: Pimp mah blunderbus
afroman006 12-02-2007, 09:20 PM Here we have the first gun I ever bought, a New England Firearms single shot 10 gauge :laughing: I "bought" it when I was 14. By bought I mean I handed my dad the $100 cash, he handed it to the seller at a gun show, and we walked away with my new scattergun which he nicknames "the blunderbus" (google it if you dont get it). Yes it was a straw purchase, fuck off. :flipoff2:
As you can see, its seen better days. I think the camo spray-paint finish was factory and its rubbed off of about half the barrel. Priority number 1 is to send it to Pete and have him thread it for changable choke tubes. It has a fixed full choke in it right now and while I have shot slugs out of it as-is, I'd like a little more versatility.
Priority number two is find some way to stick some sights on it. Some kind of ghost ring peep and post front would be perfect, but if you have any other kickass ideas, let me know. I took it to a pro gunsmith once and he told me the barrel was too thin to drill and tap for anything, but this aint no average scattergun. The damn thing weighs almost 8 pounds, and its a single shot! The barrel is STOUT. What about soldering something on? Is that way ghetto or would it be sturdy enough to maintain "zero" with the punishment of 2 1/4 oz. turkey loads and 766 grain slugs?
Finalls, its gonna get refinished. This thing is basically worth next to nothing so the floor is open on pattern ideas. I will probably use it for hunting again sometime in the future so some conventional camo colors would be prefered but as far as patterns go, throw some ideas at me.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/blunderbus2.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/blunderbus.jpg
usmcdoc14 12-02-2007, 09:33 PM brownells sells base mounts and tube fronts for a ghostring setup silver solder should NOT move. TIG weld will definatly not move either :laughing:
TIG a rail steel rail that is low profile with a radius to match the barrel front and rear, then use AR sights :flipoff2:
Munchies 12-02-2007, 11:29 PM Some coped pic. rail and some welding, and some $ for a red dot, and your almost pimped out. Nice paint job with some duracoat.... pimped
muddawg95yj 12-03-2007, 04:05 AM That was your first? If you shot that thing at 14, its a wonder you ever wanted another firearm:eek:
Scott@Rockstomper 12-03-2007, 06:34 AM TIG a rail steel rail that is low profile with a radius to match the barrel front and rear, then use AR sights :flipoff2:
On Dave's .22-250 pistol, we milled out a square-bottom groove instead of trying to radius it to match the barrel. Logic was that two lines of contact, while not necessarily as secure, would be less likely to rock, than a radius worth, particularly if the depth or radius was a little off.
Milling a straight slot was also a whole lot easier than trying to mill a radius. :laughing:
NVScouter 12-03-2007, 06:50 AM All I could think of was Uncle Fester with his Blunderbuss :D
I agree weld a rail on the top and do an aimpoint or somthing.
DavidVanVorous 12-03-2007, 08:50 AM There soldering then theres silver soldering with a silver braze like BAg7 (AWS class #)
Takes a fine hand with the torch but more durable than typical lead tin or tin silver alloys. The solder approach is used to build shot guns (double at the rib and sight attachment) all the time. In fact the sight on my 7x57 is done that way to avoid the drill-tap thing... ;)
D.
afroman006 12-03-2007, 09:21 AM Would welding ruin the temper of the barrel? While milling a flat for some of scott's stell picanty sounds like a good idea, I dont know if there's quite enough material to be able to do that. I would have to find someone to do the TIGing for me anyway. Tell me more about silver soldering. What kinda heat source does one use? Where might I find this silver solder? I'll take a look in Brownells tonight and look at their scattergun sights. Thanks for the input.
DavidVanVorous 12-03-2007, 09:42 AM Would welding ruin the temper of the barrel? While milling a flat for some of scott's stell picanty sounds like a good idea, I dont know if there's quite enough material to be able to do that. I would have to find someone to do the TIGing for me anyway. Tell me more about silver soldering. What kinda heat source does one use? Where might I find this silver solder? I'll take a look in Brownells tonight and look at their scattergun sights. Thanks for the input.
1. What temper? Unless one goes through the rigamaroll of cryo treating, a barrel is machined and straightened cold from billet or tube in the case of shot barrels. Now it might soften a tad iffen one is cavalier with the torch but as a rule they dont when done properly... ;)
2. Milling is good iffen you know a good smith-machinist. Thats the most accurate way to attach the rear sights (if needed). Ive run into fronts that were run into the barrel but those were typically choked after to remove the stub of the sight, my M97 Winchester is built that way.
3. Given what appears to be a newbie gunsmith, Id think hard about having a smith do the sight work. The sight needs to be centered properly and held in place during a soldering operation.
Iffen you really want to do it any weld shop carries silver solder I mentioned and proper flux. This requires oxy-ac torch to get the temp up to the correct level in the zone. The other solder is nothing more than the *std* plumbing tin-silver and acid flux available at a hardware store. That can be done with nothing more than a propane torch iffen yer good or an oxy-ac torch. Leastwise thats the way *I* do it...
D.
Azzy2000 12-03-2007, 09:51 AM Would welding ruin the temper of the barrel? While milling a flat for some of scott's stell picanty sounds like a good idea, I dont know if there's quite enough material to be able to do that. I would have to find someone to do the TIGing for me anyway. Tell me more about silver soldering. What kinda heat source does one use? Where might I find this silver solder? I'll take a look in Brownells tonight and look at their scattergun sights. Thanks for the input.
I doubt there is enough material to mill a flat. If you need it TIG welded, I can help you out. I'm in Spring, not too far from you.
You could always use a couple hose clamps to hold that rail on there :laughing: :grinpimp:
usmcdoc14 12-03-2007, 10:02 AM TIG would put a LOT less heat in the barrel than silver soldering
afroman006 12-03-2007, 10:13 AM I doubt there is enough material to mill a flat. If you need it TIG welded, I can help you out. I'm in Spring, not too far from you.
You could always use a couple hose clamps to hold that rail on there :laughing: :grinpimp:
Hose clamps would look right at home on a gun like this :laughing: I could deffinately make a trip to spring for such an occasion, what kind of compensation would you want for your work? Now I need to figure out how to have a radius cut into my picanty :smokin:
Azzy2000 12-03-2007, 10:31 AM Hose clamps would look right at home on a gun like this :laughing: I could deffinately make a trip to spring for such an occasion, what kind of compensation would you want for your work? Now I need to figure out how to have a radius cut into my picanty :smokin:
Cant help ya with the radius, but any machine shop should be able to knock that out pretty quick. As far as the welding goes, a 6 pack of bud should suffice :D
Kilborg 12-03-2007, 03:29 PM I love old break action scatterguns...the first and only gun i shot for many years was a stevens .410 which was my fathers first gun as well...to this day i can flawlessly commit skeet genocid along with the occasionaly partridge hunt.
These guys have the ideas for your sights...As for the stock...you planning on giving this one another chance or simply getting/making something else? The camo kinda looks like a PO's work...Iv had a few camo jobs come out pretty similar. Maybe you can just take it down to wood and put a nice coat of stain or whatever you would prefer.
afroman006 12-03-2007, 04:31 PM I was just planning on sanding it and repainting something gaudy:D As far as I know no one makes aftermarket shit for NEF guns :laughing:
Numidian 12-03-2007, 04:45 PM I think sending it to Pete for a digital camo job might be the ticket... Plus you could probably get some ARFCOM and Sig Forum guys to commit suicide by posting pics :laughing:
toymoto 12-03-2007, 04:49 PM One of these may fit yours. NEF and H&R are one the same now so some of their stuff may interchange. If you're ever in Huntsville let me know and we may compare the fit to my H&R.
Check out the AR15 style stock and forend:laughing:
nooblet 12-03-2007, 04:50 PM Ahhh.... it brings back memories of our high school days of shooting trap with high brass loads out of that thing. Believe it or not I still have that slug we shot into the berm then dug out :smokin:
I almost hate to see it get prettied up!
I said almost :flipoff2:
BumpyDodge 12-03-2007, 07:53 PM The hard part about your shotgun is that you can't really receiver mount a rear sight because it's a single shot. Anything receiver side-mounted wouldn't allow the action to break open. There's only 1/2" of receiver exposed on top - not much to work with.
I'd copy this (http://www.hr1871.com/Firearms/Shotguns/ultraSlug.aspx) setup and use a red dot. You've got enough barrel thickness to screw mount that rail, it just takes a good gunsmith to do it.
I wouldn't sink too much money into that project unless you're really sentimentally attached to it. The H&R 12 gauge slug hunter only costs around $200 brand new and that's with the weaver rail installed and ready to go. You could easily spend half that buying ghost ring sights for yours and adapting them to fit.
Do you load your own? I know 10 ga. slugs aint cheap. Most people use 10 ga. shells for goose not deer, so usually steel shot is all you can find "off the shelf". You don't need much in the way of sights to shoot geese.
afroman006 12-03-2007, 10:05 PM This is a toy and will be used as such. I have an asortment of "normal" 3 1/2" 12 gauges to use for serious hunting business. I know I can get this exact same gun brand new from NEF but drilled and tapped for a scope and with changable chokes for $200. The way I see it, my initial purchase price doesnt count cause it was so long ago, and I already have the steel rail to weld to it. $50 to have Pete tap it for chokes, and Azzy's 18 pack of Bud (I'll drink it with you :flipoff2:) should come in at well less than $200. Oh and throw paint in there somewhere too but I would do that to a new one anyway :D
Azzy2000 12-03-2007, 10:22 PM Azzy's 18 pack of Bud (I'll drink it with you :flipoff2:)
That'll work :D
Just let me know when you're ready to do it. I'll be around until Monday the 10th, then I'll be offshore until the 26th.
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