Whats the best way to link a front end.
Daily driver.
Triangulate (bump steer??)
Panhard (can't be made the same length as my draglink -8" shorter)
Panhard is @10 degree
Any ideas?? Thanks:smokin:

ttt

3 link has the least bind
panhards are simple

if you can get the draglink close to parralel with the ground a 3 link will not have much if any noticable bumpsteer. Just a little info

have you given any thought to some sort of wristed radius arms?

-Steve

neroktoy you must be refering to wishbonestyle?
the best bumpsteer solution on them would be to have the draglink in the same plane and length as a suspension link (fore aft)

Triangulated 3 or 4 link.
Bump steer is not a problem, you just need to fix the steering problem you have right now.
ericfilar@fatcity

can you elaborate on this

Bump steer is not a problem, you just need to fix the steering problem you have right now

is it 'live with it'?

Originally posted by mj
can you elaborate on this
is it 'live with it'?

Sorry, replied in a hurry, what vehicle or chassis are you talking about?

Triangulated 3-4 link is still the ticket either way.

Its aTJ D60 HP coil springs
I was think'en of a link from the cntr of the axle to the end of a lower link to control side to side
Trying not to limit my steering when flexed
What do ya think 1 or 2 upper links?
Thanks:smokin:

I dont think chassis matters.
what steering style would you use on a triangulated locating or wishbone front axle that would not have bumpsteer as a problem?
common thoughts on this board is to have the steering linkage follow the panhard rod. If I recall you dont like panhard style locating, makes sense as it will pull and push the axle under the vehicle depending on suspension hieght.
other then full hydro, I figure a push pull style steering link that follows the parallel susp link would be the answer but I havent seen you mention a preference on here, though I may have missed it with the huge volume on this board.

I wouldnt go for a triangulated 3-4 link if you have a steering box. Now although you can set up your drag link to be parallel with the ground to not get much bump steer what will happen as the axle is articulated is will self steer. This will happen cause the knuckle that the drag link is connected to will move closer and further away from the steering box as the axle articulates. Now you can turn your steering wheel to correct this but it will be a PITA and when articulated you will loose a lot of lock one way (and then loose the opposite lock the outher way).

IMO triangulated 3-4 links are good for full hydro and panhards are good for steering boxes.

Why dont people like panhards??????

Sam

Yep I'm runn'en a steering box w/ Ram assist
I thought length of panhard made a differance.
Mine would be 8" or so shorter, thats why is was looking for differant alts.
Is the length of the panhard a big factor??
So what do ya think of runn'en 2 lowers & 2 uppers & a panhard?? Or just a single upper to control rap??
Thanks for the imput:smokin:

ttt

anybody got pics of their linked front end and how well it works?

I guess that 2 lowers, 2 uppers and a panhard is the best (strongest) way to go. But theres nothing wrong with only one upper. If you have only one upper then its best to put it smack in the middle. If it isnt then you will notice some self steering under brakes/accaleration on the road cause the mounts arnt symetric.

If you go 2uppers and 2lowers then I think that the arms need to be the same length and parallel so that you dont get any binding. If the uppers are shorter then they will bind some what but if you use rubber bushes then it will act more like a mild anti sway bar than something that will stop front articulating.

Ive never built my own links but am about to cause im building up another chassis/complete drivechain for my rover body.

Sam

Originally posted by Strange Rover
but am about to cause im building up another chassis/complete drivechain for my rover body.

Sam


Your a sick man Sam...Very sick indeed.

:flipoff2:

--D