Ok, this is our first project posting ever here on pirate but definitely not our first project. I know you guys can be pretty brutal on project postings. Throwing around opinions and beating on your fab/chest of how you would have/could have done better or different. That is what makes fabrication so great. There is a million ways to do certain things. It’s up to the builder and designer to choose what’s right for the specific project.

Well I figured we would go ahead and through this one build up here on P4x4 for you all to chew on! What the heck you only live once!!! Ha, ha... We may not have time to answer all questions regarding the build but we will do our best. We will also try to stay up with project postings on this build. Our goal for completion is the first of December! So wish us luck!!!

I figured we would show what we started this project with first! This was one beautiful rig and I am sure this is where we will receive the most bashing.. Taking such a perfect rig and cutting it up!!! Oh well you have got to start somewhere!!!

And this is the first thing we did after stripping all the nice parts off it! Get out the sawzaw its go time!!!!!

And then we jump to the front frame!

More of the front!

New links for the vitals.

Now to the rear!!! Thats what she said!!!

Mounting the hyro valve. Straight up bolt on!!! And the winch plate done...

Front seats in and mocking up the rear....

that orbital mount is tits.

yup, love the orbital mount.
may I ask why the front framerails? after plating they look not much different than the originals, Is it a strength issue or do they offer more clearance?

So is there still the round tube ladder style frame rail inside the square tube plate frame rail on the front? Great start on the creativity for the rear frame section.

Thanks for the positive feedback guys! It’s always scary putting your baby out there for people to scrutinize.

As for your questions:

The picture of the front frame section does not do it justice. It is raised 4" over stock. This rig is setup to ride very low but with the high steer double ended ram going on top of the D60 we wanted more clearance from the crank pulley too the ram for up travel. This frame section also allowed us to raise the engine as high as it could go also keeping the entire drivetrain above the bottom frame rails leaving us with a flat belly!!!

Yes, the 1.5" .120 wall DOM ladder bar is inside the boxed frame. The ladder bar goes about 10"(press fit) into the stock frame from where we cut it off. The motor going into this rig will benefit from that strength.

Here are some pictures of the production orbital valve firewall mount. The one on the rig (hol'd out)was cut with SFW in it but we recognize not everyone wants to advertise for us so we replaced it with the diamond cut out. We will also be offering this unit in a universal setup for different length valve bodies. This one is for the standard size that PSC sells. The valve body measures 5.5" long.

Here is some pics of our adjustable steering column that is going into this rig. It has a double sheer spring loaded pin for strength when it rolls!!!!

Looks like you guys have done this a time or two :flipoff2:

awesome build, I will be watching this!

Back to the project:

After mocking up the rear links we made the adjustments we wanted and finished up the truss mounts. We are considering putting this setup into production. This is our truss, diff cover and link tabs. The truss, diff ring and cover are made out of 3/8 A50. The link tabs are 5/16 A50 and the top tab brace is made out of 1/4 A50.

couple more of the truss link...

Very nice work. I like the rear frame rails.

very clean work

Fuggin nice!

As far as your taking the company initials out....I say fuggit, it's your product!

Keep the posting going,

B

You need to start selling that orbital mount. Sign me up as your first customer.:D

You need to start selling that orbital mount. Sign me up as your first customer.:D

Check the link in his sig.:flipoff2:

Back to the project:

After mocking up the rear links we made the adjustments we wanted and finished up the truss mounts. We are considering putting this setup into production. This is our truss, diff cover and link tabs. The truss, diff ring and cover are made out of 3/8 A50. The link tabs are 5/16 A50 and the top tab brace is made out of 1/4 A50.

Sign me up for one of these! I got a 60 but the truss and link mount would probably work. come up with a 60 ring/support and I'm there. PM me for the cash!

Got any more pics of the rear frame where it meets the rear cage. How did you merge the two? Looks killer........

wow...some good looking work on that rig

I really like what you did with the front section of the frame, orbital mount's pretty sexy to

nice work.. Semper Fi!

Battery box going into this rig..

Just a diclaimer! The shirt in the picture survived the battery accident. It got away with just minor injuries. Its tuff!!!

After looking over several of the last postings asking questions about purchasing some of these products we thought it would be best for us to go over to the Vendor section and answer your specific questions there. We are new to pirate and if moderators are at all like other BB they dont like mixing business and tech. Plus, we don't want to be the new kid on the block getting in trouble. So, off to the vendoer section we go to talk about SFW the company and its products.

We will however, continue to update this build!

Thanks again for all the excellent feedback. You guys are great!

As was said before, leave the company initials in there. It's your product and you have the right to advertise on it. Plus it looks better.

Those t-shirts are the shit. Why don't you have them listed on your website? I want one!

As was said before, leave the company initials in there. It's your product and you have the right to advertise on it. Plus it looks better.



x2

No offense but the diamond cut on the orbital mount looks lame. Yo're putting out a good looking product, there is no shame in making sure everyone knows who made it.

Sign me up for one of these! I got a 60 but the truss and link mount would probably work. come up with a 60 ring/support and I'm there. PM me for the cash!

We already have the D60 cover with or without the truss attachment. Just gotta get it up on our website. We don't have the 14blt rear truss and cover that we show in this build on our webstore yet. But we will soon...

Guys out here on the East coast would have killed for a tub that clean!

Looks cool though

How much vertical seperation do you have with the rear truss setup? it looks pretty killer

I'm also loving the rear frame rails. They are pretty sexy. It's kinda making me rethink the rectangle tube that I was going to use for my project.

Good luck with it-I will be watching for updates.

I hope you are not making that thing too pretty to wheel.

looks good

go fab work with the bumper and the frame and pretty much the whole jeep.

I would have sold that body and used a donor but as you said you need to start somewhere.

Keep posting i will be following this.

looks good

good fab work with the bumper and the frame and pretty much the whole jeep.Yo guys seem to know what you are doing.

I would have sold that body and used a donor but as you said you need to start somewhere.

Keep posting i will be following this.

Someone made the comment of making this too pretty to wheel??? Does such a beast excist??? No, this rig will wheel and will most likely end up on its lid within one of the first trips AFTER all the posser pictures are takin! Doesn't mean I won't cry though!!!(ha ha) No, its being built to wheel and if it gets messed up we will cut out the damage and replace it or we will put it up forsale and someone will get one heck of a cool (damaged) rig!! Just kidding. It should be pretty tuff and all the panels will be replaceable. The panels are in cad and we can just cut another set out. I know one thing, the front and rear frame sections aren't going anywhere. They are pretty stout!

Well we made some more progress. Here are the rear axle lower control arm mounts. These are actually our standard 20 degree brackets with some obvious modifications. We used two sets of the tabs on each mount but cut down the outer tabs 3/4" top and bottom and notched the front for the small peice of tube. A little to much work for something that is normally done with two simple tabs. But its all about the details right! (whatever)

We also got the back half of the cage almost complete. We still have some triangulation that needs to be done. But the base is done. A couple pictures are where the B pillar ties into the new rear frame section. We also went ahead and replaced the body mounts.

This is sitting at ride height. 42" iroks. From the bottom of the rocker panel to floor is 33 inches. From bottom of frame rail to floor is 28". We have a flat belly so thats it!

Just a couple more shots.

Looks great. I love the dimple die stuff. Why keep the mid section of the frame?

Someone asked a couple posts ago about how the rear frame ties into everything. Hopefully these shots help. We designed both frame sections to be the same outside dimensions as the portion of the factory frame it was attaching too. For obvious reason we did not want to just butt weld the sections together. So, we formed an offset the thickness of the material on the break press 10" from the end of the new frame section. This allowed us to bench weld (in a cutom fixture) the entire frame sections then simply slipped them over the factory frame.

Ultimately the rear frame was brought in towards center 3" on each side from stock to help clear coilovers. It was also raised 5" with a slight slope up as it goes towards the back.

I figure the question is going to be asked so I will provide this info to answer "WHY". These axles where cut down when it was first build with spring over. It was the owners 16 year old sons daily driver and the fathers weekend capable crawler. These axles where completely rebuilt with 5:13 gears, detriot lockers and only have 2500 miles on them. So we are stuck using the same axles for this build. We also narrowed the whole rear tube section which causes issues with getting a good angled mount for coilovers. And the owner did not want the typical truggy tubed out back half. So that is all the reasoning behind this rear frame section.

We went ahead and welded up the front and rear crossmembers. These are built in house out of 5/16" A50.

This is it for the weekend. We have all the attachements built and ready to link it. These are the frame mounts for the front upper control arms. We killed two birds with one stone with these. They are not only link attachements but they also tie the A pillar into the frame. We sleeved the 1.75" a pillar down tube with 1.5 dom that is stubbed out 3" below the body into a 1/4" plate that is mated to the truss which is tied into the frame. Two birds dead! Keep in mind this entire truss is made of 1/4" A50 plate except the tabs they are 5/16" A50. That is WAY overkill. But the side skid plates will tie into these and continue up the side of the rocker panel to the bottom of the door giving somewhat of a boatside effect.

Monday it should be linked and ready to flex if all goes right. Later in the week we will mount the shocks and its standing on its own. Then its back to finishing cage, start dash and console. Then mount body panels and teardown, paint and put back together. Then plumbing, electrical, drive shafts, exhaust and finshing touches. Then its smile for the camera time!!!:grinpimp: All while working on two other project rigs!

Again, thank you for all the positive feedback!!! We cannot say that enough...

Somebody has to be a dick, so I guess that'll be me. Cmon, this is the PBB right?:flipoff2:

You are obviously using a MIG welder, not a TIG welder, please stop trying to make it look like you are.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=334369&stc=1&d=1194188957

Why take the good work you are doing on design and cover it with shitty improperly done welds?

Welding in the manner you are has been beaten to death around here, search for thread title 'TACK" in the gen section for alot of reading on the subject. I like the way the build is going, and the attention to detail, but it lost all credibility in my book when I took a look at the welding. If you've been around the board for a while, then you knew someone was going to say something about it, the chance at a t-shirt aint gonna stop me from callin it. Sorry.

Guys out here on the East coast would have killed for a tub that clean!

Looks cool though

How much vertical seperation do you have with the rear truss setup? it looks pretty killer

I'm also loving the rear frame rails. They are pretty sexy. It's kinda making me rethink the rectangle tube that I was going to use for my project.

Good luck with it-I will be watching for updates.

Will they kill for half of a clean tub! We still have the one we cut off this body!!!! ha ha

I love all the original ideas being put into this! These are my favorites builds where everything is outside of the box :smokin: Also, keep pimping your stuff with your logo! I'd gladly put some of that sweet stuff on my rig, like those beefy link mounts!

I would definitely kill for half of a clean tub! My CJ5 is sitting in my garage without a floor from the tailgate to the firewall... I don't even know what's rust, bondo, or sheetmetal.

P.S. That rear frame is sick!

Somebody has to be a dick, so I guess that'll be me. Cmon, this is the PBB right?:flipoff2:

You are obviously using a MIG welder, not a TIG welder, please stop trying to make it look like you are.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=334369&stc=1&d=1194188957

Why take the good work you are doing on design and cover it with shitty improperly done welds?

Welding in the manner you are has been beaten to death around here, search for thread title 'TACK" in the gen section for alot of reading on the subject. I like the way the build is going, and the attention to detail, but it lost all credibility in my book when I took a look at the welding. If you've been around the board for a while, then you knew someone was going to say something about it, the chance at a t-shirt aint gonna stop me from callin it. Sorry.

That’s cool man! Your entitled to your opinion and I totally respect that. I will only respond to this once and it’s done. I have four children I love more than life itself! I would not have any and let me repeat that "ANY" concerns rolling this rig with them in it! I will bet my life on those welds! What am I saying! I have!!!!!! And I'm here to talk about it. Am I saying that I would build a bridge with this type of welding? Not hardly! I am not going to start beating my chest and defending our welds. And it’s not because we think we are above that, it’s just I realize your very set in your opinion and it’s not my place to try and convince you otherwise. Especially in a public forum. It’s cool! But we will not stop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1:)

I am pretty sure we never claimed or specified any weld types were tig or mig welds. Though we have tig'd certain areas on this build. But I don't remember even making the distinct comment. I am sorry if we did and they weren't. But when we are asked and I admit we are asked that very question from time to time we always tell the truth. We aren't into selling bull shit! Nor are we into building it either!

Thanks for your other positive comments though. Maybe we can wheel together sometime. And if one of our welds break I won't only let you weld it but I will ask you to weld it your way how is that! I will then get on here and tell the world you were right! Fair??? I think so....

I love all the original ideas being put into this! These are my favorites builds where everything is outside of the box :smokin: Also, keep pimping your stuff with your logo! I'd gladly put some of that sweet stuff on my rig, like those beefy link mounts!

I would definitely kill for half of a clean tub! My CJ5 is sitting in my garage without a floor from the tailgate to the firewall... I don't even know what's rust, bondo, or sheetmetal.

P.S. That rear frame is sick!

Thanks man. I say we cut the back off your CJ5 and use this partial tub and make you a CJ7!!!:eek: The first person to show-up and haul this tub away gets it!

Wow this thing is tit's can't wait to see the final project.... :)

The back half is awesome!:grinpimp: Great looking work, and your products look great as well. Keep the pics coming!

Nice build and excellent fabwork! Welding looks like your steady and more concerned about looks than strength...although it will probly hold up just fine. I love the dimple die work and the laser work. It would take a guy access to all the equipment you have access to to make this build happen.

Somebody has to be a dick, so I guess that'll be me. Cmon, this is the PBB right?:flipoff2:

You are obviously using a MIG welder, not a TIG welder, please stop trying to make it look like you are.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=334369&stc=1&d=1194188957

Why take the good work you are doing on design and cover it with shitty improperly done welds?

Welding in the manner you are has been beaten to death around here, search for thread title 'TACK" in the gen section for alot of reading on the subject. I like the way the build is going, and the attention to detail, but it lost all credibility in my book when I took a look at the welding. If you've been around the board for a while, then you knew someone was going to say something about it, the chance at a t-shirt aint gonna stop me from callin it. Sorry.

I think you've already proven thread after thread that you are a dick when it comes to welding so why don't you step off the soapbox because everyone already knows your OPINION! Clearly nobody who welds like this cares what you think because real world experience PROVES that when done correctly it is more than up the task of holding steel together. So enough already!
:shaking:

I think you've already proven thread after thread that you are a dick when it comes to welding so why don't you step off the soapbox because everyone already knows your OPINION! Clearly nobody who welds like this cares what you think because real world experience PROVES that when done correctly it is more than up the task of holding steel together. So enough already!
:shaking:


x2

That’s cool man! Your entitled to your opinion and I totally respect that. I will only respond to this once and it’s done. I have four children I love more than life itself! I would not have any and let me repeat that "ANY" concerns rolling this rig with them in it! I will bet my life on those welds! What am I saying! I have!!!!!! And I'm here to talk about it. Am I saying that I would build a bridge with this type of welding? Not hardly! I am not going to start beating my chest and defending our welds. And it’s not because we think we are above that, it’s just I realize your very set in your opinion and it’s not my place to try and convince you otherwise. Especially in a public forum. It’s cool! But we will not stop!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1:)

I am pretty sure we never claimed or specified any weld types were tig or mig welds. Though we have tig'd certain areas on this build. But I don't remember even making the distinct comment. I am sorry if we did and they weren't. But when we are asked and I admit we are asked that very question from time to time we always tell the truth. We aren't into selling bull shit! Nor are we into building it either!

Thanks for your other positive comments though. Maybe we can wheel together sometime. And if one of our welds break I won't only let you weld it but I will ask you to weld it your way how is that! I will then get on here and tell the world you were right! Fair??? I think so....



Fair enough. Like I said, I like the work you're doing and wouldn't mind checking it out someday, I just wont look at the welds.:D



I think you've already proven thread after thread that you are a dick when it comes to welding so why don't you step off the soapbox because everyone already knows your OPINION! Clearly nobody who welds like this cares what you think because real world experience PROVES that when done correctly it is more than up the task of holding steel together. So enough already!
:shaking:



So now when someone posts up something we're just supposed to blow sunshine up their asses untill they can light a room anytime they open their mouths? Remember that the next time you post a criticism to someones work. You know as well as I that when you post something you will get opinions, thats the whole point of posting in the first place. The origional poster hasn't been here that long, probably hasn't seen the discussions, so I told him where to search. Dont like reading my posts, then use your ignore button, if that dont work for ya then fawk off.:flipoff2:



x2


Same goes for you.:flipoff2:

A simple see thread (blah blah blah blah) for my concerns about your welding technique would have done just fine. Instead you spout off once again about welds looking "shitty and done improperly". It's a lame opinion, they've proven themselves in the hardest abusing motorsports out there, and he, being a professional, I'm sure knows about different welding techniques and the positives and negatives to them. I, and apparently others, find it annoying for you to take a dump on someone's thread with stupid opinions and over exagerations about "loosing all credibility". Everyone knows you have to have thick skin here but this board is definitely getting worse with people just acting like assholes just to be assholes.

I, and apparently others, find it annoying for you to take a dump on someone's thread with stupid opinions and over exagerations about "loosing all credibility". Everyone knows you have to have thick skin here but this board is definitely getting worse with people just acting like assholes just to be assholes.

Guess its so much better to take a dump on someones thread with an unrelated arguement. I posted a comment, the origional poster already adressed it, so it was done till you found the need to post up acting like an asshole just to be an asshole. See my last reply, hit ignore or fawk off.

I'm done with this.

Sorry for fawkin up yer thread Sniperfab.




edit: At least I got an idea for a new sig outa all this.

Somewhat back on topic......


Build me one of those front bumper/winch setups for a YJ and I'll be your first customer for it. Slick ass fab work.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=334184&stc=1&d=1194091120

Somewhat back on topic......


Build me one of those front bumper/winch setups for a YJ and I'll be your first customer for it. Slick ass fab work.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=334184&stc=1&d=1194091120

And I would like to get the next one

Damn I actually thought I posted last night but did not. Oh well, I love your work and it is definately out of the box thinking. Wish I knew about your orbital mount a few months back, simple and great looking. Nice job, maybe I will run into you on one of my treks to Clayton each year!!!!

Also I would buy the third front bumper winch setup if you make one for a TJ!!

If you don't mind.... What are you useing for a welder? As in brand thanks.

You make some killer parts.... :)

I see you are located in Yukon, OK and I have seen your Yellow CJ in Clayton before. I would like to talk to you about some tube fenders on your website....that are priced VERY competitively.

Keep up the :grinpimp: work...that Jeep is looking amazing and your welds look beautiful IMHO.

Awsome build! Keep the build and fab pics coming.

Dangit why didnt i post sooner! Those are sick t-shirts! I really like how you continued the style of the rear frame into the roll cage. Props on your designs. Your company should do well with all this stuff your making.

Sniper Fab
I was just on your web-site, you have some very nice product. I will call on Monday and order your trans mount tab and those double tab seat belt tabs. I have a BTF Chassis at the FU2 Shop, Bender is setting it up so I can travel at a high rate of speed, kinda of like a pre runner with all kinds of goodies (Pictures to be on the FU2 site) How near is Yukon to OKC? I'll be in OKC in a few weeks and would love to drop by the shop to check the place out.
Looks like you do some very nice work and would love to see it first hand.

Wow, a lot has gone on here since we left yesterday! I am not sure where to start. SFW has never done a public bulletin board before so we weren't sure what the response would be.

We will try to get to everyone that has a question about this build.

Everybody needs to understand that we have NO ego when it comes to our work (just an ego when it comes to our children) and in no-way do we think we are the experts. There have been thousands of incredible designers, fabricators, engineers, metallurgist, drivers, etc. that have come before all of us and they are the true pioneers. They have provided us with things from the wheel to the simple gusset and all the millions of things in between. We view the fabrication of vehicles as a form of art with required function and safety for obvious reasons. Especially large heavy 4x4 vehicles like this one that is more than likely going to end up on its lid at some point. But just like with art there are going to be those that love it, hate it or just don't get it! And that's cool with us!

But, I do feel it necessary as a business owner to make this one statement due to some of the debate that has shown-up in this build thread. We take safety and function very seriously here at SFW. As a business we have too. We engineer safety and function into not only our parts and the rigs that we build but also the equipment, machines, tooling, fixtures, tables, etc that we build and use here on a daily bases. We obviously have a very good understanding and education about all kinds of different manufacturing and production processes like, but not limited to, punching, milling, turning, forming, and most importantly WELDING. Make no mistake about it, in order to build a rig like this, you need to have some pretty good welding skills and certainly knowledge of several different welding processes. There is a lot of weld that goes into a build such as this one. And if anyone thinks that only one type of weld process can be or should be used on a build like this than they are simply mistaken. Now I could go on and on but I don't think this is the place nor do I have the time. I respect everyone’s opinion and understand that there are a lot of more qualified, experienced and more educated people out there in every facet of what we do here at SFW. But again we want to point out, SFW takes safety and function just as serious as anyone else.

As for those wanting to order parts or schedule to have some work done on your rig the best thing to do is call (405)265-3310 or email us at sales@sniperfab.com

Very nice designs and they show a lot of creativity.

This might be a dumb question... my mind is currently drawing a blank, but would the orbital mount work on a TJ. For some reason I remeber the firewall being different. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Nice build BTW. I like the the back-half with the dimple die action alot.

I dont think I like the rear frame "curling" and reaching to the top of the cage, but its def out of the box. Keep up the great work guys, love to see something new!

fawking sick work:D keep it up

a little off topic but what mufflers were those before the sawzall?

This is going to look great when it is finished!!! Are you planning on adding a lot more stuff to your site to sell? I will be looking for a new roll cage and rear corner panels with tube fenders next summer and will be building two dana 44s! :) Also, if you decide to give away any more T-Shirts, I would absolutely LOVE one...or two....or ten!:D

Thanks for the positive feedback guys! It’s always scary putting your baby out there for people to scrutinize.



Here are some pictures of the production orbital valve firewall mount. The one on the rig (hol'd out)was cut with SFW in it but we recognize not everyone wants to advertise for us so we replaced it with the diamond cut out. We will also be offering this unit in a universal setup for different length valve bodies. This one is for the standard size that PSC sells. The valve body measures 5.5" long.

I need one of these for my TJ build, and I have no problem advertising for you, I think the SFW looks better than the diamond. Think you will ever have one for a TJ? Sweet ass build by the way.

very nice work.

i for one like the frame coming up to the rear of the cage

I need one of these for my TJ build, and I have no problem advertising for you, I think the SFW looks better than the diamond. Think you will ever have one for a TJ? Sweet ass build by the way.

I would also like one for my TJ. Will you be able to make one in the next month or so.

very nice work.

i for one like the frame coming up to the rear of the cage

X2 I like the dimple die frame extension roll cage thing. Reminds me of one of those kid's toy buggies that flips over and keeps going.

Teenycar and SniperFab share a similar dimple die addiction. :D


Sniper Fab has some mad fab skillz (most of the welds shown were not tack-tack welds). Weld that shit up! As for the tack-tack drama...I agree with kwranglin, but that's a whole 'nuther thread...

Keep the pics coming Sniper Fab:grinpimp:

that is some badass work on that rig!

Man what a awesome start !!!!
I can't wait to see this thing when it is done.

DAMN! another quality fab shop in OK! your project looks great! its nice to see that we now have some choices for fab and products locally. keep up the good work, i might have to be calling you for some parts. got to support the okies!

If you don't mind.... What are you useing for a welder? As in brand thanks.

We have several different welders.

Production: Cobra push/pull for alum. - Lincoln Mig w/ext reals - Lincoln Tig

Custom Shop: Miller Mig - Lincoln Tig

Nice work man, keep up the good work.

fawking sick work keep it up

a little off topic but what mufflers were those before the sawzall?

They are custom build Stainless Steel mufflers from a guy out of Prescott, AZ by the name Rob McCabb. He does some sweet work on custom headers! He did a lot of work for Shannon Campbell on the headers he runs on the moonbuggies. Shannon now does them himself but Rob did the first few. He's expensive but does excellent work!

Somewhat back on topic......


Build me one of those front bumper/winch setups for a YJ and I'll be your first customer for it. Slick ass fab work.

__________________

We have been doing some work on the front bumper for TJs. We should have something for all you guys by the end of the week. We will post up some pictures when they are ready...

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/uctj/SniperTeeShirt.jpg


Got the T-shirt and stickers today. Thanks again SniperFab!!! Let us know when you start producing that front bumper for TJs..I want one.


Shawn

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=334220&stc=1&d=1194103225

I want one.... for 2" tubing. How much?

Got my T-shirt. Thanks

Those T-shirts are pimp. :smokin:

hey I was just wondering if you have pics from any other rigs you have built? It looks like you have some really sweet stuff...

Got my T-shirt this afternoon. Awesome!! I love how it's not the same old small logo front/big logo back t-shirt that everyone else makes.


Thanks again!!

This might be a dumb question... my mind is currently drawing a blank, but would the orbital mount work on a TJ. For some reason I remeber the firewall being different. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Nice build BTW. I like the the back-half with the dimple die action alot.
Yes, the orbital valve mounting bracket will work on a TJ. The only thing required is drilling four holes since the stock TJ steering column does not bolt at the firewall like YJ and CJ. Just use the bracket to mark your 4 holes. The stock TJ steering column can be re-used. There is a steering joint about 6" away from the firewll on the cab side. Just undo the steering column at that joint. With the exception of drilling the four holes this mounting bracket is an easier install on a TJ than it is on YJ or CJ.

Here are the front and rear cross-members for this project all welded and ready to install. They will get welded to 1.75" x .375 wall DOM. These are built 100% in house out of 5/16" A50 and formed across the back for mounting to 1.75" tube!! The joints are 1-14 heims with high misalignment spacers running 5/8 bolts.

These are the upper rear link mounts all welded. These are made out of 5/16 A50 plate. Since we are setting this rig up so low and it has a 1" body lift we will be mounting these to 5/16" plate that will be welded to the inside frame. This will allow us to mount these brackets up above the frame about 2" or half the height of these mounts. The rear cross-member will also be welded to the same plate on the inside of the frame.

I will post pictures of these and the cross-member mounted later.

so weight isn't an issue with this?

thats alot of steel kinda throws the practicality of a buggy out the window.

Sick fab tho i like it.

h much for the adjustablt steering coloumb.

h much for the adjustablt steering coloumb.


damn gina! put down the beer!


sick work. keep the pics flowing.

WOW !!!! awesome indepth build !!!! i love the products, and the fact you guys make your stuff in house.. thats not something everyone does...

so weight isn't an issue with this?

thats alot of steel kinda throws the practicality of a buggy out the window.

Sick fab tho i like it.

h much for the adjustable steering coloumb.

Ya, weight isn't the highest on the priority list for this build. This rig is not being built for comp. Just for wheelin fun!! Safety, strength, function, design, and then weight in that order. If weight was a concern we wouldn't have the back seat!!!:):):)

As for cost on the mount. We are new to P4x4 and not sure if we can put prices here. But it's on our online store at - http://www.sniperfab.com/products/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=214

hey I was just wondering if you have pics from any other rigs you have built? It looks like you have some really sweet stuff...
Yes, we have pictures of other rigs. We will be posting those pictures on our website in the next couple weeks once the gallery section is finished along with our forum... Join our emailing list to be notified when everything is up. We hope to have another 20 products added to our online store over the up coming holiday...

great build. But I searched your site and couldn't find the adj steering column?


Thank's

Love the build. Keep up the good work!

Jason

How do I get my hands on a t-shirt? I'll advertise for ya...

Great work!

Those T-shirts are pimp. :smokin:

x2

ah F those are some sick nasty welds

so weight isn't an issue with this?

thats alot of steel kinda throws the practicality of a buggy out the window.
.


My link brackets are 3/8". Link strength is not a place to compromise.

Looks great. When i win the lottery, ill be sending my TJ your way for a lil "overhaul". Keep up the pics, this is going to be sick!!

Nice work, are you going to run aluminum skins on the rear of the rig? How do you plan on tieing into the existing tub and floor?

Very nice build, I sent you a pm, let me know soon. M

this a sick ass project toy. youve got some cool products on the site. keep the pics coming.

Don

Any new pictures of the build? If not I'll be out in a few weeks and I'll take some and update the thread :D

-Ethan @ 4 Wheel Parts

Don

Any new pictures of the build? If not I'll be out in a few weeks and I'll take some and update the thread :D

-Ethan @ 4 Wheel Parts
Hey Ethan.... Ya, we made some more progress over the holiday after getting our new high-steer arms done. I will try and get some pics up by mid week of the progress. We got swamped the last few weeks with orders and I have been working on a couple other projects for customers. A few of the projects have provided us with some new products that we will be putting into production in the next week.

This may not be the correct place to post this but regardless. We appreciate all the great feedback everyone has given us on this project and the overwhelming support all of you have given with your orders. We recognize there are a great number of unbelievable fabricators on this forum (both professionals and hobbiest) and to have many of you provide the positive comments you have is truly humbling!!!! We greatly appreciate it!!!

We look forward to helping everyone and anyone we can with their projects!

Nice work, are you going to run aluminum skins on the rear of the rig? How do you plan on tieing into the existing tub and floor?
WideJ, To answer your question completely honestly, we are not real sure at this time what material we will go with on the back panels. It's a current debate on the subject. On one hand aluminum will provide a little weight compensation for the amount of heavy material we have put on this rig in the form of frame and suspension tie ins. And we will have the skins in CAD so we can cut replacements without any major issues when the aluminum gets torn up. But, on the other hand, I really like the idea of having a stronger material .125/.1875 to help protect the tubing and add strength by tying everything together especially at the very rear corner panels which aluminum really won't provide. We will be doing the rear inner fender wells with aluminum.

Regarding tying the new rear section into the existing tub, the back frame rails are totally even with the 1" lip of the former back floor we left at the cut line. So, the back floor will come right off that 1" lip and back across the rear frame rails to the back. We will bead roll the rear floor for strength. But as for material, it will be decided on in the next week once we get the scales under the tires and see where we are at before ordering our springs for the coil-overs!! That will probably be the determining factor!

Now, before anyone says it, yes I did make the comment to someones earlier reply that weight is really not an issue on this build. But we all know that once the important things are out of the way you start giving more thought to the weight of the littler things... Backasswards maybe, but everything seems to work out!!!:confused:

So stay tuned for the final results of the material debate. But, please feel free to give some feedback on what you would do as exterior panel material if this was your rig! Keep in mind we always like to hear what others real world results have been with different materials in different applications! What ever we end up doing is planned to start at the front fender and continue down the rockers and all the way around to the back panel!!! Most likely in two pieces per side.

sorry if I missed it. but how much for the tilt steering column?

crisp looking stuff you got there. Count me in for yall's steering mounts once I finally beat mine to death with a BFH (My Hydro Assist is turning out harder to get right than my 3 link)

Ya'll go out to Clayton often?

sorry if I missed it. but how much for the tilt steering column?

Umm yeah, how much?? I like the design of it, and would like to see about possibly getting one for a buggy I am building.

Umm yeah, how much?? I like the design of it, and would like to see about possibly getting one for a buggy I am building.

He's got a post going in the vendor section. Great guy, very good with customers and quick with responces!

Don

Get them pictures up! I'll see ya in a few weeks I have a few things I need built for my buggie. Bender may call you and order a few of the trans mounts for some other builds he is working on. :eek:

That’s cool man! Your entitled to your opinion and I totally respect that. I will only respond to this once and it’s done. I have four children I love more than life itself! I would not have any and let me repeat that "ANY" concerns rolling this rig with them in it! I will bet my life on those welds! What am I saying! I have!!!!!! A

I appreciate that you have a positive attitude about your welds so I won't comment on the reliability of this welding technique or not. I personally think it's retarded but do what you will. BUt you are fooling yourself if you think you achieved proper (or even decent) penetration in the following pics. And for teenycar, there is a big difference bewteen the way you have practiced this welding style and the way he has done it. I have done this and I make sure (and I think you have as well) that following welds at least cover half the distance of the previous weld so that there is continuity. You have some welds there that look good and a few that really need to be done. If you lo ve your kids that much, set your ego aside and redo some of that.

GAAAAAAAAAAAUUUUUHHHHHHHDDDDDDDDDDD...

If he builds this rig, wheels it, and the welds hold then STFU

If he builds the rig, he wheels it and the welds fail then point and laugh

But seriously... There's alot more to this thread than weld quality so give it a break

thats some sick fab work keep posting pics

I don't remember him asking for any feedback about his welds. I'm not choosing sides on this debate, but please don't turn this post into a welding discussion. There's too much other valuable information being discussed.

This thread has been very inspirational to me and my build. I appreciate all of the information.


.brit

Hasn't this weld issue been beaten to death by now. I am sure we all remember the tack, tack ,tack thread

Hasn't this weld issue been beaten to death by now. I am sure we all remember the tack, tack ,tack thread
you are right, besides i would trust tack, tack, tack over some of the booty fab 110V flux cored, no welding helmet used, gas pipe, harbor freight kinked up fabrication i have seen before...

keep it up.. i dig the cleanliness of your style

i would trust tack, tack, tack over some of the booty fab 110V flux cored, no welding helmet used, gas pipe, harbor freight kinked up fabrication i have seen before...



x2

Sick build keep it up,

Does Sniper Fab have a welder position available?:D

Great build and pretty amazing fabwork. With a cnc plasma you can get into a whole other level of building.

But I agree with the others, especially now that you're likely really about to get big--hire a weldor to help that fabricator. This is still the hardcore heep section, not the "coddle someone's balls" forum.

Besides we are(ate least I'm not) trying to put you down. I think we're trying to point out places you could improve, isn't that the point of posting pictures?

I'd endo that shit

I really like the dimple die chit, keep up the nice work
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=334376&stc=1&d=1194189205

your jeep is looking good. I'd like to see some more of the rigs you're puttin out of there. Any chacne they will be put on your web site soon? I heard you were huilding a tube chassis. any pics of that.

I appreciate that you have a positive attitude about your welds so I won't comment on the reliability of this welding technique or not. I personally think it's retarded but do what you will. But you are fooling yourself if you think you achieved proper (or even decent) penetration in the following pics. And for teenycar, there is a big difference bewteen the way you have practiced this welding style and the way he has done it. I have done this and I make sure (and I think you have as well) that following welds at least cover half the distance of the previous weld so that there is continuity. You have some welds there that look good and a few that really need to be done. If you lo ve your kids that much, set your ego aside and redo some of that.
We have already made all the comments we will make regarding the defense of our weld choices and weld quality. So, this is not a defensive response to questions or concerns about our abilities to weld. But rather an explanation of the questioned areas some feel are not properly welded. And in those peoples defense, we never explained the entire design and function of such areas or why we chose to stitch weld those areas.

So, first the location of the B-pillar tying into the frame section. First, what we didn't show or explain is the frame section in that area was cut with a hole in that exact location allowing for the b-pillar tube to be inserted into the frame and thoroughly welded (solid bead) on the inside and outside of the frame. We then stitch welded that 2" DOM sliced/fish mouthed tube around the 1.75" DOM tubing of the b-pillar for added shear strength. In an effort to minimize the heat zone of the weld area thus causing the material to become less brittle at shear points we used the welding method of stitch welding. Stitch welding is a VERY common welding practice used throughout all types of racing chassis builds. Most commonly used when production welding .125 and thinner chromoly where tig welding is a time consuming and inefficient weld process. So stitch welding is used to keep the effected heat zone to a minimum for keeping the chromoly material from becoming to brittle in that area. There is a big difference between what many consider to be tach welding and what is truly called stitch welding!! And since this is not a welding thread I will not go into the major differences.

As for the link bracket built for the 14 blt axle. In most builds (much like most of you) we only use a single tab on each side of the joint that is attaching to the axle. In this build we used two tabs on each side of the joint to make this unique link bracket which has tremendous gusseting. It has been welded (solid bead) to the axle on both the inside and outside of all four tabs per joint plus across the added top brace that is included with all SFW standard axle link brackets. The stitch welding we did, at the welding bench, of these additional gussets will not have much if any stress on them and stitch welding will be more than adequate for the specific job!!

We have no ego when it comes to fabrication!! Just when it comes to our children!! We recognize everyone has an opinion and we respect that!! So, we do not expect to be coddled or even praised on this or any other build we choose to post on this forum or any other forum. We totally recognize that there are a lot of quality fabricators in this world and on this bulletin board. We have a lot of respect and admiration for many of those fabricators!! We are not the authority on anything and support the creativity of all when it comes to fabrication! So, let it fly and we will sit back and be inspired!!!! And if there are any further questions about why we did something the way we did it on this build than simply ask!! No need to go and doubt or trash on something that is done with complete professional thought and design that you may not be totally privy too....:)

I won't comment on the reliability of this welding ......... BUt you are fooling yourself if you think you achieved proper (or even decent) penetration ...........

You can get a good look at a T-bone steak by sticking your head up a bull's ass, but wouldn't you rather take the butcher's word for it?"

You are fooling yourself if you think you can determine the strength, penetration, or reliability o......


....whatever, stfu and get back to mowing.

Just some quick shots of the ram mount getting ready to mount and the first stretch shots of the rear links.... More coming...

And before u chime in about the control arms. They are only temps (1.25"x.120 wall DOM with jam nuts tacked) just to get cut length for the 7075-T6 links... It will not see this kind of articulation. Passenger side rear tire was 2 inches from touching the frame rail and cage tube without even getting clode to binding anywhere. The shocks will not allow for this amount of flex...

And yes, the cross-member is within .04 degrees of level.. Just looks off in the pics because the right side tube (1.75" x .375 wall DOM) has about 3 degrees less bend due to clearance of the atlas sight tube fitting.

For reference the guy standing at the bench in the last shot is 6'3"...

Last one for know!!!

the ram mount looks sweet. How are you going to protect the ram from the rocks?

I appreciate that you have a positive attitude about your welds so I won't comment on the reliability of this welding technique or not. I personally think it's retarded but do what you will. BUt you are fooling yourself if you think you achieved proper (or even decent) penetration.

i guess this tack tack tack penetration was imitated w/ special penetration colored spray paint.... great work... i like your style...

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z148/draggbody/IMG_0279.jpg

i guess this tack tack tack penetration was imitated w/ special penetration colored spray paintI heard that was the newest product in the Sniper-Fab web store!

Don, it looks awesome. I can't wait for my big box of Sniper-Fabulous goodies to come in.

Question, are you going to offer a "kit" for the trans mount that will include the poly spacers? What you have on this build is almost exactly what I have planned for my mount. It would be cool if you guys could include the poly spacers and spacer holder bracket with your universal trans mount.

I love the way this thing is goin...I'm digging the ram mount, can't wait to see how it turns out. I'm not just being nice cause I got a free t-shirt either :D and thanks for that by the way...bad ass lookin shirt

We have ... totally privy too....:)I see what you mean about them being secondary welds so I guess it's not a big deal. One question though, how do you do all this nice fab work with all these guys swinging from your nuts?:shaking:

Tack, tack, tack.......................... Who's there? :flipoff2:

You can get a good look at a T-bone steak by sticking your head up a bull's ass, but wouldn't you rather take the butcher's word for it?"

You are fooling yourself if you think you can determine the strength, penetration, or reliability o......


....whatever, stfu and get back to mowing.

Nice Tommy Boy reference.

Tack, tack, tack.......................... Who's there? :flipoff2:
Hey Robert... Now, your talking about someone that can flat out weld. Here is a guy that can weld on any of our junk anytime.. In fact he has done some welding on this very project!!

Anyways Robert, I'm looking forward to getting together on some of your suspension bracket kits! See ya this weekend....

Don

Thanks for the "Teaser Shots" :laughing:

This weekend is not looking too good to get away. Who will be doing the welding for ya. Looks like that's going to be an important issue.:confused:

Nice Tommy Boy reference.

Hey, I'll tell you what. You can take a good look at a butcher's ass by sticking your head up there. But, wouldn't you rather to take his word for it?

No, I mean, you can get a good look at a T-bone by sticking your head up a butcher's ass, but then..no. It's gotta be your bull.

Man I really like this build, and your brackets are NICE. I hope to be ordering some link brackets soon.

Question on the frame, why leave the middle section of the frame and tube the rest? Simplicity of mounts and all? And on the front/rear sections, why double tube it, then plate it? Does the plating give THAT much more strength over a double tube frame like Ive seen on a lot of buggy builds?

Keep up the good work.
Kyle

looks awsome, can't wait to see it done. I like how you did the rear end BTW

Don, are you going to be at the Re-Grandopening of 4wheelparts in Moore, Saturday?:p

Don, are you going to be at the Re-Grandopening of 4wheelparts in Moore, Saturday?:p
What's the word on this?

Sorry, Grand Re-opening. Here ya go:

I'll see you there Robert. Going to be there for a little Skyjacker Pro-Mo....

Rain or Sleet or Snow!!!:eek:

Dave, i haven't decided if I'm going to load up the Sami because of the 3-6" of snow coming, but I'll be there to eat.:laughing:

I might drive by and check it out.

You can get a good look at a T-bone steak by sticking your head up a bull's ass, but wouldn't you rather take the butcher's word for it?"

You are fooling yourself if you think you can determine the strength, penetration, or reliability o......


....whatever, stfu and get back to mowing.
:laughing: great movie

Went to the 4 Wheel Parts opening and won a full set of Pro Comp shocks.:smokin: Where's the other builds ya'll promised in two weeks. Like to see the pix, it's been 4-5 weeks now.:(

Maybe I should post some of my builds, just so we would have something to look at.:grinpimp:

Went to the 4 Wheel Parts opening and won a full set of Pro Comp shocks.:smokin: Where's the other builds ya'll promised in two weeks. Like to see the pix, it's been 4-5 weeks now.:(
wish i'd have known about that. i'd have come out.

Any updates?

wish i'd have known about that. i'd have come out.

You are not allowed to enter any contest that will give away ANY free stuff!
You have reached your limit:flipoff2:

Just some quick shots of the ram mount getting ready to mount and the first stretch shots of the rear links.... More coming...

Sniperfab- will your front D60 ram mount support, or can it be reinforced, to support the upper links for a four link suspension??

Thanks!

You are not allowed to enter any contest that will give away ANY free stuff!
You have reached your limit:flipoff2:



:laughing:

You are not allowed to enter any contest that will give away ANY free stuff!
You have reached your limit:flipoff2:

:lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

I was just gonna come out and meet new people fawkers :flipoff2:

I haven't signed up for a giveaway since Christmas of last year, it just didn't seem right to do so. :p

Don any new pictures?


-Ethan @ 4 Wheel Parts/Compton :smokin:

just wondering if you have gotten anywhere wiith this thing yet, and I would dig some pics of any rigs you have done before.

any updates?

Even if you disagree with the welding method I don't think those welds would fail...The stresses are spread out, not focused on any one weld. Relax buddy, he's not building a nuclear reactor there!

I guess some guys are too thin skin for Pirate.:p

Well, sorry to everyone about be so late with these progress pictures. We are much further along than these photos show. These photos were taken back before christmas. It's almost ready for tear down and paint. These pictures will be the last posted anywhere until it gets back from paint. We have something special planned for its day bu that I am sure all you GUYS will dig!!! But we will continue to take photos throughout the entire process and post most of them here and all of them on our website by the end of the month. So you will not miss anything and you will be able to see all the pictures taken throughout the build in sequence. Until then, here he is::::

first pic is of the first flex shot of the front. We found some slight issues with running the narrowed D60 with our standard 4-Link brackets. So, we fab'd some new brackets and they worked out great. This thing when lowered to full stuff it sits lower then a stock TJ we have in the shop right now. We did decide to run the front drive shaft through a carrier bearing just to eliminate any issues once the rig really gets twisted and bouncing. Those are the 7075 T6 control arms that will be on the rig. They still need to be hexed on the ends which will be done during tear down.

Some more!! Cycling both front and rear looking for binding and for best shock location... We had no binding anywhere. But still a little to close on the front drive-line as we mentioned. So we are going through a carrier bearing and special stub shaft we already have made up! We cycled the suspension and turned tires all well beyond the coilovers actual limits so we should be good to go. We will have about 4-6 inches up travel and the rest all down running 14" coilovers. Again, the control arm brackets on the front axle in these photos have already been changed out with some one-off pieces.

I told myself I was not going to show these photos but what the hell. We have all seen shit in the process of of not being done!! These are some shots of the back reservoir mounts during fabrication. They also provide hella stout gusseting.

I guess some guys are too thin skin for Pirate.:p

HEY OKIE ZUK:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2: and :flipoff2:

Sniperfab- will your front D60 ram mount support, or can it be reinforced, to support the upper links for a four link suspension??

Thanks!

The dbl ended ram mount is not setup for link attachments. We have a front truss system that ties into the diff ring that we use for front upper four link attachments. The dbl ended ram mount can be incorporated into that front truss system if wanted. But, there is already a lot of side load being put on the ram mount by itself and we wouldn't want to attach links directly to it without providing some lateral support which is what the truss system provides. Let us know if we can help..

:d

The dbl ended ram mount it not setup for link attachments. We have a front truss system that ties into the diff ring that we use for front upper four link attachments. The dbl ended ram mount can be incorporated into that front truss system if wanted. But, there is already a lot of side load being put on the ram mount by itself and we wouldn't want to attach links directly to it without providing some lateral support which is what the truss system provides. Letus know if we can help..

Can you shoot me a pm with a price for something that will support the dbl ended ram and give me a place to mount my upper links. I plan on a double triangulated system for the front so I need a place to tie the upper links to the D60F (GM) front and mount the double ended ram. I could attempt to fab something myself, but I know that your design is way cleaner than anything that I could come up with my limited fabbing tools. I like what I see in the pictures. Very cool stuff:smokin:

OK, I lied... I was talked into releasing these photos today by my son! So, here they are.. This is an idea we got from the trophy truck guys awhile back. I realize that the time and tested shock truss made out of tubing works. However, we where wanting to do something a little out of the norm for a coil over truss on the front of this rig. I would like to go on record now, before I disclose what material it was made out of and get hammered by everyone, this is WAY OVERKILL. The majority of material is .25" A50 plate, .120 DOM and two small pieces of .125" sheet. If we were to do it over it would most likely be made with .1875" plate. Anyways, .25" was the material we had on the CNC table at the time we cut it and we try not to waste steel!!

This will definitely protect the entire motor carriage without a doubt! So, here ya go.

couple more shots of shock truss and some of the modified control arm brackets.

wow this is one sick jeep love the brackets for the links on the axles

i like it, sweet ideas

HEY OKIE ZUK:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2: and :flipoff2:

Don don't get me started...

good lookin' fab work. sorry to bring up the welding thing again, but i felt i needed to chime in on a few things... one, your term of stich welding is incorrect. the proper definition is a series of 3/4" or larger welds that run one after the other with equal distance between them. this keeps the metal from tearing due to stress. the second thing is, by "pumping" or "pulsing" the trigger of your mig gun, your putting tremendess stess on the contacts in your welder. remember they only have so many clicks. oh and by the way no down hill welds thats just wrong. one more thing just to sound like a dick, when you weld cromo. if you dont heat treat it after welding its as good as mild steel. looks good keep up the good work!

good lookin' fab work. sorry to bring up the welding thing again, but i felt i needed to chime in on a few things... one, your term of stich welding is incorrect. the proper definition is a series of 3/4" or larger welds that run one after the other with equal distance between them. this keeps the metal from tearing due to stress. the second thing is, by "pumping" or "pulsing" the trigger of your mig gun, your putting tremendess stess on the contacts in your welder. remember they only have so many clicks. oh and by the way no down hill welds thats just wrong. one more thing just to sound like a dick, when you weld cromo. if you dont heat treat it after welding its as good as mild steel. looks good keep up the good work!

:shaking:
Oh boy! GET THE POPCORN!

hes right if you dont re treat the chromo it is esentialy turned back into mild steel around the area that has been welded or had heat aplied to it

What portion of the chromoly is as good as mild steel? Are you referring to the welded portion only, I sure hope so? If so, so what? Should mild steel fail at the weld? Do you honestly think a properly designed and welded chassi should fail at the weld joint? People in the rockcrawling world are not using chromoly because of the ability to have a stronger welded joint. They use it because the span of material is designed to hold up better under bending, denting, rubbing, etc... This whole notion of needing to heat treat the joints after welding them to make chromoly worth while is complete bull and has been proven time and again in many offroad industries.

Don, Holy Shit! Man that thing turned out GREAT :D I like the bling bling...

I'll call you on Monday, I need some tabs cutt, and one more Trans Mount, Bender used mine on a rig he is buiding now.


-Ethan @ 4 Wheel Parts/Compton :smokin:

Don don't get me started...
So, it's ok for you too bust my balls in a public forum but I can't bust yours??? I see how you are...:p

Don, Holy Shit! Man that thing turned out GREAT :D I like the bling bling...

I'll call you on Monday, I need some tabs cutt, and one more Trans Mount, Bender used mine on a rig he is buiding now.


-Ethan @ 4 Wheel Parts/Compton :smokin:
Hey Ethan.. That's cool man.. We have plenty on the shelf. I will look for your call tomorrow. Tell Bender I'm sorry I didn't get the chance to call him last week. We are swamped but tell him to call anytime for anything he needs. I told him I would hook him up with whatever he needs in a timely fashion!

What portion of the chromoly is as good as mild steel? Are you referring to the welded portion only, I sure hope so? If so, so what? Should mild steel fail at the weld? Do you honestly think a properly designed and welded chassi should fail at the weld joint? People in the rockcrawling world are not using chromoly because of the ability to have a stronger welded joint. They use it because the span of material is designed to hold up better under bending, denting, rubbing, etc... This whole notion of needing to heat treat the joints after welding them to make chromoly worth while is complete bull and has been proven time and again in many offroad industries.

X2

Here's me parked on Brad Austin's mom's newly built Jeep from Clayton last weekend. Also saw Scott's tube buggy at Slim's shop, having his Rockwells linked up.

10 minutes later I watched Brad, spot her up Black Sheep Boulevard:

Here I got a phone call and missed Judy getting both right side tires up on the big ledge:

This has to be the lightest and lowest YJ on Rockwells I've seen. Brad got the airshocks setup right the first time. The rig worked flawless, first time out.:smokin:

This has to be the lightest and lowest YJ on Rockwells I've seen. Brad got the airshocks setup right the first time. The rig worked flawless, first time out.:smokin:
All of which was to be expected from a guy as experienced as Brad. It looks good!!!!! I just hope this project (Hol'd Out) comes out as good and works the first time out!!! Time will tell..

I've been meaning to call Scott and see where he was at in his build.. How's it looking?

By the way, I'm impressed you got your tire up on that 44" TSL!!!!!!!!:D

All of which was to be expected from a guy as experienced as Brad. It looks good!!!!! I just hope this project (Hol'd Out) comes out as good and works the first time out!!! Time will tell..

I've been meaning to call Scott and see where he was at in his build.. How's it looking?

By the way, I'm impressed you got your tire up on that 44" TSL!!!!!!!!:D

Scott's buggy is coming along nicely.

By the way, I'm equally impressed with your flex!!!!!!!!:D

Scott's buggy is coming along nicely.

By the way, I'm equally impressed with your flex!!!!!!!!:D
Wow, who is that fat, ugly bald headed dude standing in front of that good looking rig?

Ya, not bad for a 16 yr olds first rig. Daily Driver/Weekend Crawler. My son learned how to weld, bend tubing, fabricate, turn wrenches , wire and fire a motor, design and set-up suspension, body and paint work and definitely how to operate a grinder like a pro. Not to mention the most important thing, how to appreciate and earn something through hard work!!! It was some of the best father-son time. He and I will always have those memories of a good time building that rig and it worked just like it was designed to work.... And it made 4WD&SU magazine it's first time out!! Talk about luck or simply being with the right group!

Stay Cool,

DD

Don, the shock truss is pretty sick!!!!! I love the logo and dimple die!!!:D

Don, the shock truss is pretty sick!!!!! I love the logo and dimple die!!!:D
Thanks Tank, I am pleased with the way it turned out but like I said, we could have dropped down in material thickness and achieved the required results. It would have saved a lot in weight too! Oh well, live and learn.... I'm sure you noticed the hole less dimples in the back. That is the first time we did anything like that and I am impressed with how it turned out. Thats 1/4" A50 plate too. We are thinking of adding that process to some of our future products we are currently working on. It will allow us to run a lighter material and in places where you don't necessarily want holes, ie frame rails, but can benefit from the extra strength the dimple process provides..... thank you for your comments...

While I admit to like the build utilizing some of the forms of fab in other build industries. the truss, and the formed square tube. I also would have to jump on the bandwagon of the welds. There yours and you and the customer have to live with it. My point would be this, It can be done the way you are doing it with experience, But it is still not the proper way to weld. It can be a bad habbit to get into, and while you may never have an issue this is a public forum where you get the less experienced looking to learn. The less experienced person that has no clue goes and trys to perform the same result, could sereuosly get hurt because they may not have any idea of the correct way, but saw it once and tryed it.

Hey . . .
Are we gonna get to see the conclusion of your build? :)

Hey . . .
Are we gonna get to see the conclusion of your build? :)
Oh ya!!!!:D

While I admit to like the build utilizing some of the forms of fab in other build industries. the truss, and the formed square tube. I also would have to jump on the bandwagon of the welds. There yours and you and the customer have to live with it. My point would be this, It can be done the way you are doing it with experience, But it is still not the proper way to weld. It can be a bad habbit to get into, and while you may never have an issue this is a public forum where you get the less experienced looking to learn. The less experienced person that has no clue goes and trys to perform the same result, could sereuosly get hurt because they may not have any idea of the correct way, but saw it once and tryed it.

I hope the customer asked specifically for tack-tack shit welds - I'm sure he realizes that these bullshit welds take huge amounts of time, and are weak as fuck compared to one nice hot MIG pass.

I'd freak if it was my rig, and scream to high hell until you ground that shit off and had it done right.

This is not a welding thread!!!

If you would like to discuss the different welding methods we use then feel free to call anytime. Our phone number is listed on our website. But this is not the thread to do such and we will not discuss it here!!

*DISCLAIMER: THIS IS A BUILD THREAD AND SHOULD NOT TO BE USED TO LEARN HOW TO WELD! WE RECOMMEND YOU SEEK OUT THE EXPERTISE OF A PROFESSIONAL WELDER OR WELDING INSTRUCTOR FOR ADVISE AND/OR TRAINING ON PROPERLY WELDING ANY ITEM THAT IF SUCH ITEM FAILED PROPERTY DAMAGE OR HUMAN INJURY COULD RESULT!

I think it looks great man! i also think there might be a little bit of jealousy in this thread from a couple of readers. your the professional that owns a well known fab shop unlike some of the dicks reading on pbb.(so apparently you have done this a time or 2). some people read way too much.

I think it looks great man! i also think there might be a little bit of jealousy in this thread from a couple of readers. your the professional that owns a well known fab shop unlike some of the dicks reading on pbb.(so apparently you have done this a time or 2). some people read way too much.

x2...

The ones that are picking the welds apart probably don't even weld for a living.:shaking: I say get over it!!!!!:mad3: You own a your own business and you are a well known shop.

Any updates on the build?

x2...

The ones that are picking the welds apart probably don't even weld for a living.:shaking: I say get over it!!!!!:mad3: You own a your own business and you are a well known shop.

Any updates on the build?

x3 What a fucking asshat! :shaking:

What portion of the chromoly is as good as mild steel? Are you referring to the welded portion only, I sure hope so? If so, so what? Should mild steel fail at the weld? Do you honestly think a properly designed and welded chassi should fail at the weld joint? People in the rockcrawling world are not using chromoly because of the ability to have a stronger welded joint. They use it because the span of material is designed to hold up better under bending, denting, rubbing, etc... This whole notion of needing to heat treat the joints after welding them to make chromoly worth while is complete bull and has been proven time and again in many offroad industries.

agreed, most of the uses in this industry take advantage of the ability to span longer lengths with thinner wall tubing. also, unless you're using CRMO wire and welding to CRMO heat treating your heat affected zones is worthless. the weld is only going to be as strong as the weakest material, in most cases this will be the filler wire, and/or the mild steel that it's being welded to.

BTT on this.

I have to give major props to Don Davis of Sniper Fab.

I ordered his Dana 60F (chevy) front axle truss with new diff cover on Wednesday last week, and DHL is showing a delivery date of TODAY:eek: The Sniper Fab truss will support my upper front links and the double ended ram.

WOW! Thanks for the excellent service. I will certainly order other parts from Don and highly recommend to anyone on this board to give him a call.

Keep in mind I have had a front truss on back order with the 'other' vender on this board since Dec 12. and it was still at few weeks out from being delivered. That order has been cancelled. I realize parts like these are customs and take a little time to make up but 6-7 weeks delivery?? No thanks.

THANKS Don!!!! You definitely exceeded my expectations. :bounce:

Yeah, I use to date a girl named Dawn Davis :D Don I got my parts, I'll get them out to Benders place so we can use em' up :eek: Thanks Dude...

-Ethan

hom much for that same front bumper for an 04 tj shipped to 95610 thanks

BTT on this.

I have to give major props to Don Davis of Sniper Fab.

I ordered his Dana 60F (chevy) front axle truss with new diff cover on Wednesday last week, and DHL is showing a delivery date of TODAY:eek: The Sniper Fab truss will support my upper front links and the double ended ram.

WOW! Thanks for the excellent service. I will certainly order other parts from Don and highly recommend to anyone on this board to give him a call.

Keep in mind I have had a front truss on back order with the 'other' vender on this board since Dec 12. and it was still at few weeks out from being delivered. That order has been cancelled. I realize parts like these are customs and take a little time to make up but 6-7 weeks delivery?? No thanks.

THANKS Don!!!! You definitely exceeded my expectations. :bounce:



X10000 Sounds like we had the same problem but I ordered mine in sep. Now I've ordered everything from Don and I should get it according to DHL Monday. Now my heep can get finished.

THANK YOU DON !!!!

Hey Don-
Just wondering if you were going to post any pics of the other rigs you have done- I would love to see the other builds.
Take it easy

Very nice work..keep it up!

very nice work... ill be callin for some stuff soon!

really like it. tons of original ideas.

subscribed.

Morning Don: You must be getting very close to the completion on the build now. Ya gonna have it in time for the Big Meat Run????? Would be a good place for its maiden voyage.. Catch Ya Later....

Morning Don: You must be getting very close to the completion on the build now. Ya gonna have it in time for the Big Meat Run????? Would be a good place for its maiden voyage.. Catch Ya Later....
Well, I took a deposit on it so if the guy comes through with the rest of the funds I may only have it for the photo shoot??? When is the big meat run??

oh and by the way no down hill welds thats just wrong.

Wow, you're a fucking twit. Any number of processes can be used to weld downhill.

one more thing just to sound like a dick, when you weld cromo. if you dont heat treat it after welding its as good as mild steel. looks good keep up the good work!

Still a fucking twit:

Read this:
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/chrome-moly.asp

Then spend some time on google reading up on how to weld 4130. It's not a black fucking art, it's a well understood process by people that aren't you.

Normalized (annealed) 4130 has tensile and yield of about 90ksi and 80ksi respectively. Post weld heat treatment of a structure would give much higher tensile and yield strength with a concurrent loss of ductility. Ductility is a very important feature in roll cages. 1018 steel has tensile and yield of about 65k and 55k respectively. In it's annealed condition, 4130 is about half again as strong as 1018 which is an attractive choice for people with the right budget.

March 15-16 2008

See ya there Dave!

Don: Heard you was getting close on the Jeep. Any updates??

Wow amazing work, very creative. Very very nice.

01-17-2008 10:44 AM Ridn high :how much for that same front bumper for an 04 tj shipped to 95610 thanks

Here you go! This bumper is a knock off of the front bumper on Hol'D Out that several people requested for the TJ. More info can be found here:http://www.sniperfab.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=21&products_id=229

any way to order that with out the winch plate? or with the winch plate un drilled?

any way to order that with out the winch plate? or with the winch plate un drilled?
Yes, not a problem. When checking out on our webstore you have a comment section. You would specifiy in the comments to not have winch holes cut! It would be a special order and woud require a 1 week turn around but no additional cost.

These guys are awesome to deal with. I had a custom truss built for a Dana 70 and neglected to notice that the housing was 1/2" taller, so when it arrived it was about 3/4" too short. I called Don just to make him aware of it and that I would have a local steel shop copy his and make it taller. He told me not to and that he would bend up another and send it to me. That is badass customer service. My next order will have one of these bumpers in it.
Keep up the killer work Don.

They have been great to deal with so far. I ordered a full set of fenders with 3" tube flares for my TJ this week. Don has answered all my questions in a timely fasion. Thats more than I can say for some of the other vendors I have dealt with. I look forward to seeing the product.

-Eli

Does that bumper cover the steering box on the bottom at all? Anything you are going to do to protect that sucker?

Full hydro, thus no steering box...

Surely there is pix of this project done.:smokin:

Very nice! I'm planning on building a bumper for my TJ soon and you have a pretty good design, I'll be in touch.

finshed pic of the build please

x2

X one bazillion!

nice build i like everything about it SFW is the shit
now show us the pics:flipoff2: