now that im getting close on my parts collection and have the spare time to get poductive on the 4x4, i guess ill start a build up.

specs, 75 fleet side short bed

wheels/tires,
38 x 11 x 16.5 boggers
stock h1s, no recenter!
stazworks plastic inserts. buy stazworks they are awsome and fast!!!

d60 front,
ord arms, crossover+highsteer.
drw hubs.

plan to add hydro and locker of some sort.

14bff rear,
67.5" axle housing,
sky disk brake brackets,
detroit locker
4.5" iron hub spacers to match front axle width

plan to add, building rear steer, 14bff center with drw d60 outer stuff, almost complete.

350, probably 200-250 hp nothing gonzo.
roller rockers
eddy performer intake
rv cam
hooker headers, 2.5 exhaust

plan to add, tpi or aftermarket injection.

now have the 454 bbc,
500/500 eddy cam
eddy intake
super custom air cleaner :laughing:
headman 3/4 headers
250-275 hp


456/203/205

planing on doubler but not for now, twin stick.

done, now 3x stick

recovery,
8274
warn 12k out back

plan to add, 9.5k motor to the 8274 and some heavy mounts for tugging on stuck rigs.


first off i have to thank my buddy , skinny jason. without him i wouldnt have my motor, tranny/tcase, d60, the 52"s in front or the bitchen 56"s double shackle setup, basicaly 90% of my 4x4 stuff.

there a lot of people who i have boght the d60 parts from, mostly related to the rear steer. all are board members and have slung me down killer deals, thank you.
some preliminary and parts pics.

there is a few mods like the double shackle, the 52"s, and the high steer stuff that have been posted before, they were all done to my old 77 lwb and have all been transferd over to this truck. the long bed was a great truck just to long for the tires and wheeling i like to do.

im not planning on doing much tube work or outragous chopping but it i will be about 7" lift and 39" tires. will look more like a everyday truck than anything else. i want to base this truck around recovery and repair, will have a mounted vice and lots of storage for parts. with any luck ill score a welder and an air system capable of full air tool use, home shop type use.

Where did you find the 4.5" iron wheel spacers? You running H1's?

they came off of a ford custom dually truck, they are some sort of after market kit. back in the day you could buy dually kits from various places, these say "western truck" on them. i got them of a ford in the junkyard, i have seen a few more since then. they are a temperary solution to a few problems. i am going to have rear steer setup with drw stock d60 stuff but the thread that i discused these in i am trying to find a machine shop that could make the wheel hub a one peice deal to bolt on to the stock 14bff housing to match the drw d60's that will fit the stock h1 with out modifing. [whew]

my other related threads

the double shackle setup and 52" swap
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=466880

high steer tie rod the cheap bastard way.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=499094

rear winch mount
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=497191

the wide 14bff spacers and hub ideas.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=378828

i was busy today striping out the interior and dash.

i completely gut the the intire electrical in the cab, found out some pretty good info though. alot of the wiring that i thought was all blended with the main harness wasnt, chevy simply piggy backed the fuse block and made all of the extra stuff isolated loops that just plug into the front of the fuse block with single position terminals.

things like the windows and locks, variable speed wipers with the dash mounted switch, not the colomn lever, and a headlight/key off buzzer. i was able to indvidulize each system and put them back in line with my main harness and stuff. wha tmad eit really nice and easy was that each open slot in the fuse block has a desinct tab position and color coded ends that only fit in to the appropreate slots, i just had to match them back up.

i also got my old steering colomn back in which has a new key and tumbler and is a non tilt. along with that i put my clutch pedal hangers in and got all the dash re-assemebled.

another semi productive day.

i got the used/new windshield and my old rear slider.
i got the body poly mounts in and the front clip all mounted again.

its starting to look like a legal truck again.

today i picked up a runell rear bumper from big bad jeepster, thank you.

started hacking on it and getting the rear 12k winch setup again. it had an extra hole in the verticle surface i had to fill in but you would never know it if you saw it now. it was also meant for a 88+ truck so the frame widths are wrong, i got some 3/4" plate to space out and make it all work. not sure whether i should weld the plate to the frame or the bumper.

you can see how much i shaved off the bottom of the 14bff. if you look close you can just see the gasket peeking out. i probably cleared out 3/4-1" of lip off the thing and smoothed out any other potential hang up points

got the rear bumper and winch hung and completed, just need to wire and move remote box to safe area.

also got the engine bay rewired and organized. i need to get a new p-side battery tray but they are easy to find.

remounted the d-side battery tray .

cleaned out the bed to get started on the blazer gas tanks mounting. kind of sucks, the damn thing is to tall and to wide to fit between the frame rails so it will stay 100% in the bed. i was going to build a box to cover it out of another truck floor pan but that will take up to much room and create storage problems later. i came up with a preliminary idea for now, i am going to build this god awful huge cage, storage, deck system out of expanded steel and angle iron. talk about stepping over dollars to pick up dimes :shaking:.

today 6d11 came over and helped/mounted my boggers on my h1 wheels. they turned out pretty nice and because of the drw hubs/spacers sit exactly where they are supposed to.

trkklr, I really like the rear mounted winch. Put one of those hinged license plates off an 80s cutlass, people wouldn't even know you had a winch there! :smokin:

a lot of people use pvc or mag flashlight mounts to clip to the rollers, but tweaker would steal it asap for the stickers.

looks awesome any details on where you bought spacers or better shots of the winch mounting?

the spacer i got from pnp, they are from a chassis company or a dually conversion kit from jcwhitny or something, ive seen them a few different time at the yards so you just have to keep an eye open.

if you look at the pic of the bumper on the ground youll see the mount holes drilled. its just a flat plate on the back side. i did have to notch out a 1/2" in the bed sill for the whinch body, if you have a normal size winch it shouldnt need it.

is it done? looks sweet

not yet, i still need

front bumper
drive shafts
rear cage/bed/storage system
mount fuel tank
better tires when the right deal come a long
rear steer 14b[i just got another d60 for parts]
on board gear, welder, compressor, vice and mounts and tanks.

i might want to make some sort of boom for lifting and loading, just not sure how to do it.

damienhellfire gave me some h2 rocker step so i may try to mount them as sliders and steps.

Any way we could get a lower picture of how the h1's sit over the brake rotors and the steering arms from the front im interest in doing the same thing on a customers truck. thanks Ryan

i do have that pic, but i tell you now that they dont even come close to touching squat.

its like haveing a 3"b/s wheel.

its even farther out than i though.

O perfect thank you. Now I just have to find some kinda rear end setup to match. do know the wms on that dually front?

all chevy drw are 77.5"

dodge are 75.5"

Looking good TRKKLR :) Makes me miss my old C10 on tons. But looks really good.

Seth, you have a bender? If not just bring over some 1.5" and some beer and we can go to town if you will be needing anything bent ...


Taylor

small update. a few months ago i found a 10spl 203 and adapter at pnp, i pulled the range box and stached it but becuase i could only aford the adapter at that moment, when i went back the next weekend the vehicle i had stached the range box in was crushed and gone :mad:, at least i got the adapter.

fast forward to today, i was trying to sell some stuff for a buddy and it turns out he had a 10spl 203 so i scored it for $50 .

now all i need is the plates and 205 input from ord or northwestfab.

:smokin:

Looking good TRKKLR :) Makes me miss my old C10 on tons. But looks really good.started to correct you, then realized, wait, it was a c10 on tons. :flipoff2:

started to correct you, then realized, wait, it was a c10 on tons. :flipoff2:


According to the title it sure was rotf.... :lmao:

btt,

its been awhile since ive done anything to it but now that its light out when i get home i have time to work on it again, i finaly got my own welder, i have a camping trip that this need to go on, and i have cuaght up enough on my money that i can buy parts for it.

i got some steel frames that are being used for my bed box setup, they are 1/8 x 1.5 x 1.5 angle iron and 1.5 x 3 box tube. i got 2 of them and they fit perfectly, i sandwiched them and used a few pieces of the box to seperate them. its 9" deep which is really cool because its exactly the right size for 30/50 cal ammo cans, and is exaclty the right depth to sit on the wheel wells.

i grabbed a new tranny/tcase mounts from foa and got that in and set, now i can weld my axle in to the right * for the ujoints. i also put my second cross member and tcase skidder in so now that case is protected for rocks.

i also was able to get the exhaust put back in, a few new bolt holes and it will be hung.

i am going to use the blazer tank that was originaly in between the frame rail out back[that spot is now occupied buy my 12k warn]. it will sit under the front p side corner of the cage and have its own door in case i ever need to replace or access it. i will also be able to fit my air compressor in the same space so that solved.

i need to re up my redstar so when that gets cuaght up i will post more pics.


my camping trip is at the end of april, i dont see any reason why this cant be ready, but who knows i get disstracted and r a lazy fawk.

Looking good. I'm looking forward to seeing your rear steer.:smokin:

arrg , finally got my star back and my pic down loader fouled so i only got a couple of pics in.


here is the bed with my rack frame and tank mounted, leaves exactly enough room for jerry cans in the corners.

the frame as veiwed from the top, and the plan for the doors.


i spent today welding strips of 1/8" flat stock to the bed rails and head board, no only to stiffen every thing up but it will give me a place to mount my filler neck and headach rack and rails.

yesterday i stopped at pnp and grabbed a filler neck from a blazer and the charcoal canister to vent my tank. now i need to cut a hole in the bed to pass my lines trough and run new hard lines.

i got the pic thing figurred out so heres the rest.


an empty bed? i have never had a truck with a completely empty bed, well it wont last long.


the tank mount.

the rack in place.

how it sits for now. you can even seen the dual cross members, i didnt think they sucked up so tight. they arent flat belly but it will work till i get the doubler stuff.

Looks good man :D

looks good...high weight but should stiffen up alot

got the filler neck fitted in and the locking cap coever made up and installed.

you can see the strips i welded to the bed rail.

today, today, today, what did i do today.....................................



















oh yeah, i orderd my hummer inserts!!!! stazwork says they will ship on tuesday.

laid some more weld today. 3x welded the spring perches for the 14bff.

3 layers on the out side and one layer inside as far in as i could get.

they are a little boggery but the they laid nice, not all bubbled up from not digging in. the tubes did discolor abit so i know i was getting good heat into the welds and the tubes.

i want your opinions though, i am not a proud man so if you honestly think they need to be redone i will pull it all out and have skinny jason do it for me. he has a much much stronger welder and a lot more hood time than i do.

laid some more weld today. 3x welded the spring perches for the 14bff.

3 layers on the out side and one layer inside as far in as i could get.

they are a little boggery but the they laid nice, not all bubbled up from not digging in. the tubes did discolor abit so i know i was getting good heat into the welds and the tubes.

i want your opinions though, i am not a proud man so if you honestly think they need to be redone i will pull it all out and have skinny jason do it for me. he has a much much stronger welder and a lot more hood time than i do.

Those welds are "shite!"
Thats not a misspelling, but an old Scottish expresion.

Those welds are "shite!"
Thats not a misspelling, but an old Scottish expresion.

They are not that bad, although one zig-zag pattern pass should be sufficient with proper penatration.

i showed them to skinny jason and he said they should be fine as well.


if i hada stonger welder i would have let a single go but i have a weldpak [not the home depot one] and i just wanted to be certain.

If your weldpak is set up for gas, go for it, you will definitly like the results. No more spatter.

If your weldpak is set up for gas, go for it, you will definitly like the results. No more spatter.

Flux core penetrates better, which is important on a small welder.

True. But if you stay within the capabilities of the MIG, its way better looking.

i keep hearing one is better, mhe, the spatter looks like shit and half. i wish i had the gas hook ups.


today it will be stock type shock mounts that are raised up flat to not drag. the shocks i have are for like a 8-10 lift so there is plenty of droop left in them.

my wheel inserts showed up today!!! :bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce:

the only disapointment was no staz stickers:sad:.

im going to see if i can knock a few out tonight and get some pics.


edit, didnt get shit done tonight, spent too long here loooking for the tourqe specs them killing time in chit chat, then i couldnt find my valve core remover so i get good pics tommorrow.

i keep hearing one is better, mhe, the spatter looks like shit and half. i wish i had the gas hook ups.


today it will be stock type shock mounts that are raised up flat to not drag. the shocks i have are for like a 8-10 lift so there is plenty of droop left in them.

Gas is undoubtedly better; your weld area is shielded. To get better weld penetration, heat the area with a torch first.

Nice build.

i love stazworks!!!!


these things are fing awsome!!!

they are slick so with just a little water they slip right in.
they are thick as all hell.
the edges are tapered to get a full face seat and give even presure on the bead.
they have 2 3/8 holes for the air to pass through.

i was able to air down, break down, insert, reassemble and air up in 20min each. and thats not paying attention and doing other stuff at the same time.
they all seated perfectly and didnt leak a bubble of air.

for the record.

grease makes it real easy to set the oring in place,

tourq to 55, then 65.

the centers for boggers are 7" wide. you have a choice and i figured 7" instead of 6.9" so i could grind them down if needed, they didnt have a record for the 38-11" boggers.

ive been doing some of the easy shit lately, brake lines, small wire repairs and little stupid stuff. ttt for a buddy.

ok, the camping trip is in 2 weeks and i am out of cash to finish the rack, so thats out for now, no biggy.


i need to hang the exhuast tabs, easy

clear out a peice of sheet metal to connect the fuel lines, easy

cut a hole in the bed to pass through fuel lines, easy

bend remaining fuel lines, med. there is a lot of ways to screw this up so it will take some time.

carb and dist, easy

shorten front drive shaft 1.5" and cleance cv body. i can do it and have it come out straight.

need to free up rear drive shaft from my other truck and trim/fit that, easy/med.

oils and soft breather lines, easy.

problem, i have one weekend and 8 week days to do it, crossing fingers.

looking really good so far. I like the hummer wheel idea.

Your truck looks like it's coming along fine. I have some recenetered and widen hummers,from USA6x6 wish I would have got Starzworks.Keep up the good work.:D

i have been fighting what i thought was a done deal for the last three days, the brakes.

they all worked when i tore the axles out from the 77
they all worked on the 75 when i tore those axles out.

i didnt hooke them back up till this weak so sometime between now and last year the prop valve seized, the old rear calipers seized, and the m/c shit out. well at least im going to stick with that story.

i couldnt get any line presure to the rear cals. the front were fine, i had flow and plenty of fluid but couldnt make presure. warrenty swaped the cals and that didnt do it, so i stopped and grabbed a bunch of props and masters from the junkyard and sat down with them and very carfully picked the internaly cleanest combo i could find. wound up with a 80's 1ton hydroboost master with a 1-5/16" bore and a prop from a 3/4t burb.

as far as i can tell there is 3 types of prop valves,

one is machined brass block
the other two are cast but have 2 differnt types of plug ins/switches, year related.

everything is in working order now.

I got a hydroboost off a 81 ton,Which prop valve do I need to use?:confused:

honestly couldnt tell or find any reference to whether one had more or less bias over another. like i said i just grabbed the cleanest one that had the correct wire terminal.

cut the tips off the front fenders and found a 10y/o 3/8 ratchet, 3/8x1/4 adapter and a 3" 1/4" extention:rasta:

cut the sheet metal panel blocking me from connecting my hard fuel lines and cut the hole in the bed to connect the fuel lines.

yanked the front drive shaft to have it shortend. now i have a dicision to make, do i.......

run the shaft with the realy good condition SHORT BODY YOKE MOUNT cv joint. its an after market shaft that blazer justin found at pnp and gave me. it need to be shortend 2" to fit at full stuff, which will make it it way too short for my suspension droop. if i add a long travel spline to it it will probably be wasted do to the short body cv, even if i clearance the hell out of it.

or

do i have a long travel added to my semi worn LONG BODY FLANGE MOUNT cv. the tube is way to short to reach now but a long travel wil fix that no sweat. the long body cv's are the shit once they are clearenced for flex. but in the end it is semi worn out. i would like to get it rebuilt but that and the long travel are too much$$$$.

what do you guys think?????????????????

Looks awesome......Those bed racks look pretty sweet to....Nice clean build.....

it was an expensive day today, but it will be the last $$$ day till i order my doubler.


first thing a.m. this morning i ran up to driveline services in west sac, left behind my front shaft and brought home a new d60 1350 yoke. 2pm i went back and picked up my newly moded front, long slip, let me say it again lllllllllloooooooooooooooooooooong slip, the damn thing is like 18" of stroke!!! with the 1350 on it and a high clearanced stock, now rebuilt, cv.

bent up the rest of my under cab fuel lines.

skinny jason sand blasted my last h1 to get the nasty gov paint off so i could paint it somewhat nice.

filled the diffs with oil and added new breather lines.

cleared out a few brackets to make room for my exhaust hangers.
4days :shaking:

when i was at pnp the other day grabbing master culiders i found a new 100amp serp drive alt, so i grabbed it, got it retapped and a v pulley on it.:)

i ran a few more small peices of soft fuel line only to find out i am still a few fittings short. :mad3:

i stole the rear drive shaft back from my street truck only to find out that its is still to long, it goes to the shop tommorrow :mad3:

imounted up a stock steel front bumper so i have something to go on the trail with. its a 80-87 bumper so it uses different brackets than what i had before, which is really helpfull because after the 52" hanger swap i lost all my mounting holes and surface. these are basicaly a frame sleeve/extetion so i weled them on, now i have something to work with later.:)

qjet back went on instead of the holley.:)

i am down to about 18-24 hours of work time before i have to leave :fingers crossed: x 10

more small shit done.

bent up the hard line from the pump to the carb. system is plumbed.
vbelts
exhaust pipes bolted up
clutch linkage and a custom hole cover palte, not just a rag wrapped around it and stuffed into the floor board any more.
fan and rad hoses.
oil presure line hooked up
............


hopefully i can prime and fire the motor tommorrow, if i can that means test drive............

it is ready to fire.

dist and wires
oil primed
water added
header gaskets

tommorrow i will drop in the battery hook up the starter and see what happens. worst comes to worst i will take off thurs and finish up any major ooops's but all is looking like im going to make it, ;)

Sounds like you got it going on!!Wish you luck:D

welp...................








it fawking starts, runs, and drives!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!:grinpimp:

it rough ass hell becaus ethe boggers are flat spotted from sitting so long

the wiring is completely whacked out, no dash lights, no power windows, no wipers, when you pull the head lights on the high beam lights are on low, the temp and volt peg out, the blinker lights come and go as they please. i think its just ground issues, seeing as how the cab isnt grounded to the fram or motor, just the bat to motor and core support.

the clutch needs to be adjusted

the hydro boost monster bore m/c feels alittle short on travle but it stops nice and with little effort, i could put a smaller bore m/c in and be happier. we will have to see what happens when i put the rear stear in with the huge d60 calipers at all four corners.

yea!!:bounce:

fuck you guys........................
















im going camping! :bounce:

got the lights and wiring worked out, it was just ground that i hadnt yet reattached.

clutch is adjusted.

fuel guage is hooked up the correct way this time, so it works now.

since i couldnt get the bed rack finished i made a bs cove frame for the gas tank, just something to hold my spare.

i miss my long bed bed now, with my tool box and gas tank there isnt even enough room for the spare in the bed.

Looking good man. Nice to see you gotta er done with limited time.

back from camping.

shake down run was pretty smooth, not pefect but nothing major.

i must have got some of the waterd gas thats been pumping around the sac area last week, on the way up it ran horribly. under powered, starving and sputtering, lots of down shifting. at camp i was mostly in g and 1srt gear so demand wasnt to bad but on the way back i put some more fuel in from a differnt station and it ran great.

my 14bff axle shaft bolts came loose enough to leak a little oil but none fell out or any thing.

pretty good tire wobble and shimmy, realy cant expect much from fubard boggers that arent ballanced in any way.

the good.

i fawking wailed on it and it didnt even hickup. yanking fallen trees back to camp, pulling a truck out of the snow, and crawling into rock piles it was just awesome. the qjet was flawless, the new frotn drive shaft was great, the detroit worked out beautifuly......

it was great, unfortunatly i didnt get any action pics because i was doing the action and everybody was working on cutting and loading fire wood.

the first two are pulling dude out of the snow and the valley veiw from the top of a peak. the last is a bad pic but its one of the ALLREADY CUT DOWN TREES THAT ARE FAIR GAME tha i dragged back to camp, small end was 24" and the big end was 30-36" and about 40' long. it was just about everything i had in low and granny to drag it but i made it, now we have benches and fire wood for the next 2 years waiting for us.

i got some carb issues now, its spewing fuel out of the accel pump and what i assume is the bowl vents.


either way the trucks going to come apart some, im getting my wish. im selling my 2wd but i am keeping the mild bbc and my 350 is going along with it. so all i need is a fly wheel and maybe some headers and ill have my true 1ton swb.

very nice truck, looks real good. Are the jerry cans just places there? Does anything hold them in?

not yet, im not sure exactly how im going to do theat yet.

sweet lookin truck!!

i've got one quick question although i might'v missed the answer...i read you've got the 52s up front...are they stockers or lifted one? and if so how much lift?

stock, with 2 extra layers and the overload cut down short.

i also have 5.5-6" shackles in the stock location.

I checked and I didnt see if you mentioned moving the front hangers for the 64 in springs. Is that why you moved the fuel tank to the bed?
I was considering a 64 in rear spring swap on my shortbed. But Im not sure I wanna relocate the fuel tank. The front hangers are real close to the tank and Im not sure if you need to move them to keep the stock wheelbase.
Did you move yours forward?

I'm impressed. Nice truck:smokin:

i dont have 64" springs :confused:

thanks for the compliments guys, and bebe :)

Oops. Then what springs are in the rear? They look low and flat. Thought they were 64 s.

there is a link to what i did on the first page.

its a stock 56" rear with a shackle flip.

i got the 454 out of my street truck so now i need to pull the front clip and 350 from the 4x4.

i scored a th400 205 today at the pnp, so now i dont need to mod my 205 case just do th eshift rails. the doubler is getting closer.

I dident know you had a build thread...............you forgot about all the thyme you spent on polk street dressed like minnie pearl to make the extra $$$ to build this one :flipoff2::flipoff2:


here is the link to the spacers I was telling you about. Your thoughts?
http://www.arrowcraft.com/index.php

they look like mine with extra gusseting. no price listed so?$?$?$?$?

they are also machined and not cast, mine have piss poor material thickness, there are some of my lug nuts that i can only get a open end wrench on :sad:

i got my fly wheel and the clip off, i should have the motor out and replaced some day this week. with my o/t days i dont get home till 8-8:30 so i dont get much time to work on it.

well the motro is out and in the 2wd again. which means the bbc is free to move in as so as my new clucth for and pivot ball get here.....


my clutch fork, the same one i salvaged from pos in the pnp yard 6y/a is toast. it is so worn out that the cup the pivot ball sits in is worn so thin it started to peel oout of the fork.

the pivot ball looked like a mushroom when it went in with the bell housing, now it looks like half a mushroom.....

anyways..........



the bbc is a 80's 2bolt with a .500 x .500 eddy cam, eddy intake, rebuilt qjet, hooker comp headers, 100 comero/caprice alt. skinny jason [who i bought it from] rebuilt it and hogged the peanut port heads out a touch. it passed smog with all the correct gear cleaner than the tester had ever seen a bbc run. skinny jason figure 275hp, hauled ass in the 2wd.

the 350 ran great and it was another of skinny jasons motor that i have been beating on for years, but this truck needs bbc grunt.

Very Nice truck. I just read the build up.
-Lance

I like the truck, I hope to do a build like this sooner or later once I get the money.
~Kenny

nice build man, big blocks for everyonre

thanks guys. im trying to get the 2wd finished but with all my o/t i dont get much time to work on it right now.

i finaly got to start banging away on it at 10pm and now the bbc is sitting in place. now i have it taken care of i can throw the front clip back on it and roll it back into the street to make a little more working space around the 2wd. tommorrow will be spent on the 2wd 100%, i should have it up and running by tommorrow night.

the 2wd got completed and sold off to bmerideth, he likes it as much as i did. i also used some of the money from him to buy a new to me dd, a 87 turbo 4runner. much much nicer than the 94 old cutlass cierra, that thing was pussy repelant!

i got the bbc fired up again today and took it for a open header lap around the block.

i had to get different headers because of the weird design hooker used, so i bought some used jet coated headmans from scottyfish. the hang down lower than the sbc ones did so i will need to get the exhaust redone some.

well the yota shit the turbo so i had to get it wraped up and driveable for tommorrow.

$200 at the exhaust shop
my insurance just went up 25%
and $645 at the dmv, BECAUSE THAT WAS ALL THE COMPUTER COULD HANDLE BEFORE IT SHIT OUT!!!!!!!:mad:now hopefully they will send me my reg or i will have to go in for round 2 of rape-age


but it is street legal and is 100% wheel able, man the bbc is noice to drive!!!

its been awhile since i have done anything because of the o/t situation, but that taken care of and ive had this week off.

i mocked up a bumper and took the patterns downs to be broke out and cut out cleanly.

i have developed a horrible dath wobble to to my rear hanger upper bushings being completely destroyed, so today i fabbed up a steering stabilizer mounts for a high steer setup. its a single mounted to the pside leaf plate. it sits dead level with the tierod. i will make a pattern available to whoever wants it.

pics tommorrow.

Beautiful short bed.

I miss my 76 K10 SOOO bad... :(

Thought I was SO bad ass on my 31s. :laughing:

Keep up the good work.

-Chris

bracket pics. if anything is unclear speak up, i will get more pics or measurements

Nice design for the stablizer.
I like it, looks clean.

i sent the pattern of to diy4x, maybe he'll make production on them.

i dont think ill get any hang ups with this hitch......

got my peice back from the fab shops.

i bought a sheet of 3/16 steel from toddw and used it as a table top for my welding table, left me a 36" x 49" peice. i laid out a plate type bumper out of card board and went to town. i wish i had a press break so i could have done this my self but they shops i took them to did good enough, hell i going to bounce rocks, cars, and trees off of it so small mis-alignments wont be the end of it. i will make the patterns/dimensions available when i am finished.

it 5 peices in all. the outer portions are metal i had to bye because i didnt have big enough peices left over after the center was broke out.

got the other end cap on and the scrap trimmed off. i fully welded inside and out.

i really like my new welder, while it isnt the miller 210 i almost bought but it is realy kicking ass with the medium stuff that i do. i bought a lincoln pro mig 140 from lowes. i almost bought the 180 but the extra $120 plus the $100 in power cord that i would have needed and they didnt have put it too far for me to justify. i will pick up a gas cylinder when i kill the flux core spool i had to buy to finish this project.

pics tommorrow

got the welds smoothed out and the brackets made up and installed. i need to trim them so the bumper will sit back farther, i will also need to trim/cut out a good portion of the valance to clear the winch when its in.

i went and registerd my toyota on friday, while i was there i asked about the chevy.................





its all clear and they are sending everything to me:bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce:






i trimmed the bumper brackets back and shoved the whole thing up tighter to the grill, looks much nicer.

been busy still,

orderd a shit load of parts, some have started to trickle in.

got and installed my diy4x shackle hangers. very pimp, the mount holes lined up with zero mod!!! one thing that i was unawear of was that you need to waller out the large hole some for the hanger to fit, not much that a die grinder couldnt handle but it was a surprize none the less.

got 4 d60 k/p rebuild kits, 2 are for the rear steer 14bff[some parts i was flat out mising and just eaier to get this way] now i just need the k/p tool to do them.

bought another pair of ord arms from FRIZZELFRY for the rear steer.

started to prep the 14bff rear steer.

got the knuckles and rotating hubs all rebuilt and assembled so i can measure and order my inner shafts.

there has to be at least 10 pbb users i have bought stuff from to build this, this is 100% built from pbb parts.

frizzlefry, ord arms.
oreo, knuckles.
highonda, tierod.
d53, stub shafts, hubs, rotors, gears.
booger weldz, lower bearing plates, hubs.
K5MONSTERCHEV, housing.
moontank, spindle nuts.

spindles, calipers, cal stands, and some other stuff were also bought from here but i can not remember from who, thank you.

thats a killer rear steer 14 bolt what kinda axles are you gonna run on the inside? custom 30 spline?

I'm going back a bit here, but for holding the jerry cans in place, if you put something at the bottom to keep the cans from sliding out from the bottom, then you could have some sort of latch that either goes across or straight down.

I might of over thought that.


I suck at MS Paint, and it fucked my labels up, but oh well. you should be able to get my ideas.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a81/skimmer69er/cans.jpg

i had a similar vertical strap in my old chevy for a large ammo can. the only reason i hadnt yet was i wanted to keep everything as flat and recessed as possible, i wasnt to the point yet where i was ready for it.

thats a killer rear steer 14 bolt what kinda axles are you gonna run on the inside? custom 30 spline?

have too. probably going to get spanky ones too so that if i break its an outer and cheaper to fix. bobby long cant make the 14bff 30 spline so that rules out the cv's for awhile.

got the bumper mounted finaly, looks nice, well i like it :flipoff2:

orderd my doubler today, ord.

sent a check out last week for some used 35spl hubs so i can finaly install the free 35pl shafts cummings gave me.

picked up another 454 flywheel today and started pulling the tranny out again to get that swaped out.

i am supposed to drive it to a buddies wedding/house were all of us hillbillies will have our trucks and i forgot about that before i tore it apart again.

i got my doubler :beer: to ord, that was fast!!!!

the fly wheel i got still shook and now my clutch is funky. so i just orderd a new flywheel from the parts place [the 2 i had were buddy deals] and a new clutch, hopefully that will take care of it because if it gets pulled again it will have the doubler on it too so thats gona suck.

:smokin: Isn't it dead sexy! Did you ask for any clocking?
Guess your bushings are for a custom crossmember, huh? Keep us posted on your design. I am getting ready for a redesign on my crossmembers, so always looking for some good ideas.

yes

yes


and yes


i stopped by ruff stuff today and grabbed some tabs for the frame end.

i spent a couple of hours building the thing only to be reminded of how goddamn heavy 203 setups are. :laughing:

got it all put together but am undecided on how i want to mount and hang the crossmembers, i want use the spanky mounts i bought but i will definately need to cahnge the exhaust to do so. i want to flat belly it but im not sure if i want to cut out the cab or b/l it 1" ish.

meh decisions decisions.

the built setup.

i should probably rip the 205 off again before i go any father and tear it down to mod it up with the split shift, 32 spl out put, and drill and tap a new fill port in the case since they fill and drain are alomst flat to eachother.

i spent a couple of hours building the thing only to be reminded of how goddamn heavy 203 setups are. :laughing:

got it all put together but am undecided on how i want to mount and hang the crossmembers, i want use the spanky mounts i bought but i will definately need to cahnge the exhaust to do so. i want to flat belly it but im not sure if i want to cut out the cab or b/l it 1" ish.

meh decisions decisions.

the built setup.

I had to tear down my T19 to make/swap in a custom mainshaft... had to tear down the 203 to clean it all up and install the doubler adapter.... had to tear down the 205 to do the shift rail mod and front output shaft swap...

So, I just left them all torn down and did all my mock up work for crossmember fabrication with empty cases. They were a hell of a lot easier to put in and take out that way. :flipoff2:

haha that pink house in the pick looks EXACTLY like mine...except mines brown...wierd


cool truck! looking into doin the doubler setup in my blazer

... i want to flat belly it but im not sure if i want to cut out the cab or b/l it 1" ish...

I have a clocked ORD adaptor and raised the entire drivetrain up 2 3/4" to get a flat belly.With a 2" body lift I still had a big hole in the floor and almost had bench seat clearance issues :p

http://www.norcalbigdawgs.net/Gallery/albums/The-Hammers/Img_0115.jpg
http://www.norcalbigdawgs.net/Gallery/albums/The-Hammers/Img_0113.jpg

And my low profile mount ,
http://www.norcalbigdawgs.net/Gallery/albums/The-Hammers/Img_0116.jpg

Flatness :grinpimp:
http://www.norcalbigdawgs.net/Gallery/albums/The-Hammers/Img_0124.jpg

It no longer has that body,but you git the idea :p

Do you have anymore pictures of your transmission mount?:D Sorry,not trying to hijack.

no no, that is a slick deal. i like it .

started on the triple stick tonight.

i cut the inner 203 selector plate off to make room for the linkages. then i cut the s bend off of the outer plate becuase in stock position it was in the way. i tried fliping it over but it was just to close to the case for the linkage nub to clear, so i welded the flat portion i cut off the bottom of the inner to make a straight one that had the goofy slot for the selector.


i painted it gold cause its pimp. :grinpimp:

i have managed to collect 5-6 stock 205 shifter so im puting them to use.

these are 100% stock from varying years and applications. kind of coll that they are going to work this way.

i straightend out one of the 203 stock linkage rods and it will fit the inner most shifter and pusing the entier assembely as close as possible to the adapter housing.

the tranny shifter is in reverse so it is as close to interfering as it can be, lots of room :D

Looking good,hope to see more soon.:D

made the linkage tabs for the shift rails, saw somebody else do this and i thought it would work out.

just a peice of 1/2 or 3/4" pipe. cut a 1" length then a slot down the side 1/4" wide, now looks like a C. slip it over the stock linkage bar that i cut in half and weld.

subscribeded

got the shifter mount plate built.

i couldnt find a bolt or sleeve that i was happy with so i grabbed a 3/4 x 7" bolt thinking it would be easy as pie to drill out the id of the shifters. let me make this simple clear and unireveclebly blunt, no you cant simply drill out the id of a 205 shift. :laughing:

a drill bit didnt even phase it, took it to a shop and it ate there reamer, its at another shop with a mill now so we will see what happens.

i got the shifters back. it wouldnt ever bore out with an end mill :eek:

they had a hone of some sort, i had never seen anything like it before, but it worked.

it took them 3 hours to get it done, i was there watching for the last.

meh either way i am into it for $130 with all the steel, sevices and hard ware which is a far cry from what the production 3 sticks go for. ill post pics up tomorrow.

Looks good!

thats the 203 in gear and the tranny in r so thats as close to intorfering as they will get.

Any updates on the rear steer?

no, i blew my current wad on the doubler so thats still on hold.

i did however send out some money for some 35 hubs and its lost/still in transit, i need them so i can get the stubs in the right place to measure

i posted some semi completed pics in another 14b steer thread but i guess it never made it over here.

What would you run the caster at in a rear steer?

i didnt build the center so??

it was setup for a tall lift front axle. i just reassembled the entire damn thing and am now trying to get the inners orderd.

the G.D.S.O.B.C.S is int there :mad:

i wish i had gotten the standard position instead of the +2^. its fucking me 5 way till friday.

there is now no room for the exhuast over the tcase or between the frame rail.

the drive shaft is higher, but it is also out father from center line putting it right up against my header flange at static height.

for now the cases are on the stock crossmember on the 203 foot mount. i did have to cut the flange that the hump bolts to out for the bolt for my shifters.

pics tomorrow, im tired and pissed off.

the G.D.S.O.B.C.S is int there :mad:

i wish i had gotten the standard position instead of the +2^. its fucking me 5 way till friday.

there is now no room for the exhuast over the tcase or between the frame rail.

the drive shaft is higher, but it is also out father from center line putting it right up against my header flange at static height.

for now the cases are on the stock crossmember on the 203 foot mount. i did have to cut the flange that the hump bolts to out for the bolt for my shifters.

pics tomorrow, im tired and pissed off.

I think you need to give it to me. My exhaust runs down the drivers side.:flipoff2:

I was just wondering what angle the ball joints/king pins look when the pinion is at the correct angle.
Do they look like they are pointing forward, backward or strait up.

i have never even put an angle finder to it to check any of it, i can when i find some free time.

i tried to make the header collector shorter, er alot shorter in a hack atempt to not buy new headers but it fails.

i got the rear drive shaft back on the way home from work.

remounted the crossmember under the ord adapter foot, just doing that raises everything up 1-2".

i just made some b/s turn downs so i can use the truck this weekend to help clear some property.

HOLY SCREAMING MONKEY BALLS OF FIRE!!!!

FUCKING DOUBLERS KICK ASS!!!!!:D

as you can see i got it all back to operating condition and used the ever living piss out of it today. :smokin::eek:

for some reason the first fly wheel i had [which is the same pn## of that i have now] shook like michal j fox on speed, this one works fine. :smokin:

HOLY SCREAMING MONKEY BALLS OF FIRE!!!!
shook like michal j fox on speed:smokin:

sorry, thats all i got out of your post... :laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing: :flipoff2:

FUCKING DOUBLERS KICK ASS!!!!!:D


All that gearing is gonna break stuff, it was a dumb idea, blahblahblahblahblahblah.:flipoff2:

I do agree though.

i had way to much fun this weekend!!!

all in all yanked about 30 trees out, dieing or flat out dead. a couple we just pushed over by hand. everybody out there was so appreciative that my truck was there, we got about 5x as much done than if we didnt have it.

i did mange to kill the big over sized fuel pump from hitting the crossmemeber tourquing on trees and broke a motor mount tab, no biggie. i had a replacment short pump and hard line in in about 20min.

this was one of the easier tugs. i barely got on it but the open pipes sure made it feel bad ass.


http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/trkklr77/th_100_0140.jpg (http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/trkklr77/?action=view&current=100_0140.flv)

I thought only redneck hillbillys, like me used their trucks to remove trees from their yard.:D Glad to see your enjoying your truck.I want to know more about the 14 bolt steering axle.

never denied either:dustin:

i finaly got the pics shrunk down.

i picked up the exhuast skinny jason had left over from when my 454 was his and in his dually. because of the drive shaft and tcase clocking i must run a y pipe over to the d side. 3" into 4" and a flowmaster. its wont have that tinny big cam pop that i like but no body else will care so meh.

What are all the issues you had by getting the adaptor 2"^?
Did you have to have either of your drive shafts lenghtened or shortened?

it fucked my exhaust routing.

my truck being as short as it is the front drive shaft was 1/2" from the collector with full length headers.

it also completely blocked any possibility of routing the pipe around the tcase, ther is only about 1 " to the frame and 1" to the body.


i am almost finished with the new exhaust. i fawked up and didnt hold the pipes at the right angles so when i lined up my y pipe it points down to much, im just going to slap a small bend in it and line it back up.

3" to the y 4" main, all in all is about 6' long.

i had to cut off the ball and cup from the header to get it up tight and angled properly for flow and access. the brown is the original y that i cut up and moded to fit my truck, it was originaly setup to be on the p side.

these are the new headmans shortend about 2".

they DID NOT clear either the a portion of the cab, frame, or the motor mounts.

the cab was just the heat sheild under the passangers feat,

the frame was a sliver of a bulge on the upper flat of the channle on the pside.

the motor mount was the rear corner of the d side mount and i had to grind about a 1/2" off of it.

Are those truck shortys? If they are have you looked into running chevelle shortys? Thats what I run in my 79 blazer framed rig with a 454.
http://pnkages.com/gallery/d/612-2/DSCN1633.jpg
http://pnkages.com/gallery/d/600-2/DSCN1630.jpg

That's all it messed up?
My exhaust is already down the drivers side. Did you have any clearance issues with the cab?
I have the 203 right now and a 205 in the garage. I will be doing a doubler sometime this year. If you leave it at the stock rotation the driveshafts will fit without modifying right?

my front shaft is a super slip that had nearly no spline showing so when it got pushed back i had plenty of spline still left in. the rear did get shortend 7".

the cab clears with the stock crossmember and mounts, flat bottom is a whole nother story.

those look just like mine, i just asked for the 3/4 that they had on hand and thats what i got. the pn is posted below

i got it all finished except i need a band clamp or somthing for the slip connector in the middle, but you get the jist of it.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/trkklr77/100_0152.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/trkklr77/100_0153.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/trkklr77/100_0154.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/trkklr77/100_0157.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/trkklr77/100_0158.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/trkklr77/100_0151.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/trkklr77/100_0164.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/trkklr77/100_0165.jpg
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/trkklr77/100_0159.jpg

Looks like you went from 3"dual into a 4 inch, and out of the muffler into a 4.5 tailpipe.

no loss in power over a dual system with that setup, and it almost acts like a tuned header.

Looks ok, but it might be a tad loud...

edit: jeez. I couldnt get the word DUAL in the right feckin place... its fixed now.

its 3" > 4" all the way out.

it will probably be loader than all hell, but not as bad as turn downs. it has that tinny pop that i didnt think it would so im happy

yep those are the car shortes. I guess the difference is that your junk is tucked up higher then mine.

since i got the axe i am finding the time to get things taken care of now.

i finaly got around to hacking into the front bumper to fit my 8274.

spent a lot of time thinking about the top cut out and if i wanted to bend the flap up to addovid a weld seam, yeah that worked :shaking:. i couldnt get it all hot enough so i sloted and tabed it and it still broke the tabs so i had to fully weld the seam anyhow.

i intentionaly left the upper portion back about 5* only to find out that it hit the control box and the upper housing, so i notched and pulled that back flat.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e53/trkklr77/100_0598.jpg

nice bumper. I can't wait to get out of the sandbox and plumb my winch..... ::sigh:: I miss my truck :(

That turned out nice:smokin: I like the stepin by the drum instead of one straight cut.

I love that body style I got a 75 blazer to pimp out myself. Love the mods looks to be a beast build....diggin it

wheres the thread at for your 14 bolt front?

I really like that body style nice job on the build so far. :grinpimp:

wheres the thread at for your 14 bolt front?

In the for sale section;)

i didnt build it my self so i dont have a thread on it, i have posted it and what ever tech there is from it in some of the other 14b steering threads though.

yes it is the the sale section, though i am contantly thinking i should keep it and use it for the front of my 2ton and that would clean up some issues with that, the problem with that is the d60 spindles are only XXX rated, my motor for the 2ton is 1300lbs alone, not including the tranny!!! i would be worried about shearing a spindle from over loading.

i finaly got around to wheeling it with the doubler, all i can say is wow. it takes so much if the fight out of the truck and makes it a relaxing event instead of a constant attack and battle with momentum and foot work.

i did mange to cook the living shit out of the '79 or '89 8274 [serial ## 139,000] motor trying to drag the heavy truck through mildy hard packed snow but its not the end of te world.

i had a little fender rub from the front tires when it was crossed up but nothing to sweat.

Any videos with the new exhaust?
Looks nice, I'm interested in hearing it.

i will make one.

Nice build, looking pretty good. I like that its streetable.

why did you decide on +suspension height over trimming fenders?

hows that "cheap" cross over steering/hi steer set up holding up?

its plenty short enough its less than 7' tall and i can still park in most public garages.

i didnt want to lose the inner fenders becuase it makes everthing a f ing mess, if you want to trim enough to make a difference you have to lose the inners. i did do a very minor trim by cutting the lower portion of the front of the fender and trimmed the small lip off the underside of the fender.

the steering stuff is doing fine, i could probably stand to put new tre's all the way around but only because i bought them used and who knows how hard and old they are.

I didn't see anywhere what gears you are running in those axles?

whats your tach reading at 60MPH with those 38.5's :smokin:

4.56:1

@60 its around 2800

i like to run 65-70 @3000-3100

here are the vids of my exhaust,

at freeway you can barely talk to another person and forget about a cell phone. i dont care, i built it to wheel and cheap not to sound nice, look good and be comfy :flipoff2:

ignore the visual of the secnod vid, it is hard to hold a camera, steer and shift :flipoff2:

YouTube - big ehxaust on a big block chevy (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FA6eZtpLHZM&feature=channel_page)

YouTube - big exhaust on a big block chevy 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDPVmsBDMRc&feature=channel)

bad fuckin ass

That sounds like shit....








Just kiddin. SWEET:smokin:


.

LOL I can still hear the tires whine after you let off the throttle, sounds badass man.

Sounds good!!!!! :D

what muffler is that ??

its a flowmaster but i would have to pull the ### to see the series. i think it might be one of the quieter ones like 70-80 series.

I ran dual Flowmaster 40's on my 65 C10 (350), but I ended up taking them off & using some cheap no name mufflers. They sounded great but too loud for a daily driver.

pretty much the same thing that i had on this truck.

each pipe and muffler was less than 4' long.

YouTube - my 454 swb 71 burnout (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFP1HWfSgko&feature=channel)

wow nicely done on the burn out bro

i know my bumps and work on lumpy has been speratic at best but i have been working on th e2 ton, going to class and tending up the back yard.

i went snow wheeling about 2 months ago and since then the front axle seal shit out so today i tore it down and while i was at it welded the diff so now im locked at both ends. no pics but its done and no more fucking around.

Great build of a classic square nosed SWB

can you lite up the 38's a little with the BigBlock?:D

im sure it would if the suspension wasnt so soft, it like to wheel hope and axle wrap.

front axle seal shit out so today i tore it down and while i was at it welded the diff so now im locked at both ends. no pics but its done and no more fucking around.

There goes your turning radius and cornering...:laughing:



but at least there is no more fucking around.

its not a slolam runner and i dont need it on the street, besides, if it gets tight, turn and burn, i knew i added the twin stick for a reason.

its not a slolam runner and i dont need it on the street, besides, if it gets tight, turn and burn, i knew i added the twin stick for a reason.

front wheel drive burnouts are always cool.

right on..love the truck and build. gotta love BBC's

i posted some semi completed pics in another 14b steer thread but i guess it never made it over here.


Ah that looks familiar. Good to see you made progress on it. Have you had a chance to install it yet?

its gone. i sold it to a another pbb that only wanted the d60 parts, i cut the tube off for him and pocketd the cash.

i dont wheel at all any more and it wasnt going to get built. i think its done for a long time. i like how it flex's, pulls, drives, yanks, and recovers so i dont see any drastic changes coming.

Nice build!!:grinpimp: Now I know what problems to look for when I do my doubler and what headers I should use.

Bringing this back from the dead...

Any updates? Im wanting to build a truck just like this one, using this one as motivation...

i ditched the boggers finaly, well wore then out and got some h1's

regeared it back to 4.10's, i am still over 100:1 with the doubler.

pulled out the front diff i welded.

replaced all the tre's/dle's and toe'd the tie rod for the first time ever.

i need to swap the 52's front from side to side, its getting a pretty harsh lean from a pretty fat ass in the drivers seat :laughing:

i have some super long shocks i need to install with the ford/fab mounts.

sure looks a lot different with the h1's instead of the boggers.

the fuzz wont even notice you now

looks good:smokin:

pretty clean lookin. finish everything and bring that shit up to bobs

bobs will be slicker than shit for at least another month or two.

bobs will be slicker than shit for at least another month or two.


yep but thattl give you time to do whatever else it is that you wanna do on your truck

got..................................












structual integrity?????



because i dont :eek:


my buddy blazer-justin came over and was eyeballing my truck he noticed that i had a broken h1 stud. mhe, it was bound to happen, so i get under it to look for any other loose things because i have had some wierd wobbles and shakes lately and look what i found!!!:eek:

now it could have been from all the tree pulling, some of the wheeling, the monster tree i yanked out of a creek bed, the heavy trailers or any of the other hundreds of times i have over worked this poor 1/2ton, but it started driving wierd about 2 months ago and i never could find anything specific.

wow not much left to go

Frame swap?
Or plate/repair?

if its that only spot id just weld it up then plate it and mabe keep your eyes open for another frame.whats up with that hole above the shock?

im not sure yet, i have been thinking about tearing the truck apart because i just dont wheel anymore but it is just to strong and well equiped to get rid of. i could use the motor for another project truck.

im going to plate and fix it for now because it is my dd but my 2wd 70 is just a motor and a weekend short of being drivable again.

i may try and find a gutted cucv truck because i sure miss having the longbed and its frame would be better suited to my needs. i would just need to get a longer rear drive shaft and everything else would just swap.

if its that only spot id just weld it up then plate it and mabe keep your eyes open for another frame.whats up with that hole above the shock?

idk, there is one on the other side aswell. they may have been the original shock mounts, they may have been access for the nigger fab hack job they did putting the efi square tank between the rails.

just fix it i dont wana see it go.i miss mine

idk, there is one on the other side aswell. they may have been the original shock mounts, they may have been access for the nigger fab hack job they did putting the efi square tank between the rails.

Originals. At least my one truck has them there.

Lucky you found it when you did at least. One more pull and it'd be toast:laughing:

i was reall busy tuesday and today/tonight so i dropped it off at my buddy skinny's and he welded it up and plated the outside for me :beer::beer:.

im gona start looking for a gutted cucv/1ton diesel or 73-80[vin swap] and go back to a long bed. not in a emergency rush but just keeping my eye out for now.

Good Looking Truck!

How are those H1 rims doing for clearance on your steering and etc?

Do you have any pictures of the front end with them on?

just bumping to add pics,

a customer brought his jeep in and wanted to stretch it out to measure for shocks. i said fuck it and did mine too because i hadnt maxed it out since i built it.

i have a frame and srw long bed coming to me soon. the question now is just how long do i want to go....


its a crewcab 4x4 with no drivetrain or axles, was a running driving truck with tbi 454 [im getting the efi stuff also]

the 2 options are

1 put my single cab and clip on it and shorten the frame to 135 lwb

2 use the crew cab and vin swap it and make the thing the trailtanic 150+ wheel base


if i use the crew cab i MIGHT put my sb back on it but i doubt it. i need to get back to a long bed.

idk, there is one on the other side aswell. they may have been the original shock mounts.

They are the original shock mount holes. I blew mine out on my 79. I guess it was a real common thing with the 80's low cost lift kits sending shocks way to short and having them rip out of the frame. That was what happened to mine.

Build the crew cab.........

build the crew cab.........

x2!

Build the crew cab.........

x3

x4 on the crew cab
just bumping to add pics,

a customer brought his jeep in and wanted to stretch it out to measure for shocks. i said fuck it and did mine too because i hadnt maxed it out since i built it.

is your frame boxed im shocked to see so little frame flex

add..
quote: if i use the crew cab i MIGHT put my sb back on it.
do this.
i need to get back to a long bed.
stretch lumpy
__________________

no its not boxed. its the soft springs, they give so much and the short frame is not leveraged the same making it mildly stiffer than a 1/2-3/4t long bed.

my long bed with 4" ranchos and the same rear springs as lumpy.

Good build up man!

fwiw, there is almost exactly the same distance under the tires in these to pics, the long bed was 42" and lumpy was 44"

"rusty" was
4" ranchos
double shackle 56"
350
465/205
4.56 60/14
37"boggers

"lumpy" is
52" fronts
same rears
454
465/203/205
37" mills

the biggest difference being length v suspension.

Holy bed flex batman!

I love bed flex

A crew cab short bed it a really cool idea.........

a local fella up here built a quad cab short box, turned out to be a super sweet truck.

burbanfreek is that a work truck or is it one of the military trucks with the 6.2 diesel in it? Only asking because of the numbers on it and I thought about getting one of the military trucks with the diesel before i stumbled across a different k20 for a good price.

thats a cucv truck, he has a build up on here with it.

Awesome build trkklr. It's good to see build threads that don't go all out on the highest end parts and wild suspension setups. I hope to have my stepside setup similarly in the next year or so.

Keep up the good work, man. :smokin:

Id say do the crew cab and put a short bed on it.

Here's a buddy that put a crew cab on his 82 single cab longbed frame. Much nicer having the extra room in the cab for the ice chest and more people. Basically same susp. setup as yours and running 42's. With the doubler and cutting brakes it turns pretty well on the trail too.

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/qq86/willturner_01/Hidden%20Falls%20Labor%20Day%202010/DSC01196.jpg

the thing is that i need to get a long bed again the short bed is killing me with moving shit around, i knew it would.

the new frame is a cc long bed and i would LIKE to have the crew cab but i NEED the long bed. if i keep it as is i dont have to cut it up

Needs are important. I like crewcabs since I need the leg room that a single cab chevy doesn't have. (I'm 6'5")

I have a trailer for those times when I would need a longbed on my dd. Its easier to load and unload stuff on a trailer too. Just my opinion though.

yes but i dont always want to tote a trailer.

i work 30miles from home and often pick stuff up or have to go 30 miles the other way to get stuff. i dont want to have to go home to get a trailer first.

Build the crew cab....... Thats what I am doing. Ill have a crew cab long bed chevy with a common rail 6bt and a 1st gen extra cab long bed. I just need to find a 1 ton frame for my crew cab.

Build the crewcab... I dig you single cab and would be stoked to see you build a crew.

i'm liking this build. what about getting a cucv and building it? the frames seem even stronger than the other 3/4 ton work truck chevy i have and my neighbors camper special 3/4 ton. maybe you would know the answer to this. i have just bought a cucv pickup and stripped it down to the frame (bought it strictly for the axles, its a 1028). i noticed that the c-section of the frame in the area around where the cab and bed meet was really wide/taller, its a full 8" wide/tall in this section compared to both other 3/4 tons that measure 6" in the same area.. the frame guage was a skosh under 1/4" thick which is the same as two other 3/4 ton frames i compared it to, (compared to my 1/2 ton truck, its frame which is super thin in comparison maybe 3/16" if that).

they are bigger, all 1t frames are built that way.

when my frame broke a few week ago and i decided to rebuild and go bigger the cucv was one of the options, this just came up first.

didn't know it was considered a 1 ton. thanks for the info. good luck on your build

im only saying that because of the spring pack they come with not the frame :homer:

This is a losing battle.



OP- I vote crew cab just for the hell of it. :D

I vote long bed.. crew cabs are cool and all but you still want to wheel this thing right..? :confused:

meh, i haven wheeled much in the last years and most of what i have done in my life a long bed fit with out to much issue.

Crew Long bed........

well my frame around the steering box is broken, again.



i got the dually here and the more i think about what i need and where to go next i think im just gona go stock and and part out the good stuff off lumpy.

oh, well. :(

awww that truck is bad arse!!! dont part her out she looks like a fun rig!

if you part her out how much you want for those axles and wheels :)

hell how much you want for the truck? I love your doubler setup that is truely a work of art

idk what im gona do with it exactly yet.

i need the axle for the dually, i need the or a motor and trans tcase too.

i dont want to chop it up because it is a well balanced very handy truck

but i need the bed space, i need the cab space now for sure[found out on friday i got a baby comin:bounce:], i just dont wheel enough to need a flexy truck.

if i do kill it 1 of 2 things are gona happen.

A ill strip the tranny/tcases, rear axle, high steer, and suspension off and sell it all, put the bumpers, d60 and bbc in the dually, park the cab and bed out back as a future drag truck.

B yank my bbc, d60, vin, and bumpers, slip a 8lug font in and sell it as a builder whole.


id like to think that i could get about 3k out of it as parts and keep the bbc, d60, bumpers and body, but we will have to see.

if you part her out how much you want for those axles and wheels :)

hell how much you want for the truck? I love your doubler setup that is truely a work of art

without a doubt i am keeping the front d60 reguardless. :evil: unless you got serious cash money ready to buy it for reals.

"IF" and i mean IF i were to sell it as is, with all of the stuff that i want to keep off of it i would want $8k. and i want the parts more than i want the money.

it would also come with some 35spl shafts for the front.

idk what im gona do with it exactly yet.

i need the axle for the dually, i need the or a motor and trans tcase too.

i dont want to chop it up because it is a well balanced very handy truck

but i need the bed space, i need the cab space now for sure[found out on friday i got a baby comin:bounce:], i just dont wheel enough to need a flexy truck.

if i do kill it 1 of 2 things are gona happen.

A ill strip the tranny/tcases, rear axle, high steer, and suspension off and sell it all, put the bumpers, d60 and bbc in the dually, park the cab and bed out back as a future drag truck.

B yank my bbc, d60, vin, and bumpers, slip a 8lug font in and sell it as a builder whole.


id like to think that i could get about 3k out of it as parts and keep the bbc, d60, bumpers and body, but we will have to see.

CONGRAT's on the baby!!

If you are willing I would be really interested in that rear axle with the rear stear. I would also like to get my hands on your trans setup with doubler both of those would be awesome but I would settle for one or the other :)

With the setup you have you wouldnt have a problem building the dually up. Ever consider takin the dually axle out and just running your entire setup underneath that truck? Just a couple feet longer and you have the Cab that you need and the long bed you want. To be honest that would just be a wicked all around multi purpose truck

i want to keep the dually dually and the 14bff wont work for that. if i were to find a complete drw 72" 14bff i will definately be keeping my detroit but for now the plan is to make a quick stock swap with as little down time as possible.

the steering 14b is lnog gone.

its still a ways out as i need to get my 70 truck running before i can kill this one.

CONGRAT's on the baby!!


x2 congrat's.ill miss lumpy

thanks guys. :)

Congrats on the upcoming addition! :beer::beer::beer: My next one is due in less than 3 weeks!


I would consider transplant the complete drivetrain, 454, 203/205, D60, high steer, Bumpers etc into the crew cab. You already got everything and it would make a sweet DD/weekend crawler for camping trips with the kiddo.

congrats on the new addition...

bump for the newby looking for info on how to build his truck.

additionS

it are twins :eek:

i guess since every truck i own [except this one for the time being] is a dually its kind of fitting :laughing:

additionS

it are twins :eek:

i guess since every truck i own [except this one for the time being] is a dually its kind of fitting :laughing:

Congrats dude! :beer:

Love the build and will be sad to see lumpy go.

additionS

it are twins :eek:

i guess since every truck i own [except this one for the time being] is a dually its kind of fitting :laughing:

I feel your pain!! we're due for our twins to be here any day now! I loved watching this build, and I'm looking forward to watching the next one.