put it in yesterday, and took it out for a little test wheel this evening. steerings not too bad, but traction is great. mine ended up with about 3/8 turn before it locks. man, its great to have both front tires finally turning, oh yeah, found a weak u joint on the front d-shaft too, blew all 4 ears off at once!!
:smokin:

Fozzy locker? Is that your term for when you fill in teeth on opposite side gears, so it can move a *little*?

Ya illaberate "Fozzy" sounds like a guy from the muppets what did you really do?

he shoved the muppet guy b/t his spider gears :flipoff2:

I found some info searching (all of PBB)

Originally posted by Shrock
he shoved the muppet guy b/t his spider gears :flipoff2:

I found some info searching (all of PBB)

Dam :eek: I cant find any muppets at 11:30 at night how about beenie babies my kids have plenty of those will they work???:D

But sereously did you take any pics of it

"Fozzy" Is a guy in our club, Wayne Foster, He started welding the spiders to allow some play a long time ago. Alot of his welded gears are still in action today and I know one guy in our club has driven his Toy with dual Fozzy's to the Rubicon and to Moab in the last two years! Crazy fool!

They work damn well if you can't spend the money for a real locker.

So give us the lowdown on how its done! Pics and a full tech report.

:beer: :flipoff2: :beer:

Originally posted by Shrock
he shoved the muppet guy b/t his spider gears :flipoff2:

I found some info searching (all of PBB)
So you gonna share with rest of class or gonna make us do all the work??? :flipoff2:

Lazy fawks!!! :flipoff2:

You have to read though various opinions to find the fozzy locker info in these threads but it is there.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37864&highlight=fozzy

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2136&highlight=fozzy

For the super-sloths, this is the general idea:

------------------------------

Originally posted by elf_cruiser
I don't think welding the spider gears to the side gears is the way to go at all. I would suggest filling in the voids btwn two teeth on the spider gears. Fill in 2 voids opposite each other on each gear. Then assemble the carrier so that these welds all hit the side gear teeth at the same time. This way, there is a little play for driving on the street, and you don't depend on the strength of the weld, you rely on the strength of the carrier. I saw a cruiser done this way, and he broke his pinion off, not the carrier.
Originally posted by TLCObsession


Elf is right on. This is the way that Wayne 'Fozzy' Foster does it. This setup is run on tons of Toy diffs up in Canada. It works great, and even allows just a bit of play - nice on the street.

-----------------------------------------

http://www.coloradok5.com/14boltweld/spidermain.jpg

http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/222222ll.jpg

:flipoff2:

I just have limited amounts of "search" time while I'm at work.

But I agree, I shoulda spent some time looking.


Sloth

a.k.a.

Hank

I've never welded a diff, but I must say that from a theoretical standpoint, this looks pretty cool.

Has anyone thought about what happens if you break a chunk of spider gear off? If the gear is just binding against the glob of weld, wouldn't you run a risk of breaking off a chunk?

If that chunk migrates into the ring gear....:nuke:

do yoiu think welding the front like that is going to put more strees on the axles more prone to break or judt diff failure still undecided on swapin the locker to the front or just weldin it up I have the birfield rings and only really need it to hold for the melt whats the general consences

My front has been welded solid for close to 2 years now, the past couple months with my 1600 too.
But I run 31's though.:D

ok, i welded 2 teeth shut 180 degrees apart. they hit at the same time. i didnt get any pics, but its super easy. so far, so good, im attending 2 jamborees the next 2 weekends in a row, so ill give a report afterwards.

i have seen two diferent sami diffs :nuke: :nuke: when welded like that. the whole spider/side gear broke from the shock loading. they did last a while but the repeated shock load finally took it's toll.

Originally posted by high5
i have seen two diferent sami diffs :nuke: :nuke: when welded like that. the whole spider/side gear broke from the shock loading. they did last a while but the repeated shock load finally took it's toll.

Thats my concern...the shock load when welded this way would be higher then a solidly welded diff

Originally posted by Mitsuzu


Thats my concern...the shock load when welded this way would be higher then a solidly welded diff


(Edited to be clearer)

I´m welded this way in the rear, but I did the side gears instead of the planetaries... If I do say so myself, my welds look a lot better than those in the pics here. Going nice and slow and cleaning the slag after every pass, I filled the teeth all the way up to the top and then belt sanded off the excess to leave a smooth, consistent surface even with the outside contour of the SIDE gear.. There´s no way that any weld chuck is gonna fall out. Maybe break a tooth on a planetary or explode the carrier, but the SIDE won´t fail...:)

Now, as far a shock loads, I haven´t seen, or more importantly felt or heard anything at all. The relative speed between the half shafts is low enough that it seems like the gears just kinda "click" into each other, rather than slam...

It could be argued that on rocks, you might have more slamming going on. I could envision a case where the diff was "all the way" to one side of the free play and then you lifted a tire and gunned the throttle, causing the diff to turn rapidly to the other side. There would likely be a good slam. But in the mud, everything tends to be dampened, so I haven´t had nor expect to have any problems.

Different strokes......:p

:beer: :beer:

I would have to agree with BillJ. I think that welding the side gears is the stronger way of welding a diff. I always used a wire feed ( I think it's cleaner ) and filled the teeth fully and then ground them down so that the spider gear came into contact evenly across the weld ( no one point of pressure ). I have taken some apart that I welded years ago and no chunks of anything have broken off. Just need to do nice welds. Someone mentioned that Sami ones are breaking. I think that the Sami diff parts are a bit too small for this. On Toyota diffs though it seems to work great. My own preferance is Detroits though.

Originally posted by Fozzy
My own preferance is Detroits though.
AMEN! Search around the house, look under the seat cushions, check under your wifes front seats, sell your spare parts and BUY A LOCKER! 172.00 at RRO

:usa: :beret: