How to build a AK variant at home (2nd edition) [Archive]

usmcdoc14

02-08-2005, 05:34 PM

This is the beginning instalment on how to build an AK 47 or one of its many variants at home mind you EVERYTHING here is BATF legal but your actual legality may vary from state to state ,so do you fawking homework before building :D
This is the edited version of the "original" how to build an AK" thread.
DO NOT POST TO THIS THREAD TILL I AM DONE MOVING EVERYTHING !!

First you go an find the type and style of AK that you want to build. I will be building an AMD 65. it is a AK for tankers and armored vehicles so it has a VERY short barrel and rear folding stock.
You can search threw a wide assortment of websites for what is called a "parts kit"
you see will all the gobernment red tape the whole AK cant make it here. The receiver (the body of a weapon) must be cut in 3 diagonal slices,with a gas torch,and must remove at least 1/8inch of material in the cut. basically making it worthless. but if you go and remove all the parts from the rifle and put them aside you can torch the reciever and just have "parts" that are legal for import (for now anyway)
This is basically what a parts kit includes (my handguards an pistol grip are not in the pic)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=171851&stc=1
It will include everything but a receiver. Mind you you just cant add a receiver and be done. legal crap to deal with first. but lets strip the gun for prep.
I will be doing a screwed together build. IE; tap and screw. you can also rivet it back together if you have the tools or even weld it if you trust you plug welds. I will screw it first and if it sucks i will weld it :flipoff2:
First remove the old rivets
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=171850&stc=1
the front and rear trunnions (cross members) have rivets.you will want to grind them flush so you can drill in the exact (or close to) center of them.
the rear can be drilled strait threw as there is nothing in the way but the front 4 MUST be stop checked so you dont drill into the barrel :eek:
all the AK forums i wet to had these annoying drill/check/drill/check methods that sucked. i just put the trunnion in the vice,made it level, set my stop to what the barrel depth is (you can see the chamber sticking out in front of the trunnion) and then drilled my pilot holes and then larger.
The old holes are PERFECT to tap to 10-32. but you can run the correct drill size before just to be sure
Tap the trunnions. i had a regular 10-32 tap and a bottoming one ($5 at grainger) the bottoming ones are used in the front 4 holes (obviously)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=171853&stc=1
the guys on the AK forums bitched of breaking taps :confused: umm use some fucking tap lube,clear the chips or something :shaking:
and here are the screws in place
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=171852&stc=1
You can order sets of screws already the right size (www.gunbroker.com) or grind some and then get the correct size.
size WILL vary depending on the receiver you use

usmcdoc14

02-08-2005, 05:48 PM

Ok next step is to make you AK variant BATF legal :D
by ATF rules you can not have more than 10 imported parts in your "evil black guns" an AK when it left the factory had from 14-16 "parts by definition" in it
(1) Frames, receivers, receiver castings, forgings or
stampings
(2) Barrels
(3) Mounting blocks (trunnions)
(4) Muzzle attachments
(5) Bolts
(6) Bolt carriers
(7) Gas pistons
(8) Triggers
(9) Hammers
(10) Disconnectors
(11) Buttstocks
(12) Pistol grips
(13) Forearm handguards
(14) Magazine body
(15) Followers
(16) Floorplates

A milled rifle without a muzzle brake has 14 parts because it doesn't have a trunnion. The part that serves that purpose is built in to the receiver.

With a muzzle brake makes 15.

A stamped rifle without a muzzle brake has 15 parts. Pesky trunnion.

With a brake 16.

so if you replace 5 or 6 parts you end up with a "legal" US weapon :evil:
so i will be replacing the pistol grip and foregrip
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=171858&stc=1
trigger group (or fire control modual)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=171856&stc=1
also the gas tube. but in order to remove the gas tube you must remove the pin that is holding it. find it and drill or knock it out. go and find a drill bit exactly the same size. slide it on the bit in your press and vice it so the drill bit is inline with both holes. screw the new gas piston in leaving a little gap (same as the old one) and cross drill it. then pin it back in place.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=171857&stc=1
also an ADM 65 is NOT LEGAL in its current barrel length of 12.5 inches. so you must extend it to 16 inches. I used a www.tapco.com muzzle brake that does 2 things. first it replaces a part :D and makes it legal length :flipoff2:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=171859&stc=1
and put a tack weld or silver solder it so it wont come off

usmcdoc14

02-08-2005, 05:59 PM

the next step will be putting all the parts into the reciever. I will cover this when i get my recievers :flipoff2: :laughing:

but here are some options:
a reciever when "finished " is a FFL item and must be transfered by FFL. BUT you can make your own :evil:
the reason being is YOU,YES YOU can make ANY FAWKING WEAPON YOU WANT (as long as its not a short shotgun/rifle or fully auto fo the most part)

as long as you dont sell it or get rid of it :D

there are many companys out there that sell "80%" finished recievers or "reciever flats" these are great if you plan on making a shitload because you will need a pressing die to bend them up. great if you and a bunch of your friends want AK's
Next option is "lazer cut flats" these are pre-scored and easy to fold (the reciever is realy just a fawkin box) and you weld the edges after you fold it.
with eather of these you will want to heat treat all the holes/extractor/stuff when done.

not hard AT ALL ...but i am fawking lazy :flipoff2:

I am waiting for my FFL info to get back to me so i can send the check.

being as an ohio ordanance reciever is only $59 i cant argue :p
i will cover the finish from there once it comes in and now will answer questions :laughing:

usmcdoc14

02-08-2005, 06:07 PM

can you get sick more often?
no, now fawk off :laughing: :flipoff2: this is what happens when you are to sick to sleep

you gonna do one of these for an AR?
no. an AR variant is a little more of a bitch to finish a reciever "in the white" or 80% done. i dont have a milling machine so if i did an AR i would buy a reciever

great post! how about a tally of how much coin you have in it so far?
i will round up to whole dollars
AMD 65 parts kit $70
us made grip $20 (you can get others for like $6)
us made forend $20 (you can use other ones also or just replace the pistol grip on an AMD65 with another US made pistol grip)
fire control group $30
gas piston $20
muzzle brake $20
screws taps and drill bits $15
reciever $60

so for around $255 i can build a US legal AMD65 that is tuned and made EXACTLY how i want it :D

you an actualy do a "regular" AK for less and even less more if you frequent gun shows

usmcdoc14

02-08-2005, 06:52 PM

for those intrested in bending thier own reciever here is
a link to where they sell them (https://www.vbd.com/noc/shop/)

and here is an ar15.com build up using those flats
Link (http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=51&t=65328&page=1)

usmcdoc14

02-09-2005, 10:14 AM

anyone know if the building it yourself makes it legal in Kali?
you can have any weapon purchaced or made as long as it doesnt violate CA's anal retentive codes
so no folding stock,high cap mags, pistol grip (i think) must be pink or orange in color and have child safty warnings in green letters on the side :laughing:
mine is built off national rules and maryland rules (hence you WILL NOT SEE any mags with a capacity greater than 20 rounds in any of my pics)

check your local laws, google is your friend

sceep

02-09-2005, 10:20 AM

whered you find the parts kit for $70?

usmcdoc14

02-09-2005, 10:27 AM

whered you find the parts kit for $70?

www.centerfiresystems.com

i believe they may be sold out. i got a killer deal as they fawked up on my order and made it up by "hand picking" 2 kits for me.
by having an order hand picked you usualy get a better finish (doesnt realy matter if you are refinishing the weapon) the gas block and sight will be strait instead of slightly off axis from shipping/abuse (not a hard fix to do but it is still extra work)
www.cheaperthandirt.com still had some AMD65 kits i believe.

search "ak parts kit" in google and you will get a bunch of hits

UZI 9mm

02-09-2005, 10:29 AM

usmcdoc14

02-09-2005, 10:35 AM

Can some kind soul answer some newbie questions?

...err what is the point of all this?

I mean I thought the whole point of an AK being so cool, was that it could go full auto at the flip of a switch. no, i am NOT building a full auto weapon

So I don't quite understand all this effort and "letter of the law" circumnavigation to build an AK that is going to be hideously illegal if it's made into a switchable machine gun.actualy if you want a full auto you just have to apply for one and pay the tax stamp

If it's mearly just built to have a "legal" rifle, based on getting around laws meant to prevent them from being sold to people who want machine guns, and you *aren't* going to make it a fully automatic gun????no, i want an AK and the ones that are fully built are eather overpriced or crap :flipoff2:

:confused:

Are AK's just so good that all this effort is worth it for a rifle?

Don't get me wrong, I like machine guns :D I just don't quite follow the reasoning, that's all.

like i said if i wanted a full auto i would just appy and pay the tax stamp but i just wasnt a SEMI-AUTO AK that i can build for less than half of what is wanted,with better parts,better fit and finish (because i control it) and the fact i built the fawker myself :laughing:
and like i said if i built my reciever i would have a completely LEGAL weapon with no one but myself knowing i had it :blackhelocopters:

usmcdoc14

02-09-2005, 12:06 PM

whered you find the parts kit for $70?

so far it looks like everyone is sold out :( i still see some people selling them for around that price on www.gunbroker.com and also the for sale forum on the ak forums on www.gunsnet.net.

check to see when the next gun show is comming by in your area also

usmcdoc14

02-13-2005, 09:19 AM

Today's update:

Like i said before, in order for these weapons to be BATF legal they MUST have a barrel length of 16inches. The muzzle brake/ barrel extention for these weapons ONLY must be welded or silver soldered in place.

This is not the rule with a traditional AK variant as the barrel length is over 16 inches and you may change the muzzle brake/flash suppressor as you wish when you wish.

Mine are tack welded in place, the weld is deep enuf that it wont crack/move/do shit but i could drill it out later if i need to.

CruiserJoe

02-13-2005, 11:54 AM

anyone know if the building it yourself makes it legal in Kali?

No, it doesn't. The California AWB is based on removable magazines, plus any of the evil features, which include pistol grips. If you owned one before 2000, you had to get it registered and then could not transfer in within Cali.
For the most part, building something yourself does not change whether you can legally possess it or not.

California-legal guns can have removeable magazines, but none of the other features, like Mini-14's and M1a's. And magazines are limited to 10 rounds, with the transfer of even pre-bans being illegal.
Or one evil feature with a fixed magazine Like the FAB-10 (http://www.fabten.com/)
Or none of those fun things, ex: SKS's and M1 Garands.

CaverInaCruiser

02-13-2005, 01:03 PM

WTF?
Build an AK 47 from parts cut from another one?

Why not just buy an AK-47 complete? I can go to Dougs Shootin' Sports 2 blocks from where I live, plunk down $250 for a german made AK-47...

usmcdoc14

02-13-2005, 01:17 PM

WTF?
Build an AK 47 from parts cut from another one?

Why not just buy an AK-47 complete? I can go to Dougs Shootin' Sports 2 blocks from where I live, plunk down $250 for a german made AK-47...

what reciever is it built on? what US compliance parts are used? what is its model designator? Who built it?

go and TRY to find me an AMD65 for less than $600 or fawk a draganov for less than $800

:::edit:::: the only AK you can get for under $250 is not german made but a romanian Wasr 10 low cap. so if you want to run high cap mags you need to modify the magwell. they dont have a threaded barrel,bayonette lug and usualy a stupid keyhole stock but not always.

they are a nice "starter" ak.

usmcdoc14

02-13-2005, 01:38 PM

for those of you that would like a nice "starter" AK variant,or have no mechanical skills, or just want to own a POS like everyone elses here is a link for you Atlantic Firearms (http://www.atlanticfirearms.com/programming/expand.asp?Prodid=4)
http://www.atlanticfirearms.com/admin/images/content/WASR10PACKAGE.jpg

mind you it doenst take high cap mags but that can be fixed with a Dremel tool :evil:

animator

02-13-2005, 04:27 PM

for those of you that would like a nice "starter" AK variant,or have no mechanical skills, or just want to own a POS like everyone elses here is a link for you

mind you it doenst take high cap mags but that can be fixed with a Dremel tool :evil:

One of the main concerns I've seen from the WASR 10s, aside from canted sights and gas tubes, is mag wobble. Since the reciever does not have the "dimples" stamped on either side of the mag well to keep the mags steady. Some people say it's a problem, some don't have that problem at all. Guess it just depends on the rifle...

usmcdoc14

02-15-2005, 06:17 PM

update for today while waiting on the recievers:

peep (ghost ring) sights are few and far to choose from for AK's. all the ones i have found are eather too low or way to fawking pricey ...or both :flipoff2:

welcome to the free AK47 peep sight :D I looked on the floor till i found a piece of steel, drilled a small hole in it, ground the old sight blade flat, welded it on. then i drilled it out till i got a hole size that made my eyes happy :p

dremeled it till i was happy with the shape.

Halogrinder

09-14-2005, 09:45 PM

hey WTF is this crap i read? is this true? does this mean i now have to buy the barrell additionally?= more money involved? fawk i knew i needed to order this earlier

***BuyNow! $99.97*** NEW ATF RULING! BARRELS CAN NO LONGER BE INCLUDED WITH IMPORTED AK47 PARTS KITS. ***NO MORE KITS CAN BE IMPORTED WITH BARRELS AFTER 9-10-05!*** Romanian GP1975 AK47 Parts Kit-in EXCELLENT CONDITION! These feature Threaded Barrels, front laminated wood pistol grip, original slant muzzle break, bayonet lug, and laminated wood butt stock. DOES NOT INCLUDE RECEIVER! (Receiver is torch cut per ATF specs). Bores are bright and shiny, in Excellent Condition! These spare/replacement parts kits come with all of the parts you see in the pictures. ***NO FFL NEEDED!*** Questions? gerrys@shooterswholesale.com or call Gerry at 208.895.0224 Money orders, certified checks, personal/business checks, COD, and BidPay (www.bidpay.com). Buyer pays $20 s&h to the lower 48 states. Sold as replacement/spare parts only, all NFA rules apply. Please check all federal, state and local laws before bidding. PRICES WILL GO UP SOON! ***BuyNow! $99.97***

link

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=37257968

usmcdoc14

09-15-2005, 07:03 AM

aloharover

09-28-2005, 08:37 AM

usmcdoc14

09-28-2005, 08:45 AM

Is an SVD built on a regular AK receiver?
I have never been a big fan of the AK, shot plenty of FA ones, but never really had a desire for my own.
But I loved the SVD. Just something about the "look" I really like. Plus its fun as hell to shoot.
With the show this weekend I thought I might look around for parts.

a "true" SVD and not a Romanian PSL uses its own style of reciever but they are available.

So you like the "Dragonov" look to the weapon ? in that case get a romanian or any other dragonov looking AK that is on a STAMPED reciever and build away :D If the sides of the trunnion are smooth like the ones in my pics they can be built on any reciever flat. if it has a "bump" over the top rivit area on the front trunnion than it requiers a special reciever but its not difficult to get at all.

If its milled... well you will need a milled reciever and some decent gunsmithing skills. still not hard but you will need to set headspacing

usmcdoc14

09-30-2005, 09:22 PM

Did I miss it or did you never share with us the actual finishing of the AMD65?
Did you get the recievers?
Hows the final product look?

yes, actualy any of the pics with a gun on APRILRAZZ's ass is the finished AMD :flipoff2:

i got impaitent and didnt photograph the finishing :emb:

http://tawayama.com/gunpics/docspics/aim8x10two.jpg

http://tawayama.com/gunpics/docspics/akbutt.jpg

I can get more pics if ya want. its finished in baked on rustoleum textured paint :evil: TOUGH shit

usmcdoc14

10-01-2005, 11:00 AM

ok fine :flipoff2:
FIT AND FINISH FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY!!

I will cover the 2 different styles of AK receivers and what is needed for fitting
The 2 styles are : pre-drilled holes and no holes :flipoff2: they both require similar fitment.

The only "really important" fit area is the magazine lockup. you will require a few mags to do this.
Install the trigger guard/mag catch. you may need to hone out the holes so the screws fit. make sure that you include the selector lever stop (the little plate with tab that goes under the mag catch end) and tighten it down.
Look into the magwell and make sure there is nothing in the way of the dimples. Joken brand receivers have a little metal tab on the inside that needs to be ground flush to the height of the magwell dimple.
slide the front trunnion into the receiver till the front edge of the trunnion is flush with the front edge of the receiver.

This is your starting point

use a small "C" clamp to squeeze the sides of the receiver and lock the trunnion so it dont move. Insert the mag and check the fit. (AK mags insert front first and rock back to lock)

IMPORTANT NOTE : not all AK mags are the same. every country fits a little different. The only ones that fit really well ALL THE TIME is foreign made plastic mags. NOT U.S. MADE ONES !!! they suck, dont buy them. if you find a mag that doent fit later on remove metal from the magazine locking tab NOT the AK locking lever.

ok back on subject.
Insert mags and move the trunnion front to back till you get good lockup that is solid but not loose. and mark the receiver and trunnion with a paint marker or something so you know EXACTLY where the front trunnion needs to be.
next part: Drilling

usmcdoc14

10-01-2005, 11:32 AM

Everyone has there different methods for drilling but i will tell you what i do and it works well with little to no odd shaped holes.
(with pre-drilled receivers skip this step)
i will measure with a caliper where EACH hole is on the receiver and then center punch that same location on the receiver. just use the channel in the trunnion as the top edge and get a X/Y location of each hole.
Do this for both sides, DO NO DRILL STRAIT THREW !!! sometimes the holes are not in the same location.

Drill it threw with a drill bit a good size smaller than what your final hole will be.

Insert the trunnion to its mark and clamp it in place.

now using a Dremel tool (you do have one right? you better get one) with the TUNGSTEN CARBIDE CUTTER
http://www.dremel.com/html/images/products/bits/large/9901.gif
(all others suck for this use) and grind out the hole to fit your tapped trunnion hole perfectly :D Just stick it in the thickness of the receiver only so you dont fuck up your nice threads.

and do the same for the pre-drilled ones as the holes may be off a little.

Rear trunnion: as long as you can get the dust cover on its in the correct spot.

NOW FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY TIPS :
I go and mix up some "regular" JB weld and put a thin smear on the trunnion before i side it in. I also put a good sized glob in the threaded holes before I tighten the screws and wipe off the excess. The JB weld with lock the fuck ut of the screw better than any locktight. it also is good to like 500* so you can still use bake on finishes.

You may need to remove some metal on the selector switch to get it to fit right. Either from the skinny space on the selector or off the "bump" on the inside of the receiver. If you got this far I am pretty sure you can figure out what needs to be done there :flipoff2:

Fire control group assembly goes like this: hammer first, next selector switch, then trigger. Lose that fucking "shepherd's crook" wire thingie and get some clips to fit the pins from the hardware store :laughing:

any questions please post up and i will gladly help and post any pics.

aloharover

10-01-2005, 12:26 PM

Thank you.

usmcdoc14

10-01-2005, 12:47 PM

Thank you.

oh and there is a 3rd option :evil:

weld the bitch :grinpimp:

locate the trunnion as above, clamp tight, drill NEW holes in the trunnion, plug weld (weld the top edge too if your good with a welder or can TIG)
gind smooth and fire away :flipoff2:

my next one will be a weld

NEWMANS OWN

10-03-2005, 08:10 PM

usmcdoc14

10-03-2005, 08:52 PM

Finally getting everything all together. I don't have a FFL, so I have to get the cut flat reciever and fold it myself.
few questions though.

I'm gogint to buy the one with the rails. where do they go on this flat reciever?
How do you heat treat this?
A mig work on this guy and then grind it down?
thanks for your help!

right behind the magwell dimples . the rails go there. the "square: one on the right the "shark fin" one on the left if you are looking at it from the top with the magwell to the front. the "fin" looking one is the extractor the other is a guide. they go flat top up. there should be a template with it. you will want to plug weld them in place or if you know someone with a spot welder it makes life suck less. If you run into problems post and i will see what i can do.

Heat treating the ghetto doc fortin way :flipoff2:
Items needed:
5lbs of salt (kosher salt is cheap)
bag of clean playground sand
bottle of Dawn liquid
magnet pickup thingie or a magnet on a stick

finish your receiver (bend/weld) weld on your rails, drill your trunnion holes as described before.
Mix the salt and Dawn in a 5 gallon bucket of hot water (to dissolve the salt) this is your quench bath. find a big pan to be able to cover the entire receiver with at least 2 inches of sand all the way around. this is your annealing tool. turn your home oven on to bake at 500*

the areas tempered are the fire control group holes and the extractor edge that faces forward.

Get a MAPP/oxy or oxy/act torch. heat up them until a bright orange/red color and a magnet will no longer stick to the red hot areas (around 1600*) and IMEDIATLY quench in the bath till cool. do ONE SIDE AT A TIME. dance the torch between the 2 holes so you can do them both at the same time and not untemper the hole you just did :D
heat,stick magnet, heat, stick, heat, no stick, quench

once all holes are done then bury it in the pan with sand and stick in the oven till it reaches 500* and then TURN OFF THE OVEN ! and walk away.
remove it when cool

aloharover

10-03-2005, 09:23 PM

NEWMANS OWN

10-03-2005, 09:23 PM

the cheap one for $99 from http://www.centerfiresystems.com/
got the reciever from tapco.
screw from the gun broker.
and the rest I will get the 14th at knob creek machine gun shoot

usmcdoc14

10-03-2005, 09:31 PM

Doc,
did you use screws on the trigger guard as well?

I have all the plans for the folding jig and the rivit jig. Just need to pick up some 3/4" after work tomorrow.

Should I put the jig photos here to keep it all related or start a new thread?

Thanks again for all the help
Pete

ALL SCREW get the whole kit from him : http://fng.mystarband.net/screwkit/ScrewKit.html

post it up here as i may want to bend some flats or "rent" yours from you depending on how well it works :flipoff2:

NEWMANS OWN: that kit will work perfect. i have one sitting next to me

Aron82

10-05-2005, 09:18 AM

usmcdoc14

10-06-2005, 08:25 AM

Oil quenching is generally prefered to the brine quench, but there is little real difference.

A note on the trigger gaurd. Do not tap the trigger gaurd or the selector lever stop, only tap the receiver. Red Loctite works great for keeping the receiver and trunions screwed. I have several thousand rounds through my first screw build and none of the screws have backed out or even budged. Also withe locktite all you have to do is heat it up to the release temp and it will easily screw out. It is 400* for the red.

As for the Sumi kit, the only legal thing you can build with it is a very deactivated dummy gun. It is an open bolt design and well unless you need a 9mm barrel there is really no point.
If you plan on doing a build, make sure you have your compliance parts factored into the budget. The tapco G-2 trigger group works very well, but is $40. The Century FCG is garbage.

oil quench is just a little slower but we are nit-picking a friggen AK here :laughing:
The screw kit i listed comes with thin nuts to use on the trigger guard. Another option is to take some 1/8 stock and make a "plate" to fit inside the reciever drilled/tapped for ALL 4 of the front guard screws. no stress, lots of thread, easy.

I use JB weld as my loctite as i bake my finishes on at 400* when assembled. :D they dont move at all :laughing:

NEWMANS OWN

10-06-2005, 08:38 AM

Could you post a pic of the finished one? if you don't mind.

Going to center fire on the 14th its only half an hour away and never new.

usmcdoc14

10-06-2005, 05:45 PM

Could you post a pic of the finished one? if you don't mind.

Going to center fire on the 14th its only half an hour away and never new.

this one?
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/2880/dsc00119kv.jpg

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/5856/dsc00152kq.jpg

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=392681

aloharover

10-09-2005, 06:39 PM

I was too busy this week to get the steel to build my bending jig,so this weekend I started to work on my rear sight. Docs peep site gave me the idea.
I am going to cut the stock blade off the rear sight and braze this in its place.
A 1" long 4-40 cap screw resides in the center. The end of it will get attached to the drum with a 2-56 set screw. Turn the drum and the site moves side to side.
Its got a full .4" movement side to side.
I will scribe a mark under the peep site and then scribe a scale onto the main tube (purple part).
The barell is going to have a small spring loaded ball bearing in it and then the plate it rides against will have 4 dimples in it.
I need to sit down and do some trig and figure out how much one full rotation of the 4-40 screw moves the rear site and from there calculate the bullet movement at 100 yrds. I will the plan for the dimples for the windage drum if I can get something like 1 click = 1moa.

aloharover

10-09-2005, 07:23 PM

Here I am putting the knurls in the windage drum and parting off the drum from the stock.

animator

10-09-2005, 07:43 PM

...so this weekend I started to work on my rear sight.

Gonna look a lot like the sight Doc made for me :D

crappy webcam photo--it's all I got:
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/6775/sight7jg.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

aloharover

10-09-2005, 07:45 PM

You also need some new knurling wheels. but it looks good

and i need a lathe :laughing:

:flipoff2: That is a new one. But its just a $5 ebay special. I do need to get a real set up. Would like to get a pair of diagonal wheels so I can do diamonds.
But for now it will work.
Lathe is another ebay special. $100 Sherline. Does great for the guns and RC stuff. Plus a great way to learn.
Tritium tube you say, sounds interesting.

Did the math on the site. If I do 6 clicks per one full turn it works out to 1MOA.
Pete

Moab Austin

10-09-2005, 08:37 PM

usmcdoc14

10-09-2005, 08:49 PM

ok a couple questions for the dummy here.

whats an ffl consist of?
once you get one do you have to renew it or get a new one every ___?
if you build one of these legal guns can you sell it if you have to?
how do you register it, since you built it in your garage, where is the serial #

get an FFL : call your local BATF, get forms, fill out forms, pay $200wait.....wait some more.....maybe get approved :D

selling a AK WITH a registered reciever (ie: serial number)
sell like any other rifle.

selling an AK without a serial number (make from a flat or your own reciever)
CAN NOT BE SOLD !!!!!!

aloharover

10-09-2005, 08:54 PM

if you build one of these legal guns can you sell it if you have to?
how do you register it, since you built it in your garage, where is the serial #

If you buy a 100% complete receiver, then you must purchase it through a licensed dealer, someone that holds a current FFL. Since the receiver has the # on it, thats the # for the entire weapon. And as such you can sell it but you need to check your local laws.

If you do your build from an uncomplete receiver, ie a flat you bend yourself, there is no number on it and you don't need to deal with an FFL for any of the parts. It is still a perfectly legal weapon. But you might run into issues if you start building weapons and selling them with out getting a manufactures license and paying the tax on the weapons. Just one I wouldn't worry about it, you can sell it. But don't start making one a month and trying to sell them unless you want to spend time in fed lockup.

Moab Austin

10-09-2005, 08:54 PM

get an FFL : call your local BATF, get forms, fill out forms, pay $200wait.....wait some more.....maybe get approved :D

selling a AK WITH a registered reciever (ie: serial number)
sell like any other rifle.

selling an AK without a serial number (make from a flat or your own reciever)
CAN NOT BE SOLD !!!!!!

ok whats BATF
buerue of ATF?
cna you re-register a gun, like building a vehicle from the junkyard?

usmcdoc14

10-09-2005, 09:04 PM

ok whats BATF
buerue of ATF?
cna you re-register a gun, like building a vehicle from the junkyard?

yes B of ATF.

if it has no serial number and you want it to have a serial number you must get the appropriate tax stamp to become a manufacturer of that particular weapon (firearm manufacturer, any other weapon manufacturer (short barreled weapons) or full auto manufacturer )

Bill Plein

10-09-2005, 09:08 PM

All you gun nuts should also be checking out one of my websites, and feel free to contribute tutorials such as this one there too:

http://perfectunion.com

Bill4rest

10-10-2005, 02:11 PM

usmcdoc14

10-10-2005, 03:07 PM

Doc, since I'm an AK newbie what are the "better mags"? I ordered my kit, but since I live where I live they had to keep the mag. Is a Mag necessary to make the folding Receivers?

We need a newbie step by step guide:flipoff2:

yes you WILL NEED A MAG !!!! thats how you determine the front trunnion location. too far out and the mag will wobble/fall out. too close and it wont fit.
the best magazines are the FORIENG MADE plastic mags (Bulgarian waffle, Finnish waffle, Finnish valmet, etc) the U.S. made plastic ones (US Mag) suck balls
Those ones will fit most anything PERFECT !!

now any of the steel ones will work but they may require fitting. Fitting means sanding off some of the "duckbill" that sticks out of the mag. always adjust the magazine NEVER the magazine catch on the rifle.

Bill4rest

10-10-2005, 03:50 PM

yes you WILL NEED A MAG !!!! thats how you determine the front trunnion location. too far out and the mag will wobble/fall out. too close and it wont fit.
the best magazines are the FORIENG MADE plastic mags (Bulgarian waffle, Finnish waffle, Finnish valmet, etc) the U.S. made plastic ones (US Mag) suck balls
Those ones will fit most anything PERFECT !!

now any of the steel ones will work but they may require fitting. Fitting means sanding off some of the "duckbill" that sticks out of the mag. always adjust the magazine NEVER the magazine catch on the rifle.

Crap, well I guess I'll have to wait till I'm in WA state:(

zukota

10-16-2005, 06:36 AM

usmcdoc14

10-16-2005, 12:25 PM

Hey Doc -

picked up Polish underfoder at the show yesterday... knowing it's a little more work to do all the rear holes. - have you heard anything about these FFL Underfolder receivers (http://nodakspud.com/page2.htm)

still planning on a OOR, but I thought this 'might' save me some :mad3: on my first build.

EDIT: guess these are called 'dci' only a few reviews (http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=64&t=75948), but I think I may try it.

well those receivers are for Yugoslavian underfolders. note the "bulge" at the top of the front trunnion. if your front trunnion is flat it will NOT work.

aso those are some HUGE magwell dimples :laughing:

zukota

10-16-2005, 03:09 PM

well those receivers are for Yugoslavian underfolders. note the "bulge" at the top of the front trunnion. if your front trunnion is flat it will NOT work.

aso those are some HUGE magwell dimples :laughing:

I knew it was too good to be true :shaking:

Any input on Ohio vs. Global trades (1.0mm) Thanks.

usmcdoc14

10-16-2005, 03:32 PM

I knew it was too good to be true :shaking:

Any input on Ohio vs. Global trades (1.0mm) Thanks.

My AMD is built on an Ohio. only problem isthe safty lever hole is around 1/8in too high so you have to notch the "inside" lever to get it to engage on the FCG correctly. not hard, but a note.

never tried global trades 1.0 or 1.3 (the thick one that requires milling of the trunnion)

The other ones i have are JOKEN and they rock fully. other than the slight fitting needed in the magazine well (piece of metal i think was overlooked in the design) they were the best i used.

animator

10-16-2005, 03:46 PM

The other ones i have are JOKEN and they rock fully. other than the slight fitting needed in the magazine well (piece of metal i think was overlooked in the design) they were the best i used.

Really?

So does this mean JoeKen has turned around as far as customer service and quality control goes? I've read dozens of horror stories from people doing buisiness with JoeKen, as well as FFL Dealers having problems with them too. I haven't have any personal experiences with them, but was just curious....

usmcdoc14

10-16-2005, 03:57 PM

Really?

So does this mean JoeKen has turned around as far as customer service and quality control goes? I've read dozens of horror stories from people doing buisiness with JoeKen, as well as FFL Dealers having problems with them too. I haven't have any personal experiences with them, but was just curious....

shipping was the only suck i had. just make sure you ask "are they in stock? are you shipping them today?"
I ordered 4 at a time and they had 3 in stock but never let me know that I was waiting on one.

quality was good. receivers were square and strait. only problem was the piece of metal sticking out to far near the magwell dimple, but this was on ALL the gen2.
other "problems" (i dont see them as one) the FCG holes need the flash removed a little and the ejector needs to be fitted to your specific weapon

animator

10-16-2005, 04:35 PM

shipping was the only suck i had. just make sure you ask "are they in stock? are you shipping them today?"
I ordered 4 at a time and they had 3 in stock but never let me know that I was waiting on one.

quality was good. receivers were square and strait. only problem was the piece of metal sticking out to far near the magwell dimple, but this was on ALL the gen2.
other "problems" (i dont see them as one) the FCG holes need the flash removed a little and the ejector needs to be fitted to your specific weapon

Most of the stories I've read involved shipping issues, or shipping rifles that were junk/poor quality etc. I hadn't heard anything regarding just their receivers. Glad you're having a somewhat good experience with them...

aloharover

10-23-2005, 08:14 AM

Well I have totally disassembled the first kit. I pressed out the barrel and removed the front sight, gas block, and rear sight from the barrel.
The wood on this kit is in very nice condition so I am still not sure how I want to finish the rifle. Thinking about polishing all of the metal and blueing and do a good job on the wood finish so I end up with a 'display' quality weapon.

Regarding the front trunnion and a screw build. I was amazed at how thin the metal is. it doesn't look like you would get more then 1.5 complete threads in the trunion.
I know from reading all the various build sites that tons of folks are doing screw builds with out any problems, but still seems like it's too thin.

Later
Pete

fullygruntled

10-24-2005, 07:21 AM

Yeah I picked up a Tapco reciever.
I also found an online metal supplier that sells 6"x12" sheets of the exact same alloy and thickness as the Tapco flat for 1$.
Thinking about ordering some and trying out my hand at making the entire receiver myself.

Hm. Sounds.... illegal.

usmcdoc14

10-24-2005, 09:15 AM

Hm. Sounds.... illegal.

thats where you are WRONG !!!!!

read this thread from the begining and come back when you are done :flipoff2:

aloharover

11-03-2005, 09:55 AM

OK, the box full of 4130 plates showed up yesterday. Cleaned one off and blued it. Layed out all of the holes and openening. Holes have been drilled.
Will use a small cut off and Dremel tonight and do the mag and trigger opening.
I have the steel for my bending jig, but have not put it together yet.
Also got the stuff so I can make some press plates to form the mag dimples. Hopefully can get the jigs made upthis weekend and actually bend up a receiver.
Then I can assemble a weapon and perform a function check to ensure that all the measurements I am using are correct.
If everything works out I plan on taking a fresh plate and after doing the layout only drill small 1/8" holes. This will then be the master plate and I will use an auto center punch to layout all the remaining plates.

Just to clarify as long as I do not make a full auto or short barreled rifle I am allowed, by law, to make the entire rifle myself at home in the garage with out paying taxes, fees, or registering anything.

Thinking about getting a larger lathe. The Ak family of barrels are very basic. Can get some 7.62 rifled blanks and then a chamber reamer. Make the profile for any version I want then (PKM, SVD, etc). Just need to make up gas tubes and gas pistons to match the length.
With the upcoming import barrel ban I think we will see a great market for AK barrells. Figure 50$ profit per barrel, sell 40 of em and will pay for the Lathe. After that its all profit. hmmmm.

Pete

indulf

11-03-2005, 10:02 AM

pardon my ignorance.

do you need an FFL to sell this stuff to others??

SeaBass44

11-03-2005, 10:35 AM

Just to clarify as long as I do not make a full auto or short barreled rifle I am allowed, by law, to make the entire rifle myself at home in the garage with out paying taxes, fees, or registering anything.

Pete
Uh...NO:rasta:

just like building your own car
you have to regester the car, get a tag ect;)

SeaBass44

11-03-2005, 10:36 AM

pardon my ignorance.

do you need an FFL to sell this stuff to others??

not to sell parts or kits
FFL needed for completed receivers

aloharover

11-03-2005, 03:22 PM

Uh...NO:rasta:

just like building your own car
you have to regester the car, get a tag ect;)

In some states maybe. I know that in Hawai'i you had to register every firearm in your possession with the county sheriff. Not the case in ME, WA or here in CO.
And there isn't any Federal requirement to register the weapon with BATF.
Remember I am NOT making a weapon to sell. It's for my own use. If I wanted to begin buying kits, make my own receivers and then build and sell complete weapons then I would need to get a manufacturers license.
At this point and time I don't see going that far.
But with a good lathe I could begine making barrels. Also thinking about supressors (and yes need to be a register manufacturer for those).

As for selling stuff, all parts except the receiver are just that, parts. A fully assembled receiver is considered a fire arm. If I start bending up pieces of sheet steel, but don't drill all the holes then its considered an 80% and I could sell that.
So my thought of making AK barrels wouldn't require any BATF type agreements or license or fees. Just have to worry about local sales tax like any other bussiness.

SeaBass44

11-03-2005, 07:00 PM

Not the case in ME, WA or here in CO.
And there isn't any Federal requirement to register the weapon with BATF.
.

Do you have a link to the DOJ site where it says that?
I thought I had a good understanding of the laws in this area, interesting, Hmmmm, I would like to see that in print on the gov site;)

aloharover

11-03-2005, 09:27 PM

Do you have a link to the DOJ site where it says that?
I thought I had a good understanding of the laws in this area, interesting, Hmmmm, I would like to see that in print on the gov site;)

DOJ no, ATF yes.

http://www.atf.gov/firearms/faq/faq2.htm#a7

With certain exceptions a firearm may be made by a nonlicensee provided it is not for sale and the maker is not prohibited from possessing firearms.
However, a person is prohibited from making a semiautomatic assault weapon or assembling a nonsporting semiautomatic rifle or nonsporting shotgun from
imported parts. In addition, the making of an NFA firearm requires a tax payment and approval by ATF. An application to make a machinegun will not be
approved unless documentation is submitted showing that the firearm is being made for a federal or state agency. [18 U. S. C. 922( o), (r), (v), and 923, 27 CFR 178.39, 178.40, 178.41 and 179.105]

Bill Plein

11-03-2005, 09:48 PM

However, a person is prohibited from making a semiautomatic assault weapon

Which means you still can only legally create the modern "neutered" non-assault weapon, correct?

How does the sunset of the most recent ban affect this law? If this law still stands, you could BUY an assault weapon (grr, I hate that term), but you couldn't BUILD one.

Doesn't make sense, but few modern ATF laws do. :(

Bill Plein

11-03-2005, 09:49 PM

Forgot to add that in CA we are unaffected by the sunset of the most recent federal ban, as CA has stricter laws.

aloharover

11-03-2005, 10:02 PM

Which means you still can only legally create the modern "neutered" non-assault weapon, correct?

How does the sunset of the most recent ban affect this law? If this law still stands, you could BUY an assault weapon (grr, I hate that term), but you couldn't BUILD one.

Doesn't make sense, but few modern ATF laws do. :(

The important thing here is "imported parts".
This law is not related to the now defunct AWB. It instead addresses the ban on importing foriegn made assault weapons. This gets into the whole 10 part limit. A different section of the law(922(R)) goes into the whole definition of an imported weapon and how it must have less then 10 imported parts from a list in the regulation. If the weapon has more of those parts then its considered imported and it's illegle.

"Sec. 178.39 Assembly of semiautomatic rifles or shotguns.

(a) No person shall assemble a semiautomatic rifle or any shotgun using more than 10 of the imported parts listed in paragraph (c) of this section if the assembled firearm is prohibited from importation under section 925(d)(3) as not being particularly suitable for or readily adaptable to sporting purposes.

(b) The provisions of this section shall not apply to:
(1) The assembly of such rifle or shotgun for sale or distribution by a licensed manufacturer to the United States or any department or agency thereof or to any State or any department, agency, or political subdivision thereof; or
(2) The assembly of such rifle or shotgun for the purposes of testing or experimentation authorized by the Director under the provisions of Sec. 178.151; or
(3) The repair of any rifle or shotgun which had been imported into or assembled in the United States prior to November 30, 1990, or the replacement of any part of such firearm.

(c) For purposes of this section, the term imported parts are:

(1) Frames, receivers, receiver castings, forgings or stampings
(2) Barrels
(3) Barrel extensions (n/a for AK)
(4) Mounting blocks (trunions)
(5) Muzzle attachments
(6) Bolts
(7) Bolt carriers
(8 ) Operating rods(n/a for AK)
(9) Gas pistons
(10) Trigger housings(n/a for AK)
(11) Triggers
(12) Hammers
(13) Sears(n/a for AK)
(14) Disconnectors
(15) Buttstocks
(16) Pistol grips
(17) Forearms, handguards
(18 ) Magazine bodies
(19) Followers
(20) Floorplates
"

The (n/a for AK) I added,as these parts are not on a foreign built AK. So that means there are 16 parts in an AK that are on this list. Only 10 of them can be imported the rest must be US made. Note that 3 of these parts are the Magazine. So if you use US made mags you only need to replace 3 other parts.

You will always be using a US receiver, either bought through an FFL or home made. Trigger, hammer, and Disconnector are available US made and commonly reffered to as the Fire Control Group FCG.
People using foriegn mags will usually replace the gas piston and pistol grip so they have 6 US parts ten foreign.
Also the trunnion is just the front one, the one that the barrel attaches to. The rear trunnion does not count. nor gas blocks and site housings.

Interesting thing I found out is that if the weapon does not have a butt stock and it's barrel is less then 16" long then its considered a pistol, not an assault rifle and there fore the 10 parts rule doesn't apply.
Put a butt stock on but keep the short baarrel and its considered a Short Barreled Rifle (SBR) which you do need to apply to the ATF for permission to build and pay the tax on.

As mentioned everythingI am discussing is Fed law. Each state may also have laws applicable to home made weapons.
In CA I believe you can build a model 1911 pistol, as long as the mag capacity is below the standard no problem at all. Same goes for a single shot or bolt rifle.
Pete

TexasBlake

11-21-2005, 10:43 PM

I just took the plunge. Bought a matched Romanian for the chrome. Havn't decided on a receiver yet, but it will be a 100% kind. I'm also going to get rid of the nasty donkey dick front grip. Probably gonna try going back to the old carpetry days and just lobbing it off and make it a little kustom.

Been doing some research, and looked at a few builds. I'm about 75% confident I can do it. I think I will get the other 25% when I can see the parts in person, cause some of the pics are hard to follow when you've never seen an AK before.

http://www.wfo-offroad.com/albums/randomshit/pix416509656.jpg

TheRipper

11-21-2005, 11:00 PM

Another place to get the kit's
http://www.floridagunworks.com/
http://copesdist.com/ak47.htm

AK reciever kit's.
http://www.ar15plus.com/noc/shop/products_category.asp?CategoryID=35

Here is the stock adapter on a different site just cost more.
http://copesdist.com/ak47.htm
http://copesdist.com/images/AKStockAdapter.jpg
http://copesdist.com/images/AKARStockCoversion.gif

Here is another stock they have that just goes on it looks like.
http://copesdist.com/images/AKARStockadapter.jpg

usmcdoc14

11-22-2005, 05:29 AM

Blake: just make sure to go get your US made parts now :D I have 3 or 4 romy kits sitting in the living room that i will get around to building.

TheRipper: best kits out are from "Bocefus" on www.falfiles.com or www.gunsnet.net and 80% of the time www.centerfiresystems.com

Tapco's stocks can bring the suck, and that stock adapter is better than the tapco ones but not by much :flipoff2: Did you see my thread on how to correctly attach an AR stock to an AK ? :laughing:

aloharover

11-26-2005, 04:41 PM

Well for the first time since Christina was born I finally got some time to get back into the shop.
I completed the bending jig.
Completed the drill jig.
Started working on the mag dimple jig. Plan is for two 1/2" thick plates. One will have two wells, other will have two bumps. Place a piece of .060 inbetween and then press with the 12ton. I am going to try and get the lip for the front of the mag well lip bend done also.

All three jigs make use of 1/8" locating pins. The reciever flat has one hole 1" from one end and another hole .75" from the other end. Drill these two holes in the blank sheet. Then place in the drill jig, and drill a dozen or so 1/8" holes. These are the locaters for the actual reciever holes. So after the centers are drilled I can go back and hit each one with the actual size needed.
trim flat to size. Cut out the mag and trigger openings. then put in the dimple jig and press.
Final step will be to place in the bending jig.

presto, plain flat sheet metal to 100% receiver in a few simple steps.
Will add some photos later.

Pete

usmcdoc14

11-26-2005, 04:46 PM

Lets start with this first:

They do make Tritium rear sites for AK's ..hell they make fully adjustable tritium peep sites for AK's

If you make them your own fawking self :flipoff2:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=191928&stc=1
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=191927&stc=1
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=191929&stc=1

These started as russian (or some other country) fully adjustable sites. I then filed a half circle exactly where the old site line was and welded a disk cut from some round stock and drilled a hole in the middle. I then chamfered the hole, deburred and was done :D

aloharover

11-26-2005, 05:13 PM

The male part of the bending jig with one side plate removed.
The smaller holes on the top of the center piece will line up with the locating holes in the flat. The other four holes are threaded. A piece of flat gets bolted down here, sandwiching the flat.
The angled cut on the right end is for the mag well lip.
The side plates have been recessed for the mag dimples.

aloharover

11-26-2005, 05:14 PM

Female bending jig

aloharover

11-26-2005, 05:15 PM

Drill jig. The flats are 12" long. After drilling the two locating holes and placing in the jig, as well as providing layout for all the holes I trim the flat flush with the end of the jig to bring it to its final length of 10.25"

aloharover

11-26-2005, 05:16 PM

First flat after getting fullsize drilled and doing the cut outs. just the need the mag dimples and cut to size. then it can get bent.

aloharover

11-26-2005, 05:24 PM

My homemade flat next to a store bought one.

usmcdoc14

11-26-2005, 06:42 PM

putting an AR/M-16 stock on an AK.. correctly :flipoff2:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
This is what i did with the wonderful piece of steel MAD MAC made for me.(thank you again)

I went and drilled a hole threw the ACE stocks locking ring and countersunk it and drilled/tapped a hole in the "trunnion" for extra strength and also when all the screws are tightened it DOES NOT MOVE
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=216757&stc=1&d=1133055448
located the comb i wanted and how much "trunnion" i wanted sticking out. I went and notched it to fit the rear trunnion to fit.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=216758&stc=1&d=1133055448
welded her up and ground smooth. I also added some triangulation between the "trunnions" for added oomf. i also drilled it all out to remove any unneeded steel and loose a bunch of wieght(pics not shown,i was lazy)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=216759&stc=1&d=1133055448
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=216760&stc=1&d=1133055448
There was a gap between the dust cover and the trunnion so i added steel to fil the area. the finished "extension" is solid steel.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=216761&stc=1&d=1133055448

usmcdoc14

11-26-2005, 06:52 PM

I flushed it up and gapped it. Then i just made it blend in real nice.you can also see the starting hole for a new 3rd screw for the rear trunnion. I figured i should make it skull bashing strong :flipoff2:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=216762&stc=1&d=1133055881
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=216763&stc=1&d=1133055881
AAAAAND the finished product :evil:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=216766&stc=1&d=1133056023

There is no gap in between on the finished stock. I ground the little stub flat.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=216764&stc=1&d=1133055881
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=216765&stc=1&d=1133055881

usmcdoc14

11-26-2005, 06:53 PM

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=216767&stc=1&d=1133056360
:D
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=216768&stc=1&d=1133056360

aloharover

11-26-2005, 07:49 PM

usmcdoc14

11-26-2005, 08:27 PM

Doc

:eek:

Holy crap dude that is awsome. thats the exact butstock I am thinking of for my FAK-47.
I was thinking about getting my own tap for the AR gas tube (80$ from Mcmaster-carr). I have a hunk of 1.25x3.x12 and can make up my own rear trunions.
Hadn't thought about welding the stock one to an adaper.
How much was the block adapter piece?
Damn, that is sweet.

contact Mad Mac on the board, he made it for me. actualy any decent machine shop can single point it for you less than the price of that tap (fuckin odd ass size)
here is the rough drawing of the block
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=203067&stc=1&d=1125194125
The only difference i made was that tapped hole. I actualy drilled and countersunk the ACE locking thing to make it so the stock will not unscrew unless I actualy loosen the locking ring. That and it adds some serious strength ...

you know for "door bashing" and...umm stuff :evil:

surpip

11-26-2005, 08:39 PM

you use rustolum rattle can and than bake it?
how tough is it?

usmcdoc14

11-26-2005, 08:45 PM

you use rustolum rattle can and than bake it?
how tough is it?

quite.

its rustolium textured in black (they also make tan and green) baked at 350* ish for an hour. Nothing realt takes it off. it will scratch if you try but fuck i can touch it up in a sec :laughing:

aloharover: get your stock off ebay. you can get it for $25-$50 less

surpip

11-26-2005, 10:38 PM

wait if you build your own reciver, there is no numbers, so there is no way to track the gun right?
so who cares how many forgin parts you use?

aloharover

11-26-2005, 11:05 PM

wait if you build your own reciver, there is no numbers, so there is no way to track the gun right?
so who cares how many forgin parts you use?

If it ever gets looked at for any reason at all and the person looking knows what he sees, you are talking a federal felony. Never vote again. Never own a gun again. For me, would also mean I loose my job.

it could be as simple as you are on your way home from the range. Drunk driver t-bones your car, you're off to the hospital. Responding officer sees the weapon in the car, takes a closer look. end of story.

aloharover

11-27-2005, 07:57 PM

OK here is the final drill plate. Measured and marked the location of the mag dimples. Welded some pieces of 1/4" rod onto the top of the plate. Then shaped it some with the dremel.
The 5/16 hole on the upper left is for the selector switch dimple.

aloharover

11-27-2005, 07:58 PM

The lower half of the drill plate then had dips routed out with the dremel.
So measure out the two locating holes on a piece of 6x12x.060 4130 plate. Dril said holes.
Mount in drilling jig.
Drill a billion holes.
Use a 1/4" punch and place the selector divot.
Lift up the top plate, flip it over and place it back on the guide pins.
Place in press and apply pressure.
Remove from press and trim blank to length.
Remove flat from jig and cut sides.
Now ready to get bent.

aloharover

11-27-2005, 08:00 PM

Here is the store bought plate next to my home made one. Just need to finish cutting it to size.

aloharover

11-27-2005, 08:02 PM

Loading the flat into the bending jig.

aloharover

11-27-2005, 08:03 PM

Pressing completed. Now bending over the rails. White stuff is grease to help with the press.

aloharover

11-27-2005, 08:05 PM

The final receiver.

animator

11-27-2005, 08:18 PM

The final receiver.

Why bend before welding in the rails?? To me it just seem like it'd be easier to weld up the rails before bending everything. I haven't done much reading on the actual process yet, but I should have some bending tools available to use before the end of the year, with the actual builds starting early next year.

How do you plan on welding the rails? Two options I've considered is using small spot welds every few cm on the underside of each rail, or drilling small holes in the receiver and using plug welds to fill in the holes.

mondtster

11-27-2005, 08:46 PM

usmcdoc14

11-27-2005, 08:54 PM

I've got an idea I was thinking of trying but would like to run it by some of you guys first...

Has anybody tried using some of Brownell's silver solder to solder the front trunion in place in addition to riveting or screwing it in? Other than the fact that it would basically be impossible to separate from the receiver again would there be any downfalls that I'm not thinking of?

It would be redundant :flipoff2: That and that trunnion is going to soak so much heat while you are trying to solder it that it will be a pain in the ass because you will probably warp the receiver while doing it.

but it could be done.

I actualy smear JB weld between mine when i make them.

mondtster

11-27-2005, 09:07 PM

It would be redundant :flipoff2: That and that trunnion is going to soak so much heat while you are trying to solder it that it will be a pain in the ass because you will probably warp the receiver while doing it.

but it could be done.

I actualy smear JB weld between mine when i make them.

It was just an idea. My main concern with trying it was just as you described, having the thing soak up so much heat that something gets warped. I may do the JB weld though just as an added precaution against having the trunions loosen up on me.

animator

11-27-2005, 09:10 PM

I am sure its been done.
I dont know about the top rail though. The two main bends to make the receiver u-shaped should be easy.
But I dont know how you would do the last two bends with the little 1/4" lip.
Maybe just clamp a piece of 1/2" stock inside the U after doing the main bends and then hammer over the rail.

Pete

My first thought would be to cut the flat a bit larger in that area, bend, then trim down to the correct size.

Of course that's an extra step that's not necessary if using the right tools.

animator

11-27-2005, 09:11 PM

I actualy smear JB weld between mine when i make them.

Mine's gonna be a rivet build :D

aloharover

11-28-2005, 12:25 AM

My first thought would be to cut the flat a bit larger in that area, bend, then trim down to the correct size.

Of course that's an extra step that's not necessary if using the right tools.

That could work. Even with a purchased, sized, drilled flat you still trim the rail. So not really extra work.

If you have access to a sheet metal brake I say go for it. The 6x12 sheet metal blanks I got were 3$ each. Not like testing the brake method is going to send someone to the poorhouse. :D

Pete

usmcdoc14

12-02-2005, 07:39 AM

This is RETARDEDLY simple to do and can improve the accuracy of a
barrel quite a bit. This is also if you cut down a barrel to carbine length (this is done on a FAL barrel as an example)

First the shit you will need:
crown cutter (i got mine from www.brownells.com it is the 11* target crown cutter. 11* is a great crown as it performs well and the
countersink protects the crown)
guide dowel to fit the caliber you are doing (once again, brownells. .30
cal guide for AK/SKS/FAL )
handle of some sort for it (i used a 1/4 all thread nut and a old die.
or you can spend the cash on a handle. I don't recommend the drill bit
one as you want to take your time)
0000 steel wool
brass screw or brass ball bearing a little bigger than the cal. you are
doing a 1/4 screw is perfect for .308/7.62
valve lapping compound
cutting oil
hacksaw with a new blade

first i saw my crown was SHOT :eek: and also noticed that the barrel
was corroded at the ends of the lands
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=217522&d=1133561906
so i decided to cut it down to a 17.5 barrel because i should not have
to open the gas port (you may/may not need to open the gas port on any
gas operated weapon. the shorter barrel produces less pressure, hence
less to push the action back)
mark it square, i used an old pipe cutter to score it. plug the barrel
with a patch a distance past where you are cutting to keep shavings
out.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=217523&d=1133561906
HACK SAW MOTHER FUCKER !!! :flipoff2:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=217524&d=1133561906
Now go and insert the crowning tool with guide dowel into the barrel.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=217525&d=1133561906
USE LOTS OF OIL AT ALL TIMES AND CLEAR THE CHIPS

Apply good pressure and turn away. I rotate the barrel to a different
position every time i clear chips and re-oil so i don't get a low spot
from my hand pressure. Keep cutting until you have cut the ENTIRE barrel
face (this does not apply to Bull or target barrels as they may be
wider than your cutter. in that case stop when you get the recess you want) Once you do that
keep decreasing your pressure and keep cutting, keep getting lighter and
lighter till only the weight of the tool is on it. This give a nice
fine finish.

remove the tool and clean away any shavings.
Now take the steel wool and use it to get rid of the sharp edge on the
OUTSIDE of the barrel. The pic is over exaggerated i actualy only
used a small piece and rotated it around the edge with my thumb and fore
finger.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=217526&d=1133561906

usmcdoc14

12-02-2005, 03:20 PM

hopefully the board wont crash this time

Is the images in the above post working now?

usmcdoc14

12-02-2005, 03:30 PM

next you find a way to hold your brass screw. I used a tap holder. If you are using a brass ball just skip to the next.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=217527&stc=1&d=1133562149
Dip it in your lapping compound and lap away ! :flipoff2:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=217528&stc=1&d=1133562149

just twist it back and forth. I once again changed barrel position and also the angle i was hitting at to make sure i did not get a low spot. Use a medium pressure, its better to take your time and do it right instead of too much.

Check your progress and stop when you get a nice hairline at the grooves (lands are the high spots of the rifling, grooves the bottom) you can just see it in the next pic.

Push out your plug/patch from the breech (dont push the lapping compound INTO the barrel :shaking: ) and CLEAN THE SHIT OUT OF YOUR BARREL !!!!!

and TAADAAAAA! :D
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=217529&stc=1&d=1133562149

you now have a barrel with a nice new 11 degree target crown :flipoff2: I used a cold blue to protect it but it an be left bare as long as you oil it and remember its bare metal.

usmcdoc14

12-02-2005, 05:59 PM

finished and blued :flipoff2: sorry was making some money on some parts :D

The trick to no streaks is to DEGREASE the fuck out of it with brake cleaner, buff lightly with 0000 steel wool and wipe the dust off with a clean dry rag.

morpheus

12-03-2005, 07:12 PM

hey doc, do you have any more pics of one's that you've painted with that crinkle paint ? I think I'm going to paint some parts of mine that khaki color krinkle ...

usmcdoc14

12-03-2005, 07:25 PM

hey doc, do you have any more pics of one's that you've painted with that crinkle paint ? I think I'm going to paint some parts of mine that khaki color krinkle ...

actualy ALL of them have been finished in it. Just to make sure we are talking about the same thing it is "Rustolium Textured". Rustolium also makes it in tan and moss green (the green is actualy in the "decorator" box but its the same shit)

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/2880/dsc00119kv.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/3817/dsc00122na.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/4596/dsc00135wf.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/7735/dsc00140sa.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/5856/dsc00152kq.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

basketcasejeep

12-03-2005, 08:13 PM

usmcdoc14

12-03-2005, 08:27 PM

Doc, does it say anything on the can about baking? Is that something you just decided to do, and found it worked?

Do you coat the entire parts, or just the outer pieces? I'm just wondering how tight the fitup would be if everything(save action and barrel), inside and out, is painted? Those screws looked painted as well.

I'm thinking about getting the Romanian one, painting metal parts with the Rustoleum texture, and the furniture with this:
http://www.zolatoneaim.com/inter_1.html
http://www.zolatoneaim.com/images/77-84.jpg

Maybe its just the ghetto in me... :grinpimp:
I like the Butler Creek folding stocks for 10/22's and Mini-14/30. I wonder how hard it would be to adapt the folder portion onto an AK. I haven't seen this type stock made for the AK. :confused:

Oh, and Doc, did you test fire any at the range today? I think I remember reading that you were going to test fire a recent build today... I could be wrong, I've spent 12+hours reading on these since last night... :D

in order :flipoff2
I learned that baking on regular spray painted shit on metal will bond it a LOT better. Then i saw some guys on another board were doing it with the textured. I did test chunks of steel and subjected them to different torture/chemicals and was happy so i used it :D

Entire parts, assembled gun. minus bolt/bolt carrier, trigger shit, springs, gas piston. Light coat inside, outside i control the texture till it looks like what i want. what cant get removed stays together and what comes off is sprayed separately. I let it dry and then bake in the oven at 350-400 for an hour and turn off the oven. Remove when cool (this also anneals the parts good too)

Its the ghetto in you :flipoff2:

show me a pic of the stock and i will find you the AK version or how to adapt it :D

Yes, the range was closed today and i did not know. Tomorrow at 10am unless i have to be at the airport i will be shootin' :evil:

basketcasejeep

12-03-2005, 08:49 PM

Ok, that makes sense about the coating. It definitely looks better than the factory blueing that comes on most of these things. The crappy looking wood stocks and ugly blueing is a lot of what has turned me off to these rifles before... I actually prefer stainless... but a good paint job will do for a beater. :D

Here's an example of the 10/22 stock:
http://www.gunaccessories.com/ButlerCreek/Folding.asp

A mini-14 stock on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/BUTLER-CREEK-STAINLESS-FOLDING-STOCK-FOR-RUGER-MINI-14_W0QQitemZ7200757998QQcategoryZ36258QQssPageName ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Also another for the 870 shotgun here:
http://www.combatstocks.com/Butler_Creek_Steel_Folding_Stock_for_the_Remington _870.cfm

I'll get a chance to look at some both on and off the rifle tomorrow, I'll see if it has to be cut off or can be otherwise detached. They feel very solid, and collapse tighter than the AR stock you used. Yours is practical for a better cheek weld, but the folder would take less room in the truck... and is cheaper. :D

I read your description on how to heat treat the receiver earlier. It makes sense. I read another one on one of the sites mentioned here, and it claimed to heat the treated areas to red hot and quench, twice. Then, heat to red again and allow to cool. IIRC from welding school this actually softened the metal. Heating to 500 like you wrote would treat it to a good hardness. Baking to 400 would be on the verge of hardening it to the max. Somewhere in the 400-420 range is where the transition begins. If its bare shiny metal, you can see it form a straw color. Blue/Purple form in the 500-600 degree range... At least, thats how I remember it. :D I definitely neeed to brush up on this. :laughing:

usmcdoc14

12-03-2005, 09:00 PM

http://www.aceltdusa.com/images04/ms/MS1%20(AKFX_AK)_med.jpg

hows that one ?

thats from www.aceltdusa.com (same maker as my AR stock) they sell folding kits for it and a specialty adapter that you cut the back of the tang off and just bolt the stock on

http://www.aceltdusa.com/images04/AK/AKRBCwbg_292w.jpg

basketcasejeep

12-03-2005, 10:12 PM

This is a good idea for a cheek rest. :D

http://www.aceltdusa.com/images04/gallery/ARFXParaWrap1-602w.jpg

AMD-65:
http://www.aceltdusa.com/images04/Customer/mvc-373f2_615w.jpg

jstarnes

12-04-2005, 07:46 PM

I have read all of Doc's posts and I feel this would be a great addition to them http://gunsgutsandgod.com/SBS%20tutorial.htm

it answered a bunch of questions I had after reading through this thread

morpheus

12-05-2005, 08:24 PM

that's a good link, thanks jstarnes ...

hey doc, when I asked a couple of days ago for more painted pics I meant to specify ones that were any other color than the black ones you already posted. Where did you get the pieces in this pic you posted. I've searched a fair bit and can't find ones like that ... at least in the pics of the parts that places say they sell:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=171858&stc=1

EDIT: Just found the pistol grip piece. I saw one you guys reference a SAW and that's what the grip piece is from a SAW.

usmcdoc14

12-05-2005, 08:42 PM

www.tapco.com makes them hey are styled after the M249 SAW

morpheus

12-07-2005, 09:05 PM

yes you WILL NEED A MAG !!!! thats how you determine the front trunnion location. too far out and the mag will wobble/fall out. too close and it wont fit.
the best magazines are the FORIENG MADE plastic mags (Bulgarian waffle, Finnish waffle, Finnish valmet, etc) the U.S. made plastic ones (US Mag) suck balls
Those ones will fit most anything PERFECT !!

now any of the steel ones will work but they may require fitting. Fitting means sanding off some of the "duckbill" that sticks out of the mag. always adjust the magazine NEVER the magazine catch on the rifle.

hey doc, will a steel mag work good enough to locate the front trunnion or do I need a good foreign plastic one for that ?

usmcdoc14

12-07-2005, 09:10 PM

hey doc, will a steel mag work good enough to locate the front trunnion or do I need a good foreign plastic one for that ?

works good enuf. just get it "snug". use a small "C" clamp to hold the front trunnion in place to test the mag fitment.

and when you do find mags that wont lock in grind a little from the "duckbil" on the mag NOT THE MAG LATCH ON THE RECIEVER !!! make the mags fit your AK not the other way :flipoff2:

Diesel Smoke

12-12-2005, 12:09 PM

usmcdoc14

12-12-2005, 12:24 PM

Doc,

When you bake stuff, do you use the oven in your kitchen, the same you cook with? I suspect you don't have any issue with fumes or any residual smells. I am going to be baking a finish onto some smaller parts and I have toyed with the idea of buying a small toaster over to use instead of the one in the kitchen. However if it's working find for your, the money could be better spent on more gun parts:D:D!

Yes i use the regular oven :flipoff2: as I can suspend the parts from the inside and nothing fawks up the finish. :D That and the heat is nice and even inside.

no issues with fumes when its done/finished, but it will put off a odor when baking. so no, my brownies dont taiste like Rustolium :laughing:

If you could find an old stove with shot top burners it will probly cost you less than the toaster oven (free on the side of the road) and you could also do home powdercoating in the garage to boot

basketcasejeep

12-13-2005, 04:08 PM

I think they may not have updated the site since the ban expired?

Maybe our resident gun law armchair experts :p will know whether guns built between 94 and 04 are still illegal to modify, and the ones built '05 and newer are exempt?

Edit, Doc you beat me to it. So does the ban still apply to guns built in those years or are they now exempt?

usmcdoc14

12-13-2005, 04:15 PM

Maybe our resident gun law armchair experts :p will know whether guns built between 94 and 04 are still illegal to modify, and the ones built '05 and newer are exempt?

Edit, Doc you beat me to it. So does the ban still apply to guns built in those years or are they now exempt?

nope, you can put evil black shit on your guns :D thread your barrels, throw away your thumbhole stocks, rape, pillage, plunder...

morpheus

12-13-2005, 04:26 PM

nope, you can put evil black shit on your guns :D thread your barrels, throw away your thumbhole stocks, rape, pillage, plunder...

Excellent ! :grinpimp: http://www.4x4spot.com/morpheus/images/sniper.gif

morpheus

12-15-2005, 07:52 PM

I see a few of these laser cut receivers for sale for fairly cheap $30 ... they don't have the magazine "bumps" in them though ... what's the word on them ?
http://www.4x4spot.com/morpheus/images/ak_laser.jpg

usmcdoc14

12-15-2005, 08:18 PM

Doc do you know if the underfolder "folder" will fit over that forgrip?
that I do not know :(

I see a few of these laser cut receivers for sale for fairly cheap $30 ... they don't have the magazine "bumps" in them though ... what's the word on them ?
http://www.4x4spot.com/morpheus/images/ak_laser.jpg

They work :D
its thin sheet so take your time welding, they require heat treating when done.

If you want the "bumps" for magazine stability just measure how high it needs to be from the reciever stub in your parts kit and plug weld a plate to the inside that matches that thickness :D

mudtoy67

12-22-2005, 11:13 AM

Doc, I've been reading this thread over and over and have figured out what to spend my Xmas money on.:evil:

I'm planning on picking up a Romanian parts kit from Gunbroker. I thought about going to the next gun show, but I can't wait. Got a few questions for ya though, if ya don't mind. I apologise if any of these have already been answered, I have ADD:laughing:

Is this the skull bashing collapsable stock I would need?
collapsible stock (http://www.floridagunworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FG&Product_Code=1403&Category_Code=AKA+AK+STOCKS)
Also does the mounting for it count as the rear trunnion......I.E. would this be two US parts?
But I'm also thinking....do I really need a collapsible stock like this? I like the fact that I could save a little room, but do these really collapse that far? It would save me a little money to just get a 4 piece set.
I thought about a folding stock but I'm not sure wether I like them or not.

I noticed in the rifles built on the first page you replaced the stock and hand grip (2parts), fire control (3 parts), and gas tube (1 parts) to make the 6 US parts you needed. But the reciever would count as a US made part wouldn't it? I'm going to get an unbent reciever to save a little money.

On the trigger group, do i need the single hook or double hook? I've noticed most of the time they are the same price. And is "G2" better than anyone else's US trigger groups?

So so far this is what I've got...

part........................cost...............US parts

romanian AK47.........$99.97
gunbroker.com

collapsible stock......$84.95..............2
fl gun works

pistol grip................~$20...............1

g2 trigger group.......$39.................3
tickbitesupply
--or akparts.com.......$37.95 *not listed as G2

Unbent reciever......$24.95..............1
akparts.com

Total...................~$270...............6

I plan on getting a front hand gaurd to match the stock/pistol grip when I get closer to completion, and a birdcage flash hider. And I didn't factor in the screws or other small supplies into the cost. Is there anything you can think of that I'm missing?

TIA for the help!:smokin:

Edit: I just saw the link to DPHarms above.....

They have a Ewbanks receiver that is already predrilled and folded for $50.....are these any good or should I stay with the unbent recievers?

TexasBlake

12-22-2005, 11:22 AM

Where did you get your parts kit ? I got mine from dpharms.com ... don't know enough to know if mine is Romanian like it said or not :confused:

What kind of receiver are you going to use ?

Romanians have chrome lined barrels, they are easy to tell because they have the hand grip on the front grip. I got mine on gunbroker for $105.

Havn't looked at what receiver I'm going to go with. Still researching.

usmcdoc14

12-22-2005, 11:31 AM

Doc, I've been reading this thread over and over and have figured out what to spend my Xmas money on.:evil:

I'm planning on picking up a Romanian parts kit from Gunbroker. I thought about going to the next gun show, but I can't wait. Got a few questions for ya though, if ya don't mind. I apologise if any of these have already been answered, I have ADD:laughing:
or from the for sale section of both gunsnet.net and falfiles.com screen name "bocefus" I believe he sells the ones with the red saten background on gunbroker as its the same images he uses
Is this the skull bashing collapsable stock I would need?
collapsible stock (http://www.floridagunworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FG&Product_Code=1403&Category_Code=AKA+AK+STOCKS)
nope, plastic adapter. you might as well get a T-6 stock from www.tapco.com as its one piece (plastic) or just get the plastic adapter itself and get a AR stock for WAY less from ebay. ACE stocks sells the diffrent metal adapters but get pricy. but worth it
Also does the mounting for it count as the rear trunnion......I.E. would this be two US parts?
no, only the stock. the rear trunnion is still used with that adapter
But I'm also thinking....do I really need a collapsible stock like this? I like the fact that I could save a little room, but do these really collapse that far? It would save me a little money to just get a 4 piece set.
they colasps a bit

I thought about a folding stock but I'm not sure wether I like them or not.

I noticed in the rifles built on the first page you replaced the stock and hand grip (2parts), fire control (3 parts), and gas tube (1 parts) to make the 6 US parts you needed. But the reciever would count as a US made part wouldn't it? I'm going to get an unbent reciever to save a little money.
yup US reciever counts as a part :D
On the trigger group, do i need the single hook or double hook? I've noticed most of the time they are the same price. And is "G2" better than anyone else's US trigger groups?
G2 work great. all my shit is single hook and i see nothing wrong

So so far this is what I've got...

part........................cost...............US parts

romanian AK47.........$99.97
gunbroker.com

collapsible stock......$84.95..............2
fl gun works

pistol grip................~$20...............1

g2 trigger group.......$39.................3
tickbitesupply
--or akparts.com.......$37.95 *not listed as G2

Unbent reciever......$24.95..............1
akparts.com

Total...................~$270...............6

I plan on getting a front hand gaurd to match the stock/pistol grip when I get closer to completion, and a birdcage flash hider. And I didn't factor in the screws or other small supplies into the cost. Is there anything you can think of that I'm missing?

TIA for the help!:smokin:

Edit: I just saw the link to DPHarms above.....

They have a Ewbanks receiver that is already predrilled and folded for $50.....are these any good or should I stay with the unbent recievers?

Ewbanks recievers require some rimming on the little tabs inside the mag well. I have done 4 on those and they work REALY well.

also look at http://www.tapco.com/product_information.asp?number=ZAK06160B&back=yes&dept=214&last=214
http://www.tapco.com/item_pics/lg/ZAK06160B_lg.jpg
$200 includes romanian kit, colapsable stock, fore end, grip, and fire control group.

morpheus

12-29-2005, 08:29 PM

usmcdoc14

12-30-2005, 03:15 PM

hey Doc, I just got an M-4 stock and am going to make a piece out of 1" stock like Mac made you. My stock has this piece that I assume is an indexing ring (the threaded portion has a slot in it that a tab in the ring rides in) ... it doesn't look like your stock was like that. Is that where you drilled that hole for the small allen screw in one pic ?

a pic like the stock I got:
http://image.sportsmansguide.com/dimage/86578_ts.JPG?cell=200,200&cvt=jpeg

my stock has a locking ring also. its just larger. and yup that "tab" area is where i drilled it to lock.
you can buy it here
http://www.aceltdusa.com/images04/AR15/M4LG_ambi_292w.jpg
http://www.aceltdusa.com/ar15.htm

aloharover

01-22-2006, 08:14 PM

aloharover, did you ever complete a build on one of your home bent receivers ?

Funny you should ask
A 2mo an a 16mo don't leave me much time.

Complete build...no.

I did finally get some free time today and got the jig dialed in.
1st one I used 3/16" for the side plates by mistake. So the receiver was 1/8th too narrow.

So I got some 1/4" and remade the sides.
#2 bend was too wide...:confused: somehow .25+.25+.75=1.3"
So I had to spend some time with some wet/dry and oil and worked on the side plates.

Finally got the width correct and I measured it before bending a flat.

#3 came out perfect.
I got the trigger guard attached.
Ft trunnion located, mags lock up tight no wobble.
Located the holes, drilled the receiver, front trunnion is screwed in.
Rr trunion located and screwed into place.

Now I need to finish up the barrel & gas block mods I am working on and get all of that put back together.
Then head to the range and test fire.
If everything works ok, disassemble, sandblast, park, and GunCote.

Pete

usmcdoc14

01-25-2006, 07:06 PM

the wood on the stocks are laminate right? if i stain them, and re attach them, can i say they i built them myself? or is there some kind of number on the compliance parts?
is there a depth to drill the rivits in the chamber? has any one measured the holes?
thanks
dale

no they are still the same stocks, nice try :flipoff2: but if you cut off the pistol grip on a Romanian lower then yes you could :D

HOW TO MEASURE THE DEPTH TO DRILL THE FRONT RIVITS !!!!

1) you need a pair of calipers or a depth micrometer to be "accurate" you can eye fuck it and still be fine.

look at the front of the front trunnion right where the barrel sticks out.
see the trunnion? see the barrel?
That is the the max depth you can drill before hitting the barrel because neither the barrel or trunnion taper :flipoff2: easy as fuck huh?
Just take a drill, put the point of the drill on the barrel, slide a stopcollar till it hits the trunnion and thats it.

ya need a picture ? :p

usmcdoc14

01-25-2006, 07:09 PM

oh and as for "accedentaly" drilling into the barrel

big fucking deal :laughing: look how deep the cross pin slot is drilled into the barrel and that is factory :D

aloharover

01-29-2006, 02:46 PM

Was able to get some more time in the garage this morning. Here is some more of my progress.

The die parts

aloharover

01-29-2006, 02:49 PM

Lining up the retaining plate and flat with a couple 1/8 punches

aloharover

01-29-2006, 02:49 PM

everything bolted down tight

aloharover

01-29-2006, 02:51 PM

Starting the bend

aloharover

01-29-2006, 02:52 PM

Little heat and 8oz ball pean to de-stress the corners

aloharover

01-29-2006, 02:53 PM

Bending the top rails

aloharover

01-29-2006, 02:54 PM

A pair of bent flats (flats I made my self :D )

aloharover

01-29-2006, 02:55 PM

The FAK-47 is starting to really come together:smokin:

morpheus

01-29-2006, 03:10 PM

nice work man! You making your own rails too?

you going to heat treat them?

aloharover

01-29-2006, 03:14 PM

nice work man! You making your own rails too?

you going to heat treat them?

Thanks

Yes, probably from some 1x1x1/8 angle

Yes

Bill4rest

01-29-2006, 06:40 PM

The FAK-47 is starting to really come together:smokin:

Aloha, were did you get that flash hider??

animator

01-29-2006, 07:09 PM

Aloha, were did you get that flash hider??

looks like from a FAL. Try tapco. Looks like the $.99 break :D

I'm going to use a shortened STG58 break on my AK.

4runner

01-29-2006, 07:18 PM

Aloha, were did you get that flash hider??
yep, brit FAL...slides on, held on by a little wheel pinned to the bbl...LOL

hope he threaded it or pinned it on...I have watched them fly downrange with the bullet...:shaking:

aloharover

01-29-2006, 08:08 PM

looks like from a FAL. Try tapco. Looks like the $.99 break :D

Yes, Tapco.
FAL parts.
Brake, gas block, gas regulator, and gas block plug. Most of this stuff is a buck or two from Tapco so I ordered a bunch of parts.
Thats why I call it the FAK-47 :D
Barrel is cut down. FAL gas block actually is a press fit over the brake and then the brake is a press fit onto the barrel. It will get drilled and pinned.
Inside of the gas block gets reemed for the piston, stock is threaded for the FAL gas tube. Regulator is going to be functional. Barrel is 16.5". With the folding stock its going to make a great little truck carbine.

My next build is going to use a FAL barrel, piston, and gas tube. 7.62 nato AK :D

Pete

aloharover

02-08-2006, 11:45 AM

Well I started my build.... I'm still unpaking from the move so I dont have my work bench up:( and two things I can say right away..................

I hate rivets and holy fawlk that metal is hard!!!!

:laughing:

All I can say is if you don't have a variable speed dremel yet get one.
I use a fiber disc to cut off the heads of the rivets, then pry the receiver off the trunion. Makes it easy to determin the exact size of the rivit and its center prior to drilling.

Use the fiber wheels and smaller cutting wheels to do all the openings and trim the rails.

Carbide cutter for general shaping, finish with sanding drums, or files.

They make an attachment for the Dremel so you can use a drill bit thingy for cutting sheetrock and stuff, kinda like a Rotozip.
That attachment actually makes a perfect depth gauge when used with the cut off wheel for triming the rails. Makes a perfect straight cut.

Polishing wheels and bonnets to clean up feed ramps and stuff (ok mostly for the 1911s)

usmcdoc14

02-08-2006, 12:05 PM

Well I started my build.... I'm still unpaking from the move so I dont have my work bench up:( and two things I can say right away..................

I hate rivets and holy fawlk that metal is hard!!!!

similar style as aloharover:

cut off rivet heads with 4.5" grinder not giving a fuck if I chew up the receiver leftovers a little

pry off receiver stubs

sand rivet stumps smooth to the trunnion with the dremel sanding disks

center punch the rivets

drill a guide hole in the rivet using a small bit

drill out rivet to a few sizes smaller than what i will be tapping/riveting it to

remove rivet bits or grind them out the rest of the way with THE GOD OF ALL DREMEL BITS !!!
the tungsten carbide cutter !!
(large image so you may worship it)
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B00004UDJJ.01.LZZZZZZZ.jpg

The rear trunnion rivets I keep drilling larger till they "get stuck" on the drill bit and then pull them out using the bit.

aloharover

02-08-2006, 01:57 PM

HAHA I burned up one a couple of years ago so I bought another one for this build:)

I've seen the sheet rock thingy. But I bought an already made reciever for my 1st build. My 2nd parts kit I got is way worse than my 1st, so I'll make the reciever for that and have it be a beater rifle:D

The idea is from Sangrun's thread over at gunco
http://www.gunco.net/forums/showthread.php?t=18008
BTW the link is a pretty nice write up with lots of photos.

aloharover

02-09-2006, 01:58 PM

OK, here is the current state of the FAK-47.
Passes the functions check.
16.5" bbl but thing still almost feels like a pistol. I really like the balance.
Going to make the perfect truck carbine. Thinking about saving up for an Eotech site.

Only a few items left on the to-do:

1- drill and pin the front gas block
2- make and install the cross support
3- drill holes for rear trunion.
4- heat FCG holes and rails.
5- order an ace skeleton side folder (will use old wood until it arrives)
6- finish the gas tube heat shield/rail mount (that can wait)

I might just be able to test fire it this week end. :D

Then can disassemble, blast, and paint.

ps. I only photochopped the background so as to not further offend Doc. :flipoff2: