Wich is the right way to adjust the tv cable of my 700r4??
I have a 350 SBC with a Holley truck avenger, and if I bolt the tv cable to the linkage of the carb, the cable stay pulled all the time.
I know they sell a special bracket, but I think I can fabricate my own, if I know how the cable needs to stay in close throttle position and in full open position (???????)

Any help, apprecciate

correct adjustment is kinda tricky - you need to pull your pan and look at the TV "plunger" - at idle, the cam should be just touching, but not pushing in the plunger -

see:

http://www.tvmadeez.com/graphics/installpics/02.jpg

if it's any farther depressed, it will downshift harder, and not upshift correct, as it will think you have the gas pushed farther down than you really do.


at WOT, the plunger should be fully depressed, see:

http://www.tvmadeez.com/graphics/installpics/03.jpg

this is critical - if it doesn't go fully depressed, you're not getting full line pressure, and you're causing premature wear on your clutches, and risking total failure of the tranny.

you can play w/ the arc - to make it go from open to closed quicker or slower, to give a different feel to the tranny - but make sure it goes to fully depressed when your throttle is depressed fully.

hth,

Kincade, YOU ARE THE MAN !!!!
:) :) :) :) :)
Thanks for the info, that's what I was looking for. Actually, what I'm feeling right now is what you describe, when I push the gas pedal a little, the tranny reacts like I'm standing on it. Also, I feel like I need to take out the right foot a little bit to make it upshifting, is that for the same reason??. I can see that the most critical point, is to be sure that at full throtle, the valve is full depressed.....

Originally posted by SVARAS
Kincade, YOU ARE THE MAN !!!!
:) :) :) :) :)
Thanks for the info, that's what I was looking for. Actually, what I'm feeling right now is what you describe, when I push the gas pedal a little, the tranny reacts like I'm standing on it. Also, I feel like I need to take out the right foot a little bit to make it upshifting, is that for the same reason??. I can see that the most critical point, is to be sure that at full throtle, the valve is full depressed.....

actually, you'd be surprised - MOST people have their TV set up wrong - most think you just move it in and out to set the down/upshift points - but doing that screws up the geometry, and will change the endpoints as well.

yes - if you need to pull out your gas a little to make it upshift, its pushed in too far for that amount of throttle - the tranny thinks you're flooring it, and is giving you late/hard shifts for it!

I need to get back into my tranny and play with this again. because of the linkage on my throttle body i couldnt' adjust the travel there so i did it by drilling a hole farther up the arm the cable attaches to in the tranny, but it still doesn't quite stuff all the way in. the only problems i've noticed so far are that it doesn't always downshift when i want it to.

Dallas

Originally posted by StinkBug
I need to get back into my tranny and play with this again. because of the linkage on my throttle body i couldnt' adjust the travel there so i did it by drilling a hole farther up the arm the cable attaches to in the tranny, but it still doesn't quite stuff all the way in. the only problems i've noticed so far are that it doesn't always downshift when i want it to.

Dallas

you can also play w/ where the stud mounts - at a 90 degree angle from the throttle shaft, it will travel very quickly to it's full travel - giving hard/late upshifts at light throttle, but being slightly safer. at 130 degrees or so, it will travel slower to it's midpoint, giving you softer/earlier shifts at light throttle.

clear as mud? just watch the arc it swings in - it'll make sense.

i know exactly what your saying kincaid, the problem is i cant move the post around. Since i'm running SMPI there is so much crap around there that i didn't have room to make a bracket or bolt on a stud, so i'm using the stud thats there for the cruise control cable that im not using. i wish i had more to work with there, but i spent a ton of time during the swap trying to figure something out, and this was the best i could get, it just needs some more tweaking, and i'm lazy.

Dallas

When I upgraded to a 700R4 my tranny builder whom had done a lot of conversions gave me the dimension of the bracket that needed to be made. It showed the arc diameter and degrees of start and finish pull required for proper operation. I'll see if I can dig it up but it may be "lost" in the pile... of installation instructions I have collected over the years with various cars and trucks.

Jason

Originally posted by StinkBug
i know exactly what your saying kincaid, the problem is i cant move the post around. Since i'm running SMPI there is so much crap around there that i didn't have room to make a bracket or bolt on a stud, so i'm using the stud thats there for the cruise control cable that im not using. i wish i had more to work with there, but i spent a ton of time during the swap trying to figure something out, and this was the best i could get, it just needs some more tweaking, and i'm lazy.

Dallas

yeah - i had to make and weld a custom bracket to my TB - i'm running the ford EFI, multiport too - just make sure it goes far enough in, or you'll be doing a tranny again...