I want to replace mine, where can I get them?? CHEAP!! (they're gonna get dinged a little anyway, no reason to spend a fortune)

Pertinent autozone type info:

1978 International ScoutII
2-door
4wd
345
tf727
d20
3/4T D44 front (full size chevy)
14bolt rear (full size chevy)
37" tires

also considering replacing the front floor pans and driver and pass body mounts under the front floor pans.

Help me out here guys.:beer:

Yours so rusted they are not salvagable?

I'll make you a good deal on a set of cracked rockers.. I have almost a full set of exhausts... no rust!

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/trips/2001/trip01.jpg

Oh, you didn't mean those rockers? :D

Originally posted by tsm1mt
I'll make you a good deal on a set of cracked rockers.. I have almost a full set of exhausts... no rust!

Oh, you didn't mean those rockers? :D

:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Hooper
Yours so rusted they are not salvagable?

When I step on them they crunch and cave in about 1.5" Other than that they're fine. I know my mounts would last me, but I figure "while I'm there"

You are still in great shape, you can't see the ground yet. :D

Originally posted by Cliffhanger


When I step on them they crunch and cave in about 1.5" Other than that they're fine. I know my mounts would last me, but I figure "while I'm there"

You don't need to replace them until they look like this:

http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/tetanus/Images/Gutted/P0000164.JPG

Once everything is gone except for the pinch weld on the bottom, then it is time to replace them. :flipoff2:

You want inners, outers, or both? I also have some 16ga sheet metal that I cut into nice chunks to replace my rusted out floors, they are not perfect but they have the seat holes and the seatbelt holes in the right spots. Only real problem is that since my lip for the weather stripping was gone, I cut them to go al the way out. But nothing you can't fix. Also, the driver's side is gonna need some work to fill in two spots in the front and back cause I cut too much away. Anyway, I don't have pics right now but if you are interested, I'd sell them for cheap cause they are just taking up space in a friend's shop. How cheap? e-mail me.

One thing i have herd about is making some out of 2x4 square stock. I have a spare tub i was thinking i might try it. only thing holding me back is that it is rust free.

Steve

Yeah I was thinking of makins something into a "molded in" rock slider, but I've got a buddy who does bodwork and thought I'd go the stock route.

I guess I'd want inner and outer plus the floorpans.(I guess I could fab floor pans easy enough)

PS: there's no way I'm gonna wait till I can see the ground, that's how my first blazer body was when I got it (well not quite as bad as above though)

Anyone got pics of a molded in set of rock sliders doubling as the stock rockers.

The stock rockers (inner and outer) are made out of some heavy gauge metal. It's probably 14 gauge. When these two pieces are welded together, they form a "box" beam. This beam is the major structural component connecting the A pillar to the B pillar and also providing rigidity to the body to keep it from 'taco'-ing. The problem with replacing the rockers comes into play with the aftermarket replacement rockers. These things are THIN (maybe 18 guage) cheesy little things but most importantly, they are cut out to fit AROUND the A and B pillars. These things are NOT structural and are cosmetic at best. Now I have seen some vendors who have some passenger side NOS outers but there doesn't seem to be any NOS driver side outers available.

When I replaced mine, I was able to cut a good passenger outer off of a donor tub but I had to buy one of those cheesey aftermarket POS things for the driver side. I ended up welding a 2 x 2 x 3/16 angle the entire length of the inner (for structural support) and tied the angle to the A and B pillars and then concealed that with the cheesy cosmetic cap. If I had it to do all over again, I would probably just use rectangular tube. You could cut the one side off the tube at an angle and weld a piece of plate back on to more closely match the body lines if you were worried about that.

Thanks TORC, that great info. The body guy that's helping me said that if I can't find any rockers he could "bend some up" but maybe I'll just to the rectangle tubing instead and cut the angle (yes that is the concern)

Next question then TORC, if the aftermaket peices are cheesy and only fit "in between" the A and B pillars, what is the proper way to fab in the rectangluar tubing in order to the the factor support back???

Or will this become apparent when I do the work??

PICS would be sweet.

If your inner rocker is good the after market outer rockers work good and if welded in right they will keep the structual support (drill the spot welds out at the floor). I have never had any problems with them aqnd have replaced about 6 pairs on my trucks and outhers, Don't get them from AT Scouts they don't fit good, the best ones are from Super Scout.

Originally posted by tsm1mt
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/trips/2001/trip01.jpg
Oh, you didn't mean those rockers? :D

MAN~ Tommy made a funny...and its actually a decent funny....:D :D :D ~ Is it the second coming? Did hell freeze over?

Originally posted by Snoopy


MAN~ Tommy made a funny...and its actually a decent funny....:D :D :D ~ Is it the second coming? Did hell freeze over?

Yeah, and he made me do a double take, thinking I misread the first post and was thinking of the wrong rockers....

Originally posted by Snoopy


MAN~ Tommy made a funny...and its actually a decent funny....:D :D :D ~ Is it the second coming? Did hell freeze over?

:laughing: :bounce: :shaking: :bounce2: :laughing:
:laughing: :bounce: :shaking: :bounce2: :laughing:

That's too good. I enjoyed it.

Ritch

Originally posted by Cliffhanger


When I step on them they crunch and cave in about 1.5" Other than that they're fine. I know my mounts would last me, but I figure "while I'm there"

Buy some SSII inserts, toss your doors, add some square tubing along the bottom, and call it good. :D

http://www.ihssii.org/Hooper/Images-Technical/RockerGuards.jpg

:eek: :eek: THE HOOPSTER THINKS ME RICH :eek: :eek:

The only reason I'm doing this is to add structural support,make it look good, and so when I paint it I won't have rust coming through after a week!!

Thanks for the info on checking out the inner rocker first Terra~.:beer:

Just use some box-tubing and get it over with! No more crunchy-crunchy that way.

If a fellah were really concerned, maybe fab up a triangular "tube".. some heavier wall vertical stuff for the new inner, some lighter gauge for the "top" (parallel to the ground) and some mid-weight for the "angle" that would be visible on the outside of the rig, starting at the outer edge of the floor and bringing it in under the new "inner" rocker.

Follow the body lines a bit with it..

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
:eek: :eek: THE HOOPSTER THINKS ME RICH :eek: :eek:

The only reason I'm doing this is to add structural support,make it look good, and so when I paint it I won't have rust coming through after a week!!

Thanks for the info on checking out the inner rocker first Terra~.:beer:

Ah, that money thing. It always seems to get in the way. I have the same problem. Can't seem to get the $$ together for my gears/crawler box so I can get bigger tires. <sigh>

Haven't priced replacement rockers. Can't even see my rockers, so I have no idea what kind of shape they are in. Ah well, what I don't know can't hurt me.... ;)

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
Thanks TORC, that great info. The body guy that's helping me said that if I can't find any rockers he could "bend some up" but maybe I'll just to the rectangle tubing instead and cut the angle (yes that is the concern)

Next question then TORC, if the aftermaket peices are cheesy and only fit "in between" the A and B pillars, what is the proper way to fab in the rectangluar tubing in order to the the factor support back???

Or will this become apparent when I do the work??

PICS would be sweet.

Should be pretty appearant. The top of the rocker assembly (inner and outer) attaches to the bottom of the A pillar and to the bottom of the center body mount (the one at the 'step'). I don't have any pictures of the box tubing method since I went the other route. If you have any of the original assembly left, you can look at the cross-section to approximate the correct shape to match the body lines. I do have some pics of the 'concealed angle iron' method... it's hell for stout. And yes I did get the outer from AT Scouts and yes I didn't fit very well. What I determined is that from the inner rocker out, the new outer was about 1/4" too wide and is a little too tall. Then it dawned on me that this would fit AROUND a stock rocker and tried it. Sure enough, fit good. That leads me to believe it was designed as a 'clip on' type designed to go over the top of the existing just covering up the rust holes.:barf: :barf: To get it to fit good, I ended up splitting the rocker from front to back along the bottom surface, removing 1/4" and then butt welding the whole thing back together. Then the dimesions were pretty close to what they were supposed to be. If you want to see the pics of the 'angle iron method', let me know and I can dig them out and post them tonight.

Yeah if you can post those for me, just for kicks, I think I have an idea of how they'd looks, but a picture says a thousand words.

If I was gonna do it again...or if I ever have to I would use box metal, but here is what i did first. (along with floor pans)

Originally posted by Cliffhanger
Yeah if you can post those for me, just for kicks, I think I have an idea of how they'd looks, but a picture says a thousand words.

Here is the angle iron running from end to end on the outside of the inner rocker.
http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0000563.JPG

I capped this with an aftermarket outer rocker and grafted on the stamped end pieces from an old rocker. This is the piece that the front fender overlaps and bolts to.
http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0000567.JPG

Top front of left rocker assembly. I sealed the seam between the angle iron and the inner rocker with seam sealer to keep water and dirt out before I capped it.
http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0000570.JPG

The angle iron made a nice stout surface to attach to the bottom of the door pillar. Same thing at the rear where it attached to the bottom of the center body mount.
http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0000678.JPG

Rocker assembly tacked on. Seems like I always wait a day or two before I do the final welding in case I see something I don't like later. It's a hell of a lot easier to reposition if it's just tacked on. :D
http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0000720.JPG

Hey Torc,

Is that an aftermarket piece, salvaged piece, or did you fab it yourself?? I haven't been able to find any of those (rocker jams)??

Anybody know where I can find some ( other than cutting them out of a scout )?

Originally posted by daleviathan
Hey Torc,

Is that an aftermarket piece, salvaged piece, or did you fab it yourself?? I haven't been able to find any of those (rocker jams)??

Anybody know where I can find some ( other than cutting them out of a scout )?

That is a salvaged piece.... and believe me, one of those worth salvaging is HARD to find (at least in my neck of the woods). They are not available aftermarket in steel. The dies were lost or destroyed long ago. I have seen them available in fiberglass, though. I strongly believe that these pieces are structural and provide a lot of 'anti-taco' resistance. I would think that if you used the fiberglass ones on a steel tub, it would be cosmetic (unless you were able figure out some clever way of concealing a gusset under the 'glass piece). Good luck....

Cut rocker of and weld 2x6 box tubing.