Hey pirate...
Well I have the NP242 and with no HD SYE option available to me, I am going with the next best thing... the hack and tap

Now I have researched this for far too long and I only need one more measurement before I go ahead and order everything

If you have read GoJeep's SYE [ http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm ]I will be using a similar yoke from Jesse @ High Angle Driveline, obviously it will need a couple modifications but nothing too hardcore :flipoff2:

Since I have a 96' case, I have the 1 piece tail cone that seals all the oil in. Now on GoJeeps setup, he has an older case that uses the RE seal, which I don't need.

So I plan to use Old_Man's flange setup and incorporate the yoke instead. This will allow me to butt the yoke against the output bearing just like GoJeep.
http://www.4x4getaways.com/oldmansye.htm

Anywho, "fergie" uses the Currie seal part number CE-9069TS and apparently this seal fits the O.D. of the currie flange perfectly...

Now I want to use the Currie seal in conjunction with the yoke from Jesse.

I gave Jesse these specs:
1.172 x 27-spline
1.50 seal diameter
1310 series U-Joint
"It must though also have bolt through U bolts where the nuts for the U bolts end up on the back of the yoke and not a saddle type yoke like the pinion end of the rear driveshaft."


He replied saying that he stocks a yoke to those dimensions so that kicks ass

I e-mailed Currie and haven't heard a response yet... I need to know if anyone on here knows what the dimensions (I.D.) of the seal in question (CE9069TS)

Or if someone knows the O.D. of the flange that currie sells, I can use that spec as well... either will work

Bump for the day crew.... really need to find the answer to this

A buddy of mine got a sye from currie for the 242. He sent the shaft to them they cut it down and sent him the rest of the parts he needed to do the change and it wasnt that bad of a price either. His is a 95 xj. You may also have a better chance just calling currie instead of sending an email to them.

Other than that I dont know the measurement of the seal you are asking about.

Go Jeeps writeup works fine for the 242, same output yoke, you just need to get a seal that is 1.5" ID, and whatever OD the old seal was from Fastenal. (http://www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex?N=999603592&in_dim_search=1)
Why are you jumping through all those hoops? Its realy not that hard to do the way Gojeep did it. You might not even have to change the seal.

Islander remember I have a 96' case so I will not be using the RE seal kit...I will be keeping the stock tail cone, and hopefully removing the factory dust shield so that I can butt the yoke against the output bearing.
So you are saying that the OD of the RE seal and the stock +96 tail cone are the same size?

;7393779']Islander remember I have a 96' case so I will not be using the RE seal kit...
So you are saying that the OD of the RE seal and the stock +96 tail cone are the same size?
No, the OD of the shaft Gojeep (and you) are talking about should have the same OD as the stock shaft, 1.5" +/- .002". So you shouldn't have to change the seal at all, unless yours is old and fubared, then just order a stock replacement.

I've got a '97 242 sitting on the floor in my garage, waiting for me to get around to installing the Hack n' Tap, when I get home later I can bust out some calipers and throw you some measurements.

see what is really screwing me up is the dust shield
ignore the flange and you can see the shield here:
http://www.4x4getaways.com/d_shaft.jpg

with it removed it will look like this:
http://www.4x4getaways.com/tailcone.jpg

so butting the yoke all the way up to the bearing... there is no way that the factory seal is going to work... because the seal is designed to seal the diameter of the output shaft not the output shaft AND the diameter of the yoke (which is 1.5")

Alternatively I could keep it simple and just have the yoke butt against the dust shield... but I won't be relieving any leverage on the tail shaft. Therefore the setup would be no better then running the flange pictured above.

Are you trying to get the yoke in the end of the tailcone? Why that far? My 242 didn't even have a dust shield. There should be (is) a seal on the outside of that bearing that fits the output Yoke.
http://www.jrfarrar.com/jeep/install/tomwood/sye/images/twsye04.jpg
(not my picture, just googled it)

You lose about 2" of driveshaft with the flange and ADD leveage becasue your extending the pivot point of the U-Joint out farther from the T-Case (than with just a Yoke).

hehe now you see my dilemma lol
Well I guess it isn't a huge deal if I don't have it riding against the output bearing... I just wanted a much stouter setup. Gojeep knows his stuff... I don't want to go too far astray from his setup, thats why I wanted to push the yoke as far into the tailcone as possible

Edit: and you just said it yourself, the further out on the tail shaft the flange (or in my case the yoke) is the steeper the angle, this is why I want the yoke as far in as possible...

How much lift are you running?
An inch shouldn't realy make a difference with our rear driveshafts, unless you swappend in a rear axle with a realy long and low pinion. The front is a whole nother story... :eek:
Now go, Do Work :flipoff2:

Edit: it is just easier to do it the GoJeep way.

4" front 2" (bastard pack)in the rear LOL, as you can imagine it is kind of ridiculous looking
I don't want to lift the rear any more because I am already getting slight vibrations, so I want to deal with them first (SYE) and then match the front ride height by lowering the rear shackle mount, thus moving my pinion angle up to perfectly suit my SYE :grinpimp:

just order an atlas...

then there is no question...

just order an atlas...

then there is no question...

LOL I'll need to work 80 hour weeks and donate a shit load to the sperm bank to afford one :laughing: