadRooster Crawl Box (very similar to the B4R) on RE 4.5" coils, short arms and has his belly pan totaly flat. Despite the ridiculously short rear DS ~14.5" IIRC, he has minimal bind. The jeep has been on the street as a DD for over a year with this combination and wheeled plenty of times. Although he's pretzeled his tie rod a handful of times (ARB + twin sticks (dig turns) = too much torque for stock TJ tie rod) the rear DS has held up just fine with no manipulation of the joints.

Will be close. I have pic's in the B4R thread in the vendors section. I6, AX-15, NP231 to Dana300. The drive shaft is 21" I also moved the rear axle back 7.25".
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/handfulofcream/ds4.jpg
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/handfulofcream/ds1.jpg
The shaft is from Jesse at HAD 1410 joints and a 42* CV

Wow, that is a short driveshaft. If I can move my rear axle back some, maybe this can work... but I wonder how far back I can go to compensate for the 8 inches?

Thanks for your feedback.

Are you wanting to cut body?

I don't necessarily want to do more than I have to, but I have done some cutting for my Bushwacker fender flares. I'm willing to do what it takes in order to get the job done right though. Can you elaborate on your question? I'm not following.... sorry.

Thanks

Wow, that is a short driveshaft. If I can move my rear axle back some, maybe this can work... but I wonder how far back I can go to compensate for the 8 inches?

Thanks for your feedback.

There's a couple of factors that come into play, first, which rear axle to you have, 2nd, where is your gas tank located. Most jeeps with larger than stock rear ends find that their axle will contact the tank at full compression without changing the location. Moving it back could make that minimal contact a lot more frequent and a lot more destructive. Not to mention that relocating an axle in a leaf sprung vehicle is a bit more difficult than in something with a link suspension.

Right now it has a D30 front and an AMC20 in the rear with a 1 piece Moser shaft. The tank is oversized due to the gas guzzling AMC 401.

After all of the cost in making this work it sounds like it not much difference in price, not to mention simpler to just get the Atlas II 4speed tc.... What do you think?

Thanks for your opinions.

Right now it has a D30 front and an AMC20 in the rear with a 1 piece Moser shaft. The tank is oversized due to the gas guzzling AMC 401.

After all of the cost in making this work it sounds like it not much difference in price, not to mention simpler to just get the Atlas II 4speed tc.... What do you think?

Thanks for your opinions.

It all depends on what you want from your Jeep. If you want to keep the stock WB and don't want to invest in a bunch of other mods, sure, the Atlas is the way to go, if you're looking to get wheelbase anyway, the crawl box might fit the budget better and the versatility is nice in a vehicle that sees a lot of different terrain. It's preference as much as budget.

I don't mind investing in mods that will improve the performance of my Jeep, but if the investment cost is mostly due to trying to make one mod work properly... I guess what I'm trying to say is that I'm wondering which mod would cost less in the long run (afer you factor everything that it would involve, includng taking in account time/$)?

For all the trouble, I wish that I could know what the cost difference would be between making a B4R work, VS a 4 speed Atlas II? They both offer the same versatility, but one is a huge lump sum where the other can be a pay as you go over the fall/winter, but that cost is unknown to me. Are there any used ones out there, or does AA do lay aways? LOL

It would be nice to see this set-up done successfully on a CJ/YJ in person. That would realy help me not feel like a guinee pig here.

I'd go with the B4R if I could get away with my crrent WB (I looked and I have no room on either end that would make a significant difference). Also, I'd do the B4R if I was sure that I wouldn't have any problems down the trail directly due to losing 8 inches from my DS. Can anyone reasure me either way? Tough decision. :bawling:

Thanks for bouncing this back and forth with me. I arealy appreciate it.

Ok you can all call me stupid, but what is the box4rocks? I've only been away in korea for a few years and then school. so i'm trying to get up to speed with what is new in the market. I take it, it is some sort of doubler before a tcase?

It's a crawl box that uses the reduction gear portion of the 231 or 241. Same as the Mad Rooster kit.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=451754

I plan on running one in my yj. I have however, shortened up my drivetrain and moved it forward. So getting ride of 1/2 the np231 and putting a NP205 will leave me a short driveshaft but it will still be longer than the one in my CJ5

You're not the only one who wants a b4r/205. Duffy hasn't posted lately on the subject.

Without all the trick stuff you can do a B4R kit for around $600.00. If your a DIY kind of guy.

I forgot to include something important in the equation that will make a significant difference in my decision.... labour.

With either a B4R, or an Atlas II 4 speed... I will be paying a highly skilled person (who I've been recomended) to do the entire installation.

My point: I know that the B4R cost way less than the Atlas II, but if at $75/hr the B4R takes much more time to get all set-up from start to finish... that may sway the cost factor the other way.

Can anyone who has done the B4R, or an Atlas install on their rigs give me an estimate on man hours to install either of these units from start to finish?

Thanks everyone for your input. It really helps to have so many peoples brains to pick.