Last weekend I was out wheelin in my 94 YJ... some specs to help with my queastion are...

SOA w/1inch body lift
35 MTR
Detroit Locker (in rear)
4.10 Gears
Slip Yoke Eliminator

I was going up a steep hillside that has been attempted by MANY people so that it was VERY SLICK and only had some loose dirt and skid marks (hard packed), there was a few bumps going up..

Anyway... about half way up the hill I hit a bump, go over it, and then here a LOUD POP sound from the rear (like the locker sounds if you don't drive it right on the street.. but 2 times as loud) I cannot go up the hill anymore... so I go back down in reverse to the bottom to check for damage...

The clamps that hold my rear u-joint on had snapped on one side leaving the sheered bolts in the yoke (that goes in the diff.) and also tossing the u-joint out and the caps off. A piece of the rear yoke also broke off from the stress caused by the broken clamp.

---My Question is---
Was this mosy likely from one bolt on the side of the clamp being loose and the jolt of the bump caused it to snap or was the locker putting to much stress on the driveline, and thus breaking the clamp as the weekest point....????
:confused:


Any opinions would be great!!! What would you do??

Originally posted by 94YJGuy
---My Question is---
Was this mosy likely from one bolt on the side of the clamp being loose and the jolt of the bump caused it to snap or was the locker putting to much stress on the driveline, and thus breaking the clamp as the weekest point....????
:confused:


Any opinions would be great!!! What would you do??

Those cap-and-bolt yoke arrangements on newer Jeeps suck, plain and simple. They break all the time. Designed to break if you ask me...

The story I've heard is that the straps start to stretch, causing the bolts to loosen until the whole affair explodes... I've read that you can (somewhat) mitigate this problem by using Loctite on the bolts.

A better answer is to switch to yokes that use U-bolts instead of straps. You can also drill out the holes in your stock strap-type yokes to accommodate U-bolts. I've read that this can weaken the yoke, but many people on this board have had good luck with it, so I'll let you make that call...

The BEST answer, however is to switch to a 1350-series (one-ton) shaft. Got mine comin' from Jess later this week... ;)

HTH,
Jake

Thanks for the info, what type of modifications will needed to be done to accomodate the 'one-tone' shaft and yoke?

"What All" will I need?, and where can I find the products at?


Thank YOU!!

Originally posted by 94YJGuy
Thanks for the info, what type of modifications will needed to be done to accomodate the 'one-tone' shaft and yoke?

"What All" will I need?, and where can I find the products at?


Thank YOU!!

SYE
Flange for the SYE
Custom Yoke for teh D35c.

talk to Jess, went through this once before myself. (putting in a 1-ton CV driveline before getting around to swapping the D35c)

Thanks, I shot him off an e-mail....

Originally posted by twaldher


SYE
Flange for the SYE
Custom Yoke for teh D35c.

talk to Jess, went through this once before myself. (putting in a 1-ton CV driveline before getting around to swapping the D35c)

Yeah, what he said.

I'd just add that a one-ton shaft is probably overkill for an NP 231 (unless you have a heavy-duty shaft SYE) and definitely overkill for a D35C. But, if you're planning on swapping in a bigger axle later on, this is definitely the way to go.

Jake

Ok thanks.

What type of price are we talking about here?

Any estimates?

Originally posted by 94YJGuy
Ok thanks.

What type of price are we talking about here?

Any estimates?

Mine came in at around $630 USD. That's for 1350 series flange/C-V shaft/yoke going from an NP 241 to a Waggy 44. If you already have an SYE, yours would be around the same. If you don't already have an SYE, I guess that'd be another couple hundred anyhow for a HD (241-size) mainshaft kit... (I'm just guessing on the price of the HD shaft kit sans 1310 CV driveshaft... They usually come together.)

Talk to Jess about that.

If you are running an SYE/C-V shaft already, a new 1310 U-bolt type yoke for your 35C should be around $30 to $50 (wild guess)and a few extra bucks for the u-bolts.

If you just wanna re-drill you're still going to need a new strap-type yoke (since I think you said yours broke) for around $30-$40 I suppose and a few extra bucks for a drill bit and some U-bolt straps. (Not really worthe the savings since you have to buy a new yoke either way...)

If you still have a standard drive shaft and slip-yoke, (and with 35s you're either SOA or an SUA with tons of lift) get that shit fixed with an SYE/C-V or you'll just keep eating U-joints every 10K miles.

HTH,
Jake

Well I found a good junkyard CV from a Cherokee and had it re-tubed with a 1350 series (1-ton) slip and spline. I didn't need a new yoke because my 14bolt is 1350 series stock.

Cost:
$13- junkyard shaft w/ 1310 CV
$140- 1350 Slip & Spline along with re-tube and 1350 joint.

Add the cost of your yoke for the 35c and you're set. I had the shaft done at the local Fleet Pride. They do nice work and had it done in one afternoon.

These CVs from waggy's and cherokees bolt up to the Advance Adapters and JB conversions SYE that have a yoke. Not the one with a flange (I think Currie makes it :confused: )

You could get the yoke for probably $50-60 and be done for ~$200. I always keep my shaft work with local guys just out of principal. They are close, good to know in a pinch (read- quick replacement in 1 hr), and it's always quick to get what you need.

do you run a traction bar, my axle wrap is unreal since i went SOA

Nope. SUA. No traction bar needed.

My Setup from Jess was somewhere around 1100 for front and rear shafts and all the goodies, flanges etc.. I have the exreme clearance on the front! You should see the clearance. It really helps you stay away from that TH350. The shafts are awesome. And when you call you talk to the man that is in charge. You dont get that anymore....