I have an '80 Scout II on full width axles. Dana 60 rear and Dana 44 front. 4.88s and lockers. Also 345 / D300 / 727 .

From what I have read on here the 60 is ok up to about a 40" tire. As far as the 44 I have read alot of varying opinions from 35" up to 39.5" .

I figure fellow Scouters would be the most familiar with how the 44 handles the power and weight of the 345.

How big of a tire would give me regular problems from the d44 ???


I have been wanting a 15" wide tire but not thrilled about stepping down to a 35 ... or all the way up to a 38.5:homer:

if you wheel in a parking lot you can run 49.5's but if you really wheel even if you wheel 25's it will eventually brake.

I had good luck with 37's and a front 44 but I carry spares cause I KNOW it will break.

Locker up front makes difference as well.

You can run up 38s, some have run bigger with open fronts.

Personally, I think 35s or maybe 36s up front with a good locker is your best bet.

I run 35s. Like Brandon, I carry plenty of spares.

I ran 44's on an open 44 and never broke. then I put in a locked up 60 and blew it up on the first trip out. if you want to run big tires and a locker carry lots of spares. 37" is a very good size tire.

Is your rear 60 FF?

Because 30-spline FF 60's are not much stronger than a 30 spline D44 rear.

35's would be my vote.

I agree, 35-36's locked with spares, and up to a 38" open with spares.

Oh and make sure you have the tools and know how to go along with those spares :D

I daily drove a SII with 38s. the rubbed th springs at full lock, but since you are on full width that shouldn't be an issue.

I had a 304 and a lincoln locker, broke a hub once. Never really wheeled it like that.

Another vote for 37s.

you gonna tell us where you live/wheel?

i run 37s with beadlocks on a full width 44 with 4.56s and a detroit...i broke hubs the first two times i wheeled it, then went to drive pucks (like on the wagoneers)....last trip out i broke a long-side inner shaft...i'll have to pull both sides down and drop the diff cover probably because it broke right at the splines in the carrier...i dont care if you do have spare parts, that kind of trail fix sucks!...i'm going to try running alloys and a lighter foot...see how it goes...

on the other hand i ran the stock 44 open with 36" swampers on steel wheels until the tires were bald, and beat the shit out of it everytime i wheeled...never broke nuthin':flipoff2:

i run 37s with beadlocks on a full width 44 with 4.56s and a detroit...i broke hubs the first two times i wheeled it, then went to drive pucks (like on the wagoneers)....last trip out i broke a long-side inner shaft...i'll have to pull both sides down and drop the diff cover probably because it broke right at the splines in the carrier...i dont care if you do have spare parts, that kind of trail fix sucks!...i'm going to try running alloys and a lighter foot...see how it goes...

I'd ditch the pucks & go back to hubs.

Hubs are cheaper than shafts & 10x easier to fix on the trail.

Que BLK Scout 800.

I'd ditch the pucks & go back to hubs.

Hubs are cheaper than shafts & 10x easier to fix on the trail.

good point...:homer:doh!

Thanks for all the responces. I have been running the 36/12.50 good year bias H1 tires. Looking to move to a better tire. Like a TSL SX. Wanted to go wider than 12.50 but guess that won't happen.

I live in SW MO and I wheel ... in the woods, lol. Mostly loose rocky soil, lots of trees so covered in leaves and branches, some creek beds / rocks.

Thinking I'll stick to a 36 , or possibly a 37 as some suggested. I carry plenty of tools, occasional breakage is ok and expected ... just not looking to do more working than wheeling. Also not looking to "baby" it to keep it together.

Anyway, thanks for the input. Kinda what I was expecting to hear.

Sell them bias ply tires and get some radial tires. H1 37" can be found were you got your 36"