is it worth it? i found one at a pick your part. i dont know if anything is spun butttt its closed knuckle and ya. how hard is it to get rid of the drums. do i only need to get or make a caliper backing plate, can i redrill the kunckles to accept a dana60 style snout?

besids all that is it worth blowing up my back trying to pick it?

closed knuckles.

drum brakes.

search....

I wouldnt pay more than 150 for it MAX! The one I have ran liked to -unscrew- the spindle nuts on the driver side. The wheel bearings would get loose and the wheel fell all the way off once. Tough as hell and came with a spicer power lock. Worked good in the mud truck. My .02 cents.

closed knuckles.

drum brakes.

search....


definatly not what i was asking...

I wouldnt pay more than 150 for it MAX! The one I have ran liked to -unscrew- the spindle nuts on the driver side. The wheel bearings would get loose and the wheel fell all the way off once. Tough as hell and came with a spicer power lock. Worked good in the mud truck. My .02 cents.

i think ill just get it. shit its at an ecology so it cant cost to much. its wayyy big and ya i could probably use the center for somethign. could i retube it and i dont know off hand the size of the tube buttt can i get open kunckles for it? i ask you cause you hade one.

definatly not what i was asking...

its not the ansewer you want but its the ansewer you need to hear.


so what would be the breaking point on $$$ for you to consider "worth it"? since you didnt even tell us what it cost in the first place?

you obviuosly wont be doing the work your self, so thats............

400-600 to retube and angle new c's
500-1000 for knuckles and c's since you do want open knuckle

i dont think the spindles will work with the new open knuckles, which means the hubs probably will need to be replaced too.


opps dont forget new shafts and locking hubs, some rotors will bea needed too.



so again closed knuckle and drum brakes................hint hint.

you obviuosly wont be doing the work your self, so thats............


oh really now...

its not the ansewer you want but its the ansewer you need to hear.


so what would be the breaking point on $$$ for you to consider "worth it"? since you didnt even tell us what it cost in the first place?

you obviuosly wont be doing the work your self, so thats............

400-600 to retube and angle new c's
500-1000 for knuckles and c's since you do want open knuckle

i dont think the spindles will work with the new open knuckles, which means the hubs probably will need to be replaced too.


opps dont forget new shafts and locking hubs, some rotors will bea needed too.



so again closed knuckle and drum brakes................hint hint.

i saw somewhere a while back where some guy would convert keiserm715 axles to disks which is a closed kunckle dana60. he would machine the backs of the drum hubs to fit a rotor. he then made his own caliper bracket. it didnt seem to gnarly to convert it....
again your posting the obvious stuff but if its cheap why not.

but my plan is probably going open kunckle. and no the spindles probably wont work...

i saw somewhere a while back where some guy would convert keiserm715 axles to disks which is a closed kunckle dana60. he would machine the backs of the drum hubs to fit a rotor. he then made his own caliper bracket. it didnt seem to gnarly to convert it....
again your posting the obvious stuff but if its cheap why not.

but my plan is probably going open kunckle. and no the spindles probably wont work...

one thing i am not sure is how the guy made the caliper clear the knuckle. again this is not one of those deals where if there is no easyway then there is no way at all.

i think ill just get it. shit its at an ecology so it cant cost to much. its wayyy big and ya i could probably use the center for somethign. could i retube it and i dont know off hand the size of the tube buttt can i get open kunckles for it? i ask you cause you hade one.

I think the spindles are 8 bolt instead of 6 like a 60. They are also narrow with the bolt on style hub (8 bolts there too) so real hubs wont go on it. If it had drive flanges instead of selectable hubs you may have to find some. Mine had selectro's. You could retube it but I think the only reason to use one of these is if its cheap or free. Working on one will cost so much money that IMO you are really better off starting with a 60 if you cant use it just like it is. You will be haveing to buy new inner c-s and knuckles because any one who has the kind you want are on a 60. If they want to get rid of the outers you may as well just get and use the 60 instead. Just the way they are the 70s are tough. I never BROKE anything with 44 inch tires and a big block ford in a mud truck. But the brakes and steering sucked big time. As well as what ever was wrong causing the spindle nuts to constantly come unscrewed. No matter how tight I got them the nuts would turn together and break the locating tab on the washer off. Then the nuts (tight together) would unscrew on the left side letting the tire go. I think they are only 19 spline on the inner axle but I cant remember for sure.

I think the spindles are 8 bolt instead of 6 like a 60. They are also narrow with the bolt on style hub (8 bolts there too) so real hubs wont go on it. If it had drive flanges instead of selectable hubs you may have to find some. Mine had selectro's. You could retube it but I think the only reason to use one of these is if its cheap or free. Working on one will cost so much money that IMO you are really better off starting with a 60 if you cant use it just like it is. You will be haveing to buy new inner c-s and knuckles because any one who has the kind you want are on a 60. If they want to get rid of the outers you may as well just get and use the 60 instead. Just the way they are the 70s are tough. I never BROKE anything with 44 inch tires and a big block ford in a mud truck. But the brakes and steering sucked big time. As well as what ever was wrong causing the spindle nuts to constantly come unscrewed. No matter how tight I got them the nuts would turn together and break the locating tab on the washer off. Then the nuts (tight together) would unscrew on the left side letting the tire go. I think they are only 19 spline on the inner axle but I cant remember for sure.

can you change the spider gears to take the newer 35spline? tho im not totally sold on the arguement against fine spline vs coarse spline to warrent trying to do it.
ya this is really going to come down to how much i can get it for. it all depends on ecology. im thinking two hundred maby less. i could always pull it then hide it in part of the junkyard they dont remove cars from, which is probably what i will do.( did that for the sm465 np205 i found)

Yes 35 spline side gears swap right out. I have heard that people take 35 spline gears out of ford 70 rear or dodge 80 rear. Then use stock ford inner axles out of a dana 60 with 35 splines. I believe the two axles shafts are close in length but I am not positive.

why would you want to even bother with it?
there is NOTHING on it you want. so what if it's cheap,
it would be cheaper to have a new axle built to your specs then to chop this one up and re-build and modify it.
they are beefy as hell, but not worth it unless that is the axle you want.
if you want an axle you won't break, can live with closed knuckles, drum brakes and a wide turning radius. then buy it. if not, leave it in the wrecking yard.
btw, why do you ask questions, then argue that the answers are wrong?
Doug

Dodge front 70's have 35 spline inners. Bad news is the tracta joints. You can find an IH knuckle that used u-joints to fit a d60 axle shaft in, or you could just make the reliefs in the stock knuckle to allow the d60 axle joint to slide through. Then get an external d60 drive flange, and with a little modification and a spacer it should work, from what I've seen and been told anyway.

Then it's really only a matter of upgrading the brakes.

Dodge front 70's have 35 spline inners. Bad news is the tracta joints. You can find an IH knuckle that used u-joints to fit a d60 axle shaft in, or you could just make the reliefs in the stock knuckle to allow the d60 axle joint to slide through. Then get an external d60 drive flange, and with a little modification and a spacer it should work, from what I've seen and been told anyway.

Then it's really only a matter of upgrading the brakes.

OH YEAH, SH!T. I forgot about the tracta joint. NO U joint in these front axle shafts. It looks like a couple of ankle bones that mesh together with no bearings caps or balls. When the spindle comes off the stub shafts falls out on the ground. The first time I saw one I thought it was broken. Still never broke it though.

why would you want to even bother with it?
there is NOTHING on it you want. so what if it's cheap,
it would be cheaper to have a new axle built to your specs then to chop this one up and re-build and modify it.
they are beefy as hell, but not worth it unless that is the axle you want.
if you want an axle you won't break, can live with closed knuckles, drum brakes and a wide turning radius. then buy it. if not, leave it in the wrecking yard.
btw, why do you ask questions, then argue that the answers are wrong?
Doug

i didnt exactly argue anything. just ohh man it has drums is a lame excuse. so what mog axles and rockwells are lame?
so its u joints suck... that is somethign i wanted to hear. even if it is hacked up. it will still cost less than a an aftermarked housing so reguardless i can save money on that.

i didnt exactly argue anything. just ohh man it has drums is a lame excuse. so what mog axles and rockwells are lame?

Have you ever driven a smaller vehicle (smaller than a mog or deuce) with 4 wheel drum brakes? Have you? and have you gotten them wet? Now add big tires to this equation, unless you're running some 31" mud brutes :D

I would, however, at least pop the cover and see if it has a power lock or detroit. Either one of those two would make it worthwhile to me, and if it has deep gears you can probably sell them to someone, or use them if you have a D70 rear. Even if it has an open carrier, if it is the two piece then you can get a cheap detroit for it (14 bolt cheap).

Have you ever driven a smaller vehicle (smaller than a mog or deuce) with 4 wheel drum brakes? Have you? and have you gotten them wet? Now add big tires to this equation, unless you're running some 31" mud brutes :D

I would, however, at least pop the cover and see if it has a power lock or detroit. Either one of those two would make it worthwhile to me, and if it has deep gears you can probably sell them to someone, or use them if you have a D70 rear. Even if it has an open carrier, if it is the two piece then you can get a cheap detroit for it (14 bolt cheap).
oh to clear that up i dotn plan on keeping the drums. i guess my point was that breaks are relatively easy to change out to why have that as a make or break issue for something your getting.