Been reading up on this and I've found that most people have no problems clocking their D300.

Care to comment on any concerns I might have about using a clocking ring?

Has anyone used one of these from Great Lake Offroad?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NP208-NP241-Dana-300-Clocking-Ring-Transfer-Case-60_W0QQitemZ260185304901QQihZ016QQcategoryZ33728QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I have a T-18 with Novak Adapter (old style - no clocking option) for 84 CJ-8.

I asked Novak if they could redrill my current adapter, and what they though of clocking, and this was the response:

Our older version of this adapter has gussets right in the way of where the new clocking holes end up. For us to get around this problem, we were required to build new founding patterns and a new adapter. It was the only way to get this clocking to work.

If you were interested, we could price out a discount adapter on its own. You may have to shorten your output shaft by a small amount, but it is feasable to this and get the upgraded system with little more headache than some install time.

These clocking rings have two drawbacks that I know of. None I have seen yet provide a true centering register. They rely on the fastening hardware, which can get one as far as .050" off. As with this one, 3/8" is as tall as the factory bearing retainer that indexes the assembly to center. I don't know how they can shoulder that once this ring is installed.

Secondly, it is probably not a huge issue, but it does take the splines out of their optimum engagement to shorten by 3/8". For strong trannies like this, we need nearly all the spline depth available in a 300 input shaft to get the union at the full strength as allowed by the diameter of the shaft.

So, that is our take on it. We offer a clocking ring, but the philosophy behind it is a bit different and definitely designed for the long-haul.


TIA.

I use the GLO one and have had no issues with it. It is stout, and seems well made. I highly doubt that the 3/8" of spline engagement lost is a huge problem. I also had no problems with the centering issue they speak of.

i had one of these same rings for my np208, it never once sealed up always leaked like a bitch

The leak you speak of can be taken care of with an inexpensive Chicago Rawhide Speedi Sleeve PN 99193, with that stated 9 times out of 10 you do not need this. Thanks Shawn

84, I have a T18 w/ Novak adp to D300 also, mine is the newer style.

I'm not sure of the cast gusset locations on the old adptr but for the coin they charge, I'd drop the T18 & 300 to the shop floor and unbolt the two.

Remove the two studs from the 300 and make ya a template of the back of the adp with bolt holes and all. Play with that template rotating it on the back of the adptr and you might be surprised to find you can redrill it to catch at least 5 of the 6 holes.

I like young thin cardboard like priority mail / UPS shipping envelopes.

Report back, let us know what you find.

84, I have a T18 w/ Novak adp to D300 also, mine is the newer style.

I'm not sure of the cast gusset locations on the old adptr but for the coin they charge, I'd drop the T18 & 300 to the shop floor and unbolt the two.

Remove the two studs from the 300 and make ya a template of the back of the adp with bolt holes and all. Play with that template rotating it on the back of the adptr and you might be surprised to find you can redrill it to catch at least 5 of the 6 holes.

I like young thin cardboard like priority mail / UPS shipping envelopes.

Report back, let us know what you find.

And with that, I believe you also need to sheer off one of the D300 pivot ears depending on how high you clock the 300. The T18 is a big tranny and the 300 wont clock flat without the removal of the inner ear.

And with that, I believe you also need to sheer off one of the D300 pivot ears depending on how high you clock the 300. The T18 is a big tranny and the 300 wont clock flat without the removal of the inner ear.

I can verify that I had to do this if my understanding is that we are talking about the two ears that hold the shifter(s) of the Dana 300 in place. It's been a while ago but I remember specifically have to cut something off the alumuminum bracket in order to clock my Dana 300 flat. I had zero issues with it afterwards, so whatever needs to be cut, don't be afraid to cut it.

I can verify that I had to do this if my understanding is that we are talking about the two ears that hold the shifter(s) of the Dana 300 in place. It's been a while ago but I remember specifically have to cut something off the alumuminum bracket in order to clock my Dana 300 flat. I had zero issues with it afterwards, so whatever needs to be cut, don't be afraid to cut it.

Yep. Three ears actually...Removal of it doesn't seem to compromise the strength.

And with that, I believe you also need to sheer off one of the D300 pivot ears depending on how high you clock the 300. The T18 is a big tranny and the 300 wont clock flat without the removal of the inner ear.

Exactly, forgot about that fact

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p261/Fatman_CJ7/SBC350/DSC02317.jpg