I have a '98 TJ and I am looking into putting a V8 in it. I live in California and want to pass smog testing. My goals are torqe and V8 rumble. I do not care much about hp. I am looking for the easier of the swaps, then which is lessor of cost and finnially which motor has more of a torque personality. I will probably run a granny geard 5 speed but may go with electronic overdrive automatic if it were cost effective. I have an AX-15 now.

thanks...

Cheapest would be the LS1 or the 5.0L since many companies make motor mounts, trans adapters, wiring harnesses.....

Quadratec, 4WD, Advanced Adapters all sell motor mounts and trans adapters.

Check with "Painless" for a wiring setup.


KILLERtj

Cheapest would be the LS1 or the 5.0L since many companies make motor mounts, trans adapters, wiring harnesses.....

Quadratec, 4WD, Advanced Adapters all sell motor mounts and trans adapters.

Check with "Painless" for a wiring setup.


KILLERtj

Not true. So many places make wiring harness for the 5.9 5.2 and the 4.7l. Advance adapters makes motor mounts for them to. You can use your transfer case with these engines with no adapters. only might have to change out the input shaft. Also you can use the factory guages in the tj. So many people are doing this any more so I'm sure there is plenty of good info out there. A v8 conversion isn't always cheap period.

The LS1 has alot of bottom end torque and a fairly flat torque curve, I drive one everyday in a Camaro. If you want the best performance-go for the LS1.

Many dakotas came with an AX15, so that adaption would save $ and time.

Brandon- where can I get some Mopar wiring harnesses? I am looking for one for a 360 magnum. The whole making my own wiring harness isn't sounding like fun at the moment.

Thanks,
KILLERtj

I understand I will need new gauges for the LS1 which I accept. I am looking at which motor is the simplist from an emission control concern and sensors. I like the lack of sensors I have with the 4 liter and do not plan on running very much valve overlap. Just headers with some port work. I am familliar the the Ford 5 Liter and like it the best but would rather go with another one if it were more practical. I should search to see if I can get all the smog contorl for it. The Dodge and Gm still apprear simpler though.

I am considering doing an automatic swap as well. I like shifting but the idea of a slipping the clutch in a torque converter that is cooled to gain a gear reduction and lockup ability appeals to me. I really like the way autos drive.

http://www.backwoodsoffroad.com/cgi-bin/imcart/read.cgi?article_id=2&sub=2

Dodge 5.2L and 5.9L swap parts

The Ford EEC-IV system is one of the easiest systems to adapt/swap into another vehicle. And aftermarket harnesses are readily available for them. If you are interested in torque, then I'd consider using a 5.8L (351W). The EEC-IV will function on that motor, you can use a variety of CARB certified Mustang parts on it, and you'll get plenty of torque. My project uses a 5.0L Ford Racing GT-40 crate motor and the EEC-IV EFI:
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r320/HackFabrication/Hooded001.jpg

The motor is rated at 345hp with the 24# Injectors/65mm Throttle body/MAF/Intake/Cam/Headers that I'm using. It'll have enough torque to break stuff. However, I don't have to pass emissions.

The LS1 swap has probably the greatest amount of aftermarket support. Although there is growing support for the 5.2 and 5.9 Dodge swaps too. When you inqure, look for places that offer kits that will meet Cali emissions standards.

I personally like the idea of the 5.9 Magnum swap.

5.9 magnum swap is the way to go! its very ez wiring harness to deal with.

All of those mentioned are comparable in terms of ease of installation, power and emissions controls. Basically it comes down to personal preference, price and availability. Find one you like the best and go with it.

http://www.backwoodsoffroad.com/cgi-bin/imcart/read.cgi?article_id=2&sub=2

Dodge 5.2L and 5.9L swap parts

Ask for Evan. He'll help you with any thing you need and with the hole install. I agree it comes down to personal opinion. I chose to swap the 5.9l.

Air pump
Rock Auto has air pumps listed for all Dodge trucks up to 2002. 1998 Camaro, Suburbian, Vans, 2002 TAhoe, 2002 Camaro.


No air pump
Dakotas up to 2003, 2003 5.2L 1500 Van and 2003 5.9L 1500 pickup. The 1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9L. Ford 5 liters had no air pump listed from 1998 to 2001. 1998 Chevrolet pickups, 2001 6 liter trucks, 2007 Corvette, 2001 Avalanche 5.3L.

Mass air vs. Speed density.
It appears most of the Gm products have Mass air. If I go Ford then Speed Density is out. I like the simplicity of Speed Density but most Ford Speed Density motors have Air Pumps so a Mass Air Flow Sensor insead of an Air pump seems fair to me.

Air pump
Rock Auto has air pumps listed for all Dodge trucks up to 2002. 1998 Camaro, Suburbian, Vans, 2002 TAhoe, 2002 Camaro.


No air pump
Dakotas up to 2003, 2003 5.2L 1500 Van and 2003 5.9L 1500 pickup. The 1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9L. Ford 5 liters had no air pump listed from 1998 to 2001. 1998 Chevrolet pickups, 2001 6 liter trucks, 2007 Corvette, 2001 Avalanche 5.3L.

Mass air vs. Speed density.
It appears most of the Gm products have Mass air. If I go Ford then Speed Density is out. I like the simplicity of Speed Density but most Ford Speed Density motors have Air Pumps so a Mass Air Flow Sensor insead of an Air pump seems fair to me.

Are you concerned about the emissions part of the swap?

I believe that if I have all the original equiptment and a healthy motor it should pass fine but I would rather not have an air pump if I can help it. I prefer Speed Density to Mass air because there are less sensors but having a mass air flow sensor is worth it if it comes with a great motor. I believe in the small block ford up to 6000 rpm. I have no doubt that the Chevy is solid too. I do not know about the Dodge but it seems simple(appealing). The fact that you can get lots of parts for the Ford and Chevy seems practical. I am not going to tear my gauges apart so there must be some generic gauges that I can hook up.
Regarding the tranny, right now with 31"s, 3.54 gears and AX-15. I am slipping the clutch to 15 mph. I notice that most manual trannys either have a high first gear or gears that are spaced far apart. Autos have fluid to cool their clutches when slipping to keep the engine reved up in the torque at slow speeds before locking up. I am probably burning up my clutch by slipping it until I get moving up to 2000 rpm. Is it more about keeping the engine reved in the torque band or setting gearing so there is adequate torque to the tires? Big engines can move trucks with a 3.03:1 gear after granny but they all seem to prefer starting out in the torque. Autos do not seem to cost any more. I like shifting but I have not driven a manual with great response while the Broncos and My smoger '82 F-150 all have excellent response with autos.

I love this DEBATE!!! It happens everytime it comes up.

The 5.2 & 5.9 Mopar engines are good for your swap. I'll second & third & forth the idea to call Evan. You can get a wiring harness from him for your Dodge engine swap for $700. You can use a your stock manual tranny or go with 4 speed auto. Evan did my engine swap for me as I wasn't able to. He has done more than one swap that is in Calif now. Do a search on here for more info.

Can 5.2L/5.9L connnecting rods take a 6000 rpm blast? Not that it matters 4 wheeling when one should be very easy on the equiptment but the small block ford can--I do not doubt the small block Dodge either but I need to do more research. It seems that a V8 Dakota or V8 Cherokee is my best option if it really lacks the smog pump. I think they are Speed Density too. Hmmm, opportunities.

Can 5.2L/5.9L connnecting rods take a 6000 rpm blast? Not that it matters 4 wheeling when one should be very easy on the equiptment but the small block ford can--I do not doubt the small block Dodge either but I need to do more research. It seems that a V8 Dakota or V8 Cherokee is my best option if it really lacks the smog pump. I think they are Speed Density too. Hmmm, opportunities.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_LA_engine#Magnum_5.2
Yes you do need to do a little research, Magnum engines are not the old 318/360 that most think of. If you look at their numbers they make LESS HP but MORE Torque than other engines. Are running roller cams plus many other improments. I can't say if a Magnum engine will take a 6,000 RPM blast but I have bumped mine off the revlimiter a few times.

A Dakota, Durango, Ram 1500, Ram 2500 are all good donors. The Grand Cherokee engines are also good donors the only issue is that the computer normally had the keyless entry and you need to have that taken out of the ECM. The other nice thing about the Dodge engine swap is that the ECM fits into the stock location on your firewall. Also the Dodge ECM will talk to our stock TJ dash so you do not have to change anything. And your OBD II plug works too.

For a performance ECM contact this shop, http://www.bgchrysler.com/

Can 5.2L/5.9L connnecting rods take a 6000 rpm blast? Not that it matters 4 wheeling when one should be very easy on the equiptment but the small block ford can--I do not doubt the small block Dodge either but I need to do more research. It seems that a V8 Dakota or V8 Cherokee is my best option if it really lacks the smog pump. I think they are Speed Density too. Hmmm, opportunities.

The 5.2/5.9 are both stought engines. I believe they can handle the abuse that you hand it. The 5.9 has like 250 hp and 340 lbs of torque so that plenty of power. I also think you will save more money doing a 5.2/5.9 swap. Agreed on the search option.

I think taht the 5.2/5.9L Dodge is the better choice for me. I probably will not turn near that many revs but it is a good insurance polocy. I am leaning toward the Dodge. I think I will run a 700R4 Manual valve body. I am planning on running smaller axles and 33" tires so I probably do not need a 360 I think after a good port job of the intake and exaust, headers, faster low end cam I should have plengy of torque to break things.

thanks....

I think taht the 5.2/5.9L Dodge is the better choice for me. I probably will not turn near that many revs but it is a good insurance polocy. I am leaning toward the Dodge. I think I will run a 700R4 Manual valve body. I am planning on running smaller axles and 33" tires so I probably do not need a 360 I think after a good port job of the intake and exaust, headers, faster low end cam I should have plengy of torque to break things.

thanks....

Okay if your going to run a Dodge engine then why do you want to run a Chevy tranny?? The Dodge 44RE or 46RE is a good 4 speed tranny with aftermarket support.
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm

I think taht the 5.2/5.9L Dodge is the better choice for me. I probably will not turn near that many revs but it is a good insurance polocy. I am leaning toward the Dodge. I think I will run a 700R4 Manual valve body. I am planning on running smaller axles and 33" tires so I probably do not need a 360 I think after a good port job of the intake and exaust, headers, faster low end cam I should have plengy of torque to break things.

thanks....

You might run into more cost if you wanna mate the 700R4 to the 5.2. When you get the motor get the tranny so then less of a hassle and no adapters wil be needed. What axles do you plan on running?

Yes you do need to do a little research, Magnum engines are not the old 318/360 that most think of. If you look at their numbers they make LESS HP but MORE Torque than other engines. Are running roller cams plus many other improments. I can't say if a Magnum engine will take a 6,000 RPM blast but I have bumped mine off the revlimiter a few times.


But they are close enough. The blocks are pretty much the same as the old LA blocks, except for a few minor differences (some oil passages and timing cover), and overall being lighter. The 5.2 has the same deck height, bore and stroke as the 318, and the 5.9 has the same as the 360. But the Magnum's are really not supposed to be bored to more than .020 over, or else it can cause bore distortion under high compression. I'm boring mine to .030 but am not doing higher compression pistons.



My vote is for the Dodge 5.2 or 5.9. It's one of the easiest factory swaps - ever. This is especially important if you want the the emissions to be straightforward, as you use your factory Jeep wiring for the OBDII port. You only need to splice in the engine harness, and plug in the V8 PCM. All the gauges work.

I understand you can do this with a wiring kit with a Chevy engine? I wouldn;t want to see the cost of that though...

Couple quick thoughts- the LS1 Camaros all used electric air pumps- that's 98 - 2002 model years. No they don't run that much, mainly 'start up' for about 30 seconds.
The LS! can be revved past 6000 rpm- but unlike the Ford 4.6- you won't feel the need to. The torque curve is starting much lower than that. I've accidently lugged my Camaro from a dead stop in 4th gear, (well was slipping the clutch until it got going)thought I was in second when I took off, no time to downshift with traffic behind me and the engine didnt seem to mind. You can skip gears all the time(6-speed), hell they come with a skip shift feature that makes you skip from 1st to 4th (1-1 ratio) if you are using less than 25% throttle! The standard 4.6 Fords I've driven (I'm a mechanic by trade-drive thousands of cars a year) needed to be revved up alot to get to the power band. They don't feel strong down low.
Something nobody has brought up here is engine weight- the LS1 is all alloy.
Good luck with whatever you choose.

I plan on running the Dana 30 up front and if I break my dana 35 rear I will probably get a Ford 9" for an Early Bronco. I do not expect the front end to go but the bigest of the axles break so I may have to gt a dana 44. Those Dodge trannys on that link had a lot of mods. I can see getting a good torque converter with the right stall and reduction and a trans cooler. How are the shifts worked on these new Dodge autos? Valve body or electronics? I would probably want to tune the shifts or better go manual valve body.

I am going to have to review automatics. I am looking for a signifisant reudction in the torque converter if I can get it, manual shifts, and a trans cooler. I keep reading of a 3:1 torque multiplication form the torque converter but I can find 1.5-2.5 with high stall speeds. If I can get that reduction it would act like it has an extra low gear beyond the 2.45:1 first right?

My tranny is stock other than a low stall speed torque converter. I like the way it shifts stock. But I am sure you can build one any way you want. I'd call that tranny shop and ask them. Also watch which tranny you get if your going with the Dodge. The 42RE & 44RE look exactly a like and most can't tell the diff. The 46RE is what you want as it is a bigger tranny and is what would most times come behind the 5.9.

Now with all that said if you go with a 5.9 be careful and upgrade your cooling system to meet the demands. I have heard (Do not know first hand) that the 5.9 can overheat if not setup correctly. And again the person to talk to about this is Evan at www.backwoodsoffroad.com

I plan on running the Dana 30 up front and if I break my dana 35 rear I will probably get a Ford 9" for an Early Bronco. I do not expect the front end to go but the bigest of the axles break so I may have to gt a dana 44. Those Dodge trannys on that link had a lot of mods. I can see getting a good torque converter with the right stall and reduction and a trans cooler. How are the shifts worked on these new Dodge autos? Valve body or electronics? I would probably want to tune the shifts or better go manual valve body.

There is no "If i break my dana 35" its when it breaks.Also I highly doubt your 30 is gonna last either. I would plan on getting the axles a while. Your hp is double your torque is nearly trippled and the V8 is heavier then the 2.5. I think you'll be ok drivimg it around but when taking it off the road be ready with spare axles

How are the shifts worked on these new Dodge autos? Valve body or electronics? I would probably want to tune the shifts or better go manual valve body.


The Dodge transmissions behind the Magnums are 46RH (Hydraulic) and 46RE (Electronic) are a later version of the Torqueflight 727 (with overdrive) and are hydraulically shifted. The only electronic part of the 46RE is the overdrive.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TorqueFlite

You can buy full vavle bodies from Fastman (http://www.thefastman.com/transmissionvalvebody.asp), or buy a shiftkit from Transgo.

Well I hate to burst your bubble but you will not be smogging and running a 5.0. Your choices will have to be a 1998 or newer engine and the transmission will be dictated by the engine also. If you chose an engine that was never offered with a manual tranny then you will not be putting one behind it.

I would vote for the 5.3 out of a GM truck. minumum 285hp and 325 ft lbs, was available with manual tranny, easily found with a 4L60E behind it.

I understood that 2000 Ford Explorers had 5 liters.

I agree that the 5.3L is a nice motor. I am trying to figure out why manuals seem to have worst respons than autos, or at least the ones I have driven. I do have a 3.83 first gear though. Of the Wranglers I have driven the autos seemed to get off the line better but my manual is good once I am past 20 mph. It must be becuase a stock stall would be 1500-1800 rpm compared to much lower with a 3.03-4:1 first with a manual. or the NV 4500 with wide ratios. I am trying to figure this out. Jeep ditched the AX-15 for the NV3550 with a 4:1 instead of a 3.83:1 and finnially the six speed with 4.4:1 first. I guess you have to trade off with a low first or have wide gears or add more gears like a semi truck. What am I missing. When you let off the clutch on a T-18 with the 3.03 first the engine is probably not making its best torqe, mabe 240 ft/lbs at 1200 rpm in mabe a 350 cid that makes 400 ft/lbs peak. Correct me.
thanks...

I forgot about the Exporers 5.0, but the output #'s are low on those. If you are going to do a V8 swap at least gain 50 hp and the same or more in torque.

I am leanging toward Dodge 5.2L and GM 5.3L right now. I would need new gauges for the Gm won't I?

I am leanging toward Dodge 5.2L and GM 5.3L right now. I would need new gauges for the Gm won't I?

There is suppose to be a company that will make you a harness to run both computers. You will have to keep the stock computer if you want the stock dash.

If you choose to replace your dash here is a really good writeup.
http://www.joewest.org/Instrument_Panel.htm

The 5.3 GM is one of the LS series of motors. Same as the LS1 except cast iron block. They go as big as a 6.0 - that's the Escalade/Denali motor- it may be harder to find. I would think the LS1 with 5.7 litres and all alloy block and heads would save some weight (about a 100 lbs) and have a bigger displacement in the same physical size and mounting. The 5.3 would be easier to find in the bone yard possibly- remember though that the truck engines have a taller intake manifold-hood clearance issues.
Hot Rod magazine (May '07) had a good article on swapping Ford, Mopar and GM engines into early muscle cars but it has some great sources for stuff to check out for swapping. It suggested looking at the following site for parts and solutions
www.hotrodlane.cc
for the LS engine swaps including wiring and computer stuff. Edit- just noticed that they have Mopar swap stuff too-check out the Hemi in the Jeep video.

I do not doubt those LS motors are great but I am not sure how to make the GM Computer talk to my Jeep computer for the gauges to work. I want to run the stock gauges so I will probably run the stock computer too with the engine's computer. So I guess it comes down to: is it harder to connect the GM operating computer and harness to my stock harness and computer or to hook up a dodge computer and harness to my existing computer and harness. Those Dodge trannys have higher first gears (2.45 vs. 3.06GM) is that a problem?

I do not doubt those LS motors are great but I am not sure how to make the GM Computer talk to my Jeep computer for the gauges to work. I want to run the stock gauges so I will probably run the stock computer too with the engine's computer. So I guess it comes down to: is it harder to connect the GM operating computer and harness to my stock harness and computer or to hook up a dodge computer and harness to my existing computer and harness. Those Dodge trannys have higher first gears (2.45 vs. 3.06GM) is that a problem?

It isn't an issue to hook the Dodge computer to your computer, the Dodge computer replaces the stock Jeep computer and talks to the dash NO PROBLEM. That is why people who want to keep their stock dash are better off doing a Mopar swap. You blend the Dodge wiring harness and the Jeep wiring harness together or if you don't want to do it you send Evan your Dodge & Jeep harness and he will send you back a blended harness done for you for $600 I think. He's web site has the price

Engine bay empty and waiting for my V-8

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/wildman2.jpg

Wiring which is blending the two harnesses together into one.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/Finalwiring.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/Finalwiring2.jpg

Trail fit.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/Trialfit.jpg

Final product

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMGP0219.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMGP0218.jpg

In how many places does this dodge harness have to connect to my haness? I can connect wires if I know what ones. I guess I whould talk to this swap guru who sells the parts to find out where to make the connection. I know the motor mount welds need to be damn good. I am pretty sure they will have to mount in a different place than my stock mounts so I can keep my existing driveshafts. By mounting the engine so far back I will probably need an electric fan.

In how many places does this dodge harness have to connect to my haness? I can connect wires if I know what ones. I guess I whould talk to this swap guru who sells the parts to find out where to make the connection. I know the motor mount welds need to be damn good. I am pretty sure they will have to mount in a different place than my stock mounts so I can keep my existing driveshafts. By mounting the engine so far back I will probably need an electric fan.

Well Evan isn't going to give you the info for free because he is in BUISNESS to do swaps. Can anyone tell you exactly which wires you will need? Sure I guess someone who has do it before might. If you plan to do the wiring harness yourself then you need to get a FSM(Factory Service Manual) for your Jeep and your donor truck which ever it might be. Then you sit down and start stripping wires and blending the two harnesses. Again if your not real good at this type of stuff you need to send the twp harnesses to Evan and have him do it. Check out his web site for the current price. Also he sells the headers, radiator & motor mounts that you need for the swap.
And yes your old mounts need to come off and you are going to have to weld new motor mounts on. If you can't weld you can get a mobile wleder to come by your house and do it for you.

I am going to say this again, Evan has a buisness to do engine swaps and sell the parts need for that. At the same time I have seen him bend of backwards to help someone with their swap. So if you have decided to go with a Mopar engine or if you still just have lots of questions CALL EVAN.

I do not doubt those LS motors are great but I am not sure how to make the GM Computer talk to my Jeep computer for the gauges to work. I want to run the stock gauges so I will probably run the stock computer too with the engine's computer. So I guess it comes down to: is it harder to connect the GM operating computer and harness to my stock harness and computer or to hook up a dodge computer and harness to my existing computer and harness. Those Dodge trannys have higher first gears (2.45 vs. 3.06GM) is that a problem?

For that answer-ask the people at the website I gave you.

Here is a company that deals in custom harnesses.
http://www.speartech.com/

hey wildman do you have any pic's of your shifter bracket mounted to the tranny. I have the A518 tranny but I think your will be simular.. Sorry to change subject

That helps thanks. I think I should probably just send him the harnesses.

hey wildman do you have any pic's of your shifter bracket mounted to the tranny. I have the A518 tranny but I think your will be simular.. Sorry to change subject

Do any of these help any?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMGP0225.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/IMG00577.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/IMG00578.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/IMG00579.jpg

That helps thanks. I think I should probably just send him the harnesses.

I sent my harness to the 5.9 and the harness of the tj to Backwoods and he wired them together for me so all I had to do was plug it all back in. Very simple. Hey wildman thanks for the pics.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vb3xHhs9HKI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BPZO2vYyDM


currently doing the 5.2 swap right now

5.2/NP435/novak adapter/Dana 300



The wiring isn't that difficult I don't think. I tried doing the wiring myself but couldn't get it started after my patch job. so I took the harness to atomic 4x4 and they did it for me. But it still wouldn't start. found out you can't use the CPS from an auto for a standard tranny/flywheel. But other than that, it's pretty straight forward. The computer can be a pain to track down sometimes. Also, don't use a computer out of a 97 because for some reason, it won't work with my gauges. I think you need to use a 2000+ computer. But will find out later. Also, the 5.9 has a tendency to overheat, that’s why I went with the 5.2.

once I get my drive train intact, I'm doing a Dana60/70 swap next.

also, if you go with a NP435, let me know. It's it takes a little bit of work and I'm not sure if I'm going to get it to work yet. Will find out this week.

But the NP435 is a great tranny if you don't need a overdrive gear

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np435.htm

also, I found a way to make the stock Jeep radiator to work without needing to swap the inlet/outlet.

currently doing the 5.2 swap right now

5.2/NP435/novak adapter/Dana 300



The wiring isn't that difficult I don't think. I tried doing the wiring myself but couldn't get it started after my patch job. so I took the harness to atomic 4x4 and they did it for me. But it still wouldn't start. found out you can't use the CPS from an auto for a standard tranny/flywheel. But other than that, it's pretty straight forward. The computer can be a pain to track down sometimes. Also, don't use a computer out of a 97 because for some reason, it won't work with my gauges. I think you need to use a 2000+ computer. But will find out later. Also, the 5.9 has a tendency to overheat, that’s why I went with the 5.2.

once I get my drive train intact, I'm doing a Dana60/70 swap next.

Big Luke,
So let me get this right?? You are saying the wiring isn't hard but after you got done doing yours you had to then take it to Atomic 4X4 to redo your wiring??? I'm lost really cause that doesn't make sense.

What year TJ do you have? Because they changed the type of bus the computer talks to the dash with. I don't remember the years but if you contact Evan he can tell you. So if I got a 2000+ computer it wouldn't talk to my dash.

Now it isn't an issue to find a computer if you know where to look.
http://www.bgchrysler.com/
They can reflash your ECM.

Big Luke,
So let me get this right?? You are saying the wiring isn't hard but after you got done doing yours you had to then take it to Atomic 4X4 to redo your wiring??? I'm lost really cause that doesn't make sense.

What year TJ do you have? Because they changed the type of bus the computer talks to the dash with. I don't remember the years but if you contact Evan he can tell you. So if I got a 2000+ computer it wouldn't talk to my dash.

Now it isn't an issue to find a computer if you know where to look.
http://www.bgchrysler.com/
They can reflash your ECM.


I started doing the wiring myself, got the Ram and Jeep FSM and started meshing the wiring together. After my little patch jobs, I had the fuel pump working and my OBDII port to talk but could not get it to spark. So I figure I was doing something right with a couple of things working. But weeks after weeks of messing with the wiring, all that ASD crap, and no spark, I took it to atomic4x4 (they are local) and had them do it for me.

Well, I got the harness back, plugged everything in, and still no spark. I was about to burn the whole thing down. I knew in the back of my mind it might be the CPS I was using from an automatic tranny but the guys at atomic said they didn't think that mattered as long as it plugged in to the harness. Well, I just broke down and bought the standard CPS (which is a little shorter) and cranked right up.

I say I don't think it's that difficult if you have the right parts and can read the wiring a little bit. I probably would have figured it out on my own. But it's working now so I'm happy.

It's a 97 TJ and the computer I am running is off a 97 Ram. But I think you have to run the computer from a 98 or 00 Ram to get your dash to work.

I started doing the wiring myself, got the Ram and Jeep FSM and started meshing the wiring together. After my little patch jobs, I had the fuel pump working and my OBDII port to talk but could not get it to spark. So I figure I was doing something right with a couple of things working. But weeks after weeks of messing with the wiring, all that ASD crap, and no spark, I took it to atomic4x4 (they are local) and had them do it for me.

Well, I got the harness back, plugged everything in, and still no spark. I was about to burn the whole thing down. I knew in the back of my mind it might be the CPS I was using from an automatic tranny but the guys at atomic said they didn't think that mattered as long as it plugged in to the harness. Well, I just broke down and bought the standard CPS (which is a little shorter) and cranked right up.

I say I don't think it's that difficult if you have the right parts and can read the wiring a little bit. I probably would have figured it out on my own. But it's working now so I'm happy.

It's a 97 TJ and the computer I am running is off a 97 Ram. But I think you have to run the computer from a 98 or 00 Ram to get your dash to work.

And like I said call Evan and he can tell you. I think if I remember correctly that a 2000 would not work. I don't know why the 97 isn't talking to your dash. I have a 98 ECM. Again if you have a auto ECM and need it reprogramed for a manual or have performance mods then contact B&G.

Yep it might not be that hard but what do all the right parts cost? You need the tool for the electrical plugs and both FSM's which granted you need anyhow. I just find it easier to send it to Evan and have him blend the to and be done with it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vb3xHhs9HKI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BPZO2vYyDM


currently doing the 5.2 swap right now

5.2/NP435/novak adapter/Dana 300



The wiring isn't that difficult I don't think. I tried doing the wiring myself but couldn't get it started after my patch job. so I took the harness to atomic 4x4 and they did it for me. But it still wouldn't start. found out you can't use the CPS from an auto for a standard tranny/flywheel. But other than that, it's pretty straight forward. The computer can be a pain to track down sometimes. Also, don't use a computer out of a 97 because for some reason, it won't work with my gauges. I think you need to use a 2000+ computer. But will find out later. Also, the 5.9 has a tendency to overheat, that’s why I went with the 5.2.

once I get my drive train intact, I'm doing a Dana60/70 swap next.

also, if you go with a NP435, let me know. It's it takes a little bit of work and I'm not sure if I'm going to get it to work yet. Will find out this week.

But the NP435 is a great tranny if you don't need a overdrive gear

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np435.htm

also, I found a way to make the stock Jeep radiator to work without needing to swap the inlet/outlet.

I am using I 99 ram computer with mine and it works fine. There is a differance between the computers between 99 and 2000. i believe the differance comes with the overdrive feature in the A518 tranny. My engine is out of a 2000 ram. I haven't really heard of the 5.9 overheating. Are you using a 2.5 or 4.0 radiator. I can't see the 4cyl. cooling a V8.

I am using I 99 ram computer with mine and it works fine. There is a differance between the computers between 99 and 2000. i believe the differance comes with the overdrive feature in the A518 tranny. My engine is out of a 2000 ram. I haven't really heard of the 5.9 overheating. Are you using a 2.5 or 4.0 radiator. I can't see the 4cyl. cooling a V8.


I was under the impression that the radiator is the same for the 2.5 and 4.0 in the early TJ's
and I ripped out all the A/C crap (compressor, condenser) so that should help with the cooling

and that's just what I've heard about the 5.9's. They generate a lot more heat than the 5.2 as far as I know. But actually I don't know if its overheating yet. Not until I get my gauges working

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vb3xHhs9HKI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BPZO2vYyDM


currently doing the 5.2 swap right now

5.2/NP435/novak adapter/Dana 300



The wiring isn't that difficult I don't think. I tried doing the wiring myself but couldn't get it started after my patch job. so I took the harness to atomic 4x4 and they did it for me. But it still wouldn't start. found out you can't use the CPS from an auto for a standard tranny/flywheel. But other than that, it's pretty straight forward. The computer can be a pain to track down sometimes. Also, don't use a computer out of a 97 because for some reason, it won't work with my gauges. I think you need to use a 2000+ computer. But will find out later. Also, the 5.9 has a tendency to overheat, that’s why I went with the 5.2.

once I get my drive train intact, I'm doing a Dana60/70 swap next.

This question is for you, Wildman or anyone else that has done this motor into a Wrangler? Which headers did you use and would you use them again?

Thanks,
Moe

This question is for you, Wildman or anyone else that has done this motor into a Wrangler? Which headers did you use and would you use them again?

Thanks,
Moe


just using the stock headers for now. my plan was to get the thing going stock and then worry about performance upgrades later.

but headers are a good idea before you put the engine in.

This question is for you, Wildman or anyone else that has done this motor into a Wrangler? Which headers did you use and would you use them again?

Thanks,
Moe


Moe,
I am using the headers Evan from Backwoods Off-Road sells.

V8 TJ Headers
These chrome block hugger headers have 3/8 inch flanges and exit center of the block at oil pan gasket height.

They allow you to move the engine 1.5 inches towards the firewall and are required if you want to use an electric fan or not modify your existing drive shafts. Does not include Y-Pipe. $370.00

http://backwoodsoffroad.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?cat=4


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00551.jpg

Moe,
I am using the headers Evan from Backwoods Off-Road sells.

V8 TJ Headers
These chrome block hugger headers have 3/8 inch flanges and exit center of the block at oil pan gasket height.

They allow you to move the engine 1.5 inches towards the firewall and are required if you want to use an electric fan or not modify your existing drive shafts. Does not include Y-Pipe. $370.00

http://backwoodsoffroad.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?cat=4

I was looking at those but I am cheap. I cannot seem to find any other "center dump" style though so I may ed up going with them. I wont know until I get the motor in place if I need center style or not.

I was looking at those but I am cheap. I cannot seem to find any other "center dump" style though so I may ed up going with them. I wont know until I get the motor in place if I need center style or not.


you might try the older style Dodge stock headers.

http://www2.partstrain.com/v5/products.php?N=10126+1607+4294967019+9338

you could probably find some off a junker cheap.


but I'm not 100% if they will fit or not. They look like they should work, but not sure
I might use them if I have exhaust routing issues.

Moe,
I am using the headers Evan from Backwoods Off-Road sells.

V8 TJ Headers
These chrome block hugger headers have 3/8 inch flanges and exit center of the block at oil pan gasket height.

They allow you to move the engine 1.5 inches towards the firewall and are required if you want to use an electric fan or not modify your existing drive shafts. Does not include Y-Pipe. $370.00

http://backwoodsoffroad.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?cat=4


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v654/wildman4x4nut/Jeep/IMG00551.jpg

are you not running the spark plug shield? I forgot to put them in with the engine out and they are a pain to get in while the engine is in the Jeep.

But I figure they are probably pretty worthless.

Your not posting pictures of headers, they are exhaust manifold and do not flow any where as good as headers.

are you not running the spark plug shield? I forgot to put them in with the engine out and they are a pain to get in while the engine is in the Jeep.

But I figure they are probably pretty worthless.


Nope no spark plug shields

Your not posting pictures of headers, they are exhaust manifold and do not flow any where as good as headers.


headers, manifold, same different to me. Ya, they don't flow very well, but they are cheap. for someone looking for a cheap build like me.

headers, manifold, same different to me. Ya, they don't flow very well, but they are cheap. for someone looking for a cheap build like me.

Big Luke,
I am not trying to be an ass here but terminology is pretty important what talking about parts. Is kind of the same as saying flywheel-flex plate. Mount in the same spot but two different animals.

I was looking at those but I am cheap. I cannot seem to find any other "center dump" style though so I may ed up going with them. I wont know until I get the motor in place if I need center style or not.

I believe summit sells the block hugger headers. I think they sell them for older 360 but the block is close to being the same. Call them for def. answers. I'm not possitive on that. I'd go with a header anyways cause i don't thing the factory manifold will hold up and have a good chance on cracking. I didn't install that heat sheild either and haven't had any problems.

The heat shields will make a difference in the long run to the spark plug wires- they will fail due to the heat and start sparking thru. Depends on how much and what kind of useage the vehicle will get. The OEM doesn't use something like that if they don't need to. Use high performance header style wires that can resist heat better if you throw away the heat shields.
Headers are high performance tube style exhaust manifolds. To call the stock manifolds 'headers' is not proper terminology. Sounds kinda ridiculous to an experienced tech (like myself).

So does nobody run a manual behind there 5.2?

This option really interests me and i like the idea and simplicity of running the 5.2 but i wouldnt wanna run an automatic transmission if i didnt have to. Would a nv3550 or an ax15 work behind it?

I'd like to keep my stock transfer case if all possible and seeing how i have a 4 cylinder in it now i know im going to have to change the input or output shaft whichever i forget to 23 spline.

So does nobody run a manual behind there 5.2?

This option really interests me and i like the idea and simplicity of running the 5.2 but i wouldnt wanna run an automatic transmission if i didnt have to. Would a nv3550 or an ax15 work behind it?

I'd like to keep my stock transfer case if all possible and seeing how i have a 4 cylinder in it now i know im going to have to change the input or output shaft whichever i forget to 23 spline.

I am using the 5.2, NV3500 and front half of the NP231 out of a 95 Ram into my 93 Yj. The jeep tranny mount bolts to the stock crossmember and I have roughly the same driveshaft lengths front and rear (collapsed the rear 1/2" and extended the front 1/2")
I had to bastard-ize the 2 transfer cases because the Dodge input shaft was longer than the Jeep. I ended up using the dodge front half of the case and input shaft. Everything else is from the Jeep transfer case. I don't know how she will hold up, but everything went together well and works correctly by hand.

So does nobody run a manual behind there 5.2?

This option really interests me and i like the idea and simplicity of running the 5.2 but i wouldnt wanna run an automatic transmission if i didnt have to. Would a nv3550 or an ax15 work behind it?

I'd like to keep my stock transfer case if all possible and seeing how i have a 4 cylinder in it now i know im going to have to change the input or output shaft whichever i forget to 23 spline.


Using a Dakota 3.9L V6 bellhousing, you can run a Jeep NV3550 or AX15behind the 5.2\5.9.

Greg

These are some of the links I found when I was dropping my 5.2L into a '95 YJ.

http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=277042

http://members.aol.com/mymovie/motor/Jeep/swap.html

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/154_0305_jeep_tj_v8_engine_swap/index.html

http://bigredheep.com/postp46042.html318or360.htm

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/5_2v8.htm