This is an idea I've had for awhile & it's a variation of an old theme. You see guys putting S-10's & such on full-size frames. Well, I want to go the opposite direction. Looking at sticking an early 60's Chevy shortbed body on a 1st-gen Toyota longbed frame. Primarily, I think I could wind up with a relatively lightweight "full-size" truck. And this lets me run a Chevy V8 in competition w/o any issues pretty much anywhere I go (unlike the Toyota body I have now). The Toy frame is 112" wheelbase vs. 115" for an early 60's shortbed. I figure the front spring pins can be redrilled an inch forward & the rears can be dealt with somehow (maybe bob 2" out of the front section of the bed). It's a wood bed from the factory, so if I were to say put in 1/2" plywood, it would still be considered a "complete" body :evil:

Stumbled across an old truck today. It's a 2wd, and the track width is pretty narrow. 71" from the outside of one rear tire to the outside of the other. So, I could probably even get away with using the Toy axles if I keep the tires at 35" or less (will upgrade when I go to 38.5's).


Thoughts???

V8 and 35's unless you build up the axles quite a bit still scares me. id be comfortable with 22re and 38's... but HP would scare me a little bit. other than that.. don't see why the idea wouldn't work. how much weight u planning on saving with a 'small' frame. no way trim some fat off of a "narrow" full size p/u?

:edit: i see gumbo mud something in ur sig... i PERSONALLY woudln't run the toy axles mudding with high hp. high RPM, high HP, mud and axle comparable to D44=BOOm imho

Maybe I shoulda clarified some of the plans - I already HAVE a 1980 Toyota longbed with a 408" SBC & Q78 TSL's on the stock Toy running gear. In 10 years of competition, I've broken 2 R&P's and no axles. They're not REAL durable, but they do okay & help out a lot with ground clearance. If I go to 38.5's down the road (which will also mean a lot more motor), I'll do a 44/9" combo most likely.

Anyhow, if you've seen the frames on these things, they're WAY small compared to say a 70's Chevy. Plus, the other thing is that if I use the 60's body, I'm almost going to have to do either a frame swap or some custom suspension regardless, so why not start with something light? And the earlier bodies are much lighter than typical 70's stuff. So, between the light frame, light body, and some clever gutting I'd hope to come in under 4,000lbs with an iron-head smallblock. Hopefully, more like 3,600 :evil:

44 is a step and a half backwards from a toy axle... Just got 60/9in or 60/14bff or 60/70 and be done with it.

Tex, I know your idea, i like your approach.

you should save about 300 lbs in weight over using th stock components.

I think when youre done, your weight will be right around 3300 lbs, which would be very respectable for what it is. You know exactly how creative to get, too. every bit of bracing will have to come out.

after all is said and done, you will have a pretty fast truck.

the only reason i used a stock chevy frame on mine is because thats what i have.


think 3/8 plywood.

TEX, i would leave the the toy with the original body, project sounds good but i think u will run into alot of problems. also why dont u post some pics of the rig ur talking about with the 400 sbc that ur talkin about is already in there

60's body,...... Hopefully, more like 3,600 :evil:

Those bodys are prety heavy. Not sure exactly how your rules read but you will proubly have to build a cage/body mount system that is as wide as the origional body.

Personaly if you don't have to stick with a factory frame I would build a full space frame and ditch the body. With your kind of racing you should be able to get away with a single piece of DOM as your "frame rail" (the toy frame isn't much stronger). Then tie your full cage into all your motor and suspension mounts.

You see a lot of guys boxing their frame. You don't need to add that weight if you were to do a proper space frame...

44 is a step and a half backwards from a toy axle... Just got 60/9in or 60/14bff or 60/70 and be done with it.


60 front would be like throwing out the anchor. I realize 44 axles are no better than the Toy, but if I wind up with 5.38 gears or something like that, the R&P will be much better. And again, 9" is as big as I'd go in back as well.

TEX, i would leave the the toy with the original body, project sounds good but i think u will run into alot of problems. also why dont u post some pics of the rig ur talking about with the 400 sbc that ur talkin about is already in there

Here's my pile as it sits today:

http://www.gumbo4x4.com/Gumbo157.JPG

If I do this, I'll probably build a whole 'nuther truck from scratch rather than pull this one apart.

Those bodys are prety heavy. Not sure exactly how your rules read but you will proubly have to build a cage/body mount system that is as wide as the origional body.

I'll probably put a cage in it, but this is for a street legal class, so the rules don't require one.

Personaly if you don't have to stick with a factory frame I would build a full space frame and ditch the body. With your kind of racing you should be able to get away with a single piece of DOM as your "frame rail" (the toy frame isn't much stronger). Then tie your full cage into all your motor and suspension mounts.

I have to run an OEM frame, it just doesn't have to be from THAT truck. To get into the classes I want to be in at some events though, I do have to have the correct suspension type for the body, and the correct engine brand for the body. Personally, I find it kind of odd that I'd be allowed to run a 572" big block in a 1/2 ton truck that originally came with a 305, but can't run a hydraulic cammed 350 in a Jeep or Toyota. But, whatever :laughing:

You see a lot of guys boxing their frame. You don't need to add that weight if you were to do a proper space frame...

Yeah, no need for that, especially if you tie the cage into the frame.

Oh yeah, my other option is to get a Toyota V8 & stick it in there, but being a "Chevy guy" all my life, it's always irked me that I got stuck with a Toyota body in the first place. But, it was a lot cheaper & easier than doing an S-10, sooooooooo :laughing::laughing::laughing:

toyota frame rails may be a little smaller

but they are fully boxed

or at least 84-88 ones are,, dunno other years but i imagine all years were




unlike GM ones

i own an 88 toyota pickup have for over three years now

my dad stuck a 400sb in a little datsun pickup once, had to cut out the firewall and do other things

I have to run an OEM frame, ....... I do have to have the correct suspension type for the body ....... and the correct engine brand for the body.

How about a LUV ??? Did the 4wd model use a solid front axle?

How about a LUV ??? Did the 4wd model use a solid front axle?

The LUV body is almost a perfect match for the Toyota frame & I even know where one sits that I could potentially have for free. Unfortunately, those were IFS. Although, some of the places that have the "chevy engine in a chevy body" rule don't have the suspension rule. And in looking closer at the place that does have the suspension rule AND the engine rule, it does say "no body swaps". OTOH, most guys won't know what they're looking at on an older rig as long as everything lines up okay (which it may or may not do).

Also thinking down the line going with a big-block & moving up a class where body swaps are okay, but big-block mini-trucks are kind of a no-no.

I guess what it all REALLY boils down to is after a decade with the truck pretty much as-is, I'm ready for something different & I like a build that's somewhat outside the box, especially one that's outside the box in a subtle sort of way ;)


TEX