Hi All, Started this build description once before but got very busy with building and did not finish posting. Well , I'll try again. 88 Sami with 1.6 Turbo Diesel VW egine, Land Cruiser axles with Lock Rights frt/rear, disc brakes frt/rear, Exo cage, 456 Yukon gears in axles and 514 in transfer case. I have done the governor mod, internal timing advance mod, pump timing advance, turned up fuel ,added manual boost control valve for turbo. Had yj leaf springs before this build, now 4 linked front and rear with cherokee front coils and late model jeep rear coils ( can't remember their letter designation). Has 16" travel Pro Comp shocks, Trail Gear Hydro assist steering, added intercooler,has 8000 lb Ramsey winch. Gonna start with early photos and proceed.Can see in these pictures, started out with straight 2x4 tubing to lenghten frame but found had to put a kick up in it to keep from getting too high.

here I am getting intercooler ,radiator, fan etc installed

here can see Toyota pick up power steering pump after much fabrication mounted to VW engine, used Volvo radiator and Honda fan assembly. See alos start of rear 4 link.

here is rear upper shock mount , more rear shots, next series is in action

only a few problems, 2 of my lowere Johnny joints popped clips and pitman arm was too close to drag link and they touched.

in action pictures don't seem to wanna upload, have to try another time.

rear shock mounts , rear link

Just wondering why you didnt use the VW P/S pump? Its the same GM style pump that PSC uses in their kits

didn't use the VW because mounts low and was going to interfere with upper link travel.

How do you like the cut boggers??

your intercooler setup is the sex.

I ran the Boggers a couple times before I cut them, difference is night and day when extreme traction is needed

Thanks on the intercooler comment. Bought it on ebay for $86 , tubing is 2.5" exhaust tubing I had bent. Took coat hangers and bent up a pattern then to exhaust shop and had them bent.

How do you like your 6.5 gears? just ordered a set today. Currently running 5.14's and on steep hills 2nd gear runs out of power. Replying to Valley Auto post

How do you like your 6.5 gears? just ordered a set today. Currently running 5.14's and on steep hills 2nd gear runs out of power. Replying to Valley Auto post

The 6.5s are great I wish I had 8.1's but ow well I can easily crawl most things in second and third gear

:smokin:

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x242/pook317/Sami_link_2_054.jpg
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http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x242/pook317/Sami_link_2_047.jpg
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http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x242/pook317/Sami_link_2_041.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x242/pook317/Sami_link_2_040.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x242/pook317/Sami_link_2_039.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x242/pook317/Sami_link_2_038.jpg

Cool build up! Do you have any other shots of your PS pump bracket? Possibly something from build up, or without the pump mounted? Is is stacked on the studs of the VW water pump?
Do you happen to know the dimensions of that volvo rad?

Feel free to post more pictures, if you have them handy ;)

:thumbsup:

actually, it pivots in the original VW position off the mount, which does bolt to the water pump housing bolts. Basically what I did was start with some heavy strap, cut a notch out for mount clearance, drill lower mounting hole,then upper mounting hole,which was determined by the height I wanted the pump, then made the front part of the mount from strap that I bent to line up with the pivot point of the original mount, then made appropriate braces for the mount. Biggest problem was where to mount the upper brace/pivot point to get rid of flex--ended up building a rod coming all way across in front of timing cover and attaching to upper alternator mount bolt. If you need me to do so will try to get some pictures of the mount and post them. Volvo radiator measures 24" tall,22" wide,is 3 pass radiator and cools well.

If getting a couple more pictures of the bracket is not a huge inconvenience, I'd appreciate it. Thanks for the fast reply, and rad specs. The vw rad is 31" wide, and fitting it in is proving to be a bit of a problem.

Nice build!

Did you fish plate that frame extension?

yes, fish plated inside and , just to be sure, outside as well

I had a radiator from a Quantum in mine before that was 27" wide ,I believe, I have that one if it will help you--long as you still have inner fenders you can use it.

ordered twin stick set up from Rockrat yesterday, figured since I am building another transfer case with the 6.5 gears, might as well go all the way and twin stick it too.

area is a little confined, did best I could to get you pictures

2 more p/steer pics

You have a nice build going there. Only thing is you alt setup is going to suck rocks. BTDT, not enough belt contact with the crank pulley. I had to add an idler pulley for my WP and run a short serp belt for the alt. Otherwise it would slip a bit when dry and always slip when wet.

I thought , as you, that I would have belt slippage due to small amount of belt contact on crank pulley, been that way since Jan. and doin' fine-did use 12.5 wide belt though.

Cool, thanks for the PS bracket pictures.
The toy pump isn't the most straight forward to mount on these engines. That looks similar to what I was considering, since I already have that pump, but I think some other styles might be better suited, as far as mounting config goes.

Thanks again.

Nice little build, gotta love a turbo diesel. Now loose the Lockrites (go ARB's) and the Ronald McDonald colors and It'll be even more bitchin.

:smokin: cool zook! Got any pics from the side showing the whole rig ? What did the wheel base end up at?

wheel base ended up @ 104" .
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc256/pfai/beaverbutchme004.jpg

just changed the gears in my transfer case from 5.14's to 6.5's and man, what a difference. Can now climb hills with some tire speed in 2nd and sometimes 3rd gears. Also added Rockrats twin stick set up, works great, gettin' used to using 2 sticks now.

Interesting - you aren't the first diesel guy who I've heard loves the really low gears - I've not tried them yet - I had stock gears and 35's and had plenty of power and wheelspeed, just wished for slow crawl once in awhile.

Currently I have stock Toy gearing and 4.88's, and again, I could use crawl, but with the TDI-M mildly tuned I have plenty of torque and wheelspeed.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/540728/fullsize/07-10-07_2238.jpg

I stretched the tail a long - wheelbase is 108" and that soft top I have on is stock length :D

mxr148 must be a prophet- ripped out my rear locker this weekend, welded left side together so could ride rest of weekend and did not notice much difference being welded, what are peoples thoughts on welding the rear, very little street use, nearly none. Using Toyota Land Cruiser diffs so evewrything for them is more expensive.

I liked it well enough - with stock Zuk axles, it was rough on the teeny splines with 35" tires but behaved itself, I managed not to break any axles in the year of daily driving that way. I wouldn't hesitate with Cruiser axles, in the rear at least. I've got a locker in the back of the new Toys but if it breaks I will weld 'er up. Saves money for an ARB or E-locker up front :D

I ran a welded cruiser front in my sami for awhile, it wasnt that bad

I liked it well enough ... I wouldn't hesitate with Cruiser axles, in the rear at least. I've got a locker in the back of the new Toys but if it breaks I will weld 'er up. Saves money for an ARB or E-locker up front :D

If you don't mind the welded rear, why not swap thirds front to back? weld the rear, and throw your locker up front?

it is the rear that let go, gonna pull it out ,weld up original spiders and side gears- friend gonna do it-has oven to heat the assembly to 400 degrees,weld ,then gradually cool off in the oven.

If you don't mind the welded rear, why not swap thirds front to back? weld the rear, and throw your locker up front?

Even with Longs, the 39.5's make me think it might be better to run open most of the time. Plus I might borrow Logjam's 45" Tractor tires - and they scare Bobby :grinpimp:

wheel base ended up @ 104" .
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc256/pfai/beaverbutchme004.jpg

So I went for it and cut my boggers to what a difference, thanks for the advice

Hey Deepmud, you anywhere near Soldotna ? I did a mission trip there 2 years ago to work on a Christian Vocational school--beautiful place.

I'm Wasilla - 1 hour north of Anchorage, which is about 3 hours or so from Soldotna (since this is your thread I won't minding muddying it up even more :p sorry about that ). I was down there about a week ago on a working trip. The Kenai river sure is pretty, isn't it?:grinpimp:

nice ride, i had the 6.5:1 case but as my DD it was far too low to run at speed with 31s. did you make the boost controller? and whats the rad out of? i have the wide VW rad 27"? and it cools ok cept on bigger hills