: c-clip eliminator with detroit locker.


ob0ne
11-02-2007, 07:08 AM
I've bought some 5.29 to put in my fj40 diffs. The problem is that I should grind 2 teeths of the ring gear to clear the cross pin (ring gear is thicker than the 3.73 and the 4.10) in order to install the c-clip in the rear axle. I wonder if there is any aftermarket c-clip elimininator for not grinding the teeths.

Also, it there a need to remove the cross shaft when you put a detroit locker in these? I mean maybe putting a detroit in could avoid the need to remove the cross shaft and to grind some theets and would solve my problem. I have a concern about grinding the ring gear.

offroadr1
11-02-2007, 03:54 PM
go ahead and grind them. the 5.29s in a 40 housing are of questionable strength anyway. i have taken the detroit apart to see if there would be any stress on the cross pin and i determined that there was not. i put 4.88s in my cruiser about 6 years ago. i ground on the crosspin instead of the gears. since then i have built many and ground down the gear teeth and have not had any trouble. i definately wouldnt go with the c clip eliminators. i doubt that are that easy to fins and the ones that i have seen the axles are prone to walking out of the bearings.

ob0ne
11-03-2007, 07:04 AM
Thanks but is there a locker that don't need no cross pin ?

offroadr1
11-04-2007, 09:53 AM
zexel torsen used to make a torque biasing differential a long time ago. not sure if tthey still do. its a good option for the front though, not as harsh as a full detroit. there is no locker for the c clip rear that does not need a crosspin. you could weld it up if it is that big of a deal.

agent orange
11-04-2007, 06:08 PM
zexel torsen used to make a torque biasing differential a long time ago. not sure if tthey still do. its a good option for the front though, not as harsh as a full detroit. there is no locker for the c clip rear that does not need a crosspin. you could weld it up if it is that big of a deal.

Ive got one of those in the front of my rig, im pretty pleased with it. With the auto im feeding it brake to keep the converter spooled up most of the time anyways so i really never notice problems with both tires not turning. As far as being easier on parts, ive popped 2 birfs since i threw it in before GSMTR so dont expect it to be much kinder than a locker.

ROCK HUGGER
11-05-2007, 04:16 PM
I've bought some 5.29 to put in my fj40 diffs. The problem is that I should grind 2 teeths of the ring gear to clear the cross pin (ring gear is thicker than the 3.73 and the 4.10) in order to install the c-clip in the rear axle. I wonder if there is any aftermarket c-clip elimininator for not grinding the teeths.

Also, it there a need to remove the cross shaft when you put a detroit locker in these? I mean maybe putting a detroit in could avoid the need to remove the cross shaft and to grind some theets and would solve my problem. I have a concern about grinding the ring gear.



You could convert the rear end to a full float and you wouldn't have to worry about the cross shaft.

offroadr1
11-07-2007, 11:51 AM
thats true. i forgot about full floaters.

jetboy
11-08-2007, 06:22 PM
I have 5.29's and I ground one tooth to get the pin in. It's really not a big deal. First, you are grinding the edge of teh tooth. You don't need to take a whole tooth and IIRC you don't cut into the mesh area so you lose very little thrength. Second the ring gear is much stronger in a 5.29 gear set than a 4.10 one. Just look at how much thicker it is. Also compare the teeth. Third, if its set up properly with a decent quality gear set you will twist of the pinion long before the gear teeth become an issue. For those reasons I would just grind the tooth the minimum amount and put it together. I don't think you'll cause a strength issue.

Good luck.

89s rule
11-11-2007, 08:16 PM
I used a dremel on my 4.88s and too off minimal amounts on the teeth. No way to get around it, I have always heard to grind the gear not the center pin.

ob0ne
11-13-2007, 01:03 PM
How do I convert to full floating ? Logically, I will have to find one front diff, take the spindle, hub, rotors, calipers. BUT where can I find the shafts ? Do I have to find a OEM full floating axle (they are rare things by here) ?

jetboy
11-14-2007, 04:27 PM
You really don't want to use a front axle or parts. For a FF rear, you want a stock FF rear from a 40. Yes you probably could get a custom shaft from someone to make the rears work, but it's not the best option IMO. Another semi popular option is to do a landcruiser, mini rear hybrid. Or just grind the tooth.