I recently swapped a D30 from a 99 WJ(It was free), and re;ocated my trac bar. When i went and test drove it, the bump steer was worse than before.:confused:
Maybe Flipping the drag link?
When i lifted it in the air, the axle stayed center, so I;m a little confused.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/Anthony_L/Jeeps/12-01008.jpg
(in the air)
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/Anthony_L/Jeeps/12-01005.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/Anthony_L/Jeeps/12-01006.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/Anthony_L/Jeeps/Axle008.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/Anthony_L/Jeeps/Axle007.jpg

I'd say your axle mount is too high. Move the bolt hole down a couple of inches so it is right behind the draglink and see what happens.
Travis..

You are kidding right. Make your tie rod pivots and bushing pivots parallel.

You are kidding right. Make your tie rod pivots and bushing pivots parallel.

X2, Almost looks like you could move the axle end of the track bar all the way down to the axle, and be pretty damn close to having it parallel with the DL. That upper mount looks like it hangs down low enough for that to work.

If you draw a line from the upper mount bolt, down to where the stock TB mounted it looks to be parallel with the DL. Hell I just held a straight piece of paper up to the screen on one of your last pics and could see it.

check your castor angle also the drag link seems to be at quite an angle.Now that I think about it on my grand cherokee I had bad bumpsteer stock, I replaced the steering stabilizer and fixed it.Also I had bad steering wander(I thought was bumpsteer) on some custom stuff and had to turn the tie rods so that they bind ,sometimes ....when the vehicle is parked have a buddy turn the wheel and watch the tie rod sometimes it will actually move in a twisting motion (most do stock)also maybe raise the panhard bar more level.Hope any of this helps ,probley not though ......I have been drinking.

You are kidding right. Make your tie rod pivots and bushing pivots parallel.

i thought i read that its better to have it level, thats wha i did it that high(and posted in non-hardcore:D)

won't flipping the drag link help a lot too?

Flip the tie rod ends on all 3 points of the knuckles...
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/linakge32.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/steeriong2.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/steering6.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/steering7.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/steering3.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/knuckle2.jpg

i thought i read that its better to have it level, thats wha i did it that high(and posted in non-hardcore:D)

won't flipping the drag link help a lot too?

That only works if you have a level (flat) tie rod. The tie rod and track bar (panhard, etc) need to travel in the same arc. there should be no motion of the tie rod when cycling the suspension. Generally this will make them parallel or close to it.

Don't worry, many Jeep lift kit companies don't understand this either.

I have no bump steer at all.

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc313/fa_ranger/PB120027.jpg

I have no bump steer at all.

And you also don't have WJ steering...:smokin:

I have no bump steer at all.

Your DR and TB as also parallel, unlike the OP.

That only works if you have a level (flat) tie rod. The tie rod and track bar (panhard, etc) need to travel in the same arc. there should be no motion of the tie rod when cycling the suspension. Generally this will make them parallel or close to it.

Don't worry, many Jeep lift kit companies don't understand this either.

you mean the link that goes from the pitman arm to the knuckle right? Won't that move no matter what? Or do you mean the distance between the TR and the trac bar shouldnt change?

this thread is fawked up:shaking:

DRAG LINK
TIE ROD
TRACK BAR

get your terminology straight first:shaking:


your drag link is at an extreme angle. "flipping it" you mean putting in on the top side of pitman arm and knuckle? you would have to ream/taper both pitman arm and knuckle to do this and i doubt it will work on the pitman arm (clearance?). i would leave it where it is.

as mentioned, try and keep the track bar and drag link parallel. you need to lower the track bar at the axle end (passenger side). this should be pretty easy to do by just drilling a new hole through the bracket and well, you are gonna have to re-splice the track bar to make it longer (that will not be as easy). you MAY be able to hammer-out the bends in the track bar to get it long enough. try that first.

Thats why I posted the Photo. :) Its a good Photo of the 2 bars having the same angle.

"flipping it" you mean putting in on the top side of pitman arm and knuckle? you would have to ream/taper both pitman arm and knuckle to do this and i doubt it will work on the pitman arm (clearance?).

It would help if done at the knuckle only...

It would help if done at the knuckle only...

yes it would but prolly easier to just lower the track bar.

Doesnt seem so hard to me

and the DL Goes from Pitman to knuckle
Tie rod=Knuckle to knuckle
Right?

Hell I would think a drop pitman arm of 4 " would fix his problem.

Doesnt seem so hard to me

and the DL Goes from Pitman to knuckle
Tie rod=Knuckle to knuckle
Right?

Who are you asking?...

Hell I would think a drop pitman arm of 4 " would fix his problem.

That would put more stress on his already weak steering box mount...IMO

Hell I would think a drop pitman arm of 4 " would fix his problem.


Hell, I would think that a drop pitman arm of 4" should always be done as a last resort, and he has an easy fix just by adjusting his drag link.

To each his own, tho.

Doesnt seem so hard to me

and the DL Goes from Pitman to knuckle
Tie rod=Knuckle to knuckle
Right?

Correct.

I think the angle is ridiculous too.

I would crossbrace the steering box and fix the mounts if necessary, put in a drop pitman (probably 2 1/2", but I think that 2 1/2" is stock on a WJ, so maybe 4"), put the drag link on top of the knuckle end only (stay on the bottom of the pitman arm), and then re-build the trackbar and mounts to make them strong and paralell.

Personally, I wouldn't repair the trackbar. I might use the old ends to make a new one if the ends are in good shape.