cody4011
10-24-2007, 03:23 PM
Just finished up a solid axle swap in a 2001 Chevy 1500.... Used a '94 Ford 60 front with stock dual piston calipers... The rear is a GM 10.5 14 bolt with discs, using the standard 73-87 large GM calipers... I have very little brake pedal, and at the very bottom of the travel, the rear will lock up... Anyone else had any experience with a master cylinder swap? Maybe a residual valve? Let me know.... Thanks...
TireFryerSS
10-24-2007, 04:03 PM
I could be way off base here, but that sounds like kind of like air in the lines.
slatebranchoffroad
10-24-2007, 07:39 PM
Recently finished my swap with the d60 and 14b with disk break conversion. I replaced all break lines in the swap, brakes bleed completly in just a couple trips around the truck. The brake peddle is stiffer with better brakes than it was before I did the swap with the factory MC. Like stated above air in the lines is a good bet.
supersize75k5
10-25-2007, 03:35 AM
i just finished installing my 60 this week in my 07,
brakes are ok..
do you have hydro boost? I do and curious if both of you guys do?
cody4011
10-25-2007, 06:09 AM
I have bled and bled and bled these brakes... They dont seem to "pump up" like a brake system normally does when it has air trapped.... It does not have hydroboost, but all of the ABS stuff is still in-line....
bggrnchvy
10-25-2007, 12:43 PM
Get rid of your ABS comp and put an adj prop valve in line with the rear hardline.
slatebranchoffroad
10-25-2007, 11:41 PM
I agree with the above post. I placed my proportioning valve in-cab and got rid of all abs components, selling the abs pump on ebay. My brake system is not hydroboost, just factory MC. My D60 is from a 79 Ford, I noticed yours is a bit newer. My calibers are dual piston, not familiar with componets of newer models but would think they are similar. Like stated above loose the abs pump, pull the abs fuses and I bet you'll be good to go.
cody4011
10-30-2007, 08:04 AM
OK... Bypassed the abs pump/motor-still no brakes... You get a good pedal without the help of the booster, but as soon as vacume is applied, the pedal goes straight to the floor... Dont get me wrong, the brakes work somewhat, but there is NO pedal... Anyone done any master cylinder swaps on these trucks??? Im starting to get pretty pissed off at this thing, so any help will be greatly appreciated... Thanks...
supersize75k5
11-04-2007, 11:00 PM
i really doubt it.. but
when I was 17 I had the calipers on the wrong sides..spent hours screwing with it for my friend to point out that the bleeders were on the bottom and not the top:shaking:
also bench bleed the master before you put it in the truck
cody4011
11-05-2007, 09:16 AM
The master cylinder was never removed from the truck and the bleeders, both front and rear, are oriented right... Im thinking this is deffinately going to be a MC swap typed deal... I need to figure out which one will come close to bolting on, and provide proper volume/pressure to these larger-than-stock calipers... Anyone done a hydroboost swap on one of these 99-up 1/2 tons? Thanks...
black4x4
11-05-2007, 10:27 AM
bleed the master then hook your lines up and bleed the system. I run the exact same setup for brakes on the same style of truck with a cam that robs some vacuum from the booster and I still have good brakes.