OK fellows, here are the pics of the truck we're gonna start chopping up.

Break out the MS Paint, or whatever and let's see what we can come up with.

Our design specs are minimal weight, minimal weight and minimal weight. We're planning on replacing what little glass that will remain with Lexan. The roll cage is intended to stay, but will certainly need to be reworked to support a hood. Areas where we need input are capping the body panels that will remain, rear door/tailgate profile, do we keep the entire front doors, or cut them down, or tube doors?

While this truck does live in Indiana where the weather changes quickly and gets pretty nasty at times, the owner wants to chop it :flipoff2:.

Flame away!

PT

You know I love you buddy, but if weight savings is your biggest goal, this project is doomed. Even if you remove everything, your still going to hit 4,300. It's best to go ground up. Just my .02

Was that the truck you origionally set up when you got into 'dancing'? :flipoff2:

It seems like someone went to alot of work with the roll cage, only to be killed by the Hi-Lift inside secured by zip ties.

-Jeff

Yes, his truck is a mess. I cleaned it up the last time it was in the shop:flipoff2:

OK, I gotta state I built the suspension and helped with the design and engineering for the fuel system. I was not involved with the roll cage fabrication, nor am I responsible for the payload.

It's not my truck. Right now, my truck is pretty lean. A little ragged from neglect, but it'll get better some day.

PT

You need to wear a helmet to keep from getting killed by flying crap in that truck. It's fawkin' mess in there. And does that guy own stock in Zip Tie? You can shave 100lbs by cutting the tag-ends on them.

OK, let's quit bashing the truck and start chopping!

I know we have some folks here who can run photoshop, etc.

Our goal was to build this with some consensus on how best to do it. Let's collaborate!

PT

I'm not too good with photochop. Let me give it a try....










































http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/smithyjnr/IMG_6899_5_1.jpg

:flipoff2:

I guess I would need more info. Street legal? Full buggy with a few rover panels for style (pikes peak, safari gard)?

My vote is to leave it, tidy the little thing and let the rocks/trails do the body mods. There is still alot of use in that body.

-Jeff

I guess I would need more info. Street legal? Full buggy with a few rover panels for style (pikes peak, safari gard)?

My vote is to leave it, tidy the little thing and let the rocks/trails do the body mods. There is still alot of use in that body.

-Jeff

Street legal only to get to the trail head. We have two trailers!

As for body, I think we'd like to keep the sheetmetal from the belt line down. No need to tube anything more than to support the top. Although, tubing A La Rockware or Pike's Peak would be a great way to save weight.

I'd chop off right after the A pillar, keeping the windscreen (street legal)...so all that will remain is the floor, A pillar, hood, firwall and windscreen...everything else (including sheetmetal/doors) goes...including the cage.

Then you can build an exo that somewhat looks like mine from the front (you can clip it at the radiator for more tire clearance & hence a lower stance), but then gets more compact with tube doors after the A pillar as you don't have doors/roof/back cab...cut the fram after the rear link frame mounts, truggy the back with the winch right above the rear LT230 output, a battery on the side, and the fuel system above all that...empy bucket behind all that for gear (secured correctly :shaking:) & airshock/coil over mounts.

Over and above a buggy, you'd be running a hood, screen, firewall, dash, and floors...not much extra weight...

Then again, you may want to go with the Pikes Peak option and sell the whole cabin/cage/bumper combo to someone in need...

No photoshop now, going drinking :flipoff2:

Leave it alone, clean it up and get rid of all the recovery shrapnel laying around in it.

Sell to some high-school kid and start over. Sometimes trying to re-build a truck like that is more of an excercize in picking compromises than really getting what you want.

I could make you something in Photoshop, but it'd probably end up looking something like a Poison Spyder Custom's tube buggy.

5min is all i could spend on this. just an idea of what could be done. obviously its very rough hahahh :flipoff2:
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd61/desertrover83/Picture3-1.png

Leave it alone, clean it up and get rid of all the recovery shrapnel laying around in it.

Sell to some high-school kid and start over. Sometimes trying to re-build a truck like that is more of an excercize in picking compromises than really getting what you want.

x2. My post got lost in the pictures, but like I said. If a light rig is the end goal, you'll never get there from here. But good luck anyway!

who the hell thought yellow paint and foam was a good idea...the inside of that thing looks like a ronald mcdonald play gym, only dirtier and more disgusting.

also, if you go with lexan, make sure you get the MR10. it has a scratch resistant coating on it.

I am sucky :barf: at the Photo rig chopping.

But, fuck it here ya go.

Most of the weight in these two has been cut away, the rear door, side glass, most of the roof, rear frame, etc, I say pinch the rear and boatside this turd and really make it go. I guess with the boat sides most of the weight has been trasferred to the bottom.....:flipoff2:


oh and the first one just levitates over the axles, anti gravity suspension, Back to the Future hoverboard technology.

Mandatory stingers and Uber cool red coilovers

It definately needs toob bumpers, ditch those Plow King (:homer:) bumpers and shed 1,000 Lbs.

This is what I was thinking about doing for the rear profile.

Yes, further proof that I am NOT an artist, but an engineer/scientist! :flipoff2:

What had in mind to do with my truck, until SWMBO put the Kibosh on it:grinpimp:

5min is all i could spend on this. just an idea of what could be done. obviously its very rough hahahh :flipoff2:

I like it as well as what you did with your truck.

Not the cleanest chop, but how's this for an idea? This Disco belongs to Frank Avent

PT, you need to make THE decision first. Is what results going to look like a Disco ?

If yes, I suggest a 'pickup conversion' - with a bulhead right where the roof starts it angle upwards. Mount a small deck, ala Ozified Toyota Hilux, inside the wheels, make the front fenders go away with some tube work, mosterfy the suspension and call it good.

If it DOESN'T need to look like a Disco, lose the entire body, get the tube bender and Tig machine out and build your own cage like the Rockware guys (or get your client to buy one of theirs). Add sheet metal to meet environmental concerns.

Start with a new truck.

PT, you need to make THE decision first. Is what results going to look like a Disco ?



The truck is AFIRover's. I believe he has something of an idea of what HE wants it to look like. We both decided that it would be an interesting experiment to throw pics up and see what the consensus of the folks here was and go from there.

To be honest, we are both way overeducated engineers who can overthink anything. By coming here and asking for input, we were hoping for several things. First off, to not get flamed for what we end up with (I'm confident in our fab abilities, he can weld better than I can, but I like to think I'm a hell of a lot better machinist than he is!), to do it right the first time and come up with something truly unique and maybe even state of the art. Again, the goal is to have a lighter weight, open-top (but heated) truggy that can be wheeled in Moab and the UP as comfortably. We both have Series trucks so we don't need to pursue that other than as a design contributor.

As far as the open top is concerned, we have a pretty much blank sheet there as well. AFI has found a source for having the "Canvas" work done that shows incredible promise (think high-tech laser plasma vulcanizing, windows that one can actually see through, etc).

The suspension setup is pretty much all RTE right now, but I have some ideas for that as well. Nothing to exotic, just trying for more and balanced articulation-and lighter. The engine is pretty much finished, but might see some new internals as we have some questions as to the condition of the bottom end.

Axles are and have been a very weak link and there are some plans in store for that, I just need to convince a certain someone to bite the bullet and pay for the shipping. It pains me to pay more for shipping than the hardware being shipped! I also need to make sure that another certain someone doesn't find out that I swapped some work on this truck for a rear axle assembly (shh, what Shopgrrl doesn't know won't hurt me :flipoff2:).

Again, the goal is to have a lighter weight, open-top (but heated) truggy that can be wheeled in Moab and the UP as comfortably. We both have Series trucks so we don't need to pursue that other than as a design contributor.

As far as the open top is concerned, we have a pretty much blank sheet there as well. AFI has found a source for having the "Canvas" work done that shows incredible promise (think high-tech laser plasma vulcanizing, windows that one can actually see through, etc).

Then, I would lose all the original body above the floor pan behind the A pillars. Tube up a replacement with 2 removable "doors", craft a little inner panel for around the rear wheels/axle and use the high tech canvas source for a top, side curtains, door tops and a rear deck flap. Sort of a Darkstar look in a 2 door (keeping the rear seat is going to look weird, no matter how you do it - I understand Darkstar's need to have it but I don't like the cluttered look and weird floor pan step of the original body).

No need for a back seat in this truck!

To be honest, we are both way overeducated engineers who can overthink anything.

Thanks for the new sig line!

Clean the truck up, sell it to some high school kid for 10K, and start over. There have been how many buildup threads on here that would have been way easier if they just started from scratch?

pickup...something AEV Brute style...if i didn't have a family, i would have chopped the hell out of mine. make the bed seperate though, bulkhead behind the seats. make the rear bulkhead accept the rear door glass too. lots and lots of sheetmetal work....chop the rear door down, drop the top hinge and have a side hinged tailgate...not exactly convenient, but cool.

*also include the alpine windows in the cab somewhere.

pickup...something AEV Brute style...if i didn't have a family, i would have chopped the hell out of mine. make the bed seperate though, bulkhead behind the seats. make the rear bulkhead accept the rear door glass too. lots and lots of sheetmetal work....chop the rear door down, drop the top hinge and have a side hinged tailgate...not exactly convenient, but cool.

*also include the alpine windows in the cab somewhere.

Other than the tailgate, looks like this?..n prettier offcourse :D

http://www.dubai4x4.com/albums/albuo98/Rear_passenger_third.sized.jpg

If the armageddon-like snows don't come, Afi will be coming to Busco tomorrow and we are going to spend some time trying to visualize what we're gonna do. Our last conversation was heading toward a Series-esque pick-up style fiberglas cab. Would like to make it removable but the cage may make that difficult, or require completely reworking the cage to allow for a removable top.

Either way we go, a bulkhead at the step of the loadspace is pretty much guaranteed as the fuel cell will then be completely isolated from the passenger compartment, something I'd really like to see for obvious reasons. Tailgate is still up in the air, I'd like to see something Dakar-esque (no tailgate, sides tapered in, etc) but it's up to Afi to decide what he wants. When I build mine, I can do what "I" want :flipoff2:

Subscribed. :flipoff2:

[QUOTE=PTSchram;7615447]Our last conversation was heading toward a Series-esque pick-up style fiberglas cab. Would like to make it removable but the cage may make that difficult, or require completely reworking the cage to allow for a removable top.QUOTE]

What if you make the cage/exo a frame for your roof, rear, & doors removable, so that you can have a "topless" truck at will (4 bolts each with some silicone and you'll be good to go for winter...)

in thanks for the chance:flipoff2:







also shipping to 85743?

Another vote for leaving it as is.

The weight is all in the frame, floor and bulkhead. Sure glass weighs a little but in the grand sceme of things not that much. Tube doors might net you a couple of hundred, but man, what a trade off.

I say order a Rockware "Hendrix type" formula chassis and plop it on the rolling frame. In the end you'll shave the weight, and might reach your target weight of???

--D

Take this, ditch the back seat, and cut the chassis right at the rear axle line...

It will still be 4K LBS

I thought long and hard about leaving out the back seat at this point. would have much better departure angle, a bit less weight, and a lot less work. In the end I decided that I needed the back seat.

Wassup Alex ? Oh darkstar's rig just plain work's , has comfortable ass seats and is pimp :grinpimp:

Seems what your want is D90 truck cab with an exo and an axle upgrade! :flipoff2:

Sell the Disco, it will never become what you want it to be.

x2

Seems what your want is D90 truck cab with an exo and an axle upgrade! :flipoff2:

3,950 LB loaded for trail with a full tank of gas. :flipoff2:

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd299/buckon35s/P1010990.jpg

PT stated "minimal weight", not "light weight". minimal is a relative term. the only thing that makes a land rover much heavier than other rigs is the water logged padding, and the frame. this could be a "light" project if you ditched the body and frame, but then would it really be a rover?...or street legal?...sure, a toyota pickup is lighter, but by the time they are both built you're probably talking 1000 lbs. my scout with no windows, no doors, no front bumper, no front fenders and no hood still weighs like 3800. it's due partly to the boat anchor 232, but also the heavy fully boxed factory frame. i think keeping the project under 5000 would be good. based on what people have posted, a chopped D90 doesn't weigh any less than a chopped disco.
all the people suggesting he sell it...what do you suggests he replaces it with that is roughly the same cost?

maybe get a toyota pickup and replace the entire drivetrain with a rover drivetrain. be pretty light and probably go like hell....:flipoff2:

To put it lightly, there has been much discussion as to which route to go.

My tubing bender should be operational soon and that might open up more options.

Personally, I've been giving the tube setup posted in another thread a lot of thought.

The page is still blank...

I'm working my way through the backlog and this project is moving up in priority!

To put it lightly, there has been much discussion as to which route to go.

My tubing bender should be operational soon and that might open up more options.

Personally, I've been giving the tube setup posted in another thread a lot of thought.

The page is still blank...

I'm working my way through the backlog and this project is moving up in priority!

I think Doug's X chassis is the way to go. You retain the base vehicle that can be sold, and you just build out of parts. The LR drivetrain would rock in a lightweight chassis because you can finally start to reap the rewards of the Al. block, T case, etc. The chassis is straight. You don't have to waste 100 ft of DOM becoming accustomed with working with tubing.

Rock crawling is getting faster. Trucks are evolving from slow moving dinosaurs to rock racing bypass shock coilover dune racers. If I were building something from the ground up, I would be thinking light, low, wide, fast, with 50/50 up/downtravel. With a lot less weight, maybe you could get away with a lighter set of axles, a 9 inch ford rear and a Yota front end?

I know of a formula toy chassis (one of the origional prototypes as I recall) that was mated with a RRC. It turned out very nice. Unfortunately, no pics.

-Jeff

based on what people have posted, a chopped D90 doesn't weigh any less than a chopped disco.


:lmao::lmao: What are you smoking? I have a practically full body, 9/60's, 40's, and heavy links, with a Diesel! All under 4k. I even have too much cage that needs to get chopped.

But to be fair, my frame is made out of Adamanthium. Argue with me about heat treat. :flipoff2:

Oh, and it sits 4 comfortably.

Seems the concensus is clear - if weight is the core variable and winter comforts / street legality aren't, then a "hendrix" type chassis is key...whether the initial truck is re-used, or sold and you start fresh...

For winter comforts, how about a waterproof overall with heated clothing (like the ones they use for Motorcycles...)

Alex (Darkstar) & Rockrover...did you weigh your rigs? if so, what do the numbers say...I'm eager to weigh mine in teh summer...expecting 4,500-5,000 depending on gear/me being inside...

What are you smoking? I have a practically full body, 9/60's, 40's, and heavy links, with a Diesel! All under 4k. I even have too much cage that needs to get chopped.

3,950 LB loaded for trail with a full tank of gas. :flipoff2:


you have far from a full body when compared to an uncut disco. looking at the pic darkstar posted of the chopped disco which he says is 4k i really don't see the d90 weighing that much less...where exactly on the d90 do you claim the weight difference is?

add 4 doors with glass, a huge rear door with a huge window, and two sunroofs to yours....i agree that a disco with power everything isn't the ideal thing to start with, but as far as cost vs. performance, you'd have a hard time beating it. a d90 is basically the same thing a little less wheel base, two less doors...and way more "i bet you don't have one of these" bling...:flipoff2:

FWIW, the 'Serious One' comes in at 4500lbs.

http://www.tawayama.com/gear/randompics/s1onpritchett.jpg

http://www.tawayama.com/gear/randompics/SPD1.jpg

http://www.tawayama.com/gear/seriousone/three-quarter-view-front-sw.jpg

http://www.tawayama.com/gear/seriousone/otr2.jpg

http://www.tawayama.com/gear/seriousone/seriousoneonside.JPG

wow, never thought the SO would weigh THAT much...but tell you what, its still the sweetest Series in the world...

Alex (Darkstar) & Rockrover...did you weigh your rigs? if so, what do the numbers say...I'm eager to weigh mine in teh summer...expecting 4,500-5,000 depending on gear/me being inside...

Mine is approx. 4,800 ready to wheel. I can probably cut it down a bit by going through the toolbox and getting rid of some crap, getting rid of the highlift (which I never use), having a half a tank of gas instead of the full 14 gallons (rarely needed), and losing a few pounds myself :flipoff2:

wow, never thought the SO would weigh THAT much...but tell you what, its still the sweetest Series in the world...

Yeah, TTYTT I was pretty surprized also. The frame has been plated top and bottom front to back with strap steel (probably about 1/8-1/4 inch thick...), as has the rear crossmember and the front bumper is pretty beefy too. Cage is stout, but not overly complex. I don't have a hi-lift either, and I try to go out light to keep the weight down.

I think it's easy to get it to 4000 without really thinking about it. It's much harder to keep the weight around 3000.

Here's the sweet cover shot Rover Porn from when she was still a 'virgin'. :laughing:

http://www.tawayama.com/gear/seriousone/lw0204.jpg

...and losing a few pounds myself :flipoff2:

Definitely agree there...

Hi-lift, pull pal & waffle boards are items I hate to have on board (easily a couple of hundred lbs), but when you are in desperation and need either you'll kick yourself for not having the right item...

Alex (Darkstar) & Rockrover...did you weigh your rigs? if so, what do the numbers say...I'm eager to weigh mine in teh summer...expecting 4,500-5,000 depending on gear/me being inside...

My RockRover (D90) was 4200 with NOTHING in it (about 5gals fuel). Minimal cage, cut rear tub. Everything weight wise was attributed to the full width 60/70 combo, 2.5" coil-overs and 2" x 5/8" lower links, and of course 42" TSL's on steel TR beal-locks. Heck I had/have 1800lbs in tires/wheels and axles alone! :eek:

The new rig comes in at 3620 with 15gals in the tank, and the exact same drive-train as before right down to the links and drive shafts. Therefore, one could conclude with reasonable certainty, that the 90 bulk-head and frame are heavy chunks...About 600lbs of chunkyness. Pretty close to what I estimated. With this rig I was hoping for 3200 but o'well. Too much triangulation I guess. :flipoff2:

I've come to learn that (IMO) many underestimate what their rigs actually weigh. Either they are just plain BS'ing and/or they never actually had their rig on a calibrated scale.

I DO know however that the 600lbs less has made a HUGE difference in how the rig performs. Yea, the balance is much better now, I'm 10" narrower, 4" less in WB, and there is little un-sprung weight, but MAN what a difference! Is the increase due to weight or design? Hmmmmmm.

I feel the true and only way to keep a rig in the sub 3k range is to run 9" hybrids. You simply cannot have a safe 4 seater, full width 60's, 40"+ meats and fly weight.

I've come to learn that (IMO) many underestimate what their rigs actually weigh. Either they are just plain BS'ing and/or they never actually had their rig on a calibrated scale.


I'm with you. I know for a fact that my Disco weighed 5400 lbs when I started, per the scale at the feedlot in Berne. I also know that on the trailer, it weighs about 7200 lbs, per the State of Nebraska DOT:D

I don't think a Defender bulkhead weighs all that much and probably weighs quite a bit less than a Disco or RRC bulkhead. I know that with another person, I can lift a Defender bulkhead and load it into a truck. Don't know if I could do that with a RRC or Disco bulkhead (that windscreen frame looks heavy!).

If I get a chance, I'll throw a plate on the Zebra truck and run it over to the farm supply and see what it weighs today.

Sir Kelvin was right, we can't know 'til we measure!

PT

Bah - weight is over rated.

My Mog weighs 9200 lbs and stock, will out wheel anything still on a Rover frame.















(joke - sort of)

you have far from a full body when compared to an uncut disco. looking at the pic darkstar posted of the chopped disco which he says is 4k i really don't see the d90 weighing that much less...where exactly on the d90 do you claim the weight difference is?

add 4 doors with glass, a huge rear door with a huge window, and two sunroofs to yours....i agree that a disco with power everything isn't the ideal thing to start with, but as far as cost vs. performance, you'd have a hard time beating it. a d90 is basically the same thing a little less wheel base, two less doors...and way more "i bet you don't have one of these" bling...:flipoff2:

You don't seem to undertand things. And I am far to lazy to explain them to you.

You don't seem to undertand things. And I am far to lazy to explain them to you.

Hilareous!

You don't seem to undertand things. And I am far to lazy to explain them to you.

i'll pretend i care...

Hilareous!

it's spelled hilarious...

it's spelled hilarious...

Thanks - will sleep better at night...(AFAIK, the British spell it with an "e")

I'm with you. I know for a fact that my Disco weighed 5400 lbs when I started, per the scale at the feedlot in Berne. I also know that on the trailer, it weighs about 7200 lbs, per the State of Nebraska DOT:D

PT

I'm assuming that that number includes the weight of the trailer!

I pulled the bulk-head off my 90 by myself. It's not that it's a huge amount of weight, but compared to the rest of the body parts, you do find yourself grunting a time or two.

Funny story is that me and a friend (and we are not small guy's) could not pick up my 90's frame and load it in a pick-up bed! At first we both thought we were just being pansies, but on the third attempt we both caved, admitted our lack of manliness, both got on one end and slid it into the truck.

My guess was 500lbs+

--D

Thanks - will sleep better at night...(AFAIK, the British spell it with an "e")

i'll remember that next time i'm on a British forum...i suppose it could be acceptable here since we're talking about British vehicles.

i'll remember that next time i'm on a British forum...i suppose it could be acceptable here since we're talking about British vehicles.

Appreciate your leniency :flipoff2:

As this is a thread about AFIRover's truck, spelling correctly is optional!

Extra points for posting in Afrikaanszulujapahoosierese!

ganja

Mine is 3200...

KGs...

:flipoff2:

I load and turn D110 frames all the time by hand. D90 are cake compared.

But I am Pendy


You should try them after they are heavy with galvanizing.


A loaded bulkhead is very cumbersome. 4 times the wieght bare.

I'm assuming that that number includes the weight of the trailer!

I pulled the bulk-head off my 90 by myself. It's not that it's a huge amount of weight, but compared to the rest of the body parts, you do find yourself grunting a time or two.

Funny story is that me and a friend (and we are not small guy's) could not pick up my 90's frame and load it in a pick-up bed! At first we both thought we were just being pansies, but on the third attempt we both caved, admitted our lack of manliness, both got on one end and slid it into the truck.

My guess was 500lbs+

--D

I load and turn D110 frames all the time by hand. D90 are cake compared.

But I am Pendy


You should try them after they are heavy with galvanizing.


A loaded bulkhead is very cumbersome. 4 times the weight bare.

I've moved my 100" frame around quite a bit by myself (I am not Pendy), so its not too hard, but I think its actually easier to do it by myself, than to have someone pick up the other end and have the whole thing off the ground. something about fulcrums, levers and....hell I dunno, physics! Doug, isn't that your territory?

-Jeff

I've moved my 100" frame around quite a bit by myself (I am not Pendy), so its not too hard, but I think its actually easier to do it by myself, than to have someone pick up the other end and have the whole thing off the ground. something about fulcrums, levers and....hell I dunno, physics! Doug, isn't that your territory?

-Jeff

I keep axles beneath them and use the lawn mower to move them. It's good entertainment for the neighbors to watch AFI and I unload trucks/frames/other junk.

I am PT and am old and feeble (minded?)! I'm gonna do what I can to make such tasks easy!

Late to the party I know,But really,since Gary has a tow rig now there's no reason to leave anything breakable or bendable on it,I'd say just hood and grill,enough to see It's a Rover and Tube Away at it.There are so many trees to get into around here sheet metal just gets nasty looking quick!

BTW,Might need to send you a PM tomorrow,depends on how cooked the D1 is that was towed in today.

BTW,Might need to send you a PM tomorrow,depends on how cooked the D1 is that was towed in today.

260-804-0458

I am afi and I am fat and lazy and I have winch's to move junk or my power stroker .....:flipoff2:
doug :give me a call I like spare parts for cooked rigs ...

I load and turn D110 frames all the time by hand. D90 are cake compared.

But I am Pendy


You should try them after they are heavy with galvanizing.


A loaded bulkhead is very cumbersome. 4 times the wieght bare.


It's your low COG.

I am afi and I am fat and lazy and I have winch's to move junk or my power stroker .....:flipoff2:
doug :give me a call I like spare parts for cooked rigs ...


The frame got tossed a year ago. Couldn't find a taker initially, and when push came to shove (Bill wanted it out of his yard), I let the scrap guy's haul it off.

Blasphemy I know....

Levers, fulcrums, huh?

I deal in....Other things.

--D

Levers, fulcrums, huh?

I deal in....Other things.

--D

Didn't it make national news last time you lost your laptop?

-Jeff

The frame got tossed a year ago. Couldn't find a taker initially, and when push came to shove (Bill wanted it out of his yard), I let the scrap guy's haul it off.

Blasphemy I know....

Levers, fulcrums, huh?

I deal in....Other things.

--D


Whats that area 51 anti grav devices?

If you had thrown in the VIN plate I would have cleaned your mess up at Bill's. It's a dirty job.-----

we made some changes this weekend .........
pt took pics so you all know what that means
we cant see jack:flipoff2:

we are all waiting for the pics pt
post up

AFI, hope you/PT had a steady hand :flipoff2:

AFI, hope you/PT had a steady hand :flipoff2:

I'm still sick! Had I been more intimately involved, the upper surfaces would have looked like we'd used pinking shears!

If AFI wants better pics, he should take them himself:flipoff2:
until then he's at my mercy! So are the rest of you.

Back to the topic at hand, still much work to be done to be "finished", but now that we are past the point of no return, there is an incentive :flipoff2:.

EXCELLENT - PT, get better!

exactly what on that truck weighs so damn much? My fullsize 02 dodge ram is 4500lbs from factory how does that weight the same. just looked back at the photos... why doesnt he take off his interior door panels and shit like that. Thats all extra weight... and what is the wood grain going to do for you offroad, make him a flat dash and shed some lbs. Also carpet, headliner. All that stuff is just dead weight. Also if he were to cut the ends of all those damn zip ties he might save a couple pounds, why ruin a perfectly nice cage by mounting things to it with zip ties. not even really safe.

ohh btw tell your customer to hide his damn wires it looks horrible and would be a bitch if they snagged on something on the trail.

ohh btw tell your customer to hide his damn wires it looks horrible and would be a bitch if they snagged on something on the trail.

Wait til they finish...they just chopped it...

Wait til they finish...they just chopped it...

LOL! We have to wait for the spring thaw for the axles!

As for the weight, a stock discovery weighs somewhere around 5200-5500 pounds. Door panels, headliner, carpet have all been removed, along with all the glass except for windscreen and front doors. Until I cut the cage back (which might just be today, I'm feeling pretty good this morning) there isn't much more low hanging fruit to be pared. At this point, we're down to the heater box, glove box and instrument panel as far as superfluous weight is concerned.

The big question now is... Bobtail or not? We could probably lose another 100-150 pounds in frame rail weight and move the winch further toward the front of the truck.

...The big question now is... Bobtail or not? ...

And the answer is....Of course! If you're not going to have a back seat there is no reason what so ever to leave the back end so long. Cut the frame and body right above the rear axle. You'll save a more then the 150 LBs you are estimating. Trust me, I speak from experience here. That chunk of steel is damn heavy.

Nice guys ! Just like I imagined it. Are you going for a bulkhead behind the front seats or will it stay open ?

BOBTAIL !!! ....and get rid of those damn rear doors.

Nice guys ! Just like I imagined it. Are you going for a bulkhead behind the front seats or will it stay open ?


Thank you! There will be some form of a "Bulkhead", just not sure what form it will take at this point. I'm kind of a freak about keeping some form of temp control, regardless of what the truck is!

are you thinking about closing in the rear? it would be cool to adapt the bottom half of the rear door with hinges on the bottom for a real tail gate.

You'll save a more then the 150 LBs you are estimating. Trust me, I speak from experience here. That chunk of steel is damn heavy.

Alex

as you may recall I came over right after yours hit the floor...I couldent believe what that thing weighed:shaking:

thom

so alex when can we expect you to show up god knows we need more suppervision ........

ps please bring your bender over

so alex when can we expect you to show up god knows we need more suppervision ........

ps please bring your bender over

What? This wasn't enough supervision?

I'll send the dog over right away.

I'll send the dog over right away.

That'll help:flipoff2:

Looks sweet PT, I second the bobtailing. If you need any sheetmetal sheared, formed etc and have the material. I've got the equipment at work.

exactly what on that truck weighs so damn much? My fullsize 02 dodge ram is 4500lbs from factory how does that weight the same.

ohh btw tell your customer to hide his damn wires it looks horrible and would be a bitch if they snagged on something on the trail.

That's funny right there..... There are 2 things you first question about Rovers:

#1) Exactly what on that truck weighs so damn much?

#2) Who the hell is Lucas and why does he make me completely rewire the truck?

That's funny right there..... There are 2 things you first question about Rovers:

#1) Exactly what on that truck weighs so damn much?

#2) Who the hell is Lucas and why does he make me completely rewire the truck?

He probably wonders why they leak oil as well!

(BTW-the wife finally says I can have a kilt when the weather changes-no, I'm not man enough to wear a kilt when it's 10'F!)