I am swapping in a Ford 9" rear (35 spline, detroit, 4.86 R&P) into my TJ and the existing driveshaft u-joint is a 1310. The pinion yoke on the 9" is made for a 1330 u-joint.

Should I go with the conversion joint or have my DS modified to accept a 1330? I am thinking I should go with the 1330.

Would that conversion joint be the weak link in my drivetrain?

I am running a JB Conversions SYE and a CV drivesahft in the rear. 1998 TJ with the 4.0.

Thanks

if you have a 1310 c/v on the rear of the t-case then its not really going to matter until you get serious and go one ton on your 9"- Jess:D

So you are saying that I should upgrade to a 1350? Yeesh, with my driving style and motor, I don't know if I'd need that quite yet.
:eek: Said that before and I still have empty pockets.

Run the conversion joint and bring a spaire so if you taco the driveline you then have the conversion joint to put in if you bum a spaire driveline.

Yeah a spare on that u-joint or any at that matter is a must. I'm just wondering about the strength of the joint itself :smokin:

I am leaning towards doing the 1330 since it's a little cheaper and more common.

1310 or 1330 what is the real gain? Not much if anything. A 1330 has the same spread as a 1350 but it runs 1310 caps so the same cross section. If you are running it at a safe angle and you have axle wrap under control then it is plenty strong. Run it at too much angle or run spring over on some wrangler springs then you better talk to Jess about makeing a REAL driveline. If you have axle wrap not even 1350's are going to help.

Yes, I do have axle wrap under control. That's not the issue. The issue is I am tired of doing a half ass job on my rig and having to fix things a second time.

Thanks for the info on the u-joints dean.

A guy I wheel with allot runs 42's, a pumped big block, and has a VERY heavy foot but the rear is 4 link so the driveline has to only put power to the rear and doest have to deal with wrap and he has not busted one 1310 yet. He has split a cap but it didn't come out. He did have 39.5 boggers before and would sidestep the clutch out on the street and smoke them before too and still no busted drivelines. I run a buick 3.8 in a jeep with 35's and couldn't keep a driveline in it. I now run the same 3.8 but with lower gears in the t-case, 39.5's, 60's and drive it a hell-of-a-lot harder and yet to bust the rear driveline but I do have a axle wrap bar now. I say go with the conversion joint because it is easyer to find a 1310 driveline than it is a 1330 and if you bring a spair 1310 driveline you will more likely be able to help someone out.

I think that is the way to go in my situation. You are definately right about the spare driveline and being able to help out another fellow in need.

Thanks for the advice.

Brad

If you have 1310's everywhere else in your driveline, then why carry two different spare ujoints? If you have a CV w/1310's then I'd say you may transfer the weakness to the ujoints in the cv (which imho is more of a pain in the arse to change than the one at the pinion yoke)

My vote is to change the pinion yoke.

I'll carry a couple extra conversion joints and call it a day. :rasta:

I don't know about 66CJDean's friend... but I've gone through two 1310 joints in my rear driveline since I put in the Ramjet, and all I have are 35s. (Admittedly once was just plain stupidity on my part--four 200 pound guys in the Jeep and tried to do a burnout on dry tar) :nuke:

One thing you might wanna keep in mind is that many times when you snap a joint it tweaks the shaft, yokes, CV, etc. (also put a hellacious ding in one of my Flowmasters ;) ) My 1310 shaft is all but hashed now and I don't trust it any more. I'm converting to 1350s to get that sense of trust back...

Just my $.02 USD,
Jake

Oh, and :flipoff2: Newbie!

Well I think you are :rainbow: for peeling out with 4 fat ass guys on your way to the playgirl lounge, but hey, that's your deal :D

I'm going to run this conversion joint for a bit and if I break one, I'll look into a 1 ton driveline.

Thanks

Originally posted by koolaid
Well I think you are :rainbow: for peeling out with 4 fat ass guys on your way to the playgirl lounge, but hey, that's your deal :D

I'm going to run this conversion joint for a bit and if I break one, I'll look into a 1 ton driveline.

Thanks

Bite me newbie. :flipoff2:

No, you are making this forum into junk by calling me a newbie. I'm going to crawl into my hole and never come back now. :flipoff2: :D

Originally posted by koolaid
No, you are making this forum into junk by calling me a newbie. I'm going to crawl into my hole and never come back now. :flipoff2: :D

Good! And see that you stay there until you're at least a Wheeler or something...

:flipoff2:

Alright then Minnesooooooooooda!

:flipoff2:

What are you talking about calling 200 pounds "fat ass"?

I may be 200# but I am not a fat ass. It is all :beer: muscle.

Originally posted by TN William
What are you talking about calling 200 pounds "fat ass"?

I may be 200# but I am not a fat ass. It is all :beer: muscle.

Koolaid is just a pencil-neck newbie. Just ignore him... :flipoff2:

Originally posted by koolaid
Alright then Minnesooooooooooda!

:flipoff2:

Listen here Tex, I wouldn't even get started on accents considering where you are from. Ya'll der talk lik ya dun gradiated in da turd grade.

:flipoff2:

But anyways, run the 1310's if you don't want to upgrade to a 1350. 1330's are not as common on the trail, which is where you'll need a spare.

Ben.

hey newbie :flipoff2:

run 1310's. that 231 will start getting closer and closer to being the weak link

One of my friends built his 78 fullsize bronco with d60/70 and used 1310's on the driveshafts so it would be the fuse and it works fine.

1310's aren't that weak for a Jeep, all the ones I've seen and had go out are from maintenance issues or bad angles.

and jeep boy ben, you ever been to Dallas? No one here talks with the fake accent like they did on the TV show with the same name, and I've been inside the gold buildings JR Ewing worked in and to Southfork Ranch so I consider myself more than qualified in making that statement :flipoff2:

Yeah, next thing you know we'll all be riding horses down 75 to work :D Minnesooooooooooda. :flipoff2:

Yeah, my angles are great right n ow with the fixed yoke and CV.

THanks for the advice. I don't have a heavy go foot, so that 231 will last awhile.

Thanks

Originally posted by koolaid
Yeah, next thing you know we'll all be riding horses down 75 to work :D Minnesooooooooooda. :flipoff2:

From what I hear, you guys will be riding burros... ;)

Originally posted by Jakesteramalamajama


From what I hear, you guys will be riding burros... ;)

Well, atleast we aren't riding CHURROS like you Minnesooooooda freaks :flipoff2:

well switching from 1310 to 1330 won't gain you to much in strength since the only main difference is the distance between the caps. What you do gain is that the 1330 can handle a much greater angle than the 1310 (don't quote me because I haven't thought about this for about 6 months now) but I think it's 8-10 degrees better. So the only real reason to go to 1330 is if you need to get more angle out of your D-shaft. If you're going to 1330 on the pinion end you might as well upgrade your slip yoke to a 1330 style, since you have the JB SYE you can do that. 1330 cv style yolk, part # 2-4-5441 and if you want a straight shaft it's 1330 regular yolk, part# 2-4-5521. It's been a long time since I got those part numbers but I think they are dana spicer part numbers.