I want to slow down to a crawl in my 95' ranger. I've heard about the Transfer Case Doubler from T&M Off-road Products, but haven't seen a price anywhere or heard about anybody using one. Any comments or opinions on the T&M doubler or any other crawler boxes I haven't heard about. I've also looked into swapping an NP435 or other granny gear tranny, but AA doesn't make any adapters for the 4.0.

Yes, I have done a search and seen T&M's site. http://www.tandmoffroadproducts.com

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

As far as the doubler from T&M, I wouldn't trust it as a paper wieght:barf:

The testing on this unit was in a 2500 pound buggy, not a full wieght rig, and he still broke the case during testing. He uses an electronic shifted case for the doubler, and we all know how welll they hold up:flipoff2:

Plus the guy is a pric, and won't take questions, or criticisim from anyone.

PS, the reason there is no price, is it is not for sale yet. since the prototype broke, he is tring to redesign.

Brian--

Originally posted by 1uglyranger
As far as the doubler from T&M, I wouldn't trust it as a paper wieght:barf:
Plus the guy is a pric, and won't take questions, or criticisim from anyone.


Spoken like a true ass.


The testing on this unit was in a 2500 pound buggy, not a full wieght rig, and he still broke the case during testing. He uses an electronic shifted case for the doubler, and we all know how welll they hold up:flipoff2:


And why is it that the electric t-case is that much weaker than a manual one? It's the same case but with a different shifting mechanism. The case itself is just as strong. Your real issue should be with the aluminum construction and chain drive. Either way, it's more than strong enough for a 4.0.



A&A does offer a kit to use the AtlasII.

Or you can build your own, if you don't mind doing a little machining. Here's a link to some info:
Dual T-cases (http://www.therangerstation.com/dualtcase.htm)

*note that the instructions are not complete, but they do give you some idea of which direction to take.

Originally posted by Death_Ranger





And why is it that the electric t-case is that much weaker than a manual one? It's the same case but with a different shifting mechanism. The case itself is just as strong. Your real issue should be with the aluminum construction and chain drive. Either way, it's more than strong enough for a 4.0.


.

THe weak ass plasctic shifting things, make it s POS

T&M INFO
this is what ive heard (there will be a 90 day replacement warranty (typical in the industry) to the oriinal owner and they will be $800.00. plus shipping,1.) for vehicles with electric shift transfer cases. 2.) for vehicles with manual shift tranfer cases. and of course we'll need to know transmission type (the shifters are different on the doubler).

Tom’s tcase idea isn’t all that great. Why double up two ranger cases? When one case behind a 4.0 can be broken? I Really question the strength of more than doubling the torque to yet another stock ranger case. If you’re gonna do it why not make the next case a better case? Or atleast one that’s been proven it can handle being doubled up. D20, Np208 or how about ranger/np208/205 :D

I guess I don’t have enough time to surf, cause I never read that tom broke it. What did he break on it?

Basically unless you buy an atlas2 there is nothing else out there that will bolt right up. So you’re options are to do a motor/trans swap that enables you to use a better t-case etc. Or have a doubler custom built.

A local guy here in washington doubled up BW1350's for far less than $800.

Guess what? He broke the output shaft on the second case :nuke: BTW, that was with the 2.8L

Now he runs dual NP205's.

You'd be a fool to spend that kind of cash on BW1350's when there are so many much better options for equal or less cost.

Originally posted by Death_Ranger


Spoken like a true ass.



And you are? I'm simply stating my opinion on a shitty product, if you wanna waste your money on shitty products, go ahead. But if someone asks for info, I'm gonna give it, along with my opinion. And if I offended your panty waisted a$$ I'm noy gonna loose sleep over it:flipoff2: :flipoff2: .

Go back to TRS, they probably think your cool over there:flipoff2:

Brian--

Originally posted by Death_Ranger


And why is it that the electric t-case is that much weaker than a manual one? It's the same case but with a different shifting mechanism. The case itself is just as strong. Your real issue should be with the aluminum construction and chain drive. Either way, it's more than strong enough for a 4.0.

You are a IDIOT!! you should see how thin the aluminumis on the transfercases.. They are pritty easy to break...

Ugly--I agree with you totally. It might be able to weigh down some papers, if that.

I was thinking about possibly just doing the same kind of doubler that was on the ranger station's tech page. except leave the front and back half together and just cut off the chain and front wheel output housing. then have just a 2wd low range box and find a good divorced transfer case and run a short shaft between the rear yoke of the 1350 and the transfer case.

Any problems with that?

Originally posted by rockinranger62
I was thinking about possibly just doing the same kind of doubler that was on the ranger station's tech page. except leave the front and back half together and just cut off the chain and front wheel output housing. then have just a 2wd low range box and find a good divorced transfer case and run a short shaft between the rear yoke of the 1350 and the transfer case.

Any problems with that?

I had acctually thought about that briefly, only because I have 114" of wheelbase to play with, its not like driveline angles would be a problem:D

The 2nd idea was a 1350/D20 setup like Dale is making, or a C4/D20 swap with a low gear set in the 20:confused: :confused:

So many ideas, but too lazy to try any!!!:flipoff2:

Brian--

Originally posted by 1uglyranger


And you are? I'm simply stating my opinion on a shitty product, if you wanna waste your money on shitty products, go ahead. But if someone asks for info, I'm gonna give it, along with my opinion. And if I offended your panty waisted a$$ I'm noy gonna loose sleep over it:flipoff2: :flipoff2: .

Go back to TRS, they probably think your cool over there:flipoff2:

Brian--

How you really feel about it brian :flipoff2: While your at it what are your opinions of the dana 28 as well? :flipoff2: You still interested in those gears and L/S for your DD?

Matt

No, probably not, but don't throw them out yet:D

Still making offers on houses out here, and don't need to spend any extra pennies right now, ya know what I mean...

Plus I wanted to let that canuck know where he was:flipoff2: :D :D

Brian--

Originally posted by Nobody


You'd be a fool to spend that kind of cash on BW1350's when there are so many much better options for equal or less cost.

What are the better options out there other then a 302 swap and associted possiblities there. All I know of is an atlas and that is way more money.

Originally posted by RockRanger


What are the better options out there other then a 302 swap and associted possiblities there. All I know of is an atlas and that is way more money.

That's a great point about the 302 swap, it opens a lot of doors. Trannys and transfers for $100 each...easy!

As far as which t-cases will bolt to the stock tranny, I haven't really looked into it, not to mention all the stock tranny's suck anyhow. I know you were looking into the NP435 swap which would have been great to see. In fact you'd be better off spending cash to adapt a NP435 than dual 1350's.

Anyway I was more talking about using a case other than the 1350 behind the first. Such as the dana 20 or NP205. Both cheap and easy to find. Also would allow front wheel drive. Can also get a low gear set for the dana 20 as well as improved output shaft etc. I think we all agree that the first 1350 should be fine for most.

In a Ranger, there is plenty of room to run the second case divorced. This would be cheap and easy. Or it probably wouldn't be so hard to have an adapter made. If guys can put 2 SM420 together, I think anything can be done. There's a lot of great gear boxes out there, why spend money on the 1350?

What do you suppose a 4.0L, tranny and transfer are worth? Add you $800 to that number and I think you'd have enough for the V8 swap and a real tranny. RockRanger, I know you wheel, and trust me...you want a V8!

Good points nobody. Eather way not sure I would want to spend the money to do a V8 on my truck cause then I would need to get new axles and all that stuff. Might as well build a buggy put everything in that then I have no body to mess up :D Plus I dont see any reason for me to drop 2k on an atlas or that much on a V8 swap in a truck worth probably less then that.

Matt