: Drove the Samurai today


squirrelman83
06-19-2002, 04:46 PM
Well, I finished up a few small things I had to do after the axle swap and took the Samurai for a spin around the block. One word: Vibrations. The rear shaft has vibes through 1st and 2nd gear in high range and then smooths out, and has vibes in 3rd and 4th gear in low range before it smoothes out. I couldn't feel any vibes in 1st or 2nd gear in low range, so I guess that's a plus for crawlin'. I think my rear pinion angle needs to be set just a little bit higher, but I don't know for sure.

The 5.29's definitely lowered my crawl ratio quite a bit. It is 80:1 now. I can really tell the difference between the old set-up.

The rear spool is also really cool. I did a few circles in front of the house just for S and G. It doesn't seem as bad as I thought it would.

So, I think all I have left to do now is put on the rear shock mounts and front driveshaft. Oh, and did I mention the sawzall work? I am going to have to ditch the flares and cut a few spots for clearance. Oh well, I'm just making it lighter. :D Can't wait to wheel it. ~Steve

zuk88
06-19-2002, 05:51 PM
PICS???

High5
06-19-2002, 08:03 PM
Originally posted by zuk88
PICS???

i'll second that:D

DemoMike
06-19-2002, 08:26 PM
Are you running the Sammie drive shaft? That would seem a likely source of the vibes if so. Any seconds on that?

cooljosh
06-19-2002, 11:35 PM
That sounds cool i would also like to se some pics Thanks Josh

squirrelman83
06-20-2002, 11:59 AM
Pics will be a while. Not all of us have the luxury of a digicam. :flipoff2: As far as the driveshaft goes, the rear is a Toyota CV shaft. I set the third member flange at the t-case as best I could (eye-balling), but I probably just need to adjust it a few degrees one way or the other. Hopefully I'll get the front shaft on today (need to finish drilling the front third flange). Pics will come, I promise. :D ~Steve

zukstur
06-20-2002, 12:18 PM
steve, put a square on the third member flang and point it at the t-case so you can use one side as a straight edge. Find the center point of the diff flange and line it up with the center of the t-case flange this should get you right on.

TNToy
06-20-2002, 12:57 PM
You usually want it 1-2 degrees BELOW straight at the T-case, because the diff will rise under acceleration. So if you err on one side or the other, point it a little low - not a little too high.

DemoMike
06-20-2002, 01:31 PM
Originally posted by squirrelman83
the rear is a Toyota CV shaft. I set the third member flange at the t-case as best I could (eye-balling), ~Steve

Is that the front drive shaft from an IFS Toy truck? Did'ja have to redrill that flange as well? What other mods?

squirrelman83
06-20-2002, 06:48 PM
Originally posted by DemoMike


Is that the front drive shaft from an IFS Toy truck? Did'ja have to redrill that flange as well? What other mods?

Yes, it's from a Toy truck. The transfer case flange was redrilled to except the bolt pattern and it needs to be shorten. I think that's about it, but I'm sure others can chime in if I missed something. ~Steve

squirrelman83
06-20-2002, 06:51 PM
Originally posted by zukstur
steve, put a square on the third member flang and point it at the t-case so you can use one side as a straight edge. Find the center point of the diff flange and line it up with the center of the t-case flange this should get you right on.

Thanks, I'll do that. Wish I would have known before the welding, but I have a couple sets of degree shims left over from before, so I should be able to get it figured out. ~Steve