So I've gotten my girly little hands in the vents and gotten those pesky screws that hold the resistor in place out.

I pull and pull and pull on the wires thinking that the pig-tail plug will come out of the hole that the grommet fills...but it doesn't.

I take the wood panel trim piece off of the inner dash to see if there's anything in there to work with, and the condenser is in the spot where I think I ought to be able to see the pigtail wires.

Is there something I'm missing here? Do I need to remove the black steel panel that the grommet goes into from the vent side? What's behind that thing? The hood springs are *kind of* in the way, and I thought coming at it from the inside would be easier? I don't want to remove the valence shroud thingie, because I don't see that it would help me much other than making it easier to work inside of that small space.

Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi...you're my only hope!

EDIT: Here's the new part...

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/heaterfanresistor.jpg

Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi...you're my only hope!



Sorry, Im headed to Tashi station for some power converters.
Star Wars geek!
:flipoff2:


Regardless of the color of the wire, as long as the position is the same you should be good to splice them. Assuming that you cant get the plug through the hole.
-Jeff

Sorry, Im headed to Tashi station for some power converters.
Star Wars geek!
:flipoff2:


Regardless of the color of the wire, as long as the RELATIVEposition is the same you should be good to splice them. Assuming that you cant get the plug through the hole.
-Jeff

Fixed it for you.

I figured that splicing 5 wires is a hell of a lot easier than ripping apart my dash or taking off the hood.

I've got a bad feeling about this. :vader:

I got the resistor in, all fan speeds work as normal. Splicing = uneventful.

Now I've got to button up the rest of the truck. GRRRRR.

Some pics to raise the tech factor.

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/_SLD2137.jpg

Fried resistor

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/_SLD2143.jpg

Splices in place with new resistor.

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/_SLD2147.jpg

Flat tire to aid in bodily contortions.

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/_SLD2149.jpg

CrewCab on 35's.

Mike:
The wiring harness for the blower resistor is often cable-tied to the rest of the harness behind the heater box. As a result it is rarely possible to extract the harness.

Your solution was pretty elegant!

PT

Some pics to raise the tech factor.

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/_SLD2137.jpg

Fried resistor

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/_SLD2143.jpg

Splices in place with new resistor.

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/_SLD2147.jpg

Flat tire to aid in bodily contortions.

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/_SLD2149.jpg

CrewCab on 35's.

Good Job!

Good parts...the foam pieces are slightly oversized...but they worked.

I feel your pain -- I just pulled the heater box to replace the fan and core. Now I'm fixing all the little niggling shit that's been bugging me like burned out bulbs and loose trim.