Nothing earth shattering and definately nothing that hasn't been done before. But it's still a milestone in my project. The springs are SkyJacker 2" lift springs and the shackles are 5" and made from 2x0.5 flat stock. Spring perches were made from 2x2x0.25 sq. tube. In the picture below, there is no weight on the jackstands under the frame and full weight of the front of the truck is on the axle.

http://home.kc.rr.com/torc/scout/frontSOA.jpg

Front mount was made from 3x4x0.25 rectangular tube.
http://home.kc.rr.com/torc/scout/frontmt.jpg

Shackle mount was made from 2x2x0.25 sq. tube and 1.75x0.235 DOM. I cut a 1.75" hole through the sq. tube to recieve the DOM. I used Energy Suspension #2.2110G poly shackle mount bushings. These were 2.5" wide so I had to cut them down to 2" wide.
http://home.kc.rr.com/torc/scout/shacklemt.jpg

Lookin Good Man :D

I'm almost to the same point also

I finally got enough funds rounded up to get the yokes welded. That happens tomorrow.

Originally posted by Tim in Ks
Lookin Good Man :D

I'm almost to the same point also

I finally got enough funds rounded up to get the yokes welded. That happens tomorrow.
Having troubles paying your electric bill? :D :flipoff2:

Some fender trimming is in your future :flipoff2:

Lookin good :D

One week to hang a set of springs isnt to bad I guess :p

Originally posted by TORC

Having troubles paying your electric bill? :D :flipoff2:

LOL :flipoff2:

No problems paying the electric bill :p ......just can't run the welder and the air-conditioning at the same time. :nuke: But I'm taking the axle to a certified welder. :D :cool:

Question: Did you measure for the spring hangers with the weight of the truck resting on the axle? If so, how can you support the truck when the perch is not welded? Do you tack it on first? I have heard people say, "measure for the perch with the weight resting on the front, so you can know what you shackle's angle will be when the truck is on the ground." I just never got how to do that. I used math and just figured out where everything would end up, but not everyone does it this way.

Originally posted by Justin Messer
Question: Did you measure for the spring hangers with the weight of the truck resting on the axle? If so, how can you support the truck when the perch is not welded? Do you tack it on first? I have heard people say, "measure for the perch with the weight resting on the front, so you can know what you shackle's angle will be when the truck is on the ground." I just never got how to do that. I used math and just figured out where everything would end up, but not everyone does it this way.
Math works... another way is to guess at a spot, tack the shackle mounts on, put the weight on it and see where things end up. Then move the mounts and do it all over again and again untill you get them where you want them. I did it using the math method. I mounted the front hangers and put the springs in them. Then I put the axle under the springs and jacked it up untill the rear spring eyes contacted the bottom of the frame. Then gently jacked the truck on up off the jackstands. Then I tapped the springs a few times with a hammer to settle them on out and took a measurement from eye to eye. Then I used that dimension to calculate where to attach the shackle mounts. I was calculating for 15* and the shackles ended up sitting at 14*. Close enough for me.:smokin:

Originally posted by Justin Messer
Question: Did you measure for the spring hangers with the weight of the truck resting on the axle? ....

It's an SOA DAN, the gravity will keep everything in place as long as you don't take it for a spin around the block:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Might be a little harder on the moon

OK, I was waiting to see if anyone brought it up, but since no has yet, I will. In the picture below...

http://home.kc.rr.com/torc/scout/frontSOA.jpg

...you can see that the springs are not nearly as 'level' from spring eye to spring eye as a result of the reverse shackle and NOT using 'rock fangs'. Does anyone see any inherent problems with this? Let's hear it...:beer: :smokin: :flipoff2: :eek: :nuke: :rasta:

Originally posted by FlatBastard
Some fender trimming is in your future :flipoff2:

Lookin good :D

One week to hang a set of springs isnt to bad I guess :p
Oh yeah..... there will be some of that going on I'm sure. Just waiting for my wheels to come in so I can mount up the rubber and see how much fender has to come off. I drilled the perches with and extra hole so I can move the front axle forward an inch if I decide to.

Looks good, man. Doin' it right.

COLOR=red]...you can see that the springs are not nearly as 'level' from spring eye to spring eye as a result of the reverse shackle and NOT using 'rock fangs'. Does anyone see any inherent problems with this? Let's hear it...[/COLOR]

Well, I noticed 'em. Shouldn't be a problem with castor since you're gonna cut and turn, right? Mine are a little like that. I used Rancho 4" and when I built my "fangs" I made them a little shorter than the original shackles.

First, they ride better that way - just glides over small bumps. Unbelievable. My problem is, and it looks like yours may be too, the axle moves back more that way and it gets into the firewall with 33s. I beat the hell outa my firewall with a post maul. It helped a little.:smokin:

I'm going to 37s and I'm gonna have to move the front mounts forward to keep 'em off the firewall. How much, I don't know. I'm gonna mock it up with only a main leaf and cycle it to see just how far. I'll still keep the "fangs" short and lay 'e, back a little.

Originally posted by TORC
OK, I was waiting to see if anyone brought it up, but since no has yet, I will. In the picture below...

http://home.kc.rr.com/torc/scout/frontSOA.jpg

...you can see that the springs are not nearly as 'level' from spring eye to spring eye as a result of the reverse shackle and NOT using 'rock fangs'. Does anyone see any inherent problems with this? Let's hear it...:beer: :smokin: :flipoff2: :eek: :nuke: :rasta:

biggest problem will be the pitman arm hitting the spring at stuff... other than thay, as long as you cut-n-turn it to what you need (and it appears your doing that), should be just fine.

Who has "Fangs"??? My spring point is roughly the same spot as yours, but I did use the cut box tubing method.... potentualy stronger IMO....


Looks good :beer: :beer:

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite


biggest problem will be the pitman arm hitting the spring at stuff... other than thay, as long as you cut-n-turn it to what you need (and it appears your doing that), should be just fine.

Who has "Fangs"??? My spring point is roughly the same spot as yours, but I did use the cut box tubing method.... potentualy stronger IMO....


Looks good :beer: :beer:
I am going to yank that stock Scout pitman arm off and toss it over in the corner. I have a pitman arm off of a Waggy that I will ream out and use instead. By "fangs", I was referring to the designs I have seen that put the srping pivot bolt as much as 7" to 11" below the bottom of the frame rail. :eek: I will probably be moving the axle forward an inch or more to help with the firewall clearance issue. My wheels are supposed to come in this week sometime and then I can mount up the SX's and see how things are gonna fit (that is, as soon as I get the knuckles, spindles and hubs on thats). And yes I am turning the inner knuckles.

Kinda on the same topic.....

I'm at the exact same stage with my 62 Scout, and would like to know if anyone could offer any help in regard to setting up the caster angle after a spring over conversion (stock springs)

I need to set the pinion angle at the same time, so there are three angles that need to be set. I've been told that I should be running 3deg positive caster on the inners, 8 degrees upward pinion adj, and two degrees forward on the axle pads, due to the forward location of the locating pin on the stock springs.

Has anyone done this before, am I gonna mess my new (used) Dana 44 doing this?

Thanks in advance.

:confused: :D

Originally posted by iscout62
Kinda on the same topic.....

I'm at the exact same stage with my 62 Scout, and would like to know if anyone could offer any help in regard to setting up the caster angle after a spring over conversion (stock springs)

I need to set the pinion angle at the same time, so there are three angles that need to be set. I've been told that I should be running 3deg positive caster on the inners, 8 degrees upward pinion adj, and two degrees forward on the axle pads, due to the forward location of the locating pin on the stock springs.

Has anyone done this before, am I gonna mess my new (used) Dana 44 doing this?

Thanks in advance.

:confused: :D

Uhm... You make it sound so complicated.:rasta:

If you are using a CV driveline... Point the pinion directly, just under :D , at the t-case. If no CV... point it out eaqual and opposite to the angle the t-case is pointing.

Then tack your spring perches in and pull the entire axle to begin grinding the knuckles. When you are done grinding mount everything up again and beat on the knuckles with a BFH till you get them to 4 degrees.

Pull it all out again, weld it up and put it together for the last time.

--Josh:D

actually with a CV you want it pointing just slightly below the yoke on the tcase :) that way it'll turn up into it under power.

even with out a CV, screw it and point the pinion at the t-case anyway.


sure, its not "proper", and yes it can/will vibrate... but come on, its a 4x4 trail rig, it doesn't vib much, and is ALOT easier on u-joints.....


Both Hooper and I set ours that way, and really haven't noticed it being a big deal.

Besides, its doubtfull that with a SOA (expecialy with lift springs) you will be able to get "equeal but opposite" angles out of the standard u-joints..;)

Originally posted by TORC
OK, I was waiting to see if anyone brought it up, but since no has yet, I will. In the picture below...

http://home.kc.rr.com/torc/scout/frontSOA.jpg

...you can see that the springs are not nearly as 'level' from spring eye to spring eye as a result of the reverse shackle and NOT using 'rock fangs'. Does anyone see any inherent problems with this? Let's hear it...:beer: :smokin: :flipoff2: :eek: :nuke: :rasta:

Yes, there can be issues...sorta. My old set up was like this...the new one is a little bit better. The only issue that I found was that the axle wants to travel back at an angle more instead of up when compressed on that side. My Tires and fenders used to fight a lot..the fenders lost:(


Originally posted by mike
actually with a CV you want it pointing just slightly below the yoke on the tcase that way it'll turn up into it under power.

I think that in the front, it actaully wants to drop down when you get on the throttle.

Originally posted by Scout Dude

I think that in the front, it actaully wants to drop down when you get on the throttle.

Thinking about it you're right. Course, I see no reason for em up front. But thats me.

ok i see that the spring pad is easy to move but what about the one cast into the pumken?

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
ok i see that the spring pad is easy to move but what about the one cast into the pumken?
grind bs extra casting chit off, weld new perch on.

Lookin' good man. I'll have to swing by and take a peek sometime. I also can lead you to a complete Scout rear axle for free if you want/need some spare chit? there is a catch though...ICQ me sometime.

:beer: :beer: :beer: