Your pics really suck.

I have seen that on the Tapco prebent flats, as the rails end up too high. Sloppy bends or tolerance stacking could result in rounds that wont strip from the mag.

hey I said in my post the pics sucked :laughing:

No gap between the mag catch and receiver, just a shitty pic.

There is no center support, somehow I missed that step and I'm not even sure if I have one to put in there. If I need one I can probably figure it out though.

The ejector is bent up a little, so I'm gonna beat on that a little bit. Glad you mentioned it.

It might be a tapco flat, I don't remember. But I think I'm gonna beat the ejector down some, and also the bottom of the receiver. It looks a little rounded so those two things are probly what's doing it.

I had some issues with my AK bolt riding up over the round sin the mag instead of stripping them.
Ibent rails, and adjusted the mag catch to raise the mag up and all the shit you're about to do.
Turned out that my Tapco G2 FCG hammer was about 1/4" thicker than the original ROmy hammer. I took the dremel to it, reprofiled i to match the romy hammer and it's not had a malfunction since. the extra hammer height was pushing the bolt up and over the rounds.
Just something else to check out.

Also, I saw a post about chamfering the chamber lip a bit. Mine wouldn't feed JHP's 100% either. I took the polishing stone to the lower edge of the chamber and ust rounded it over a touch. Works 100% now with wolf JHP. Just make sure you don't go too far in. I went into mine about the depth of the extraction groove in the shell casing base.

hey I said in my post the pics sucked :laughing:

No gap between the mag catch and receiver, just a shitty pic.

There is no center support, somehow I missed that step and I'm not even sure if I have one to put in there. If I need one I can probably figure it out though.

The ejector is bent up a little, so I'm gonna beat on that a little bit. Glad you mentioned it.

It might be a tapco flat, I don't remember. But I think I'm gonna beat the ejector down some, and also the bottom of the receiver. It looks a little rounded so those two things are probly what's doing it.

You can use a 1/4" bolt shank to weld in for a center support. You can also build up the mag catch lip (a little) to raise the mag. Between those two things, and adjusting your ejector, I'd be suprised if that didn't fix your issues.

I took that pile to the range today, did a little better. FMJs would cycle almost every time, but sometimes the hammer didn't get set. I found a broken weld though, so I have to fix that before I go too far. And put in a center support. Thanks for the help guys.

AK guru's, I need help.
My latest ak cycles like butter and shoots well, except it has a stovepiping issue. It is a milled yugo. It will stovepipe randomly, but a couple times per magazine. Do I need to reshape the ejector or???

yep, looks like the ejector is throwing the shell to far forward too fast...I see the ejector hit on the rim...

WHere is your barrel pin?

Make sure the gas port/ shutoff is fully open (not clogged) causing short strokes.

yep, looks like the ejector is throwing the shell to far forward too fast...I see the ejector hit on the rim...

um, ok. Now how do I fix it? :grinpimp:

WHere is your barrel pin?

Make sure the gas port/ shutoff is fully open (not clogged) causing short strokes.

Barrel pin is wherever it was when it left the factory, all I did was weld this thing back together!
I dont think it's shortstroking because it feeds a round every time. This kit was pretty dirty before I built it so I cleaned it really well, but I willl recheck the gas shutoff.
Any other ideas?

ETA: gas port is clean

You didnt mention reweld...are you sure your ejector is in the correct spot?

Take a pic of the ejector profile from the top. Did I see that one?

Take a pic of the ejector profile from the top. Did I see that one?

pic coming, but it looks like the ones included with ak builder flats and nodak receivers- I copied those.

You didnt mention reweld...are you sure your ejector is in the correct spot?


The ejector is 2 1/4" from the chamber face, others I had on hand to measure vary but may be closer to 2 5/16" to chamber face, got a measurement?

The one on the left is the problematic one, the other is a nds3

Anyone heard of Citizens Armory out of Mexico City MO?

Picked up one of their receivers with the rails already welded/riveted in and the back precut for an AMD-65 for $60 bucks at the gun show today.

Figured for that price it would save me the trouble of heat treating, putting the rails in and cutting the one I bent up a while ago and just haven't got around to finishing.

Lessons learned... Double check that your taps actually are the thread that they are labeled as.

Anyone see the problem with either of these 10-32 taps. :rolleyes:

My dumbass didn't even notice until I had a little trouble getting the screws in the front trunnion to go in.

So get some 10-24 screws

So get some 10-24 screws

That's the plan. Just a little annoying as I had everything ready to slap it together tonight and I assumed that the tap that was labeled as 10-32 would actually be 10-32. Damn Fastenal :laughing:

Maybe I'll go ahead and do the bolt and safety wire build I was thinking about.

Use the 10-32 screws in the 10-24 trunnions. Like loctite, they'll stay put.

Hypothetically speaking say someone had a weld build that happened to have a rear trunnion welded in at an angle and it's enough that a side folder stock won't fit in the end, nor will a regular wooden stock with out some serious sanding or the use of a sledge hammer, AND the return spring for the BCG won't slide into place without picking up on the center of the spring in order to angle it downward towards the rear, AND it also caused the left lug on the bolt to ride up and out of the rails and makes it catch locking the gun up like a virgin on prom night and causes one to want to sling whole contraption out their window. How does one address such a situation? Hypothetically speaking of course.

Sounds like I helped you build that gun.... Hypothetically speaking of course...

un weld it and start over of course

Hypothetically speaking say someone had a weld build that happened to have a rear trunnion welded in at an angle and it's enough that a side folder stock won't fit in the end, nor will a regular wooden stock with out some serious sanding or the use of a sledge hammer, AND the return spring for the BCG won't slide into place without picking up on the center of the spring in order to angle it downward towards the rear, AND it also caused the left lug on the bolt to ride up and out of the rails and makes it catch locking the gun up like a virgin on prom night and causes one to want to sling whole contraption out their window. How does one address such a situation? Hypothetically speaking of course.

Bend the rod part of the recoil spring retainer so it is in alignment with the bolt carrier, then grind, cut, force your stock on.

Your issue with the bolt catching the ejector or trunnion (you didnt specify) may be a result of your lower rails. Bend the recoil spring rod first, then recheck.

un weld it and start over of course

I used the last of my tube of "unweld" the other day. :(

Bend the rod part of the recoil spring retainer so it is in alignment with the bolt carrier, then grind, cut, force your stock on.

Your issue with the bolt catching the ejector or trunnion (you didnt specify) may be a result of your lower rails. Bend the recoil spring rod first, then recheck.

It's a flexible setup, bending it once does nothing to keep it that way. The lug hangs up on the top left rail when I did the cut outs for the lugs initially I left them square and it caught on that. I angled it a bit with a file but it still hung up. I didn't want to totally trash the rail if it could otherwise be salvaged.

I used the last of my tube of "unweld" the other day. :(



It's a flexible setup, bending it once does nothing to keep it that way. The lug hangs up on the top left rail when I did the cut outs for the lugs initially I left them square and it caught on that. I angled it a bit with a file but it still hung up. I didn't want to totally trash the rail if it could otherwise be salvaged.

I would cut off the existing receiver and rebuild it. Write it off as a learning experience. If it's not right, and it never runs properly, what's the point? I know it sucks (ask me how I know :laughing:), but unless you're building on a 100% receiver (transferrable), than it's one gun you'll have for a while and you'll want it to work.

Trust me, nothing worse than "YA! I built this!"........*bang* *bang* *bang* *clack*....."shit, hold on"....:homer:

I would cut off the existing receiver and rebuild it. Write it off as a learning experience. If it's not right, and it never runs properly, what's the point? I know it sucks (ask me how I know :laughing:), but unless you're building on a 100% receiver (transferrable), than it's one gun you'll have for a while and you'll want it to work.

Trust me, nothing worse than "YA! I built this!"........*bang* *bang* *bang* *clack*....."shit, hold on"....:homer:

That's what I'm leaning towards. What's the best way to demil it again since it's a weld build? I don't have a mill.

That's what I'm leaning towards. What's the best way to demil it again since it's a weld build? I don't have a mill.

I drilled the welds (careful on depth on front trunion near barrel) and followed it up with the angle grinder. As long as you don't hog out the entire trunions you'll be fine. You may actually be able to salvage your receiver if you're careful.

On the second go, just put one weld on each side of the trunions until everything fits (dust cover, recoil spring, stock, etc etc) then go back and finish weld it. I know, this sounds like common sense, but if you're like me you learn the hard way!!

Hypothetically speaking say someone had a weld build that happened to have a rear trunnion welded in at an angle and it's enough that a side folder stock won't fit in the end, nor will a regular wooden stock with out some serious sanding or the use of a sledge hammer, AND the return spring for the BCG won't slide into place without picking up on the center of the spring in order to angle it downward towards the rear, AND it also caused the left lug on the bolt to ride up and out of the rails and makes it catch locking the gun up like a virgin on prom night and causes one to want to sling whole contraption out their window. How does one address such a situation? Hypothetically speaking of course.

they bring it over my house this weekend

they bring it over my house this weekend

Will pencil it in. :flipoff2: I have a conference Saturday morning, but should be free after that. I'll give you a call. Thanks.

That's what I'm leaning towards. What's the best way to demil it again since it's a weld build? I don't have a mill.



I would chop the receiver in half through the magwell and pull the barrel. Then grind the outside of the receiver where the welds are, until it gets to the trunnion. Then peel away the scrap, and clean up the trunnion. You'll get a good idea of how well your welds penetrated.

If you can still see the original rivets, just drill them out. I've used an endmill in my drill press to cut through welds, which works pretty good.


Everything else would have to be demilled in a similar fashion.



And when you put it back together, use rivets :D

I would chop the receiver in half through the magwell and pull the barrel. Then grind the outside of the receiver where the welds are, until it gets to the trunnion. Then peel away the scrap, and clean up the trunnion. You'll get a good idea of how well your welds penetrated.

If you can still see the original rivets, just drill them out. I've used an endmill in my drill press to cut through welds, which works pretty good.


Everything else would have to be demilled in a similar fashion.



And when you put it back together, use rivets :D

While your method is sound, I think it's overkill. Also, if he's not confident in his weld penetration/skills, he shouldn't be welding it to begin with IMHO. I agree though, when cutting off the existing receiver, take a look at your penetration. This can be done without taking the barrel out.

Riveting is great and gives it the factory look, but to pull the barrel just because he welded stuff on crookedly is going to take it back way to many steps and require more tools etc etc. He's already "built" this thing, he just needs to fix it. Er, Doc needs to fix it for him :laughing:

Will pencil it in. :flipoff2: I have a conference Saturday morning, but should be free after that. I'll give you a call. Thanks.

if my leave goes through I should be there all next week

This thread needs more pictures :flipoff2:


Have been feeling like shit for the past few days, so I took a sick day today, and finished up another Bulgy '74. I built it week or so ago, but fucked up the receiver somehow, and it wouldn't strip a round out of the magazine, and then just fucked up the receiver even more trying to make it work, so I said fuck it and cut it all up and started over with a fresh receiver.


Used an AK-builder flat that already had the stepped and trimmed rails, with the 45* cut and that fancy shit...


And here's a few other recent projects. Some welds need to be smoothed, and some pins need to be installed.. but whatever.


Top is a Romy G "rusty" kit from Centerfire however long ago that was...
Middle is an Egyptian Maadi with a Romanian barrel that Apex was selling a few months ago.
Bottom is the latest Bulgarian 74

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm21/animator752/P1010034.jpg

Whats your take on the new AK builder flats?

Whats your take on the new AK builder flats?



I'm happy with it.


Once everything was riveted, I had to spend all of 3 minutes with a file in 1 area to get the bolt carrier to drop in, but otherwise it worked out great. Didn't have to do any other trimming.

I used the one without centering pin holes, so I had to take a bit of extra time to make sure it was dead-centered in the jig, but once it bent, it folded up perfect. The pre-formed rails lined up perfect with the jig I've got, and everything was nice and even.

I don't see me using anything other than these new AK-builder flats from now on... they are well worth it.

That 74 looks way too nice for a commie gun. I really like the top one though :laughing: Are you going to cut the donkey dick off or leave it ultra-original? :flipoff2:

Chris

That 74 looks way too nice for a commie gun. I really like the top one though :laughing: Are you going to cut the donkey dick off or leave it ultra-original? :flipoff2:

Chris



The 74's were un-fired kits and were in immaculate shape. I'd never seen an AK with a gas block that was shiny on the inside.


The Romanian will stay as it is. Figured since I have a folding-stock Romy with vertical foregrip, I might as well have a fixed-stock Romy with vertical foregrip, in addition to the two others without vertical grips. Now I just need an Romy M65 and an M63... not gonna happen any time soon though..

Will pencil it in. :flipoff2: I have a conference Saturday morning, but should be free after that. I'll give you a call. Thanks.

the "function" part is fixed. if you brought the stock I would have fitted it for you as well :laughing:

some key points :flipoff2:

once bent you fit the rails to the bolt carrier , the the rails to the bolt access slot.
And you ONLY remove enough material from the rails to squeek by the bolt :flipoff2:

It should run fine........now :p

the "function" part is fixed. if you brought the stock I would have fitted it for you as well :laughing:

some key points :flipoff2:

once bent you fit the rails to the bolt carrier , the the rails to the bolt access slot.
And you ONLY remove enough material from the rails to squeek by the bolt :flipoff2:

It should run fine........now :p

I cut the lines that magically appeared on the rails. I wonder if I had more if I did them the same way? :flipoff2:


Thanks for fixing my fuckup man. I have a sledge hammer and can approximate the stock myself. :D

Resurrecting...just picked up a WASR-10 starter to play with

2 - 30rd clips included picked up 2 additional 30rd clips (romanian)
Rifle padded case with a huge pocket for ammo and 5 mag pockets
1000 rounds brass 7x62x39mm in (2) ammo cans
ALL for ~$595 at the Richmond gun and knife show this morning...

Some awesome deals there and I guess I am on Obama's most wanted list now :flipoff2:

DOC! I would like to put some rails on this and a AR stock...is Tapco pretty much the defacto for the weekender?

I shot off about 100 rounds earlier and didn't feel any trigger slap so I am guessing i lucked out .. but time will tell


EDIT - I noticed the barrel doens't have the tell tale Romanian extension on it - it is a WASR10/65 stamped on the receiver

pic

MAGAZINE you fucktard


Nice peashooter, I forgot all about that show. :/

It's magazine, not clip :mad: [/theredhorseman] :flipoff2:



I can't think of a good reason to put an AR-15 stock on an AK... but if you must.. :flipoff2: copes sells tapco products that will work.


If it's a romy wasr I'd imagine it would have already had the scope rail on it... but if not, it's gonna be a somewhat involved process to get it installed. Basically involves drilling and riveting. If you've never done one before, you probably don't want to to it yourself.

What's the headstamp on the 7.62x39? If it's yugoslavian, it will be corrosive, and you'll want to go against every AK belief and actually clean the rifle.


It looks like just a muzzle nut on the end of the barrel. Remove it and there should be threads on the muzzle. It should be left-hand threaded. Slant brakes were standard on almost every AKM produced, not just Romanian.

Chances are, the muzzle nut was put on for 922r compliance, so make sure you replace it with a US-made part. It would also be a good idea to identify your US parts, just to be on the safe side.

It's magazine, not clip :mad: [/theredhorseman] :flipoff2:

If it's a romy wasr I'd imagine it would have already had the scope rail on it... but if not, it's gonna be a somewhat involved process to get it installed. Basically involves drilling and riveting. If you've never done one before, you probably don't want to to it yourself.

What's the headstamp on the 7.62x39? If it's yugoslavian, it will be corrosive, and you'll want to go against every AK belief and actually clean the rifle.


It looks like just a muzzle nut on the end of the barrel. Remove it and there should be threads on the muzzle. It should be left-hand threaded. Slant brakes were standard on almost every AKM produced, not just Romanian.

Chances are, the muzzle nut was put on for 922r compliance, so make sure you replace it with a US-made part. It would also be a good idea to identify your US parts, just to be on the safe side.

OK faggots MAGAZINES! :flipoff2:

I'm liking the wooden stock and hand grips...sort of grew on me while I was cleaning it today

Oh and yes it has the Russian side scope mount already on the left side of the receiver.

I will take a look at the ammo tomorrow for the head stamps

Ok, so what's an AMD-65 kit that's had the rivet holes slightly boogered up but includes the longer US brake, a tapco trigger, a US piston, and a few tapco flats worth?

I'm tired of tripping over the box it's in every time I walk into my gun room.

$300-$325

$300-$325

No shit? Glad I asked, just might have to take some pictures and throw an ad up now.

I'm sure it's been covered but I really can't find it. How do you locate the ejector tab? Is it a set distance from ??? or put close and tweaked if needed?

Butt the ejector rail up to the trunnion, spaced down with a 1/4" drill bit. This will get you close enough to tweak if needed.

Didnt want to start another thread just to show off my AK...Girlfriend got me an m70 about 2 years ago from apex if I remember correctly....picked up some repair plates and let it sit in my room while i tried to get my life together. Finally got around to welding this thing up, was much easier than I thought it would be....took the "Fawk it, its an AK" approach to building it and it came out good I think. Now I want to build another and they are too damn expensive, did have the lady get me one of those centerfire suomi kits and a hba 80% receiver, well see how hard that one will be....

started with this...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/ltdangle/0504091050.jpg

added these...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/ltdangle/Mobile%20Uploads/20101221125204.jpg

and now...http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/ltdangle/Mobile%20Uploads/20110127165002.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v357/ltdangle/Mobile%20Uploads/20110127165025.jpg

so, who has built one of these suomi's?

so, who has built one of these suomi's?http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=932802&highlight=suomi
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=457403
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=672787

That's a good lookin M70. I want to build one but have no parts kit. I do however, have a Suomi kit and am extremely interested in building it

whered you find the parts kit for $70?

www.centerfiresystems.com

i believe they may be sold out. i got a killer deal as they fawked up on my order and made it up by "hand picking" 2 kits for me.
by having an order hand picked you usualy get a better finish (doesnt realy matter if you are refinishing the weapon) the gas block and sight will be strait instead of slightly off axis from shipping/abuse (not a hard fix to do but it is still extra work)
www.cheaperthandirt.com still had some AMD65 kits i believe.

search "ak parts kit" in google and you will get a bunch of hits

just started reading this & this had me :laughing: & :crybaby: & :barf:cat same time:flipoff2:

So I'm bumping this thread because I believe it's the summation of the original....

Anyhow, looks like I'll have a kit coming to me very soon :grinpimp:. I'm at the stage where I'm debating how I want to build this one. Do I go 80%, build a simple jig, and bend or just get a NODAK and be done with it. The following are my questions:

-Has anyone actually sold/traded/transferred an AK they build either on 80% or 100% (cant you technically trade and 80% build?). I don't PLAN on getting rid of it, but I've got enough AKs as it is that it may be an option down the road.

-Does anyone have a spare flat laying around from the Glory Days of AK builds?? Apparently you can't order direct from Tapco anymore :confused: (I'll bump the wanted thread)

-Lastly, the internal weld/screw debate. I LOVE my welded Yugo, but I already have a screw kit and taps on hand and am "hesitant" to weld on a 100% receiver IF I go that route.

In looking, building AKs isn't as popular due to prices of kits, but is anyone still having build parties etc?

So I'm bumping this thread because I believe it's the summation of the original....

Anyhow, looks like I'll have a kit coming to me very soon :grinpimp:. I'm at the stage where I'm debating how I want to build this one. Do I go 80%, build a simple jig, and bend or just get a NODAK and be done with it. The following are my questions:

-Has anyone actually sold/traded/transferred an AK they build either on 80% or 100% (cant you technically trade and 80% build?). I don't PLAN on getting rid of it, but I've got enough AKs as it is that it may be an option down the road.

-Does anyone have a spare flat laying around from the Glory Days of AK builds?? Apparently you can't order direct from Tapco anymore :confused: (I'll bump the wanted thread)

-Lastly, the internal weld/screw debate. I LOVE my welded Yugo, but I already have a screw kit and taps on hand and am "hesitant" to weld on a 100% receiver IF I go that route.

In looking, building AKs isn't as popular due to prices of kits, but is anyone still having build parties etc?

Come to Texas...we can have a build party....

Personally, I wouldn't weld or screw. I have riveted all mine, but if those were the options I would weld on a 1.6mm

Flat or receiver is s personal choice. If you don't have a jig to bend you will quickly spend the cost of a new receiver just in materials to bend one. For a single build, its probably best to just buy one.
If you do decide to use a flat, get one from AK builder.

So I'm bumping this thread because I believe it's the summation of the original....

Anyhow, looks like I'll have a kit coming to me very soon :grinpimp:. I'm at the stage where I'm debating how I want to build this one. Do I go 80%, build a simple jig, and bend or just get a NODAK and be done with it. The following are my questions:

-Has anyone actually sold/traded/transferred an AK they build either on 80% or 100% (cant you technically trade and 80% build?). I don't PLAN on getting rid of it, but I've got enough AKs as it is that it may be an option down the road.

-Does anyone have a spare flat laying around from the Glory Days of AK builds?? Apparently you can't order direct from Tapco anymore :confused: (I'll bump the wanted thread)

-Lastly, the internal weld/screw debate. I LOVE my welded Yugo, but I already have a screw kit and taps on hand and am "hesitant" to weld on a 100% receiver IF I go that route.

In looking, building AKs isn't as popular due to prices of kits, but is anyone still having build parties etc?

You may sell a 80% build after it's appropriatly marked. I've done it. Buy your flat and stuff from AK builder. My first build ever was a screw built pistol, but I rivet now.

Come to Texas...we can have a build party....

Personally, I wouldn't weld or screw. I have riveted all mine, but if those were the options I would weld on a 1.6mm

Flat or receiver is s personal choice. If you don't have a jig to bend you will quickly spend the cost of a new receiver just in materials to bend one. For a single build, its probably best to just buy one.
If you do decide to use a flat, get one from AK builder.

I don't have the rivetting stuff. I have a welder and screws though. Plus, with a rivet build, don't I have to pop the barrel out :barf: ?

Also, I think I have more than enough material to build a bending jig. Especially the simple one that uses the bolts and such, not a press.

You may sell a 80% build after it's appropriatly marked. I've done it. Buy your flat and stuff from AK builder. My first build ever was a screw built pistol, but I rivet now.

Care to freshen me up on "appropriately marked" ??

How is that viewed by potential buyers and how did you justify your work etc?

Do you find a self built AK holds more "value" than an commercially built/marked one?

Care to freshen me up on "appropriately marked" ??

How is that viewed by potential buyers and how did you justify your work etc?

Do you find a self built AK holds more "value" than an commercially built/marked one?

must have a serial number and the location of it's build on it somewhere.

ATF specifies the information needed, the size and depth of the markings etc.

IIRC, basically, it should be marked with a model and caliber, serial #, and city/state it was built in. Letters must be 1/8" high min, and .003 deep min.

Most buyers would prefer a commercially built one, to a home made receiver.

ATF specifies the information needed, the size and depth of the markings etc.

IIRC, basically, it should be marked with a model and caliber, serial #, and city/state it was built in. Letters must be 1/8" high min, and .003 deep min.

Most buyers would prefer a commercially built one, to a home made receiver.

I know I would shy away from a home-built vs a commercial unless I knew the builder.

I wouldn't buy a home built, unless the price was right for parts only

Good info all, thanks for the refresher!

I'm going to calculate the cost of a flat, renting a jig, etc etc and see how close it is to a 100% with fees ($85 total).

I'm all about DIY, but if it's a wash to save the time and effort while having a commercially build receivered gun I may go that route.

Good info all, thanks for the refresher!

I'm going to calculate the cost of a flat, renting a jig, etc etc and see how close it is to a 100% with fees ($85 total).

I'm all about DIY, but if it's a wash to save the time and effort while having a commercially build receivered gun I may go that route.




By the time you factor in rental fee and shipping cost, you'll be over the cost of a new receiver, unless you can rent a jig for free.


But if you ever do want to build one, several of us in TX have the tools to do it. Not so big on build parties any more, but we could probably get you set up with a nice rifle in a weekend..

By the time you factor in rental fee and shipping cost, you'll be over the cost of a new receiver, unless you can rent a jig for free.


But if you ever do want to build one, several of us in TX have the tools to do it. Not so big on build parties any more, but we could probably get you set up with a nice rifle in a weekend..

Sounds like some peoples from your great state have stepped up with a great option for a jig :smokin:

I like the idea of ordering and picking up something complete, but I can't fight the urge to build :homer:

For value and quality, you can't beat a Nodak. If you want to point to something and say "I made that", get the flat. Just don't expect to be time or money ahead.

For value and quality, you can't beat a Nodak. If you want to point to something and say "I made that", get the flat. Just don't expect to be time or money ahead.

That's what I'm self debating. I've done both (bought/built). At this point, the appeal of just building SOMETHING is screaming to me :homer:

with everyones tinfoil panties on nice and tight this week, might as well build it so it doesnt have a S/N :vader:

ATF specifies the information needed, the size and depth of the markings etc.

IIRC, basically, it should be marked with a model and caliber, serial #, and city/state it was built in. Letters must be 1/8" high min, and .003 deep min.

Most buyers would prefer a commercially built one, to a home made receiver.I'd put the markings on so the casual observer doesn't conclude there's an issue with it anyway.

But, what's the best way to mark it?

the casual observer wont know the fawkin difference.


casual observers dont know the difference on my 10/22 suppressed barrel from a bull bbl.
99% unknown casual observers dont know i carry everywhere, every day.
casual observers (unless in the know with 922r compliance) are just that- and wont know the difference.


you're not in the wrong with a properly built 922r gun, might as well leave it that way. fawk the casual observers who are uneducated :D

I'd put the markings on so the casual observer doesn't conclude there's an issue with it anyway.

But, what's the best way to mark it?

Best way, is to get it professionally engraved.

Cheepest is buy some stamps from brownells.

cheap(er) is to just engrave it and go slowly :D

best way, is to get it professionally engraved.

Cheepest is buy some stamps from harbor freight.


fify

I'm thinking I should have put 'casual observer' in quotes?

I was thinking up some sort of jig to do the lettering. Pantograph type of thing with engraver on one end.

http://rpmedia.ask.com/ts?u=/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/12/Pantograph_2X.gif/120px-Pantograph_2X.gif

http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/pantograph/pantograph.jpg

I have the HF stamps. Not liking the size...

http://www.weaponeer.net/forum/uploads/Weaponeer/images/2007-12-22_033726_DSC00010.JPG

I cnc engraved all of mine. I can cnc engrave your flat, but not a bent receiver.

I cnc engraved all of mine. I can cnc engrave your flat, but not a bent receiver.

Could you CNC engrave a bunch of stuff on the outside of a 48" long piece of tube? Maybe seem info repeated 6 times?

I keep thinking up stuff like this the airline is going to hit me up with overweight fees next trip :)

PonyDriver still has his jig here, send him a PM

I'm thinking I should have put 'casual observer' in quotes?

I was thinking up some sort of jig to do the lettering. Pantograph type of thing with engraver on one end.

http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/pantograph/pantograph.jpg

I have the HF stamps. Not liking the size...

That would be awesome.

I got my letter sets in 1/8" tall Very tiny really

Best way, is to get it professionally engraved.

Cheepest is buy some stamps from brownells.

No

:flipoff2:

cheapest AND easiest AND professional is to chemical etch it using enamel (nail polish) as a mask and muriatic acid (diluted) as your etch. :p

very easy to do and will deep etch. some guys are using printable transfer paper, printing a negative on a home printer, iron it on and getting impressive results.

I did my can's numbers in aluminum with chemical etch

Ummmm,.. sortta new to that,... which color?

http://www.nail-spa.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Nail-Polish-Colors-2.jpg

:laughing:

I'll have to look into the etching, but I don't think that will have the same look.

very easy to do and will deep etch. some guys are using printable transfer paper, printing a negative on a home printer, iron it on and getting impressive results.

I did my can's numbers in aluminum with chemical etch

I guess you could use the same method for making circuit boards. They make a uv reactive paint that you coat the metal with then print out your art on transparency paper with a laser printer. You put the artwork on your material, hit it with UV light, then apply the developer.

I wouldn't mind building an AK but I wouldn't know where to start, and I don't know anybody local that would show me.

I've sold two of my home builds. Marked them like GZ said and never had any issues.
I have 3 weld builds that are loaners, untold rounds and zero issues.

Buy a NDS, you'll be glad you did

I wouldn't mind building an AK but I wouldn't know where to start,

--> Here? (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=638505)

--> Here? (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=638505)

Gee thanks. :rolleyes:

I also heard that you can't use the old barrels anymore.

Could you CNC engrave a bunch of stuff on the outside of a 48" long piece of tube? Maybe seem info repeated 6 times?

I keep thinking up stuff like this the airline is going to hit me up with overweight fees next trip :)

Yes. Also check on the AK files for cell phone charger engraving.

I also heard that you can't use the old barrels anymore.

What?

Gee thanks. :rolleyes:

I also heard that you can't use the old barrels anymore.




Why couldn't you??



As long as the barrel complies with local and federal laws, it's fine to use.


Kits haven't been imported with barrels since 2005-2006, which is what has led to the price increases. Now they come cut up, or missing altogether.


My first AK kit was 99 bucks, new, unfired... way back in the day...

Kits haven't been imported with barrels since 2005-2006, which is what has led to the price increases. Now they come cut up, or missing altogether.


My first AK kit was 99 bucks, new, unfired... way back in the day...

That's what I was thinking. Looking at the prices now it's more than $300 for a kit. :( I'm also seeing a lit more 74's than 47's.

That's what I was thinking. Looking at the prices now it's more than $300 for a kit. :( I'm also seeing a lit more 74's than 47's.




It's supply and demand. Back when 7.62x39 was 80 bucks per case, it was the gun everyone wanted, considering 5.45x39 was around 115 or more per case at the same time.


Now 7.62x39 is more expensive than the 5.45, so the demand has shifted.


I've still got a pile of 5.45 kits that need to be built. And I *might* pick up another 7.62 kit for an extra special project... but as far as building goes, that bubble kinda burst around 2007 or 2008, and has slowly dwindled down to almost nothing, sadly...

i still got 3-4 of those :D
unfired number matching :grinpimp:
but im sworn to not touch them till the FAL is build :(

i still got 3-4 of those :D
unfired number matching :grinpimp:
but im sworn to not touch them till the FAL is build :(



What are you waiting on?

welp- at the fawking moment- a steady job :(

havent made a decision on where im gonna work.

welp- at the fawking moment- a steady job :(

havent made a decision on where im gonna work.

So... You're saying you've got a lot of spare time, and all your work tools at home with you? That's the perfect time to build! :flipoff2:

Best way, is to get it professionally engraved.

Cheepest is buy some stamps from brownells.

cheap(er) is to just engrave it and go slowly :D


Wonder what Things Remembered would say :confused:


PonyDriver still has his jig here, send him a PM


May do that. Have a lead on one now which would ship with other stuff....thanks!

No

:flipoff2:

cheapest AND easiest AND professional is to chemical etch it using enamel (nail polish) as a mask and muriatic acid (diluted) as your etch. :p

very easy to do and will deep etch. some guys are using printable transfer paper, printing a negative on a home printer, iron it on and getting impressive results.

I did my can's numbers in aluminum with chemical etch

So the negative transfer is the mask for the ename. Then the chemical etch is applied and let to work. Enamel removed. Done?

How deep does this go? Can it be painted/coated afterwards and still legible?

Yes. Also check on the AK files for cell phone charger engraving.

Elaborate some plz!!! AK Files requires registration and apparently they don't recognize @gmail.com addresses

welp- at the fawking moment- a steady job :(

havent made a decision on where im gonna work.





Gotcha. Sorry about the job situation...

If you were waiting on any misc. parts, let me know and I'll see what I can come up with.

So the negative transfer is the mask for the ename. Then the chemical etch is applied and let to work. Enamel removed. Done?

How deep does this go? Can it be painted/coated afterwards and still legible?



Elaborate some plz!!! AK Files requires registration and apparently they don't recognize @gmail.com addresses

Like this, but with a charger. Wait one, I'll cut and paste from the files...

http://www.etching-metal.com/eom.htm

DIY setup...


http://www.navaching.com/forge/etching.html

"6-12 V should work real good.get two alligator clips,put one on each end of the wires.the positive,once you know which is which will go to the Q-tip or what ever you use and the neg,if it doesn't etch with it one way reverse the alligator clips,goes to the metal or what ever you are working on.basically ground the part.and no the tape is not affected by the solution just the exposed metal.vinyl stencil material would work great to..so in a nut shell,cut a stencil,tape it or apply it so it won't move on ya,hook the clips up,pos. to the Q-tip,neg to the material and dip the Q-tip into the solution of choice and touch it to the area on the stencil that is your design and hold it there till it has etched a few minutes.depending on the voltage is how long you keep it there.test on some clean metal for time and depth"

Will that method etch to the necessary depth and with enough precision to be legible?

Yes. Also check on the AK files for cell phone charger engraving.

DIY setup...


http://www.navaching.com/forge/etching.html

:smokin: So I wonder how the normal saline in my jump bag will do :D

I'm still curious how long it would take to get to acceptable marking depths though.

no, you can acid etch steel and aluminum with regular chemicals, IE no electricity.

galvanic etch is 'safer" and "more controlable" but not nearly as fun as playing with an acid :D

deep and I mean DEEP serial in my aluminum can took 5-10 min with a dilute acid. you can do legal depth in steel in maybe 20 min

http://sbgswordforum.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=swordcustom&action=print&thread=7742

Like this, but with a charger. Wait one, I'll cut and paste from the files...

http://www.etching-metal.com/eom.htm

I have that, and it works great. The only bitch is making your own stencils. You basically set up a darkroom to develop them. Very much like film camera prints.
But I worry about the depth. Same goes for the acid etch mentioned earlier.
Now on alum maybe it does go deep enough. But on steel I was uneasy.
Lets just say that after coating with 3 coats of Duracoat, a camo pattern, it became difficult to feel the 'engraving' much less see it.

Some local engraving places are fine engraving round tubes and flat pieces of metal. You dont need to tell them what it is and pre-construction it is just raw metal.

I also found a guy that will do AK and AR receivers. I have to schedule an appointment, because he isnt an FFL so I cant leave the stuff there. I only bring in the stripped receiver. He charges $25 per.

So that is what I do now for anything going to a customer. My stuff still gets the steel punch and heavy hammer.

no, you can acid etch steel and aluminum with regular chemicals, IE no electricity.


Acid type/source?

So that is what I do now for anything going to a customer. My stuff still gets the steel punch and heavy hammer.

I've got this covered, but other options are nice to consider.


and check. ur. p. ms. :flipoff2:

Acid type/source?

"Oh and one more thing... Ferric Chloride works really well for this, much better than salt water (sodium chloride). But it's a lot more messy. It'll stain anything it touches and you'll need to use gloves. You can get it pretty cheap at Radio Shack though"

So... You're saying you've got a lot of spare time, and all your work tools at home with you? That's the perfect time to build! :flipoff2:

no totally. i guess i *could* do what i can- but i dont have all my compliance parts. i was going to do different things with each kit too.



Gotcha. Sorry about the job situation...

If you were waiting on any misc. parts, let me know and I'll see what I can come up with.

no worries man, appreciate it!
hmm.... small misc. parts....... yes- i need everything minus a barrel and a parts kit :D :rolleyes:

no totally. i guess i *could* do what i can- but i dont have all my compliance parts. i was going to do different things with each kit too.





no worries man, appreciate it!
hmm.... small misc. parts....... yes- i need everything minus a barrel and a parts kit :D :rolleyes:



If I had a spare receiver, I'd have already built another one with all the spare parts I have... :flipoff2:

"Oh and one more thing... Ferric Chloride works really well for this, much better than salt water (sodium chloride). But it's a lot more messy. It'll stain anything it touches and you'll need to use gloves. You can get it pretty cheap at Radio Shack though"

Saw that but will that work in ferrous metals also?

Radio Shack right?

Saw that but will that work in ferrous metals also?

Radio Shack right?

Can't help there, I quoted someone on that board who stated thats how he does steel. I have no experience with such things, as my CNC mill engraves very easily :flipoff2:

Why all this talk about elaborate rube goldberg devices to engrave a flat when you can buy a NDS-3 economy receiver for $60 shipped (which is fully heat treated to boot).

Why all this talk about elaborate rube goldberg devices to engrave a flat when you can buy a NDS-3 economy receiver for $60 shipped (which is fully heat treated to boot).

Plus ffl transfer which is $25 for me (way more for others!). So $85 when the sun sets. Also, doing things my way myself is way more fun and rewarding.

Plus....

Flat ~$15
Jig ~$20 (cost of shipping-ish to rent)
Welding Rails - "free"
Torch to heat treat - "free"
Oil to quench - "free"

I have punches for serial number, or buying etching supplies is cheap or on hand.

So, I'm already $50 ahead which will easily cover the compliance parts.

Why all this talk about elaborate rube goldberg devices to engrave a flat when you can buy a NDS-3 economy receiver for $60 shipped (which is fully heat treated to boot).

Because to some (many) its more about the journey than the destination.

Why all this talk about elaborate rube goldberg devices to engrave a flat when you can buy a NDS-3 economy receiver for $60 shipped (which is fully heat treated to boot).

Same reason I purchased a bunch of 12"x6"x1.5mm peaces of sheet metal for 1.50ea and skipped the pre cut flat step...
To see if I could.

Bolt, bolt carrier, barrel, and a FCG. That is about all you need.
You can fab up your own trunnions, gas tube, receiver, gas block, sights.

Hell, you could even get a barrel blank and a chamber reamer.

Why all this talk about elaborate rube goldberg devices to engrave a flat when you can buy a NDS-3 economy receiver for $60 shipped (which is fully heat treated to boot).Because you didn't look at the photo I posted?

I also have a link to DIY anodizing on my home pc. :smokin:

I also have a link to DIY anodizing on my home pc. :smokin:

I have all the gear, tanks, heaters, etc. Also picked upsome black and OD green dye.

Planning on doing the .22 LR can internals, alum baffle stack

Because you didn't look at the photo I posted?

Work filter blocks most photos, sorry didnt mean to derail the thread :homer:

Just so you all understand where I am coming from I jacked up my first build on a flat and ended up demilling it and rebuilding on a NDS-1 Receiver. The normalized steel used to make the flats is weaker than the fully treated receiver (comparing demilling the original off of the Romy receiver stubs vs demilling the flat build). I fubared the receiver installing the center support wrong and then trying to remove the rivet.

That being said I have access to a flat bending jig as well as rivet jigs if anybody local needs to use them.

I also have a link to DIY anodizing on my home pc. :smokin:

http://www.focuser.com/anodize.html

Figured I'd add some actual work to this thread....almost done :D....

started with...

650874
650875

Now I'm here...

650876

Everything is fitting PERFECT so far *knock on wood*. Just need to weld in rails, heat treat, test fire, finish! Oh, and I have to drill the remaining trunion holes :homer:

Hard to tell in the pics, but the difference in wood from start to now is significant. I'm super happy with it!

Anyone have accurate receiver plans?
The only ones I have with the third hole are a bit off. My trip lever isnt catching hamer. Looks like it's too far forward.

:mad:

OK found a DFX file. Was able to load in Visio.
the template was intended to glue on, so only has holes dimensioned.
I checked both the holes, and the dimensions I came up with are very close to what is called for. So I then located the holes. Measuring down from the top rail as well as from the existing holes hopefully I can better locate

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/6810053233_e4e0cb9813_b.jpg

hmm........ i sell CNC plasma tables...... i wonder if i can load this into it and cut it out :smokin:

http://www.earlsstuff.com/Manuals/Full%20Auto%20ConversionAK47.pdf

OK found a DFX file. Was able to load in Visio.
the template was intended to glue on, so only has holes dimensioned.
I checked both the holes, and the dimensions I came up with are very close to what is called for. So I then located the holes. Measuring down from the top rail as well as from the existing holes hopefully I can better locate

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/6810053233_e4e0cb9813_b.jpg



That one looks identical to the one I have, and when printed out to scale, the one I have was spot-on with its dimensions.


When printing, you have to make absolutely sure it's printed at the right scale, since printing software will want to scale it to fit the page.



edit to add: there are also 3rd hole axis drill jigs available for purchase... I haven't needed to buy one, so I can't say how available they are, but I have seen them out there. There are also printable 3rd pin hole diagrams, but you'd have to deal with printing to scale with those again...

Yeah, I can print it on 11x17 paper and not worry about scaleing.

hmm........ i sell CNC plasma tables...... i wonder if i can load this into it and cut it out :smokin:



There's more to just cutting it out though. You'll still need some type of mandrel to stamp the mag dimples and selector dimple.


And you'll want an easy way to form the rails over (metal brake works) and you'll need a way to machine the 45* ejection cut.



But it'd be cool as fuck if you could do it. I'd buy one :flipoff2:

I have one at the house, and I believe it has measurements to locate, not just a template. I also have a Hungarian sub with enough of the 3Rd hole to get a measurement from.

I think I remember reading that the file posted above was incorrect, but I have never used it....that was possibly a scaling error as well.

hmm........ i sell CNC plasma tables...... i wonder if i can load this into it and cut it out :smokin:

My first build ever was a pistol I made on a flat I made on our waterjet. I made a folding jig that also does the top rails and the magwell dimples.

FWIW, I just did a right click, view photo. Then file, print. Using Firefox.
It did split the image on 2 pages but no apparent scaling.

I have a pair of digital calipers that read to .005

The distance between the hammer and trigger pins measured 1.545 on paper.
I laid it on top of a raw NoDak NDS1 and the holes line up.

My AMD74 has the third pin hole ~.15 too far forward.

Mig it closed and redrill.

Well the final location of the 3rd pin is fine now. The rifle functions as intended in all selector positions