high output alternator [Archive]

fj40guy

06-25-2002, 11:37 AM

Donald,

There are a couple of links on Woody' I H8 MUD (http://www.ih8mud.com) Web site.

One just shows the alternator being bolted up. Another link shows the electrical connection, but not sure on the wire being used for the "SENSE" Terminal. Still a good description.

From the TOP OF MY HEAD (I've forgotten more than I ever knew):

On the later INTERNALLY REGULATED GM (Delco) Alernators, there are four connections that need to be made. "Power", "Ground", Sense, Ignition on. The later 2 are connected via a two prong connector that slides in the back of the alternator housing.

One nice thing about GM Units, there are many variations on where the 2 prong connectors are located on the housing. Typically either at 12 O'clock, 3 O'clock, 6 O'clock, 9 O'clock. Most knowledgeable parts counter folks will know what you mean when you tell them you need the connector at what position.

FOUR CONNECTIONS:

OUTPUT : Big stud, connected directly to the "+" terminal of the battery. 10 gauge wire is a good size for this connection, but 8 gauge wire is better.

GROUND: No surprise, typically right on the alternator housing is the ground studs. I also wire it with the same size wire as the Power connection, right off the battery.

On the two spade connectors:
Terminal 1 is the LAMP connection. Typically this is powered up when the ignition key is to the "run position" then through a dash lamp. It serves two purposes, one is to tell the alternator when the ignition is on. Second as a warning lamp when the alternator fails. Catch is to turn on the dash lamp, it needs to ground itself through it's internal electronics. You need either the lamp, or the "resistance wire" that GM builds into the harness on vehicles without an ammeter. In reality the resistance wire is typically an undersized wire that is six feet long. Without the lamp, or resistance wire, it is possible to damage the alternators internal regulator. Some alternators tolerate a "short circuit", others do not. I used a power resistor from Radio Shack, 22 Ohm 10 Watt.

Terminal 2 is the SENSE connection. Typically a smaller wire (18 gauge is fine) from the battery "+" connection. As the name implies it is used to sense the battery voltage. On some alternators there is no "SENSE" connection, as it is internally connected to the OUTPUT connection

Just unplug your stock voltage regulator, if you have one. Store with the old Alternator in your Emergency spare box.

NOTE: ON the Output Connection: my description will bypass the ammeter. If you want the ammeter to function correctly, the battery is wired to one side of the ammeter. The alternator and electrical loads are wired to the other side of the ammeter. I highly recommend using a fusible link if you have an ammeter. Install one right off the battery, another right off the Alternators OUTPUT connection. If the ammeter gets shorted to ground the fusible links will prevent an electrical fire. Still a good idea is you have a connection directly from the alternator to the battery, but typically that wire is exposed as easily seen and inspected. Wires running under the dash, or to a remotely mounted battery are not so easily inspected.

Comments/Questions???

Tom :usa:


Pirate4x4.Com > Brand Specific Tech > Toyota - Land Cruiser > high output alternator PDA : high output alternator Danny128 06-24-2002, 11:07 AM Which ones are good? I've only heard of the mean-green ones, but have heard good stuff about them. Also, where is the best place to get them. Thanks. texican 06-24-2002, 11:25 AM You can adapt a mid 80's GM internally reg alt, easily, they come in a 100 amp model, way cheaper, and any parts house keeps them w/lifetime warranty. I have had 3 on 40's. 2F and V8 type. Butch Donald Butcher 06-24-2002, 01:03 PM can you give us some more info on this Texican? thanks Donald :beer: :usa: fj40guy 06-25-2002, 11:37 AM Donald, There are a couple of links on Woody' I H8 MUD (http://www.ih8mud.com) Web site. One just shows the alternator being bolted up. Another link shows the electrical connection, but not sure on the wire being used for the "SENSE" Terminal. Still a good description. From the TOP OF MY HEAD (I've forgotten more than I ever knew): On the later INTERNALLY REGULATED GM (Delco) Alernators, there are four connections that need to be made. "Power", "Ground", Sense, Ignition on. The later 2 are connected via a two prong connector that slides in the back of the alternator housing. One nice thing about GM Units, there are many variations on where the 2 prong connectors are located on the housing. Typically either at 12 O'clock, 3 O'clock, 6 O'clock, 9 O'clock. Most knowledgeable parts counter folks will know what you mean when you tell them you need the connector at what position. FOUR CONNECTIONS: OUTPUT : Big stud, connected directly to the "+" terminal of the battery. 10 gauge wire is a good size for this connection, but 8 gauge wire is better. GROUND: No surprise, typically right on the alternator housing is the ground studs. I also wire it with the same size wire as the Power connection, right off the battery. On the two spade connectors: Terminal 1 is the LAMP connection. Typically this is powered up when the ignition key is to the "run position" then through a dash lamp. It serves two purposes, one is to tell the alternator when the ignition is on. Second as a warning lamp when the alternator fails. Catch is to turn on the dash lamp, it needs to ground itself through it's internal electronics. You need either the lamp, or the "resistance wire" that GM builds into the harness on vehicles without an ammeter. In reality the resistance wire is typically an undersized wire that is six feet long. Without the lamp, or resistance wire, it is possible to damage the alternators internal regulator. Some alternators tolerate a "short circuit", others do not. I used a power resistor from Radio Shack, 22 Ohm 10 Watt. Terminal 2 is the SENSE connection. Typically a smaller wire (18 gauge is fine) from the battery "+" connection. As the name implies it is used to sense the battery voltage. On some alternators there is no "SENSE" connection, as it is internally connected to the OUTPUT connection Just unplug your stock voltage regulator, if you have one. Store with the old Alternator in your Emergency spare box. NOTE: ON the Output Connection: my description will bypass the ammeter. If you want the ammeter to function correctly, the battery is wired to one side of the ammeter. The alternator and electrical loads are wired to the other side of the ammeter. I highly recommend using a fusible link if you have an ammeter. Install one right off the battery, another right off the Alternators OUTPUT connection. If the ammeter gets shorted to ground the fusible links will prevent an electrical fire. Still a good idea is you have a connection directly from the alternator to the battery, but typically that wire is exposed as easily seen and inspected. Wires running under the dash, or to a remotely mounted battery are not so easily inspected. Comments/Questions??? Tom :usa: