What have other people done to achieve this? The Dana 300 is so short that if you clock it, the front output shaft runs through the transmission pan. I suppose I could use a doubler and be able to clock it because that would give me the necessary push on the front of the case... but I don't have the money for the doubler set-up at this time, although I do have a dodge NP203 laying around. Also, for those running this set-up, without a doubler, and with twin-sticks, were you able to use the twin sticks? My omix-ada twin sticks interfere with the tranmission as well. I believe the currie sticks are extremely similar in design. I'm not too wild about grinding down the body of the transmission for this, although thats what it's looking like will have to happen.

i run a 999 with a flat clocked 300...tom woods makes a thin driveshaft with like a .220 wall (or something like that) just for this application...its close but it clears

How has the thin wall driveshaft held up for you? I'm running a 60 front on 39.5" IROKs. Also, I'm running a double cardan and probably a 3ish degree pinion angle. Unclocked, I can make it all work... it just sucks not having a flat belly.

same deal here, good info with the t. woods d-shaft i will have to look into that..

also interested in how it has been holding up

I have no problems with the tranny clearance.I used a Gotoguys ring.Clocked it flat with no BL.I am running a Chevy D44 fullwidth with a 2" shaft.

http://www.bc4x4.com/pv/yj/go2twister/go2twister.cfm

Found a nice write up about the clocking ring. Seems to be the way to go, although I'm not sure what it would act like with a double cardan.

the shaft wall itself is pretty thick and it has held up well..its just a straigt forward driveshaft..no double whatevers or cv's ....it does look kinda gay (its prolly 2" thick) and your boys on the trail will make fun of it sometimes but hey fuck it ..it works...
i did have the truck really bound up and snapped the yoke clean off the shaft..i sent it back and they replaced it...to me the weld didnt look like it penetrated very well...
im running 35spline 60's and 37's but i also dont really beat on the truck

The other alternative is to go with a two piece shaft. I ran a 727/300 clocked flat. I used a two piece shaft to get clearance around the pan.

I'm running the 999 and 300 combo with go 2 guys ring. got it flat with the stock driveshaft. I have a 72 chevy 44 in it cut down to keep the tires under the Jeep. Been running this setup for a good 6 yrs no problems with clearance issues. Looking for a 60 now. maybe I'll have problems then??Who knows.

Do you have any pictures of your two piece drive line? I have the 727 installed and know the drive shaft will run into the pan if I don't do something

I have a 5.0/C-6/Clocked flat 300 and HAD to use a two piece front D-line.Essentialy my dront D-line is shaped like a hockey stick.It is Tom woods from the T-case to the yoke past the Pillow block,then custom D44 axle shaft with the 1350 tigged in at the diff end(tigged to the shaft not the pinion).Even with the small od of the 44 shaft and the compact starter the shaft clears by 3/16.Works great for eveything but highspeed,top end of second gear,high range, it starts to shake the car apart:shaking: third gear is not an option.I put hubs in the front so I can unlock between trails and nuke around......we have a fix lined out,it's just invasive and will put the car down for a while

More info:Couple more things contributing to my issues and things to consider if youre building, my chassis is NARROW with the motor scooted way back and down,at ride height there is almost 6" of uptravel with the belly at 20" and the roof at 5'10",The front axle is a 63" kingpin and slides up in front of the harmonic balancer,so at full stuff the front D-line runs uphill.Ten pounds of shit in a five pound bag.....picks would speak volumes but I suck at the interweb sooooo

I am looking at the Tom Woods site now. Don't see anything yet. This is frustrating. So close, so far

There is nothing there for me to look at.

I looked at the site as well and saw nothing about the two piece stuff that I have.I purchased my parts through S-N FAB up here in WA. and they knew off the top of their head what I needed.

Would someone please post up some pictures of how they're running their 300 so I can get an idea where the pillow block (carrier bearing... whatever you call it)? GNA, I would really love to see your set-up.

My bro, LumberJack5500 on here, has a TF999 and a D300 clocked flat with Advance Adapter's ring. He runs a 2" shaft with no probs so far. Only issue so far was a grease fitting hitting the pan, but that didn't last long :D. We're centering the motor and tranny in the frame so it will be even better for him too (he has a YJ so it's offset to the passenger side as is). We aren't moving the drivetrain to creat more clearance to the tranny though, we are doing it for clearance to a bolt head in a front four link bracket it's close to.

the shaft wall itself is pretty thick and it has held up well..its just a straigt forward driveshaft..no double whatevers or cv's ....it does look kinda gay (its prolly 2" thick) and your boys on the trail will make fun of it sometimes but hey fuck it ..it works...
i did have the truck really bound up and snapped the yoke clean off the shaft..i sent it back and they replaced it...to me the weld didnt look like it penetrated very well...
im running 35spline 60's and 37's but i also dont really beat on the truck

Scouts came with a small diameter shaft like what you're describing stock. My buddy is using a reworked Scout shaft with his flipped d300/a904 combo. It is close, but it works fine.

That might be another option for those who are still searching for a solution.

There is nothing there for me to look at.

You can look at that super flex joint (http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html):grinpimp:

Go simple as PP suggested. I have a 727 and a CV won't fit without grinding the pan. But it's still too close for me. Tom talked me into an offset joint to help with the angle issue and I too am running a smaller dia shaft, with the slip up top. Look at an old waggy, they have a very thick, but small shaft.

Call, that's the easy way.

Anyone else running the AA clocking ring? I checked it out and it seems to be pretty thorough, including a new 23 spline input that I assume has something to do with how thick the clocking ring is and addressing oiling issues.

Is it necessary to go with the thickness of this clocking ring or will the skinnier, cheaper ones do the trick?

i have the go-2-guys ring ....clocked second to flat i think...might be flat ill have to look...
CALL tom woods...they knew exactly what i needed... barely clears the pan but it does....it was like $180 or $160...something like that...cheapest and easiest imo

i have the go-2-guys ring ....clocked second to flat i think...might be flat ill have to look...
CALL tom woods...they knew exactly what i needed... barely clears the pan but it does....it was like $180 or $160...something like that...cheapest and easiest imo

Are you sure on the price. GLO has them shipped to your door for $67
http://www.greatlakeoffroad.com/clock.html

Are you sure on the price. GLO has them shipped to your door for $67


no...but $67 for ANY driveshaft sounds very cheap...
i ordered it like 4 years ago...might have been $120...it was definately over $100..i remember it being $20 extra then the rear because it was thicker wall

I think one of you is talking about the clocking ring and the other the drive shaft. I have contacted GLO this morning for their clocking ring. I want to see if they will overnight it.

I will contact Tom this morning. I played with the silly thing till late last night and found an article from Jeep Off-Road.com that suggests all I might be able to dish the pan and add a spacer to my bump stop and use the straight shaft. I will play with that today too.

Thanks

I think one of you is talking about the clocking ring and the other the drive shaft.

Thanks


thats funny...i didnt realize it
i thought $67 was cheap for a d-shaft...i was going to call and order a couple just because:D

My front shaft is 32", which is what the CJ-7s with autos used. I think I might look for a stock CJ shaft to use until I break that, and step up to the Tom Woods thick-walled shaft when the rest of the cost of my build isn't looming overhead.

Anymore input on the clocking ring? (Whether or not a standard clocking ring will work with a TF999/D300 or if it's necessary to use the AA kit with the new input shaft)

I ran a 999/300 combo with a $55 dollar clocking ring I bought in the vendor section here (I think from desert cj). I now run a 727/300 combo with a TW thickwall front shaft. I trimmed a bit of the pan because of the 727.

I ran a 999/300 combo with a $55 dollar clocking ring I bought in the vendor section here

Same here.

Still waiting for them to call me back. In fact,I think I will call them now. I am sort of stopped until I know if I can clock this thing

Got it. Same price. But, I am having it overnighted so I can get it installed Saturday.

I am mating 300 to SM420 in my CJ5. I would like to clock it while I am doing this. It's tight up in there though. Sure would be nice to get some good CAD data so I can design an adapter that has better chance of fitting everything up. Anyone know where I might find D300 or SM420 CAD data?

For the price, This is a great unit. Fit perfectly and gives you 3 options for clocking. I had to use the lowest instead of the highest setting since the drive shaft would not fit in the others. But, the transfercase is back up there where I could adapt most of my original skid plate. I am ready to put oil in the trans and get it to the muffler shop.

Thanks for the help folks

SF, what driveshaft are you running? Found someone locally who is selling a GLO ring, and would like to buy it.. just unsure of the shaft to use.

What do you mean what drive shaft? The GLO goes between the Tcase and the trans. If you are referring to the front one, then it is now the standard 1 1/4" dia.

Well, I just fired this devil up and I have the leak. I need the extention that Shawn talked about. I cannot find anywhere where he gave a Part Number. And he is probably not working today.:confused:

I have a 727/300 clocked flat and am using a small DS with no problems. It's close to the pan but doesn't hit.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/nhodierne/Mvc-006f.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/nhodierne/skidplate1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/nhodierne/d8a37fb7.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/nhodierne/a745cb30.jpg

Amazing. Really! My drive shaft sets under the trans, just about where your skid plate stops on the pan. Thanks for the pictures.

I am yanking my down again as we speak.

Well, I just fired this devil up and I have the leak. I need the extention that Shawn talked about. I cannot find anywhere where he gave a Part Number. And he is probably not working today.:confused:

I don't have the number handy either, but its just a speedi sleeve, try NAPA

Yeah I know where the clocking ring goes. What I was referring to is whether or not you were using a small OD shaft, stock YJ, or what. I've found a CJ front driveshaft local for $65, so I'm going to pick that up and pick up the GLO clocking ring. I'm hoping for similar results as HO7... and the speedy sleeve, if anyone gets a part number before next monday, post it up. I'd like to pick one up before I get all my ish installed and have a leak too.

I had to put in the small shaft in order to make this work. And the number for the Speedy Sleeve is 99193. I can see no reason not to install the sleeve before installation. Why install it twice and have to clean up the mess in between time. Position the sleeve at least 3/8 away from the housing.

BTW, do you have some pictures of your linkage/cable setup. I installed mine and coming of the back of the transmission makes the shifter setup backwards. 1st is Park and Park is 1st. It looks like I have to switch the cable to some from the front of the trans. That might get interesting.

BTW, Happy New Year.

I figured out my own linkage setup off the bell housing. Take a look.
http://www.jeepshots.com/users/sf/JeepMod/

Looks good!

going to hate me, but I found out D.D. machine here on the board make a D300 clocking ring (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=558093)with more options

Plus make a ton of other cool stuff
twin stick (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397094)
D300 flip kit (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=505924)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=289757&stc=1&d=1172364230

Well I've gotten all of my parts rounded up (driveshaft, clocking ring, and speedi sleeve), and it should be clocked by the end of this week. SF or HO7, were you guys able to clock all the way up? I know that SF said that he was only able to use the lowest, but the comment he made after seeing H07 made me wonder if he re-clocked it. So after looking at the clocking ring, I assume that I need to take the studs out of the 300, use the flathead bolts to bolt the ring to the case, put the studs in the ring, then put it up to the transmission?

Mine is not clocked completely flat but you don't need too. As you can see mine tucks under the frame rails so I can have a flat skid plate.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/nhodierne/1557de35.jpg

H07, are you running the first, second, or third hole in the clocking ring? I mocked mine up last night using the first hole... I can clear my tranny but was unsure of whether or not I could get away with the second hole. SF, feel free to provide input.

Ok what's the leak and speedy sleeve you guys are talking about???
I have taken my case out 3 times, bought 3 seals and it still leaks.
I'm missing something obvious here. I tried the seal over the shaft each time, no grooves either. A dab of grease.

Still leaks.
It's a canadian guy from a few years ago for the clocking ring. 300 clocked almost flat behind a 727.
Now I went with a 231 doubler from DD and it still leaked.(removed clocking ring, doubler has clocking options!!!)

What's wrong?


My d-shaft was 2pcs with 727 to a narrowed d44.
I still had to use the 2pc with the doubler. ( I think my pumpkin is too centered)
I'm going to a 999.

Also how does the Art Carr shifter in the pics move through the gates. Push down on handle or simply zig-zag. ( I have two sons that watch everything I do so just curious if there is a lockout?)
Do you like the shifter. I still have the column. I love the set-up where's the plate from? DD.

Sorry for all the lame questions, two boys and a small business doesn't allow for too much browsing lately.
Thanks JC

The sleeve is a speedi sleeve, ID is 1.9375 (OD of front input shaft on D300). Napa should be able to look them up by ID size...

So is the sleeve to extend to seal?

I am mating 300 to SM420 in my CJ5. I would like to clock it while I am doing this. It's tight up in there though. Sure would be nice to get some good CAD data so I can design an adapter that has better chance of fitting everything up. Anyone know where I might find D300 or SM420 CAD data?

Hate to say but you will only to be able to clock the 300 one postion if that with a 420. The reverse hump is so large that the front yoke on the 300 hits it. I have tried every which way known to man except building a new adapter.

Steve

Yes, the sleeve extends the seal. - SF you were talking about 3/8" from the housing - transfer case I presume?

Can anyone answer about the maximum clocking ring setting for the 300? First or second hole? It's going in tomorrow morning, so I was wondering.

Not sure which hole I put it on. It's been a while since I installed it.

Just wanted to let the ones know who are doing this - I used the 1.25" OD standard two joint driveshaft with the GLO ring, and was able to clock it to the second hole, enabling a flat skid. And use of my twin sticks. I'm pleased with the GLO ring and how it turned out.