This is how I spent my weekend. This set up came from the PR board awhile ago when I was trying a few shock set ups for long travel. What this set up gives me is 5 1/4" of up and 12" of down for a total 17 1/4" at the shock location. The short shocks will give most of the up travel as the long shocks bottom out and vise versa. Also the radius arms are custom built as well and have a 27* bend at the full turn location and johnny joints at the rear. I can fit 38" tires and get full turn with out hitting the arms. I will have some flex shots next weekend after the tranny goes back in.

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this is the lower mounts they pivot bothe directions.

And a close up of the upper. The short shock bodys are fixed to the frame.

cool :smokin:

Explain the point of this. No disrespect intended, but I don't see the usefulness. Thanks.

Originally posted by ARokCrwlr
Explain the point of this. No disrespect intended, but I don't see the usefulness. Thanks.

Ok, after looking at the pics more I see how it works. It is pretty cool. I'd be interested in how it rides/handles with this setup.

Well with stock arms I was able to use 13 1/4" travel shocks to their limit so I knew I needed more travel once I put in my long arms. As far as how it will handle on the road, Before I had the 5 1/2 rock crawler coils and dual shocks and I set them on 3 and that will not change with the new set up eccept now I am using two small shocks for compression but infact the shocks are working on extention as the shock sits. I have been told the valving is not the same for each movment so I will need to run the small ones on 4 or 5. I will let you know next weekend.

Lets see some more pics of the arms! I have been thinking about doing this myself. What material did you use?

I was thinking about making some up myself (wristed rather than extended). I was planning on using sched 80 tube on the bottom and 40 on the top. I am worried about strength when you bend the arms like that though.

Good job! Way to show you have a pair and go with a different shock idea!

-Jack

I used the stock axel ends and built off of them. I used .180 wall DOM and built them 48" over all and added johney joints at the ends. I can get some more pics for you when I get home. I built the arms amout two years ago and am just now getting around to installing them. I will post the results after testing!

:) Looks very nice. hope to see those in person.


Eric

This is a shot of the unfinished arm for the drivers side I just need to paint it and finish cleaning the frame from all the old brackets and crap. Give your input!!

Yes I built the arms myself and I will respond to how they work once I get a chance to try then out. I just had new synkros ( yeh I can't spell) in the NV4500 and still have all the stock brackets to grind off the frame before I put the tranny back in (much easer to get to everything with the tranny out). I should have some poiser pic's this weekend (ramp) and I will post some pic's.

What rod end is that on the raduis arm? it looks different than others I've seen.


Eric

Eric it is a johney joint from rubicon express. They are adjustable and fully rebuildable. The pic is the set up you get (with out the bolt welded on) and the price was some were around 40-70 it has been along time since I bought them.

I forgot they take a 9/16 bolt!

So you have to weld on the bolt?


Eric

Yes but if you are concerned with welding on a bolt, Ask you r self if you should be building arms! Hey if you want help let me know.

Kevin

I ask myself things all the time:eek: :eek: (don't go there...;) )

I just don't trust my own welding skills, The bumber for my girlfriends comanche is one thing, suspension components is an entirely different thing.

The arms look good though. It seems most people forget about putiing a bend in the arm to help clear the tires.
Are you still running the stock front axle width?


Eric

Yes, The front axel is stock with and I still have room for 38" and full turn:) Yes, bumpers and suspention are two very differnt things and I feel better driving on the road knowing that you know that. But if you need any help let me know I drive past you every day (work out of San Leandro and live in dixon). I have been welding since I was about 14 and I have been a union welder for about 10yrs. But no I am not God, Sh*t I can't even remember what the 7018 -6013 crap means, But give me the right rod and my bender and watch out:D

Here is a full side shot. Should look good once all is complete!

Dixon to San Leandro:eek: Shit, now that is a comute!. I'll keep the offer in mind when it comes time to do some work on the Bronco.


Thanks.

Eric

Sh#t, 200 to 350mil's per day, were do you think I come up with all this crap!! Need to stay awake some how!

I was studying the pictures and it looks as if you only had to remove the rear panel of the inner fenders, am I right?

When you do the write up I hope you'll include the part numbers for the shocks.

Eric

If they work like I hope then I will include the #'s. You are right it was just the inner panel that had to be removed. I also trimed the front extra mtl as well a bit out of the rear wheel wells due to alot of rear travel that was chewing up my rear tires as they hit the front of the rear onening.

Well it is getting close to testing. Tranny is back and the radius arm mounts are complete just have the stock mounts on the drivers side to grind off and paint then tranny time. It is getting a full tube tranny mount and skid plate ( 1" .120 wall) this should give me about 2" better clearance then befor and lots more protection.

Well all seams to work great. I flexed up on a local dock to check and see how every thing clears and works. Then headed for the freway and it seams to ride and drive just like before which is very well. Got off the freway and did some fast turns and hard stops and no probs.

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At first, I couldn't understand what you were talking about when you were describing what you had done. But after seeing your test shots, it's clear to me now. That's quite impressive.

Yeh so far it seems to work real well on the street and on ramp testing. I am headed up to the Con on friday morning so we will see what happens!

How did the arms work on the trail?, i love the design, real impressive got any other ideas for radius arm suspentions?

Yeah i know, extremly old thread, but i was curious how your radius arms are working out.

:confused: maybe the short shocks are crackpipe holders

but the swiviling lower mount is kickass

That Bronco was cut in half and a buggie built.

The quad shock setup gives a ton of travel for sure. With the short shocks at the half way point in their travel at ride height, you get twice teh stuff as once the long shocks have bottomed out, the short shocks extend giving you more up travel. For droop, once the long shocks are extended all the way, the short shocks stuff giving you more down travel. Get it?

Jack

Not to be a shit head but Rubicon Express manufactures and sells Super-Flex joints, Currie Ent. sells Johnny Joints. Practically the same damn thing but I thought Id let you know.:)

Not to be a shit head but Rubicon Express manufactures and sells Super-Flex joints, Currie Ent. sells Johnny Joints. Practically the same damn thing but I thought Id let you know.:)

Don't you mean 'Not to be an ass...' (Get it? Donkey? Hehe...sorry...couldn't resist)

How are Super-Flex & Johnny Joints practically the same thing as a 'Long Travel Quad Shock Set Up', which is what this thread & all the pics are about? Just wondering how you're using those joints to 'augment' shocks.:D