so guys, i am starting with no suspension on my new truck, and i want to run leafs for simplicity. looking around on the web, i see a ton of pics of kick ass jeeps and yotas with fawkin ridiculous amounts of flex from leafs... what are the tricks? i want to stay away from revolver type shacles and buggy leafs for road manners. the truck will have around a 95" WB and should weigh around 4200 lbs (estimate), if any of that helps.

thanks

The trick is to run buggy leafs and or Revolvers <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
I didn't pick up any ill effects on road from putting on buggy leafs and I ran them front an rear for years. One other thing to do is run the longest springs you can.

[ 10-25-2001: Message edited by: 66CJdean ]

"I didn't pick up any ill effects on road from putting on buggy leafs and I ran them front an rear for years. One other thing to do is run the longest springs you can."

i figure that the longest spring i can run is around 52", maybe 53". 52 would be handy since i could run the leafs off of a GM truck. i really want to stay away from these things though cause there is a fair amount of off camber here in NE and i dont want to unload the uphill side suspension all of a suddent and throw the truck down a mountain side with me in it (without me in it is ok
<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> )

[ 10-25-2001: Message edited by: Junk Collector ]

Two small things you can do to get a little extra flex, are to open up the spring clamps, and put teflon strips between the leaves. Allows the springs to open up, and lowers the friction between the leaves

Make sure your shackles aren't limiting the springs. The more of an angle the shackle is at when the spring is perfectly flat, the more droop you may have. You want to leave some angle so you don't invert the shackles. Make sure the shackles are long enough that the spring can move throughout its full range of motion wihtout inverting the shackles in either direction.

Open up the spring clamps. Get the longest shocks you can (Usually 14" stroke).

coat the leaves with graphite paint.
http://www.vansicklepaint.com/miscprod.htm

thanks, any other tips? supposing i use 52" GM springs, how many leafs should i pull from them? (95" WB, approx 4200lbs)

Originally posted by Rebel:
<STRONG>coat the leaves with graphite paint.
http://www.vansicklepaint.com/miscprod.htm</STRONG>

I was wondering where to get this stuff and see there based out of nebraska!!!! I've been loking for this crap forever

top

Use thin leaves and teflon, (just like national and skyjacker softride)
Use long, flat arch srings.
Use shackles that don't have a cross between them so that they can move and flex independently.
Use Rubber bushings, they flex more than poly.
Don't tighten your shackle bolts too tight so they can flex. (that doesn't mean to leave them loose)
Use a center type torque arm. Not one on each side.

http://www.sv.com.au/jeep/images/TTC2001x/images/9_jpg_jpg.jpg

look very closely, it is the old invisible spring trick. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

well that is one way to get flex....

sorry but id rather NOT kill myself on my way to school on the highway... <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by 66CJdean:
<STRONG>The trick is to run buggy leafs and or Revolvers <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">
I didn't pick up any ill effects on road from putting on buggy leafs and I ran them front an rear for years. One other thing to do is run the longest springs you can.

[ 10-25-2001: Message edited by: 66CJdean ]</STRONG>

you ran buggies on the front? Ive never seen that done, im guessing your shackles are at the front? otherwise your pinion angle would be jacked when it drooped, can i see some pics?

Keep everything greased, shackles, steering ect.

I grease the teflon pads and it really makes 'em move good!!

I get good flex from my leaf springs....about a 1200 RTI on a 23 degree. I've got a 9 leaf spring pack in front and an 8 leaf in rear....LOTS of thin leaves, full military wraps, tapered leaf ends, poly bushings, nylock shackles to keep them slightly loose, springs are graphite painted. Shackles are at a 45 degree when the truck is at rest, springs are nearly flat. I run 14" stroke DT's in front and use all of them. No buggies or double shackles.

The key is the multiple thin leaves...and most pickup springs are too thick and stiff. Aftermarket is really your easiest option, either Alcan or National.

And keep standard length perches.
Jay

Originally posted by Junk Collector:
<STRONG>thanks, any other tips?</STRONG>

I can't seem to find any of the pictures, but an alternative to buggies or revolvers/hinged shackes would be to go with a drop arm.

I saw a few that were nice where the rear shackle mounted up to an arm which hinged off the frame similar to a buggy leaf. The main difference is that you can setup a pin system to lock it down for on-road driving.

Originally posted by M. Martian:
<STRONG>I can't seem to find any of the pictures, but an alternative to buggies or revolvers/hinged shackes would be to go with a drop arm.

I saw a few that were nice where the rear shackle mounted up to an arm which hinged off the frame similar to a buggy leaf. The main difference is that you can setup a pin system to lock it down for on-road driving.</STRONG>

http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/dropbardesign1.JPG

you might do a nice thing to your spring packs and relieve some of the extreme tension that is created if your axle is twisted up...

here's a pic of a SWEEEET shackle... (forget for a moment that its on a 1/4e)...

http://www.spidertrax.com/suspension_qe4.jpg
http://www.spidertrax.com/suspension_qe5.jpg

http://www.spidertrax.com/suspension_qe3.jpg


pretty self-explanatory

alfred

Ya use the spidertrax stuff it will only run ya a G for the rear. And for the front your out of luck. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by fatkid:
<STRONG>Ya use the spidertrax stuff it will only run ya a G for the rear. And for the front your out of luck. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

i posted the pics just for the SHACKLE !!!!

you can run a shackle like this on any leaf-sprung vehicle...

it is a similar setups like the orbit eye, and they squeezed out 4" of additional articulation just relieving the bind within the spring pack (on the same truck, a before-after test)

should not cost more than 60-100 bucks a pair

alfred

or you could build a spring perch that pivits and releaves the bind that way ive seen this on many many riges works very well

tou can also run tension mounted shackles like on a EB or some full size chevy's, they allow a greater amount of down travel, due to the fact that as the spring extends it's mounting point is also traveling downward.

Originally posted by CrazyHorse:
<STRONG>tou can also run tension mounted shackles like on a EB or some full size chevy's, they allow a greater amount of down travel, due to the fact that as the spring extends it's mounting point is also traveling downward.</STRONG>

You get more up travel with a compression style. The down travel is really about the same. The tension style limits upward travel bucase your pulling at an angle to the shackle. My truck with the same springs and weight with the stock set up ramped abot 650 on a 25deg ramp. Doing the shackle flip and removing the blocks I ramp 752 before the front springs were broken in. That's with the SAME spring I gained 100 points by changing the shackle set up. I'll hit well over 900 when I relocat the shocks on the front.
When your shopping for Chevy spring loof for after 85. GM went to a softer spring and also added some teflon pads at the ends of the spring to help make the truck ride better. A K5 rear spring is one of the better ones to look for. it had the lowest spring rate.
Check out Marv Springers page. He has some interesting set ups you might get some ideas from.


Marv's page (http://www.users.qwest.net/~ruthspear/)

I guess ford just got it better designed on the EB than gm did then, cause on an EB there's no room for more uptravel, I don't have bumpstops, and regularly compress the springs till the axle is touching the frame on the compressed side, while I max a 9012 rancho on the extension, and have to limit the axle to keep the shock destruction down. My EB is ramping 1580 on a 20 degree and right about 1000 on a 30 degree with stock rear springs with add a leafs, and a wristed radius arm on the front with wild horses 3.5 coils.

You can also put the Johnny Joints in one end of the spring to relieve main leaf twist.

Try Plastic Sales Southern for the antifriction liners. I can't remember the website. Just do a search.

Holy thread revival batman!:eek: You do realise that the last reply to this thread was over a year and a half ago dont ya?


At least it proves yer searchin:flipoff2:

If you look in the rocker section there's some hints, but they include revolvers and a pivoting spring mount.

Personally I'd go with orbiteye'd alcans. Something with THIN leaves, you can always remove some if they're too heavy. Shackle angle is very important when you're designing your suspension as well.

Graphite based paints can be found at your local Case or JD dealer, they sell Slip-plate.

http://www.slipplate.com/

Hey GreenPig - this threads 1.5 years old. This guy has bought, rolled, and sold a rig or two since asking this question. ;)

So I'm a dumbass. :rolleyes:

I'm glad this one poped up, saved me having to search for it, and until the second post of the new ones, I did not know it was old.