OK, this is a bump induced problem and it's not a little shimmy this is shake the whole rig hard. This is a Dan 60 front in a Jeep with leaf springs, a high steering setup and 44 TSL's. Approx 1 year ago we put a high steering set up on and the connecting link was moved to the back side of the knuckle. I started having these problems so it was moved to the front side now. I have tried different tires/ shimmimg the front end to see if it got any worse or better/ even put a track bar in to see if that would calm thigs down. NOTHING has helped.

ANY SUGGESTIONS????

I was going to post about the same thing but you beat me to it.
I have a HP 60 with hysteer as well. tires are 39.5 boggers. Mine
goes into death wobble when I hit any little bump at low speeds.
Like 5 to15 mph. I have to slam on the brakes to stop it. My u bolts are tight and I have new bushings in all the springs. The
axles parts /steering is also all new stuff. My tie rod and drag link
are almost perfecty parallel. Even with the 37" MTR's it does the
same thing. Its really starting to piss me off! I think maybe when
I done the hydro assist it will act like a big steering stabalizer and
cure this BS. Like you I would love some input???

Yes I have thought about the hydro assist but I think if I put that on without figuring out why this is happing it could possibly break a lot of %&$#%@. And agreed this is a problem that can send a few tools flying.

the biggest threads I have seen on this are on CK5 (http://coloradok5.com/forums/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=blazer4x4).
there was some good info on hydraulic resonance being a possibility.
check it out it was like a polite P4x4 tech discussion over several threads

oh and try search, it works there too

I had the same prob when I went to D60 highsteer. Try replacing your steering arm bolts with studs and nuts, my bolts kept walking out causing play in the front end.
One more thing, make sure there is NO play in the trac bar. Have someone turn the steering wheel while you check for play, if there is any side-side slop in those bushings it could be your problem, at least when I fixed those problems on mine the "death shake" went away.

So I'd guess hanging a video camera under the rig or setting up a web cam to a laptop would give you some clues. Either you have some worn out parts or some parts are flexing in a way that they are not designed too! My shop truck (Jeep Commanche) started a death wobble at 75MPH the other day (first time) and I have not been able to duplicate it. Pavement was uneven is what started it.

Good luck,
Jason

Well this might not pertain to dana 60's but:
In my rover I had the same problem and it turned out to be swivel pin housing preload.
Which translates into adjustment of your kingpins.
I'm assuming there is some sort of preload adjustment for the kingpins? or if you have ball joints those may be worn?

other causes being;
alignment
wheel balance
worn TRE's; which could fall into the catagory of loose/flexing steering arms

make sure that knuckle bearings, and the plastic cone things are in good shape, Then put the caster at 2degrees or less.
I have never seen a kingpin 60 get the death wobbles with steep caster lke that, but it happens all the time with "stock" caster (like 6-8 deg)

make sure that knuckle bearings, and the plastic cone things are in good shape, Then put the caster at 2degrees or less.
I have never seen a kingpin 60 get the death wobbles with steep caster lke that, but it happens all the time with "stock" caster (like 6-8 deg)

that's the answer....

Weak springs and too much caster 9 out of 10 times.

see ya.

tony k

Are you saying weak ssprings in the king pins, I have even tried putting a shim in there for some more preload, or are you saying weak leaf springs? The leafs in mine are fairly soft considering the front end weight . If your thinking more so on the leafs, in theory a trac bar would help and I currently do not have one in. What is the best way to check caster? I have taken it to am alignment shop in the past and they did a sweep and told me how much they thought it needed shimmed, but curios if you can accuratly check it yourself.

I have the same issue with my Chevy 44 that is in my YJ.......caster is at 8.6*. The specs listed for the Chevy truck that had this axlecall for 8*.

I have tried everything except changing the caster (with shims)....I intend to try that soon.

The death wobble completely fawked my stabilizer recently.

Sorry, Dana 60 king pin springs, not leaf springs. If you had a ball joint 60 or 44 I'd say probably not the problem, but king pin 60 spring are a big problem.

set caster about 2 deg, change toe in to 3/16, make sure steering box is on center, wheel bearings are tight, and knuckle parts are fresh(plastic, springs, bearings, etc.)

tony k

I have a full width GM 60 in my YJ and have been fighting DW for a LONG time now. i have changed the caster. Checked every thing NUMEROUS times and still have a little DW. If i take my steering stabilzer off i can go over 10 mph before it gets nuts. I replaced the plastic spacers and resealed the king pins but did not replace the springs in the king pins. I am going Hydro Assist soon also.

Just cause a manual sez 8* means nuthin in an altered vehicle. I agree with 8* for stock tires.
As the tires get bigger your caster should decrease.
draw line down from center of tire, draw line through ball joints. Even imaginary angles for now. At ground level, the points get further apart as the tires get bigger. causes the tire to ride too far back on the (forget the term:rolleyes: )
more tire = less caster.

yaw angle or steering axis?

j

Well, I have added approx 1/4" of spacer to preload the spring more and this did make a difference. I actually tried this before but only shimmed 1/8" and they were new springs then so I couldn't see adding more. Any way it helped but not 100% gone. I struck a Mitoyo digital gage on the knuckle and determined it has 6 degrees of positive caster. I cut so 4 degree shims, and will be installing those to acheive a 2 degree positive caster, and also will install 2 new stabilizers. And hope this cures the problem. If not I think I might take the axles/ big block etc., out and lower it back down to stock height, put some cool hub caps and neon lights on it.

NEVER, that really isn't funny isn't even funny to joke about is it

do a test.
unhook the power steering v belt and see if it will still DW.
if it fixes the problem then the cause is a hydraulic resonance that needs to be damped with an accumulator/damper.
this was all covered in the CK5 discussions, check it out

I had the same problem and went through everything I could think of. Then I took off the knuckles and found that the ball joints would just spin around and were not good anymore. Replaced them and it helped.