I figured I would post this thread here. This will bring us up to date.
I thought I would post some info and pics of my new engine build. Trying to find estimated power levels. This is for my 81 F150 with 6 inches of lift, solid front axle, 35" AT tires and a 4 speed.

Specs are as follows.

Rotating Assembly.
DIVE Block. Oil passages have been ported to 9-1/6 size hole to match ported oil pump. Block has been bored .60 over. "O" decked and line bored.
3Y 460 crank, ground and polished. Internally balanced.
Pistons are a super light weight custom flat top forging from Diamond Racing, with floating pins yielding 12-1 CR.
Rods are a 4340 Chromolly "H" Beam rod with brass bushed floating pin land and ARP bolts at the bottom. Ported and blue printed oil pump with shim kit.

Valvetrain.
Cam is a Lunati custom grind solid flat tappet cam. 641 lift in/ex with 271in/279ex duration @50. 108 LSA. Scorpion 1/73-1 ratio roller rockers. Hardened steel 3/8s push rods, guide plates and Lunati dual valve springs with 340 #s of open seat pressure. 640 max spring lift at cam lobe.

Induction.
Dual 4V weiand tunnel ram intake with dual eddelbrock 650 Thunder series AVS carbs with adjustable vaccume seccondaries. Fully ported procomp aluminum heads with 74cc combustion chambers. machined rocker pedistals that have been drilled and tapped for 7/16th studs. 4 angle valve job with stainless over sized valves (2.24in/1.76ex) with 30 degree head cut for improved flow. Eddelbrock umbrella seals and hardened seats for dual spring configurations.

NHRA approved fueling system with AN fittings and stainless steel lines. Holley electric blue pump pushing 14 PSI @ 110 GPH. Regulated into both carbs. Eddlebrock dual quad throttle linkage. (modified to fit Big Block). Dual holley quad carb air cleaners. CSR red anodized billet electric water pump. Pollished tall aluminum rocker covers, Ford racing wires, Ford racing SFI approved harmonic damper rated for 9000rpm and a few little tricks. Computer dyno sim estimates 650-700 HP at the flywheel at 7400 RPM.

I put together my Induction system for my 472. We have a weiand tunnel ram with 2 edelbrock 650 thunder series AVS carbs. 2 Holley sure flo 2 air filtration devices, edelbrocks dual quad throttle linkage modified by myself so it would be long enough for my carb spacing. A holley fuel regulator with stainless braided gas lines and AN fittings feeding the carbs. What do yall think?

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/pic102407_4-2.jpg
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/pic102407_5-1.jpg
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/pic102407_6-1.jpg
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/pic102407_7-1.jpg
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/pic102407_8-1.jpg

I have the exhaust figured out and have all the parts except the headders.They will be here next week.

Fender exit headders with 2 1/4 inch primaries and a 4" collector, with flowtech race redie cutouts and 3" flowtech terminater mufflers with 4" tail pipes exiting in front of the rear tires. Tottal exhaust length will be APX 4' from collector to tail pipe exit. Will get pics when all is here. I want to powder coat the pipe and mufflers all balck. The pipe is gray like normal exhaust pipe, the mufflers are allredy painted black and it wont all match. I have the guy to do the powder coating.

I got my cam, lifters, springs and oil pump kit today.
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/000_1112.jpg
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/000_1118.jpg

Melling high volume oil pump. The 1/2" oil passages have been ported to 9/16 and
fully blue printed by High Flow Dynamics from CA.http://www.highflowdynamics.com/
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/000_1114.jpg

Comes with a hardened steel oil pump drive shaft and shim kit to adjust oil pressure
to my likeing.
(shim kit)
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/000_1115.jpg

Lunati custom ground SOLID flat tappet cam shaft. Lift is 641 IN/EX
Duration @ 50" tappet lift is 271IN/279EX on a 108 degree lobe seperation.
Look at these lobes!!
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/000_1113.jpg

Lunati solid flat tappet lifters.
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/000_1117.jpg

Lunati Intro series dual with dampener springs, 142lbs of pressure seated, 402 lbs
open pressure rated @ 377 lbs per inch.
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/000_1116.jpg

These parts were provided by Cars by Carl from Colorado Springs Co,
A BBF engine builder by trade. He is very good at what he does.
http://www.carsbycarl.com/

Will post more when I have it.

I recieved my custom headers today. They are fender exit's and have 2 1/4" primaries and a 4" collector.
Once I know they will fit withought modifyieng I will have them ceramic coated in the bright silver color. The rest of the exhaust will be ceramic coated black.

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/pic110607_2.jpg
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/pic110607_6.jpg
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa105/blackhillsboggers/pic110607_7-1.jpg

What are you going to be doing w/ the truck? My first thought would be mud... but you said you are running 35" A/T's...

Just a couple questions for you. That much cam, why not a roller? The newer oil sucks and is hard on flat cams with that much spring pressure. Are you going to run a stud girdle? Is the block splayed or?? What heads??

I run on the street, and some 1/8th mile strip with it. Kind of a street rod, but lifted. I have a set of 36" mud tires and do run the comp mud boggs with it as well. I kept with a flat tappet cam over a roller for cost wise. I kept the lower lift to make it easier on the valvetrain and went with the higher duration to get the power band higher in the rpm range. No splayed main caps. Not needed below 700 HP as I have been told. I posted specs on the heads above..

Ported procomp aluminum heads with Stainless 224IN/176EX valves and scorpion rollers.

I like the specs of the engine somewhat, but sure hate tunnel rams. Had one on my street car and never again will I go that route.

Why dont you like tunnel rams? This is my first one.

get ready to knock!

it ought to idle nice. i seen a truck that body style at the drag strip that was a bogger too. it had a built windsor in it on nos and super charged. that big block outta sound real nice!

get ready to knock!


Ya I hear that forged pistons do that a little bit when cold. Not all are bad enough to hear though. I also know the solid cams tick a bit as well. Thats ok though, see I can sit there at the stop light and the guy next to me will hear an engine that he thinks is an over cammed SB that knocks and ticks and he will wnt to race. As soon as he agrees to run I will flip the switch to un cap the headders and hit it. ....

I am still curious why one would say he dislikes tunnel rams.

I really know nothing about building motors, but I gotta say that looks like a lot of coin to have laying in the dirt:laughing:

I'll keep an eye on this and hopefully I'll learn something.

Thats a lot of spring pressure for a non roller cam, you *might* have issues with that, cause if i remember right those springs would be good for a roller cam, but then again it's been about a year since i last dove into cam/spring specs.

throw away that induction, and I bet you gain 50hp or more..

Why is that? All the ppl that I have talked to say that for the high RPM at wich this engive will build its most power, A tunnel ram will work best.... Why do you not like them? I am asking as I have never used one before.

Since you've asked about tunnel rams a couple times now, I'll only mention that those of us who have used them have all experienced how they kill your low end and even hurt mid range, as well as killing any carb signal you might have. Throw in a big cam and you've pretty much got shit for a carb signal.

Tunnel rams are great for a motor that uses fuel injection, or a hairy ass motor thats all top end, but thats about it.

In my experience about 90% of guys who used tunnel rams would have been better of with something else, like a Victor to use just one example.

That might help explain some of the responses you've received.

I agree ,dump the t-ram,go single easier to tune,better response, better horsepower .I tried double carbs twice once on a 79 f-150 with a 400, street hot rod 4x4 ,36`s, auto, NOS , stall converter,gears ,transbrake,etc.Ran 12.91 in 1/4 mile,went to single 850 double pumper,dropped to 12.84 with alot better response on the street,could actually drive it !
2nd attempt 73 swb ford 4x4 pro pull truck 5400lbs & 6200lbs class 390 FE based motor lots of custom mods. lightened crank ,one off crower cam ,big valve cast heads,(plus 6 engines blown up until I got it right)( early 80`s not much available for hot FE engines)Final combo ,ported 850 holley on ported street master manifold= 10,000+ RPM under load .Ran cali & oregon pull shows early 80`s (expensive but possible) broke major amounts of parts.
Hope this helps been there done that? maybe once or twice.

Allright, before you have any issues make sure that those are solid lifters.

They have snap ring holding the pushrod seat in, which says to me that it's a hydraulic lifter.

Now i've never used Lunati solid lifters, so they may have some solid design with a replaceable cup or something; but my first inclination is that those are hydraulic lifters.

Justin

Allright, before you have any issues make sure that those are solid lifters.

They have snap ring holding the pushrod seat in, which says to me that it's a hydraulic lifter.

Now i've never used Lunati solid lifters, so they may have some solid design with a replaceable cup or something; but my first inclination is that those are hydraulic lifters.

Justin

My thoughts exactly, They look like hydraulic lifters

Please sell the tunnel ram to some street idiot. I know a guy who runs one on his over built small block and it runs like ass for a motor that should make 700 hp. But what do i know. My motor only makes 500hp on 87. I guess i dont know.

When I looked at my lifters they looked like hydros to me as well. I pushed on them with my finger and they did not colapse. Shouldnt I be able to push it down with my finger?

if they are hydro you should be able to push them down. They may take a bit more pressure than your finger can supply, but they will go down if you try.

Try putting a pushrod into the pushrod seat and lean your body weight into it straight down.

Justin

Well since you had me seccond guessing I checked them out and they ARE a solid lifter. There just re buildable. I can remove the C clip and replace the push rod cup. There a really nice piece. I am very impressed with the cam as well. The Diamond custom forged pistons were also very light and very clean cut. Very impressive and expensive..lol.

Awesome man :smokin:

Like i said, didn't know if anythign was wrong or not but figured I'd say something now just in case.

Justin

Well since you had me seccond guessing I checked them out and they ARE a solid lifter. There just re buildable. I can remove the C clip and replace the push rod cup. There a really nice piece. I am very impressed with the cam as well. The Diamond custom forged pistons were also very light and very clean cut. Very impressive and expensive..lol.

Did you try using a pushrod and leaning on it with your weigh to see if it would push down? Or did you just take it apart?

I think your build sounds pretty good just think that cam is a bit small for a tunnel ram like everyone else has said. Tunnel rams are made for high rpm runs on the drag strip or mud bogs not driving on the street.

What is the max rpm you plan on running? Going to use NOS?

I pushed on the lifter pretty hard with a pen, til it broke then I took it apart. The engine will run to a shift point of about 7200 or so, depending on how it runs out. Will have to see when I run it up there. Will spin as fast as it can possibly spin when in the mud. This is a toy and I will not drive it when cold and prolly only on a warm weekend. I dont expect a whole lot out of it on the low end, but expect quite a bit on the higher end. If it runs like a stock 460 til 4k then Ill be ok cause after that is when I will be able to hook it up and run. The stock crank will be fine to 750 horse before I have to worry about it comming apart. I should be over 600 the way it is so I wont have much room for NOS. I do want to run it though. Maybe a 100 or 150 shot just to say I have it...